In the early morning, fog often rises over the dense web of tangled pines and swampland as you walk through 250 years of history at Moores Creek National Battlefield, about twenty miles north of Wilmington. It was here, on February 27, 1776, that the first major Patriot victory of the American Revolution took place. It happened not in New England, but on a small but critical bridge across a backwater creek in the Cape Fear region of southeastern North Carolina.
Historical accounts from pension records and archives note that the battle was over quickly—as few as three minutes and no more than thirty in total. It was a scene of chaos: heavy Loyalist casualties as they attempted to cross the bridge yelling “King George and Broadswords!” only to be met by the devastating bombardment of grapeshot from cannons and a relentless barrage of Patriot musket fire.
Sadly, despite its critical role on the road to independence in 1776, this site is often overlooked in history books and documentaries. However, as you dig into the fascinating layers of the months leading up to Moores Creek Bridge, the battle itself, and its aftermath, it quickly becomes apparent that this was a decisive victory that turned the tide of history. The win was so impactful that when Generals Clinton and Cornwallis arrived on the North Carolina coast near present-day Southport and the Brunswick Town State Historic Site, they ultimately decided to abandon North Carolina (though not before they burned and looted the Patriot stronghold at Brunswick Town—but that’s a story for another day). The British then attempted to invade Charleston but were repelled, thanks in part to Moultrie’s ingenuity with his “palmetto cannons.” Without the momentum from Moores Creek, the map of American history might look very different today.
Even more importantly, Moores Creek was a win you could “take to the bank.” While North Carolina’s Provincial Congress was leaning toward independence, they had to be cautious about the timing of their declaration. The victory at Moores Creek empowered leaders like Cornelius Harnett—often called the “Sam Adams of the South”—to write and approve the Halifax Resolves on April 12, 1776. This document was one of the most significant moves toward independence, even if it is sometimes left out of the national narrative. With the Halifax Resolves, North Carolina became the first colony to authorize a “yes” vote for independence for their Continental Congress delegates in Philadelphia: William Hooper, Joseph Hewes, and John Penn. The victory also bolstered the Continental Congress’s confidence that the war in the South could be won, effectively ousting the Royal Government and silencing Loyalist opposition until 1780.
To commemorate the 250th anniversary of the battle and honor southeastern North Carolina’s pivotal role in the Revolution, eight counties in the Cape Fear region banded together to host the inaugural NC First in Freedom Festival. The weeklong celebrations spanned the region—from Topsail Island to Historic Brunswick Town, through Fayetteville and Bladen County, and culminating in a grand “Huzzah!” in Pender County, the home of Moores Creek Bridge.
I was fortunate to spend the weekend of February 27 through March 1 on a Revolutionary ‘Route 1776’ time-traveling adventure. This inaugural festival commemorated the 250th anniversary with a Revolutionary Living History Weekend alongside other America 250 activities. The celebration even featured a special “Outlander + Moores Creek History” night with author Diana Gabaldon.
In this Route 1776 adventure, I’ll recap my weekend: from “time-traveling” Outlander-style fun to the 250th-anniversary reenactments, followed by modern-day fun at the coast and a Revolutionary War History Walk in Wilmington with renowned Cape Fear historian Christopher Fonvielle.
Journey through Time: Revolutionary Adventures in the Cape Fear
If you’ve been following my journey here and on Facebook over the past few months, you know we’ve been digging deep into the Revolutionary War history of the greater Wilmington area. While I already knew my family had Revolutionary ties to the South Carolina Lowcountry (through my ancestor Thomas Heyward Jr., a signer of the Declaration of Independence), I was shocked to learn how deep my Cape Fear roots run. I discovered I am a descendant of Roger Moore, who established Brunswick Town with his brother Maurice.
The Moores were right at the center of the activities leading up to and during the American Revolution. It was at Brunswick Town—later burned by the British after the Battle of Moores Creek Bridge—that the first armed resistance to the Stamp Act took place in 1765. In a display of defiance, men like Cornelius Harnett, John Ashe, and James Moore went so far as to temporarily hold Governor Tryon and his royal officials hostage at Brunswick Town in February 1766.
This is the kind of real-world drama that is more intense than anything you’ll find on HBO or Netflix. In fact, the history is so compelling that when Diana Gabaldon was writing Outlander, she chose to set a large portion of her story in this part of North Carolina, beginning in 1767—just after the Stamp Act crisis and amidst the rising tensions leading to the war.
Growing up in Raleigh, I visited Wilmington and the surrounding areas often. But with America 250 approaching, I felt called to do more than just enjoy the beach views; I wanted to dig into this vital history and my own connection to it—including my first cousin many generations back, Colonel James Moore. Though Colonel Moore was engaging a secondary force of Loyalists and was not present at the actual bridge during the battle, he was the mastermind behind the strategic planning that led to the victory, alongside heroes Colonels Richard Caswell and Alexander Lillington.
In November 2025, I began this journey into the Cape Fear region’s fascinating past: from the Stamp Act Crisis at Brunswick Town to a tour of Wilmington’s only Colonial home open to the public, the Burgwin-Wright House (1770). It was there that General Lord Cornwallis stayed and took his meals in April 1781. It was also in Wilmington where he made the fateful decision to abandon the Carolinas for Virginia—and ultimately, Yorktown.
As local historian Dr. Chris Fonvielle noted in his Wilmington True History Tour, two major epochs of the war began and ended in the Cape Fear: the victory at Moores Creek, which permanently forced the Royal Government out of North Carolina, and Cornwallis’s decision to retreat to Wilmington after his “pyrrhic victory” at Guilford Courthouse. In Wilmington, he realized the Carolinas were lost and headed north, where the road to independence was finally fully realized at Yorktown.
The more I uncover the drama of Cape Fear’s past, the more passionate I become about sharing these layers of history. That is what made the NC First in Freedom weekend so special: seeing thousands of people of all ages and backgrounds driving the rural backroads of Pender County to learn about the pivotal history that happened right here 250 years ago.
Route 1776 – Passport to History: While the 2026 First in Freedom Festival may be over, you can still follow the America 250 NC First in Freedom Trail with their official passport guide. Each stop on the passport highlights a site tied to the history of North Carolina across eight southeastern NC counties: Bladen, Brunswick, Columbus, Duplin, New Hanover, Onslow, Pender, and Sampson. For more information about the NC First in Freedom Passport – click here.
February 27th: Crossing through the Standing Stones
I arrived in Wilmington around 1 p.m. on Friday. The rain was “stoatin’” hard—a Scots term for when it rains so heavily that the drops bounce off the ground. We had originally planned to stop by Moores Creek for the official 250th anniversary on Friday, but the weather forced the cancellation of some artillery demonstrations. Luckily, the clouds cleared completely for Saturday’s reenactment.
Since my Revolutionary weekend included stops in Pender County (Moores Creek and Penderlea) as well as New Hanover County (Wilmington and Wrightsville), I opted to check into the Aloft Hotel. The hotel is partially housed in the historic Atlantic Coastline Office Building, which served as the headquarters for one of the largest railroads in the Southeast until the 1960s (more on that in an upcoming post!). Before heading over to Penderlea, I grabbed an early dinner at one of my favorite Wilmington mainstays, Elijah’s. Located along the Wilmington Riverwalk, it’s famous for its fresh seafood and sweeping views of the Cape Fear River.
In Outlander, Jamie and Claire reach Wilmington by water in 1767, sailing in through the Cape Fear. For our purposes, we are imagining that the longleaf pines and cypress trees cradling the sandhills and swamps are metaphorical “standing stones.” Much like the stones in the series, they allow us to travel back 250 years into 1776 North Carolina.
I was first introduced to Outlander through the Starz show before falling in love with the books. While time travel is fictional, author Diana Gabaldon took great care to research the history of North Carolina and the heritage of the Scots-Highlanders—many of whom fought as Loyalists at Moores Creek Bridge. This blending of history and romance has created a massive following, and it’s wonderful to see how many fans are being drawn to North Carolina to visit the actual sites featured in the books.
In November 2025, during another “Revolutionary Journey,” I took an Outlander-themed walking tour led by Hunter Ingram, the director of the Burgwin-Wright House (Wilmington’s only Colonial-era home open to the public). Hunter recognized the opportunity to highlight the Outlander ties to the Port City, getting people excited about the Burgwin-Wright House’s place at the center of the real-life drama.
TV Magic: Because production is based in the UK, the television show was filmed in Scotland rather than North Carolina. Truth be told, Wilmington in 2026 looks very different than it did in 1776—for one, we have paved streets instead of the “muddy hell” of a walk down Market Street 250 years ago! However, the crew did an excellent job capturing the heartbeat of the era.
The tension of the months leading up to the battle—from the forced exile of Governor Josiah Martin to his ship, the HMS Cruizer, to the battle itself—is featured in Gabaldon’s novel, A Breath of Snow and Ashes. While the showrunners ultimately decided not to include Moores Creek Bridge in the series, many historical figures from the battle make an appearance, including the legendary Flora MacDonald.
Flora was a staunch supporter of the Jacobite cause. After the gut-wrenching defeat at Culloden in 1746, she famously helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape the British. Eventually, she and her husband, Allan, moved to North Carolina to start over. Ironically, Allan fought as a Loyalist at Moores Creek and was captured and imprisoned in Halifax, NC. Flora suffered greatly for her loyalties, eventually moving back to Scotland and noting she had been “whipped on both sides of the ocean.”
To celebrate this fusion of history and literary magic, the NC First in Freedom organizers arranged a special evening with Diana Gabaldon at the historic 1939 Penderlea Auditorium. The drive from Wilmington to Penderlea meanders through rural farmland and winding state byways; it feels ethereal, as if you are driving away from modern traffic jams and back into the past.
Penderlea itself has a rich story. Founded in 1934, it was the first of 132 planned communities under the New Deal’s Subsistence Homestead Project. This “Farm City” provided a fresh start for bankrupt landowners and tenant farmers during the Great Depression. Even Eleanor Roosevelt visited in 1937 for a Strawberry Festival, joining the residents for a square dance and documenting the trip in her “My Day” column.
- Plan your visit to the Penderlea Homestead Museum here
The event with Diana was sold out, which—given the remote location—speaks to the incredible draw of the series. Hunter Ingram served as the moderator, asking Diana about her research and creative process. I was struck by her authenticity; despite her global fame, she was humble, witty, and deeply grateful to her fans. She discussed how she “hears” the story—picturing a moment, hearing what Jamie would say, and then following the character’s motivation rather than a rigid outline.
The biggest treat? We heard a section from her upcoming final book!
Two Roads Diverge in the Standing Stones: In a recent interview I read with Diana Gabaldon, she expressed that because the TV show has not caught up to the books, the television show and final book will have different endings. The final season just began airing on Starz (I’ve been taking my time watching it as I dread it being over!). The good news is that you can continue to experience the real-life Revolutionary sites in Outlander right within the greater Wilmington region. Huzzah to Time Traveling History.
When I arrived back at the Aloft around 10 p.m., I grabbed a snack at the rooftop bar and noticed the USS Battleship North Carolina lit up in honor of the festival. The ship served in every major campaign in the Pacific Theater of WWII and stands as a beacon for those who fought for liberty. Seeing it lit up stirred my heart; my grandfather served in the Navy during WWII, and the sight perfectly captured what America 250 stands for—not our perfections, but our tireless pursuit of liberty.
February 28th: Moores Creek Bridge – A Fire of Independence Ignites
After the heavy rain and “cut to the bone” cold air on Friday, I was grateful that Saturday’s forecast delivered nearly perfect, balmy temperatures with crystal clear skies and sunshine. I knew parking would be a challenge at the battlefield, with thousands from across the region expected to attend the 250th anniversary celebrations. I arrived just after 9:00 a.m. and was fortunate to find a spot (though they had shuttles running for overflow parking).
For those who have never been to a living history event or reenactment, it is a life-changing experience. It truly brings history to life as you interact with historians who live and breathe the 18th century. They share detailed and fascinating information about Revolutionary War life—from the camp followers who supported daily operations (cooking, laundering, etc.) to the day-to-day existence of Continental soldiers and militia.
One of the highlights was gleaning facts from members of the Kingsbury Artillery, an 18th-century living history group with expert historians. These members camp on-site just as soldiers would have in 1776. One member was even roasting coffee as the Patriots would have done in camp. As a huge coffee fan (#destinationcoffee), I had no clue that a lighter roast actually has more caffeine than a dark roast, as roasting the bean longer eventually burns off the caffeine.
I also had the opportunity to speak with members of the Tryon Palace Fife and Drum Corps and Guilford Courthouse Fife and Drum. Revolutionary War musicians did not play for entertainment; they held life-or-death roles. Drumbeats and music signaled when to march, fire, or retreat. You’ll notice that the Patriot musicians actually wear “red coats,” and this is on purpose: musicians wore the opposite colors of their regiment so they could be easily spotted amidst the smoke and chaos. The British musicians wore different colors for the same reason.
I brought my “Flat Cornelius” (Harnett) with me as I walked the battlefield, exploring the monuments reflecting the history of this sacred ground. The only Patriot to die in the battle was John Grady, who succumbed to head injuries a few days after being shot. The Loyalists, meanwhile, suffered an estimated 68 casualties. Their commander, Brigadier General Donald MacDonald, had fallen ill before the battle and sent Lt. Colonel Donald Macleod to lead the charge instead. Macleod died almost instantly as he crossed the bridge, broadsword in hand, struck by at least nine bullets from cannon grapeshot and musket fire.
MacDonald was captured within days and imprisoned at the jail in Halifax. Many other Loyalists signed oaths of allegiance to the Patriots (promising not to raise arms again) and were dismissed. Most did not return to the Loyalist cause when Cornwallis returned years later.
Fun Fact about Donald MacDonald: He was a Scottish Highlander who actually fought against his kinsmen at the Battle of Culloden because he had been previously commissioned in the British Army. He also fought at Bunker Hill in Boston, where he was injured. He actually used that injury as a ruse to bypass Patriot patrols on his way to Fayetteville, claiming he was just visiting family to recover while he was secretly recruiting a Loyalist army. MacDonald was nearly 70 when he took on this role!
Another highlight was visiting the trades area, from the blacksmiths to the weavers. I even got the chance to “meet” Penelope Barker, who made international waves alongside her sisters-in-patriotism: the ladies of the Edenton Tea Party. On October 25, 1774, fifty-one women met at the home of Elizabeth King to sign a formal resolution to boycott British tea and imports. They sent their signed resolves directly to King George III. Not to be outdone, in March 1774, the women of Wilmington held a somber walk to burn their tea. The women of Carolina were truly pioneering patriots.
It was also a thrill to meet the ladies behind Outlander in Carolina – one of my favorite facebook pages for all things Outlander. They had a wonderful exhibit with a timeline of the Revolutionary War in NC and how Jamie and Claire played a role in the drama of America250. Check out their website here.
The main event was the narrated battle reenactment. It showcased the drama of the Patriot breastworks (earthworks) hastily constructed by Colonel Alexander Lillington and his militia. Colonel Caswell had ordered the bridge planks removed and the remaining girders greased with animal fat. The Patriots positioned two cannons—nicknamed “Mother Covington” and “Daughter”—on the works above. They fired “grapeshot” or “swanshot” (small iron or lead pellets) that were absolutely deadly. The Loyalists were primarily equipped with broadswords, which are useless when you are crossing a narrow, slippery bridge under heavy fire. Moores Creek is dark with tannins and was roughly ten feet deep that day; as men were shot, many fell into the water to their deaths.
As I watched the reenactment, I could feel the ground shake. The live oaks held their ground but nearly disappeared as sulfurous smoke filled the air, hanging over the grounds just as it did 250 years ago. The reenactors use blanks, but they still use real black powder, so you truly feel the heart-pounding intensity of the artillery.
Smoke in Your Eyes: There is some debate among historians regarding the timeline. One pension record mentions the battle was over in three minutes, while others cite a single charge. However, research by park staff like Ranger Jason Collins suggests there were likely three to five attempted bridge crossings before it ended. This would place the battle closer to the thirty-minute mark. Regardless, it was a quick and decisive Patriot victory that effectively ended the Loyalist movement in the region for years.
I finished the day listening to the Guilford Fife and Drum Corps in the Trades area, and enjoying Scottish dancing. I spoke with one of the rangers, who mentioned this was the biggest turnout they had every had for a living history event, with thousands coming over the weekend. Huzzah for Living History and the Drama of the Past Coming to Life!
After a jam packed revolutionary day of living history, I headed back to Wilmington around 3:00 p.m. for a night of theater. America 250 isn’t just about the war; it’s about celebrating our unique cultural patchwork. I finished my Saturday exploring the Wilmington Railroad Museum and taking in a show at the historic Thalian Hall.
Choo-Chooing into Wilmington’s Railroad History
My interest in Wilmington’s illustrious railroad past was piqued during an Architecture and History walking tour with Amanda Leese, owner of Wilmington Walking Tours, during my trip to the Port City in November.
Amanda explained that for over 125 years, Wilmington was at the center of railroad innovation and infrastructure. In 1840, the 161-mile Wilmington and Weldon Railroad became the longest continuous line of railroad track in the world. Wilmington’s port access was amplified by the emergence of the railways; goods could be shipped to the port and transported easily via rail, or brought from the interior for export.
This infrastructure made Wilmington a vital city for the Confederacy during the Civil War. Fort Fisher, located about twenty miles south of Wilmington, was known as the “Gibraltar of the South.” This critical stronghold protected the port and kept the Cape Fear River open for blockade runners. When Fort Fisher finally fell on January 15, 1865, it was after a massive Union amphibious assault—the largest in history until D-Day.
Wilmington was eventually captured by Union forces on February 22, 1865. While many Southern cities faced total destruction, the Union recognized how vital Wilmington’s railroad and port infrastructure would be for Reconstruction, leaving the city’s rail assets relatively untouched. You can learn about this wartime history at the Bellamy Mansion, which was occupied by the Union army following the city’s fall.
Wilmington, already the most populous city in North Carolina in the 1860s, continued to boom with railroad growth into the 20th century. Around 1900, several major southeastern railways, including the Wilmington and Weldon, merged to form the Atlantic Coast Line (ACL). The ACL was the largest employer in Wilmington until 1960, when the corporation moved its headquarters to Jacksonville, Florida. This was a tragic loss for the community, leaving both an economic void and a dent in the city’s identity.
The Wilmington Railroad Museum tells the story of this legacy. It is located right next door to the Aloft Hotel where I was staying, which actually repurposes parts of an old Atlantic Coast Line office building into its lobby and coffee shop. The museum building itself is a piece of history; constructed in 1883, it once served as an ACL warehouse. While many original ACL buildings were unfortunately demolished after the move to Florida, the museum and other preservationists have fought to save these remaining structures.
As I entered the museum, I could feel the history seeping from the brick and mortar. My only regret was that I didn’t have more time. I only had about forty minutes before closing, having spent the day at the reenactment, but this is hands down one of the coolest museums I’ve visited. Whether you are a rail-fan, a model railroader, or just curious about the past, I highly recommend it for all ages.
The museum was started by three local women with a heart for preservation: Hazel K. Morse, Gerda Wooten, and Marguerite James. They worked to ensure that the legacy of the ACL and Wilmington’s role as a global leader in rail travel would not be forgotten.
Fun Fact: The museum has a panel showing how the railroad transformed travel time from Weldon (near the Virginia border) to Wilmington. On foot, the 161-mile journey would have taken 54 hours (roughly seven days); on horseback, over 40 hours; and by carriage, 16 hours. In 1840, the steam engine cut that journey down to just five hours!
The museum is a treasure trove of memorabilia. Even in my short visit, I learned about the evolution of passenger travel and saw fascinating artifacts, like a telegraph once used to communicate between rural depots. I found myself taking dozens of pictures just to capture all the detail.
While the indoor exhibits are fantastic, both kids and adults love hopping aboard the historic Atlantic Coast Line Steam Locomotive #250. As I’m blogging my way through America 250, seeing that locomotive number felt like a perfect “God wink” for the weekend! Built by Baldwin Locomotive Works in 1910, the #250 is a Class K-14 “Ten-Wheeler” (4-6-0 wheel arrangement). It hauled freight and passengers between Wilmington and Fayetteville for decades. Today, you can climb into the cab and even ring the bell.
Nearby sits the Atlantic Coast Line M-5 Red Caboose, where you can step inside to see where the crew worked and how they kept the train safe and on schedule.
Inside the museum, the massive model train room is a showstopper, recreating Wilmington exactly as it looked in the 1950s. It even includes a model of the infamous “Maco Light” station. According to local lore, the ghost of a conductor named Joe Baldwin haunts the tracks near Maco, searching for his head with a lantern after a tragic 1867 accident. Many locals reported seeing the light until the tracks were removed in the 1970s.
I’m planning a more in-depth feature on the Wilmington Railroad Museum in May—stay tuned!
Curtain Call: Thalian Hall and Wilmington’s Theatrical Legacy
Today, Wilmington is “lights, camera, action” for a bustling film industry—one of the largest outside of Los Angeles. Recently, shows like The Summer I Turned Pretty and The Waterfront were filmed here. But did you know that Wilmington’s theatrical and cultural roots run much deeper—over 260 years?
The first play performed in Wilmington was in 1759. The city is the final resting place (in St. James Churchyard) for America’s earliest popular playwright, Thomas Godfrey, who tragically died at age 26 while in Wilmington. He lies buried in the same churchyard as Patriot Cornelius Harnett. Godfrey’s The Prince of Parthia was published two years after his death and performed from Philadelphia to Wilmington in 1767.
The Thalian Players, one of the oldest performing arts troupes in America, were formed in 1788. Although there were lapses in the organization over the years, it now ties in with Thalian Hall, where I had the chance to spend my Saturday night. (Fun fact: The Thalian Players took their name from Thalia, the Greek Muse of comedy.)
Thalian Hall is an artistic treasure—a living heartbeat of Wilmington culture and a crossroads of history. Built between 1855 and 1858 on the eve of the Civil War, the building itself is a masterful work of Classical Revival blended with flamboyant Victorian elements. It is the last remaining theatre designed by the renowned theatrical architect John Montague Trimble.
During a walking tour in November, I learned this site was once used by Native Americans; archaeological excavations even found burial grounds from the pre-European era. Prior to the construction of Thalian Hall, the site was home to the Innes Academy, which included a small theatre. The story of the Innes Academy shows the long-standing emphasis on culture and learning in Wilmington. Colonel James Innes, who served in the Virginia campaign of the French and Indian War, left the majority of his fortune to New Hanover County for the specific purpose of establishing a free school. This was a pioneering bequest for early free education in the region. The Academy’s theatre eventually fell into disrepair, leading to the push for a more modern performance center: Thalian Hall.
Thalian Hall is unique because it was built as a complex for both city government and the arts, with the theatre originally seating 1,000 people. In 1858, Wilmington had the largest population in North Carolina. The fact that the theatre could seat 10% of the city’s population at the time shows just how beloved the arts were here.
During the Civil War, the theatre stayed open continuously, serving as a refuge and a place of amusement during the depths of the conflict. After the war, the theatre was managed for a time by John Ford, who had previously owned Ford’s Theatre in Washington, D.C. After the tragedy of Lincoln’s murder, Ford was forced to leave D.C. (he had nothing to do with the assassination, but his theatre was closed). During the “Ford era,” Thalian was known as The Opera House.
Throughout its 168-year history, many renowned performers and speakers have graced the stage, including Frederick Douglass (1872), Oscar Wilde, Annie Oakley, Buffalo Bill Cody, Lillian Russell, John Philip Sousa, and the Ziegfeld Follies. When you enter the lobby, you can see framed photos of the actors who performed here—from famous Shakespearean actors on tour from London to productions through the decades.
Fun Facts:
- Historic Curtain: Thalian has one of the oldest stage curtains still in existence in the U.S. It is a hand-painted “street scene” from 1858 by artist Russell Smith.
- The Thunder Roll: Thalian Hall is believed to be the only theatre in the U.S. that still has a “thunder roll”—a 19th-century sound effect that uses a cannonball in a wooden trough to mimic the sound of a storm.
I was blessed to attend a fabulous performance of To Kill a Mockingbird starring film and television actor Cullen Moss (who has appeared on One Tree Hill and Outer Banks); his son also performed as Dill. Moss nailed the role of Atticus Finch. The production was deeply moving, and the crowd roared in a standing ovation as the cast took their final bow.
Whether you are staying at the beach or downtown, you must make time for a theatre night. This venue is a gem, and on any given night, you can see Broadway-quality productions for a great price. Pro-Tip: You can also take a backstage tour to learn more about the history and architecture. Book here
If you are looking for a cool local restaurant nearby, try Savorez for Latin-inspired cuisine with a Cape Fear spirit.
As I walked back to my hotel—downtown Wilmington is highly walkable—I passed by the Burgwin-Wright House and paused for a moment. Once the home of Loyalist John Burgwin, it later hosted Lord Cornwallis during his stay in Wilmington following his pyrrhic victory at Guilford Courthouse in April 1781. The home is built atop the ballast stone of the 1744 city jail. During the British occupation, many Patriots were imprisoned in that jail and in an open-air stockade across the street. Cornelius Harnett was held there with John Ashe until he was released just days before his death on April 20, 1781. I always stop to say a prayer at this seemingly mundane spot for those who sacrificed so much.
Harnett is buried at St. James Churchyard, along with Thomas Godfrey… more on that in our Sunday itinerary!
Sunday, March 1st: Rooted in History from Airlie Oak to Wilmington True History Tours
The first day of March felt like spring heaven, with sixty-five-degree temperatures and Cape Fear ocean breezes under clear blue skies. After checking out of the hotel, I headed over to one of my favorite places in the greater Wilmington area: Airlie Gardens. These 67-acre gardens border Bradley Creek, only a few miles from the Atlantic near Wrightsville Beach. This land has been inhabited for centuries—from Native American tribes to early plantations—before its transformation into a heavenly garden after Sarah and Pembroke Jones purchased the property in 1886. Pembroke Jones made his fortune in rice milling and railroad securities.
Revolutionary Connections: The Burgwin-Wright House, once home to Loyalist John Burgwin, was eventually purchased by the Wright family. This same Wright family once lived on roughly 320 acres that included portions of what is now Airlie. Joshua Grainger Wright purchased the land from the Ogden brothers, who had held it via a land grant from King George II since 1735! Joshua’s wife named the property Mount Lebanon because of its abundance of cedar trees.
There is a beautiful Episcopal chapel, Mount Lebanon, on the property that is still in use during the summer months. Built in 1835, it served locals who couldn’t make the journey into Wilmington to attend St. James during the months they lived out near Bradley Creek. This is one of my favorite spots in the gardens because it is a tangible link to the past that keeps you present in the “spirit” of the moment. I love to sit there to meditate and pray. The chapel was deeded to St. James in 1875 but remains accessible on the garden grounds.
The church graveyard includes a mysterious grave that feels more Count of Monte Cristo than coastal Carolina. In 1835, a “man of mystery” named John Hill died and was buried in a lone grave on the property. Rumored to be one of Napoleon’s marshals, he spent his later years living at Wrightsville Sound under an assumed name, tutoring the children of Richard Bradley Jr.
When the Joneses moved in, Sarah laid the foundation for the Airlie Gardens we see today—including the planting of its famous azaleas. The Joneses were the “Gilded” crop of Wilmington; a New York Times report once claimed they spent $300,000 a summer on entertaining guests. Can you imagine? The gardens were Sarah’s passion and a grand way to welcome guests for their legendary soirees. In 1931, Mrs. Jones hosted the first nationally publicized tour of her gardens, which attracted over 2,000 visitors from across the country.
When we talk about Revolutionary roots and America 250, one witness older than the United States itself is the Airlie Oak. It stands majestically among the live oaks, veiled in the whispering elegance of Spanish moss.
Did you know that in 1524, the first known European to visit these shores was Giovanni da Verrazzano? Based on his reports, he made landfall not far from Airlie. He would have seen this land—makes you wonder how much has changed and how much has stayed the same. It was around 1545 when the Airlie Oak’s acorn first hit the ground and took root. When you stand in the grace of its shade and tangled roots, remember that this oak has witnessed nearly 500 years of history! From Native American life to the Revolution and the Civil War, it has seen it all. I often sit and wonder: what could this oak tell me? Perhaps we can learn to be as strong as oaks—deeply rooted, yet able to bend in the wind.
Fun Fact: The Cape Fear region is home to many “Witness Trees.” In fact, one of the oldest trees in the world is a Bald Cypress in the Black River Preserve nearby. Another is the Indian Trail Tree in Keziah Park in Southport, which is said to be over 800 years old!
The cool thing about Airlie is that it changes with every season. In late February and early March, the camellias were blooming. By April, the azaleas take hold. Wilmington is the azalea capital of the world and hosts the North Carolina Azalea Festival every April with parades and music. During this visit, a highlight was seeing turtles sunning on a log near the Italian Gardens. I’m learning Italian and love Greco-Roman inspired design—this spot truly makes you feel like you’ve been transported to Italy.
Beach Vibes: If you’re looking for good eats near Airlie, Wrightsville has so many spots. Solstice at the Holiday Inn is great for oceanfront brunch. The Oceanic, South Beach Grill, and Tower 7 are other go-to favorites. I’d love to hear your favorite spots in the comments!
Portal to the Past: Wilmington True History Tours
I have to admit, I had a bit of a starstruck moment on Sunday afternoon when I had the chance to meet one of my favorite historians specializing in the history of the Cape Fear region: Dr. Chris Fonvielle, who taught at UNCW for years. Fonvielle has written several books, including a personal favorite, Curious Tales from Old Wilmington and the Lower Cape Fear (Books 1 and 2). While he is a foremost expert on Wilmington during the Civil War, he has a massive breadth of knowledge on the Revolutionary Cape Fear. I can’t wait for his new book on Moores Creek, which will feature archival evidence he recently tracked down.
To celebrate the 250th anniversary of the battle, Dr. Fonvielle and the team at Wilmington True History Tours partnered for a special Revolutionary War walk through Wilmington’s important—if often overlooked—role in the road to independence.
While I already have a deep knowledge of this area’s past, the cool thing about the Port City is that each time I visit and lean into the expertise of someone like Dr. Fonvielle, I find even more layers of history I never knew existed. Our tour lasted nearly three hours as we walked in the footsteps of Patriots like Cornelius Harnett (the “Sam Adams of the South”), William Hooper (Signer of the Declaration of Independence), and even visited where the “British Terror of the Cape Fear,” Maj. James Craig, headquartered British forces during the 1781 occupation.
Dr. Fonvielle challenged the idea that the Sons of Liberty and the early path to patriotism belonged mainly to New England. While Boston was pivotal, North Carolina was a hotbed of patriotism from the very start.
It was in Brunswick Town that the first armed resistance to the Stamp Act took place in November 1765. In February 1766, men like Cornelius Harnett held Governor Tryon and his Royal Official, William Pennington, hostage for several hours over the act. Tryon and the protestors “made up” after the Act’s repeal in March 1766, but the event empowered that spirit of Cape Fear defiance.
Fun Fact: Did you know North Carolina was the only colony to never issue the stamps due to these protest efforts?
Fast forward to 1773: Josiah Quincy of Massachusetts (a friend of Sam Adams) met with Harnett to strengthen ties between the Sons of Liberty in the North and South. He was so impressed with Harnett’s zeal for liberty that he dubbed him the “Sam Adams of the South.” In August 1774, the first Provincial Congress held by any colony in defiance of royal orders met in New Bern (after being planned in Wilmington in July).
Fonvielle shared the story of how Royal Governor Josiah Martin fled New Bern in May 1775. After dismissing the legislature in April because they supported the First Continental Congress, Martin fled to Fort Johnston (Southport) for protection. When he heard reports that Patriots planned to confront him there, he fled by night to the safety of the HMS Cruizer.
On July 19, 1775, Cornelius Harnett, John Ashe, and Robert Howe (a future Continental Army General) burned Fort Johnston to the ground. Martin was infuriated; he was now a Governor without a colony. He spent the next seven months planning the campaign that would eventually culminate at Moores Creek Bridge.
Fonvielle asserted that, logistically, the Crown should have assisted Virginia’s Royal Governor Lord Dunmore first, as he had also been ousted from his capital in Williamsburg. The Chesapeake would have been a much easier target than the treacherous waters of the Cape Fear. Yet, in Fonvielle’s opinion, Parliament backed Martin’s plan to retake North Carolina because a piece of the King’s property—a fort—had been burned. This was considered high treason.
Fiery Drama: The defenses at Fort Johnston were in poor repair partially because Robert Howe had been in charge of it for years—until a Swiss engineer and mapmaker named John Collet replaced him by Martin’s order. Howe was infuriated and used his influence in the legislature to block funding for Collet’s repairs. In a final twist of fate, Collet was among the British forces with Cornwallis who burned part of nearby Brunswick Town in the spring of 1776, following the Moores Creek defeat.
Wilmington True History Tours offers a variety of walks throughout the year. You can also catch Dr. Fonvielle giving tours via Wilmington Water Tours, which is a fantastic way to learn history while ferrying down the Cape Fear River.
I closed out my Revolutionary Weekend with a final stop at Wrightsville Beach and one of my favorite restaurants, The Oceanic, where you can enjoy a beautiful ocean view and reflect on a weekend well-spent in the 18th century.
Ready to plan your own Revolutionary Weekend in Wilmington?
Check out the article I wrote for Wilmington CVB on America 250: Wilmington is Revolutionary
You can also check out my blog post: Port of Call: Four Fun Days in Wilmington for more fun ideas in Wilmington based on my November adventures.
About American Nomad Traveler:
Hi, I’m Adele Lassiter, the travel enthusiast behind American Nomad Traveler. This is where I share my love for history, cool museums, art, and travel tips. When I’m not writing, I’m a singer-songwriter with a passion for Americana music. You can find my new album here: adelelassiter.bandcamp.com
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