On August 22nd, I embarked on a time traveling road trip into the heart of Revolutionary South Carolina’s Upcountry in the Oconee County region to learn about South Carolina 250 heritage and connect with other history lovers. What an adventure it was from a guided tour across Oconee 250 heritage sites to exploring the natural beauty and small town charms of Oconee County…this was a Revolutionary Weekend I’ll never forget.
- In this edition of American Nomad Traveler, we’ll take a time-traveling tour of Oconee County SC, in the beautiful South Carolina Upcountry…This is a deep dive as I learned so much history, but feel free to grab a coffee and take your time as we travel through Revolutionary Oconee County SC!
SC250: Huzzah for History!
The Adventure: SC250 Quarterly Gathering, a Rendezvous with History in Oconee County…Huzzah for History…
Did you know that America’s 250th anniversary didn’t end on July 4th, 2026? In fact, the commemoration is only just beginning. The British surrender at Yorktown, Virginia, didn’t occur until October 19, 1781, and the final peace treaty wasn’t signed until 1783. While significant fighting took place in South Carolina from 1775 to 1776, the brunt of the state’s fierce struggle for liberty escalated following the fall of Charleston on May 12, 1780, igniting the decisive Southern Campaign.
South Carolina 250 works to share stories of South Carolina’s legacy in the fight for independence. Each of the state’s forty-six counties has an SC250 commission where each community works together to share the history and culture of their region and those who helped forge liberty and inspire us to kindle the flame of liberty and freedom today. SC250 hosts quartering gatherings for each county, along with museums, historians…to come together to learn more about history and discuss SC250 Commission goals. The Quarterly Meetings are open to the public and a great opportunity to connect with history. Each quarterly meeting is held in a different part of the state, helping to highlight each of South Carolina’s unique regions contributions to the Revolutionary War and beyond.
For this quarterly meeting, SC250 headed to Oconee County in the Upcountry, a place known for it’s natural beauty and rich history.
“Where the Revolution Was Won”
South Carolina’s Revolutionary history embodies the American story of ingenuity, resilience, and the relentless, ongoing pursuit of independence—told through the diverse voices of those who shaped it. SC250 is on a mission to celebrate and promote South Carolina’s vital role in the American Revolution by educating, engaging, and inspiring others to explore the state’s rich history and culture. Through their efforts, visitors and residents alike can discover the significant people, places, principles, and events of South Carolina’s Revolutionary Era.
My SC250 Connections
I have deep roots in both North and South Carolina. Through my grandmother’s side, I am a direct descendant of several South Carolina Patriots, including:
- Thomas Heyward Jr. – Signer of the Declaration of Independence for South Carolina.
- Col. Edward Barnwell – A Patriot officer who was captured by the British and held on a prison ship in Charleston Harbor.
- Major William Hazzard Wigg – A Lowcountry commander credited with saving the life of diplomat and officer John Laurens in 1779.
I love to travel throughout the region learning more about South Carolina’s Revolutionary War History, I was thrilled to have the opportunity to explore Oconee surrounded by history buffs and experts in South Carolina’s Revolutionary War period.
Get to know Oconee County:
Tucked in the northwestern corner of South Carolina, Oconee County is the only county in South Carolina that borders two other states, North Carolina and Georgia. It is a perfect destination for history lovers, waterfall wanderers, mountain lovers, water enthusiasts and small town explorers. Oconee County and the environs really offers something for everyone, from the mountain scenery, breathtaking waterfalls, rivers and lakes to history and culture – Oconee is a must visit hidden gem.
According to local historian and Director and Chief Curator of the Museum of the Cherokee of South Carolina, Luther Lyle, Oconee is an Anglicized version of the Cherokee word ‘Ae-Quo-Nee,” which depending on the context means “beside the waters.” This is a perfect name for an area known for its beautiful natural rivers, waterfalls and manmade lakes like Lake Keowee.
- Waterfall Heaven: Did you know that Oconee County is home to over 300 waterfalls. While some of the waterfalls are only accessible via hardscrabble hiking, there are many waterfalls that are accessible for easy viewing or via a short distance hike. Check out Oconee County’s Waterfall Guide. Pro-Tip: My favorite ‘easy’ hike is Issaqueena Falls
- Land besides the Waters…For me there is nothing more peaceful than sitting by a mountain lake with the sunlight shimmering on the waters, for a moment allowing yourself to just be still and take in the scenery. For your perfect lake retreat, Oconee has four lakes for recreation and relaxation:
- A River Runs Through It: Oconee County has two free-flowing rivers running through the hills and valleys:
- Chattooga
- Chauga
- State Parks – Fun, History and Scenic Adventures:
- Oconee State Park: a historic mountain park built during the Great Depression by the CCC with cabins, camping and recreation like hiking, swimming, birdwatching…
- Oconee Station State Historic Site – 1792 Frontier Fort and Trading Station (stay tuned we’ll be visiting this site on our adventure)
- Devils Fork State Park on the shores of Lake Jocassee
- Lake Hartwell: on the border of South Carolina and Georgia border
Rooted in History: Oconee County
Oconee County was home to Native Americans for centuries (with archaeological evidence showing settlements dating back as far as 300 AD), including serving as the ancestral homeland of Cherokee people. In the years leading up to the American Revolution and the Cherokee War of 1776, Cherokee families lived in over two dozen villages known as the ‘Lower Towns’ across present-day Oconee County, including Oconee Town itself. These villages were situated along major streams and rivers, ensuring the community had direct access to fresh water, food, and river transportation.
Unfortunately, what remains of these Lower Towns today is mostly submerged beneath man-made lakes or hidden within overgrown forests, but their story remains woven into the very fabric of the land. During my visit, I was fortunate to tour several sites tied to the Cherokee legacy of Oconee, and I’m eager to explore even deeper on my next trip.
While I’ve long been passionate about South Carolina’s Revolutionary War history—especially in the Carolina Backcountry from the New Acquisition District to the Waxhaws and Camden, as well as my own ancestors’ Revolutionary ties to the Lowcountry from Charleston to Beaufort—I didn’t know as much about the struggles that unfolded in this corner of the state. That changed when I had the opportunity to join a day-long history tour hosted by SC250 and Oconee 250. The tour took us to key Revolutionary War and historic sites across the region, shedding new light on how the Revolution played out in the deep backcountry.
It was in this landscape that famous Patriots like Brigadier General Andrew Pickens fought, and where Cherokee communities—who allied with the British in hopes of protecting their sovereign homeland—faced devastating hardship and lost nearly everything. The war in Oconee County was a complex mix of territorial conflict and civil war, the kind of heavy history that truly makes you stop and grapple with the human cost of 1776.
Stay tuned as we dig into the history of Oconee County as I recount the weekend adventures…
August 22nd, 2026: Charming Small-Town Seneca, the Legend of Ram Cat Alley and a Lakeside Retreat
I left my homebase in Raleigh just after twelve and powered by an audio book on the Revolutionary War (The Road to Guilford Courthouse by John Buchanan) and my backroads Americana playlist from Dolly Parton to SC’s homegrown Hootie and the Blowfish, I drove the nearly five hours to the Oconee County.
I did take a Revolutionary Detour, stopping briefly in downtown Spartanburg to visit the statue of one of my favorite patriots, a hero of Cowpens (just up the road from Spartanburg) General Daniel Morgan. I was fortunate to attend the 245th anniversary of the Battle of Cowpens in January and explored other regional Revolutionary War sites like Battle of Musgrove Mill State Park and Ninety-Six.
During my visit to Cowpens I connected with several representatives from SC250 County Committees, who let me know about South Carolina 250’s amazing Quarterly Gatherings.
In these gatherings, volunteer committee members from South Carolina’s forty-six counties come together for several days of history, learning, community and planning to help share the story of South Carolina’s important role in the American Revolution.
During the Revolutionary War, South Carolina played host to over 200 skirmishes and major battles. New Jersey is the only other state that comes close. If it weren’t for the heroism and fortitude of those who fought in the Carolinas, and the spark of liberty that wouldn’t be extinguished in the heart of the Carolina backcountry in the darkest days of 1780-81, the tide wouldn’t have turned towards Yorktown. In South Carolina, every event in the Revolutionary War, no matter how small, played a critical role in turning the tide and helping to win the war for Independence.
In an effort to highlight each of the state’s diverse regions and the important Revolutionary War and heritage from the Low Country to the Santee to Olde English District to the Upcountry and beyond, SC250 moves the quarterly meetings to different host locations each quarter. This is a wonderful way to visit and learn about each region from its cultural and historic roots to enjoying modern day fun like good eats, shopping, scenery…
While I’ve visited the Upcountry before, coming down from Cashiers in North Carolina for a few day trips to visit Lake Jocassee, this was my first time visiting the majority of Oconee County including Seneca.
I love nature and find such peaceful hiking trails and searching for waterfalls (taking TLC’s advice of course and staying on trail)…I have always been interested in Native American history especially the Cherokee and was excited to have two days in the area surrounded by fellow history lovers to discover the fabric of Oconee’s fascinating and layered past to the dynamic small towns that keep its heartbeat pumping today.
I arrived in Seneca, around six o’clock. And College Sports Fans, Seneca is only fifteen minutes from the quaint college town of Clemson.
Upon reaching Seneca, my first stop was checking in at the Fairfield Inn and Suites, which was one of the recommended hotels by locals. The staff was super nice and I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the hotel is on the shores of Lake Keowee. Some rooms have views (mine didn’t, but that’s okay because there is a massive deck overlooking the lake with a pool as well. Talk about relaxation dreams come true! While prices vary, the rates for a lakeside hotel were very affordable for a weekend in August. I definitely would stay here again.
After unpacking, I decided to take advantage of the last hours of daylight and explore Downtown Seneca. From the minute I parked my car and began wandering the historic streets of Seneca I fell in love. This is an oasis that feels like it is a scene from a Hallmark movie. Sure that sounds cliche, but truthfully, if I were crafting a cozy perfect town, Seneca would be an inspiration.
When I visit a historic small town, I always take time to pause and look up at the small architectural details, and also look down at the sidewalk beneath my feet – walking through history. Seneca is anchored by its historic train depot and historic buildings filled with eclectic local shops and delicious eateries. You feel the pull of the city’s railroad boomtown past, while the energy of the present as families, students, and in between were enjoying the warm summer evening. Walking down the streets you could smell the whiff of delicious food from tacos to steaks, and the buzz of conversation.
While some of the shops were closed by the time I arrived, I loved looking in the windows and the locally owned businesses that sell everything from art and books to clothing and more.
In researching the history of Seneca, I learned it was founded on August 14, 1873 specifically to support the booming Atlanta and Charlotte Air Line Railroad. The name comes from the earlier Cherokee Indian Village Esseneca that used to be in the area of the nearby Seneca River. We’ll learn more about the Cherokee and the trials they faced during the Revolutionary War during our SC250 Oconee Tour.
Given its location only a few hours from Charlotte and Atlanta, along with the region’s site as an agricultural community, Seneca became a busy spot for the railroad and grew into a commercial center for marketing the area’s cotton crop. It is said that during the cotton harvest, at the cotton weighing platform at the railroad freight station, wagons piled high with cotton would line up for blocks during the harvest season.
Even before the creation of Lake Keowee and other area lakes, Seneca became a popular destination for relaxation and business trips for travelers from Atlanta, Charlotte and other regional cities. Sadly it was torn down due to structural issues in the 1980s, but during the heyday of the railroad, the Oconee Hotel (also referred to as the Keowee Hotel) was considered a fine place for accommodations and hospitality. If you pause for a moment near the train depot for a second you might be able to hear the echoes of history and the whistle of a train as a passenger gets off and makes their way for a stay at the Oconee Hotel. If only we had a window to peer back into history. Luckily historic photos can help us at least imagine the scenes.
After the long drive, I was in desperate need of a latte and a snack. If you follow me on facebook, you’ll know I’m a #destinationcoffee girl…I am always ready to ‘spill the beans’ on cool local coffee shops. Local coffee and tea spots are the heart of every community and I was thrilled to discover that local favorite Brews on the Alley was still open.
Brews on the Alley is the ‘cat’s meow’ for delicious coffees, wines and craft beer. I mentioned the cat pun because it’s located on Ram Cat Alley, which I’ll share the purrfect ‘cats who love history’ story in just a minute.
I ordered the toffee nut latte…it was smooth and not too sweet, just what I needed after the long drive. The staff was excited that I was traveling to Seneca for the first time and gave me some tips on good places to eat nearby.
I’m a cat lover, so when I saw the street sign ‘Ram Cat Alley’ I was curious about its roots. Suddenly I noticed artistic cats throughout downtown. I sensed a theme…why is Seneca filled with cats? When I was taking pictures of the historic depot, I got the answer, the Legend of the Ram Cat Alley Cats…
In the train depot area are pictures and stories from a children’s book that tells the legend of Seneca’s purrfect cats:
“Cats are truly a wonderful addition to our world. Wherever you travel, you are certain to come across a cat. Cats can be found in story books, poems, movies, cartoons and music…but if you really want to experience an array of unusual, truly unique cats, you need to visit Ram Cat Alley in Seneca, South Carolina…”
The story then tells that in the early 1900s when Seneca was a hub for the Atlanta and Charlotte Air Line Railroad that dozens of trains from all over the country would pass through downtown Seneca and some of these trains had cats. At the time Seneca had several local grocery and eateries like Fred Hopkins Meat Market near the train depot…the cats would smell the cats from the train and get off to investigate the food and end up staying in Seneca as permanent residents, enjoying the scraps from the butcher shop or become adopted by local cat lovers.
Locals noticed the large number of cats who’d always been by Fred Hopkins for food scraps (their version of modern day Churu or Temptations Treats), and joked that ‘You couldn’t ram another cat into the alley.’
- Want to help real life Seneca cats, you can support one of the area cat rescues like Oconee Humane
Each page of the story book tells of different Seneca cats and their legendary stories of fun and adventurous cats. The book is for sale locally and is such a creative and fun use of storytelling and public art.
Downtown Seneca has a variety of wonderful restaurants depending on your palette.
A few favorites of mine from the visit:
- Vangeli’s provides fine dining with gracious hospitality that makes you feel like you’re right at home. I recommend their Bacon Blueberry Salad and they also have great (Gluten Free) Risotto
- Taco Julios: I ate here on Sunday night with my SC250 friends – it has a fun atmosphere and great food)
- Keowee Brewing (I didn’t get to stay long, but checked out the atmosphere and it’s such a cool spot.)
My Sweet Addiction…Ice Cream and the Scoop on B. Lakeside
- I’ll admit, I’m pretty healthy most of the time, but I have a weakness for coffee (it’s essential for getting going in the morning, right?) and ice cream. I cannot resist local homemade ice cream. I was pretty full but I had to try a scoop at local Seneca frozen treat hangout ‘B. Lakeside.’ This is like something out of my cozy small town dreams…they have cute lake themed clothes and accessories on one side and ice cream on the other! I decided to indulge in a scoop of the maple walnut and it was rich and delicious. They also have soft serve too! This is your sweet spot after a day exploring Oconee history, hiking to waterfalls or a day at the lake!
At sunset on Seneca, I headed back to the hotel and spent an hour working on historical research before falling asleep, dreaming of adventures in the Upcountry.
August 23rd: Rendezvous with Revolutionary War History and SC250
SC250’s Revolutionary Road Trip across Oconee County began at the Fairfield Inn at nine o’clock a.m. on Sunday morning. While the gatherings include planning meetings for SC250 county volunteers from across the state, many of the events are open to the public and a fun way to engage with history and make a little ‘history’ with other Revolutionary War enthusiasts.
As I filled up my coffee in the lobby before the tour, I was excited to run into several friends I’ve met through my Revolutionary War Travels, including York County 250 committee member Dr. Robert ‘Bobby’ Walker, who I mentioned in my features on Historic Brattonsville and the Battle of Huck’s Defeat, as well as the Buried History of Bethesda Presbyterian Church…I also ran into the amazingly talented Eric Barnes aka Historyman who has a wonderful podcast about the American Revolution as well as a series of comics getting kids (and adults) engaged in the gripping drama of the Revolutionary War in the Carolinas.
- Historyman aka Eric Barnes: I first met Eric in person at the Museum of the Waxhaws (Waxhaw NC, near Charlotte), but was introduced to his work when I picked up a few of his comics during a visit to Andrew Jackson State Park in Lancaster SC. I was impressed by the great storytelling to get all ages (especially kids) excited about history and the importance of our foundational documents like the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution. In addition to his fabulous comics, Eric hosts a fabulous podcast – Historyman Podcast. Check out his website here.
What I loved about this tour is how you had different people from all over the state (and me, the North Carolinian with South Carolina 250 roots), coming together and having a wonderful time learning about history and culture and sharing our passion for keeping the history alive. I met so many new friends and fellow history buffs during our ‘History Field Trip.’ Grateful to have such an awesome time with amazing people.
Here’s the rundown of our Revolutionary Itinerary:
Stop One: South Cove County Park – Crystal waters, Forest Trails and Hallowed Ground where Patriot Jesse Hall Rests
Oconee County is a place that feels like heaven came down and kissed it, with the Blue Ridge in the distance, the skyline feels like a painting, and the deep emerald to crystal clear waters of the rivers and lakes that invite you to relax, ponder and set ‘sail’ for adventure. The great thing about Oconee County’s historic sites and nature is that much of it is accessible via public parks and area museums – an affordable opportunity to enjoy a bit of heaven on earth for any budget.
A perfect example of this is Oconee’s South Cove County Park, a forty-eight with access to the pristine waters of 18,500 acre Lake Keowee, camping, fishing and boating, playgrounds, tennis and thick forests where you can find shade on a hot summer day. One of the rangers who greeted us on site mentioned that the park is home to over 200 bird species including shorebirds, falcons and bald head eagles. I was lucky enough to enjoy a moment of peace watching ducks lining up in a row and quacking to say hello.
South Cove also has a conference center, which would be the site of the official SC250 meetings on Monday. The conference space overlooks the lake…
In addition to South Cove’s serene lakeside views, this site is rooted in Revolutionary War history as it includes the hallowed grounds of the Hall Family Cemetery including Patriot Jesse Hall.
“We’re starting our SC250 Heritage Tour of Oconee County by paying respects to one of our local patriots Jesse Hall, who is buried in the Hall Family Cemetery just a few steps from where we stand,” a member of the Oconee 250 Commission welcomed the group of history enthusiasts. “And to share the history of Jesse Hall, as well as an overview of Oconee County’s role in the American Revolution, I want to introduce you to a former state park ranger and Revolutionary War historian Scott Alexander.”
Scott looked as though he’d stepped time, as he was dressed in period authentic clothing similar to what a Revolutionary War South Carolina militiaman would have worn in the Carolina backcountry.
“Today we’re standing by the Hall Family Cemetery, the site of the final resting place of Revolutionary War Patriot, Jesse Hall. While Jesse Hall is buried here, he actually wasn’t involved in the fighting that occurred in Oconee County, but relocated here after the war and his family is buried here as well,” Scott explained. “Oconee County was on the Carolina frontier and part of the 1776 Cherokee War which was fought with South Carolina militia like Capt. Andrew Pickens. Jesse Hall actually served in the Continental Army.”
Scott took a moment to give some background on the differences between the Militia and Continental Army.
“It wasn’t financially viable for the British to keep military units every single colony, so from early on, a militia system of self-defense was established. This goes back even before the French and Indian War. Each state was required to have a militia and each district (county) would supply militia members. This was compulsory, which every able bodied man of age 16-60 required to serve. With the militia, they would meet several times a year and officers would practice drills.” Scott then added a bit of ‘spirited history,’ by explaining that militiamen were more likely to show up when they served alcohol. “You can imagine how successful that was,” he laughed, “men with whiskey and rifles, probably not the best combination.”
“The Continental Army was formed by the Continental Congress and headed up nationally by General George Washington. Jesse Hall served as a regular (enlisted man paid for services) in the Continental Army. Each of the thirteen colonies were required by Congress to supply officers for the Continental Army and they were contracted for service. Some Continental soldiers looked down on the militia in part because their were instances the militia weren’t as well trained, but as the war drug on the militia became very important.”
“Generals like Morgan (Cowpens) and Greene also recognized how to utilize the militia alongside of their regular forces,” I discussed with a fellow history buff nearby. “In South Carolina like the Battle of Huck’s Defeat at Brattonsville (York County, SC today), it was the militia that rose up to help halt the British forces (loyalists, Provincials, Regular army)…”
Scott told us that by the end of the war members of the militia outnumbered the Continental Army 5 to 1. He said that the National Guard today is descended from the militia system.
- Learn more about Militia and Continental Army here
“Jesse Hall was born in 1755, in Pittsylvania County Virginia, the eldest of 18 children. As a young man he established a farm in Wilkes County, North Carolina.”
I was hanging on every word as I leaned in to listen, as the reference to Wilkes County was close to my heart. In March of 2026, I traveled to Wilkes County to research the areas vital role in the fight for independence and the Civil War aspect between local loyalists and zealous patriots like Colonel Benjamin Cleveland, who hung at least five loyalists (aka Tories) on the Tory Oak, which you can see a piece of in the Wilkes Heritage Museum. I love when my historical travels and the people and places I’ve ‘met in the past,’ intersect on another history adventure.
“Jesse Hall joined the Continental Army a few months before the Declaration of Independence was signed in 1776.” As I listened, I wondered if the patriot victory on February 27th, 1776 that helped kick the British out of North Carolina helped convince Jesse to join up. Moores Creek was mostly loyalists and local Patriot militia, but probably helped encourage him to sign up. “He initially served Lieutenant George Dougherty and later John Baptiste Ashe Company for about two and half years. He fought in several key battles including: The Battle of Brier Creek, GA on March 3, 1779 and The Battle of Stono Ferry (June 20, 1779) before being captured during the fall of Charleston on May 12th, 1780, having served under General Benjamin Lincoln…”
Scott briefly gave us a rundown of the ‘Southern Strategy’ and how the Fall of Charleston on May 12, 1780 led to what would be a brutal Civil War in South Carolina between British forces (loyalists, Provincials, regulars) and American Patriots (militia, Continentals…). “The British originally tried to take North Carolina and South Carolina in 1776, but were unsuccessful so the fighting was focused primarily in the Northern Colonies. By 1777-8 it had hit a stalemate so the Southern Strategy was devised to invade the South where they believed there was a silent majority of loyal ‘friends’ of the king who would rise up to retake the colony and then help end the war. While the British did retake Charleston on May 12, 1780, after a six-week siege, the Southern Strategy didn’t go as they planned…over 200 bloody skirmishes occurred including the war here in the Upcountry of South Carolina…”
- Want to learn more about South Carolina in the Revolutionary War, I highly recommend Dr. Walter Edgar’s Partisans and Redcoats. It’s a quick read, but packed with history and real life drama.
“He was paroled after the fall of Charleston by promising to not fight against the British again.However when he returned to Wilkes he realized his property had been destroyed and the area active with loyalists,” Scott continued to fill us in on his service.
Realizing Wilkes County wasn’t safe, in spite of his parole oath, he decided to rejoin the Continental Army. If he had been recaptured by the British, it could have meant his being executed, but to Jesse Hall when your property is destroyed and liberty is on the line, sometimes you have to rise to the courage of the day. He ended up fighting in important battles like the critical victory of Battle of Cowpens, South Carolina (Jan. 17, 1781), the Battle of Guilford Courthouse (modern day Greensboro NC on March 15th, 1781) and the Battle of Eutaw Springs ( September 8th, 1781 in South Carolina). He served in the Continental Army until receiving his discharge on May 9, 1782.
After his service in the Revolutionary War, Jesse Hall received land as a bounty from the government, settling on what is now South Cove County Park. This area known as Bounty Land was part of a broader region granted to veterans in recognition of their service. When Jesse passed away in 1833, he left the property to his son, Thomas Hall, with the condition that his mother and four siblings be allowed to continue living there.
Jesse Hall married Hannah Louise Kelley, the daughter of Mr. and Mrs. John Kelly on August 16, 1785 in Rutherford County NC. They had twelve children. He died in Oconee County in April 1833, at the age of seventy-eight years. Jesse left the land to his son Thomas Hall, with the condition that his mother and four siblings be allowed to continue to live there. Thomas later sold part of the land to his brother, Zechariah, who aimed to develop it into a large farm. The farm eventually was sold to other families, but the Hall legacy and those connected to them remain in the soil here and in this historic cemetery. It is a blessing that is protected by Oconee County in South Cove Park, with markers of his service in place by the SAR (General Andrew Pickens Chapter) and DAR (Walhalla Chapter).
To honor Jesse Hall’s memory and salute his service, Scott shot three volleys over the grave, which is a honorary salute for patriots common by the SAR and other organizations.
A Bitter Liberty: The Cherokee War of 1776
I’ve always admired Cherokee culture. One of my earliest memories is visiting Cherokee, North Carolina, with my dad as a kid, and how I was drawn into their stories, art, and heritage. I love discovering their heartbeat in the Blue Ridge Mountains—in every place name or legend that Cherokee people keep alive in their stories about their community in the present and the past. I remember in grade school first learning about the Trail of Tears and the hurt and anger I felt for those who suffered being forced from their homeland, as well as learning about those who hid in the hills of the Blue Ridge.
And as much as I’ve studied the American Revolutionary War, I’ll admit it wasn’t until a visit to Sycamore Shoals State Park in Tennessee in July 2025 that I began to learn more about the war being fought in 1776 along the frontiers from Virginia to the Carolinas (Tennessee was part of North Carolina then) as intense fighting with Cherokee forces occurred.
At Sycamore Shoals, I learned about the divisions among the Cherokee over the Transylvania Purchase led by men like Judge Richard Henderson of North Carolina, Daniel Boone, and others. Many Cherokee elders wanted to lease or sell land in the Watauga River area and parts of Kentucky to the settlers, while younger leaders like Dragging Canoe were fiercely opposed to settlers encroaching on their land—an expansion that was technically illegal under British law. In researching the Transylvania Purchase further, Dragging Canoe was not the only one livid at Henderson. Henderson, a judge in Hillsborough, North Carolina, who was well aware of the Royal Proclamation Line of 1763, faced the ire of Royal Governor Josiah Martin of North Carolina as well as Royal Governor Lord Dunmore of Virginia. However, the die had been cast as settlers poured into the Watauga settlements.
Dragging Canoe and others opposed to the encroachment on their land attacked Fort Watauga near Sycamore Shoals in July 1776… Many Cherokee families in the area and white settlers had tried to remain peaceful, seeking a better life, but I also understand the deep frustration of Dragging Canoe and the Cherokee who felt their sovereign rights violated.
What I didn’t realize at the time was that Oconee County, South Carolina, and the surrounding region were ground zero in the Cherokee War of 1776. It is a tragic, crucial chapter of history often overlooked in the broader narrative of the American Revolutionary War.
1776 on the South Carolina Frontier
When we think of 1776, we think of the Declaration of Independence or battles like Sullivan’s Island (June 28, 1776) between Patriots and British regulars or Loyalist militia… However, in Oconee County, the fight was far different. The fight was for land, survival, and security for both Cherokee inhabitants and settlers in the Upcountry of South Carolina.
In Oconee County and the South Carolina Upcountry, you can learn about the Cherokee, the Patriots, and the bitter fight for what both sides desired: liberty and security in this land. Scott did a great job explaining the different aspects of this fight on the Carolina frontier in 1776 from the perspectives of both Cherokee people and the Patriots.
“When we think of the ‘frontier,’ we think of John Wayne in Monument Valley or Marshal Dillon in Dodge City, Kansas, but in 1776, this region that later became Oconee County was considered the wild west of South Carolina! The conflict here wasn’t so much about taxation without representation (although that played a role); for the Patriots, they wanted to be able to settle the land and build farms, while Cherokee people, who had lived in this area and established over a dozen towns in present-day Oconee County, feared they’d be kicked out of the homeland that had been theirs for generations and was sacred to them.
“You cannot understand the events of 1776 in present-day Oconee County without understanding the fallout of the French and Indian War, or as it is often referred to in South Carolina, The Cherokee War of 1760, because there was fighting in this region including at Fort Prince George, which is now under Lake Keowee. This was fought not just in America but in Europe and even in India—it was an expensive, global world war. When that war came to an end, even though the British secured a massive victory against the French and their allies, it left Britain essentially bankrupt. Britain decided to begin taxing colonists on things like stamps and tea… we’ve heard of ‘no taxation without representation’…” Scott explained.
“However, there is one part of this that doesn’t get the headlines like the taxes do, and that is western expansion. The population in the colonies was expanding, as was the need for growing families to find land for their own farms and homesteads. In the French and Indian War, many Americans who fought believed they were fighting to have the right to expand their ability to move west into what had been French and Indian territory.
“But as far as the English were concerned, a lot of the French and Indian War in America occurred because of illegal encroachment by colonists into territory they had no rights to settle in. The British, instead of opening up the lands after the French and Indian War, actually set a boundary line. They went so far as to tell the colonists who had settled that land to burn their homes and move east of the British boundary line. You can imagine this news didn’t go well for the colonists. So, while direct taxation on things like stamps and tea might have angered citizens in Charleston, for the backcountry especially, western expansion was a critical issue that left many bitter after the French and Indian War.
“The Native Americans were more than happy to support the British on this issue, as they wanted to keep the colonists out of their territory… So, much of what led up to the Cherokee War of 1776 was fear on both sides: Cherokee families rightfully afraid that settlers would take their land, and those colonial Americans seeking to have a chance to live in the area and expand as the population grew.”
Many Cherokee leaders, zealous to protect their lands, felt that allying with the British Empire would give them the best hope of protection. Honestly, I can empathize with their struggle and decision at the time. Britain was a superpower and had set the boundary line, which in theory protected Cherokee interests after the French and Indian War.
The Fight Comes to the Upcountry
In the summer of 1776, Cherokee warriors launched coordinated attacks across the frontier, including South Carolina and the northwestern corner of Georgia (not far from present-day Oconee County). Patriot militia responded with brutal counter-expeditions into Cherokee territory, destroying all sixteen Cherokee Lower Towns in what are now Oconee, Pickens, and Anderson Counties, along with surrounding areas. The Patriots realized that the most effective way to weaken Cherokee resistance was to destroy their crops and food stores. While this campaign eventually forced the signing of the Treaty of DeWitt’s Corner on May 20, 1777, it left the landscape of Cherokee life forever altered and subjected their communities to severe hardship and winter famine.
This is a hard conflict to grapple with. Cherokee war parties attacked settlements, which triggered devastating Patriot counter-attacks, but the real tragedy rests on the ordinary townspeople and families on both sides who were simply trying to survive.
“For you college sports fans, I bet you didn’t know that the town of Clemson is built on the site of the Revolutionary War battlefield? In the years leading up to the Revolutionary War, modern day Clemson was known as ‘Esseneca Town,’ located along the Seneca River. This was one of nearly two dozen Cherokee Lower Towns in Pickens and neighboring Oconee County. What happened in present day Clemson then Esseneca (not to be confused with modern-day Seneca).”
“We think football is a battle, but a real battlefield, kind of eerie,” I mentioned to my friend.
“On August 1, 1776, Major Andrew Williamson’s South Carolina militia, who had been leading raids on Cherokee towns given the back and forth fighting between the two, was ambushed by a group of Loyalists and Cherokees. One of the patriots who was killed in the battle was Francis Salvador who was the first Jewish American to be killed in the Revolutionary War. A reenactor friend of mine is a Judge and brings up in our historical meetings that many founding documents for this region and South Carolina are partially in Hebrew because of Francis Salvador.”
- Francis Salvador is buried in Charleston and here are a few interesting articles about his life and legacy:
“Now a few weeks ago, a few of you I believe were able to attend a last minute reenactment of the Battle of the Ring Fight organized by historian Durant Ashmore. I participated in that event to help keep the history of the battle alive. It was an important skirmish in the Upcountry that took place right in Oconee County and an important victory for the Patriots over the Cherokee, even if on paper it seems like a small battle. South Carolina had over 200 battles, and while some seem small, none were insignificant.”
“I attended that event,” my friend Bobby Walker told me. “It was excellent.”
“The Ring Fight or the Battle of Tamassee occurred on August 12th, 1776. Tamassee Town was one of the Lower Cherokee Towns in this region. Unfortunately we were unable to save the land for a state site years ago and it’s now private property, but you can visit the Tamassee Town Heritage Marker about thirty minutes north of our current location at South Cove.” Scott then turned to ask a question. “How tall is corn in early August?” The crowd gave various answers, before settling on not full grown but to your knees. “The Patriots realized that they wouldn’t be able to beat the Cherokee head on through fighting alone so they began destroying their food before the harvest, which is a scorched earth policy which hurts everyone unfortunately. Capt. Andrew Pickens had been told that the town of Tamassee had been evacuated by the Cherokee and his twenty-five man scouting party passed through Tamassee not expecting an attack…much to their surprise the twenty-five men were met by a force of 185 Cherokee!”
I could feel my heart beating harder in my chest as I imagined the Cherokee surrounding Pickens and his men in a cornfield. Each thinking they were in the fight for their lives and liberties.
“The Cherokee greatly outnumbered Pickens and his men, but were low on gunpowder, so the Cherokee were fighting hand to hand combat, which is bloody and hard to fight off. Pickens’ ordered his vastly outnumbered force to form two rings facing outwards. The small inner ring and larger outer ring took turns firing, allowing the inner ring to reload while the outer ring fired. This ensured that you’d have a wall of gunpowder at all times, while giving the alternating rings time to reload. The Cherokee then surrounded Pickens’ men in a circle of their own and attempted to cut through Pickens ‘ring with hand to hand combat. The battle ended when Andrew’s brother, Joseph Pickens, who heard the gunfire in the distance brought reinforcements and the Cherokee retreated.”
“What were the casualties?”
“Pickens lost 11 of his men and buried them in the abandoned Cherokee village of Tamassee, while the Cherokee lost sixty-five men and left fourteen wounded. This was a big blow for the Cherokee as they only had 2000 warriors across the nation who were fighting and losing sixty-five souls, that’s a hard loss.”
“The SC250 Commission is debuting an original painting of The Ring Fight tonight at our evening event,” Oconee County 250 reps spoke up. “It’s an original painting by renowned military artist Jeff Trexler.”
“Pickens, for some reason, liked to build his homes overlooking the battlefields were he fought. After the war, Pickens built a home in Tamassee and he became friends with many of the Cherokee in spite of the bloody struggles they’d faced. They believed he was a brave warrior and called him Skyagunsta, which some translate to Wizard Owl. The house no longer stands, but you can visit a homestead he built in Clemson near Esseneca. He is buried in the Old Stone Churchyard in Clemson.”
Scott had everyone’s attention as he shared his expertise on history…for many of us it was the first time we’d really encountered this important part of the Revolutionary War in South Carolina…
I’m grateful that throughout this SC250 Weekend, we were able to explore the Patriot perspectives alongside the cultural heritage of Cherokee people by engaging with local historians, visiting regional museums, and walking through the lands Cherokee ancestors cultivated for centuries.
On the Carolina Frontier: Travel through Time at Oconee Station State Historic Site
Stop Two: Oconee Station – Crossroads of History
This area’s history runs deep, at the crossroads of ancient footpaths and trading routes, Oconee Station invites you to time travel through this region’s somewhat forgotten but important history. From the Cherokee roots at the once thriving village of Oconee Town to serving as South Carolina military complex in the early years of America (1790s) to trading post, to a state historic site tied to greater Oconee State Park…Oconee Station is the detour into history you’ve been waiting for.
After concluding our rendezvous with history at South Cove with Scott Alexander (thank you for your expertise), we loaded up in the multiple vans bound for our next stop.
“We’re heading to Oconee Station State Historic as a cool site that takes you directly to the heart of Oconee County in the 1790s,” one of our tour guides mentioned as we drove the twenty minutes from South Cove through quaint winding roads to Oconee Station State Historic Site.
“Our next stop takes you to the early years as our nation was being forged in the years after the American Revolution,” Rachel, one of the site’s park rangers, greeted us. “Today you get to travel back to the 1790s and early 1800s when this site served as a frontier outpost and a meeting place between European-Americans and the Cherokees of this region during the late 1700s.” She explained that while this site isn’t directly tied to the Revolutionary War, its location near Cherokee trading paths and Oconee Town weaves it into the fabric of the Revolutionary War to the formative years of South Carolina’s frontier.
Rachel shared this history as we walked up maybe 50-100 ft hill, where you see two historic structures, a military blockhouse dating to 1792 and a later 1805 brick home built by William Richardson.
I was grateful that the summer heat was suffocating as my hometown of Raleigh, which had been clinging to the near 100 degree temps, but even in the foothills of the Blue Ridge, the mid-eighty degree temps and humidity could feel like an oven. It felt wonderful to stand under the towering mulberry trees and dense pine forests providing shade from the hot sun.
“Standing at Oconee Station today with these generations-old trees that this dense forest is exactly how it looked in 1792,” Rachel addressed us as we took advantage of the shade of a mulberry tree. “However, during the 1790s this forest wouldn’t have been here. The Cherokee were very smart about cultivating the land and soil and would purposefully burn the forest periodically and then after a few years the decay would help strengthen the soil for better planting and then you’d plant trees in the farmland that was no longer viable and repeat this process cyclically. These trees were planted after Oconee Station was built in 1792.”
“Today this spot feels isolated, and it was a frontier location in 1792, but placed here strategically given its location near Cherokee trading paths and also was not far from what was then a hotly contested state line dispute between South Carolina and Georgia. In 1792, this military blockhouse was built as one of six military outposts across the Upstate of South Carolina as westernmost defensive points. South Carolina State Militia were stationed here to warn settlers of any imminent raids by the Cherokee and Creek Indians.” Rachel dug into the history. “By then the threat of attack by Native Americans wasn’t a big issue and actually this site was a trading post for deerskin and other goods traded with the Native Americans…Oconee was the only station that remained in operation after 1796. However while the Indian threat had diminished, Georgia was being a ‘bulldog.’”
Go Dawgs, Go Tigers, Go Gamecocks…banter briefly erupted…
“Sounds like a football showdown, but seriously in the 1790s, Georgia and South Carolina were both trying to claim land that is now in Oconee County. Our nation was young and many of these state boundary lines weren’t completely fixed as they are today, so you had Georgia and South Carolina going back and forth debating who owned parts of present day Oconee County. In building this military outpost if Georgia did win their bid for this part of South Carolina they’d have to take on the post and pay South Carolina for it. So Oconee Station really helped convince Georgia to lay off South Carolina.” In researching the fascinating history Rachel shared, I learned that in 1787, Georgia signed the Treaty of Beaufort with South Carolina technically ceding the lands, but it was still contested by locals into the 1790s.
Rachel took time to give us a deeper history into the Military Blockhouse itself, from its role in serving as an outpost to later use by resident William Richards.
“This blockhouse was built in 1792 and twenty to thirty troops were stationed here through 1799. It is the oldest building that survives to this day in Oconee County. It is also the only one of the six original outposts that is still standing.” Rachel went on to explain that many of the garrison would divide up at night in their tents and the actual blockhouse wasn’t used a ton for quarters.
We first entered the stone building through the basement, which even without modern air conditioning was cool due to its original design for storing food. Rachel informed us that the walls were twenty inches thick as it was originally designed as a mini fort, able to withstand attack. Today there are windows on the second level, but those were once slits similar to a medieval castle where you could fire your gun out as the enemy was attacking from outside the fort. The fort didn’t see action like this, but was designed for a worst case scenario.
Rachel also explained that both the block house and neighboring Richards House have been modified over the years, but was restored as much as possible to the original style several decades earlier by a historian once it became a state historic site.
In 1795, Irish immigrant William Richards moved to Oconee Station and began to run an Indian trading post. Deerskin was in high demand in Europe and Southeastern Indians responded by hunting millions of deer annually for trade. In exchange they received weapons, cotton and linen fabrics, run, ornaments, tools, etc…guns made it easier for the Cherokee to hunt deer. In addition to trading deerskins, Cherokee also bartered for goods such as baskets, ginseng, snakeroot and other items. I always find it interesting how trade throughout history, across cultures brings people together at the ‘crossroads,’ and can be beneficial in many ways but also cause problems depending on the trading.
History Uncovered: In 1809 William Richards estate inventory was listed as 30,000 pounds of deer skins, 329 bear skins, 82 pounds of ginseng and many other goods.
“In exchange for the deerskins, Southeastern Indians often received clothing made of European cotton and other fabrics and began wearing some of the apparel akin to their white neighbors, vice-versa, many whites who traded with the Native Americans and became their friends began wearing blended clothing like fringed deerskin jackets.”
“The grand brick home you see behind me was the William Richards House and it was considered a frontier mansion. Many homes in this area at the time were log cabins, but having a brick home shows wealth, but was also practical against fire. The brickwork here is extraordinary with a mix of English and Flemish bond. Richards fired all the bricks onsite and had been trained as a brick mason in Ireland. If you look up at the exterior of the front of the home, you’ll see a stone marker with Richards’ name and the date 1805, the year the home was built. That’s a neat detail, as many homes don’t mark the date of completion and the home owners name.”
Sign Posts: When you visit historic sites don’t miss the chance to connect with history by pausing to read the signposts. Oconee Station has a number of information signs and even a digital kiosk with videos and maps!
Fun fact: Rachel told us that the Mulberry Trees were planted near the Richards home because they could be used to make Mulberry Brandy, which would have been an important resource for the family and those coming by the Trading Post.
Oconee Town: The Town is Gone, but the History Still Calls
Before leaving Oconee Station for our next stop we had the pleasure of hearing from Museum of the Cherokee in South Carolina director Luther Lyle. He shared history about the nearby Cherokee settlement of Oconee Town.
Oconee was one of the Lower Cherokee Towns in present-day Oconee County. It was at the base of Oconee Mountain and on the main trading path between the British and Cherokees. While many of the Cherokee towns were destroyed or abandoned during the Revolutionary War, Oconee Town was abandoned in 1752. In 2017, Oconee County was able to purchase the original town site, and Luther explained how they’d worked with archaeologists to study the town site. You have to hike in and it is connected to private land, but just the fact we stood so close to this ancient site that was an important community for the Cherokee and along a historic trading path brought the history to life.
We’ll learn more about the Cherokee in a bit during our visit to the Museum of the Cherokee Indian in South Carolina during our visit in Walhalla.
Hungry for History and Tours of Walhalla’s Museum Row
By twelve thirty hunger pangs were setting in for everyone and we headed over to the nearby town of Walhalla, which is another small town treasure in Oconee County. As we drove into town I noticed the cute shops downtown and historic architecture. In the distance are the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains as guardians of Walhalla.
Walhalla only has a population of around 4300 souls, but that hasn’t stopped this community from being a museum lovers hotspot. Walhalla is home to three amazing museums nestled in its charming downtown: Oconee History Museum, Museum of the Cherokee in South Carolina and Oconee Military Museum…. Each museum focuses on a layer of the region’s unique and rich history.
The Oconee History Museum was gracious enough to host our group for lunch in their gathering space, where they had delicious sandwiches and salads from a local deli. It was a wonderful opportunity to connect with other history buffs from across South Carolina from Lee County to York County to Abbeville and Ninety Six regions and beyond.
We shared successes with getting people excited about history from students having the chance to read an Eric Barnes ‘Historyman 1781’ thrilling comic about famous South Carolina patriots like Thomas Sumter to Francis Marion, to the Carolina Day Celebration.
- Carolina Day commemorates South Carolina’s patriot victory over the British at the Battle of Sullivan’s Island near Charleston on June 28th, 1776 that effectively kicked the British out until spring of 1780. During this battle with heroes like William Moultrie and William Jasper (when the South Carolina flag was shot down from the fort by the British, Jasper restored the banner while under the fire of the Royal Navy…the Palmetto Flag remains a testament to the bravery of patriots to this day). SC250 celebrated the 250th anniversary of the Battle of Sullivan’s Island not only in Charleston, but also across the state from Lizard Man Carolina Days Festival in Lee County to events in the Olde English District to the Low Country…across all forty-six counties and countless towns and communities South Carolina came together to celebrate 250 with a week of Carolina Days.
Oconee History Museum – A Treasure in the Foothills
In my travels I love exploring regional museums where you can truly encounter the past through stories of those who helped build these small towns and the legacy. The Oconee Museum may be small, but it’s packed with history from a Native American canoe and artifacts to legacy of early frontier life, the Oconee Hotel sign, Duke Energy’s creation of the region’s lakes and everything in between. You could spend several hours here if you are like me, a sign reader who has to dig into every detail, but if pressed for time you can tour the highlights in thirty minutes.
Cats who LOVE History: I met a purrfect tour guide too with Pimento Cheese, a rescued cat who now serves as CFO (Chief Feline Officer) of Exhibits.
Museum of the Cherokee of South Carolina:
This museum is a MUST Visit while in Oconee County. Luther Lyle and the staff have done a wonderful job sharing the story of the Cherokee who call this land home and the legacy of their history. It also shares the story of other tribes that came before the Cherokee with countless artifacts and historical exhibits telling their legacy and heritage.
Luther took time to discuss several foods we can thank the Cherokee and other tribes for including BBQ, (he remained neutral when asked the modern BBQ debate between the Carolinas – what sauce do you use); as well as grits.
It was fascinating to learn that the Cherokee invented Lacrosse, which got its name when a French Trader saw the hand cross movement done at the beginning of the game and in French called it ‘the cross,’ la crosse. The Cherokee refer to Lacrosse as ‘Stick Ball.’
One of the staff members recommended I purchase a copy of the book, ‘A Demand of Blood’ about the Cherokee War of 1776 by renowned author Nadia Dean. Unfortunately this book is out of print, but I was able to get one of the last copies of it in the gift shop. I’m halfway through the book and I’m so grateful for the recommendation.
- The Museum of the Cherokee isn’t just about the past, it’s keeping the heritage alive for the future. They have a number of programs including Cherokee Language Courses at the museum.
Oconee Military Museum at Patriots Hall:
Another gem of a museum, the Oconee Military Museum tells the stories of South Carolina (specifically Oconee’s connections) Military History from the Revolutionary War to modern conflicts. They offer an opportunity for visitors to see firsthand what veterans have contributed to, and often sacrificed for our country, the world and our freedom.
As I walked the exhibit halls it was hard to keep my composure as I was so moved by the stories of those who sacrificed everything for others to have the chance of freedom. The memorabilia takes you from major conflicts and life at war, but it was the personal stories and connections to the county that moved you. The staff is so friendly. The museum is perfect for military history buffs, but also has exhibits that are perfect for those just tapping into history for the first time. In this case they had a special exhibit about Elvis in the war.
The tour group packed back into the vans around two-thirty and we headed back to the Fairfield Inn for a break before our Revolutionary War evening activities.
I was happy to freshen up about hiking through history, but excited for a Revolutionary SC250 evening.
Huzzah for History:
At six p.m. SC250 and Oconee County 250 and partners hosted the gathering participants for a fun evening of spirits, history and conversation at the Historic Davenport event venue in Downtown Seneca.
This elegant and gracious venue was the perfect place to enjoy conversation, food and hear from members of the SC250 committees. I’m so grateful for the local Oconee 250 Committee for the excellent job in hosting us and sharing their story. Oconee County is a destination I know I’ll return to time and again from waterfall wandering to historic expeditions…Oconee is calling.
Evening Connections: I loved sharing conversations about history from the Low Country to Old English District to the Upcountry and beyond. As a Revolutionary War History Addict I can’t wait to continue to explore SC250 History and share the multi-faceted heritage of South Carolina’s Revolutionary War role…We’re still toasting to 250. History is always in style!
For more about South Carolina 250 events and help planning your Revolutionary South Carolina road trips, I recommend these resources:
South Carolina 250 Official Page: https://southcarolina250.com/ (remember to sign up for their newsletter!)
South Carolina 250 YouTube Page (love the Historyman animated comics here!): https://www.youtube.com/@southcarolina250
Where the War was Won – Wide Awake Films Documentary: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BGxqfmYBqY
Need help with planning tips or want to share a story about Revolutionary South Carolina (or travel, history, etc…) you can email me at: americannomadtraveler@gmail.com
About Adele/American Nomad Traveler:
Hi, I’m Adele and I love history, traveling to scenic sites, small towns, museums, city sights…I started this blog to share my passion for history and travel providing my insights for what I’ve learned along the way. I have written features for Wilmington NC, Randolph County NC, Wilkes County NC, Abingdon VA…I collaborate with museums, nonprofits and tourism to help get people excited about history. This is a passion project for me and I’ve grateful for your support.
On my main blog (americannomadtraveler.com) I focus on deep dives and curated travel guides, but you can also find mini-history and travel stories on my socials and Substack:
- Substack: Shorter content and also unique stories for Substack readers…follow both for double dose of travel and history!
In addition to my history adventures, I love art and music and I’m a recording artist. My EP, American Nomad was released in August 2024 and several songs hit the top 10 in folk and indie radio, including our blog’s theme song ‘Rendezvous Heart.’
You can purchase/stream the album here: https://adelelassiter.bandcamp.com/
Collaboration? I love to help share stories about history, cool towns, cozy bed and breakfasts, coffee shops, art, music, museums…the list goes on.Want to work together – feel free to email me at: americannomadtraveler@gmail.com
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