Just a short two-hour jaunt down I-40 from my home base in Raleigh, Wilmington, North Carolina, has long been my favorite coastal escape. Recently, I had the incredible opportunity to spend four jam-packed days exploring this vibrant city and the surrounding Cape Fear region, and I discovered even more reasons why it’s a must-visit destination.
In our new Cape Fear Explorer Series, we’ll dive into the history, visit cool sites, and, of course, explore my favorite eateries and coffee haunts to help you plan your complete adventure.
To kick things off in this post, I’ll share a few reasons why Wilmington is a Must-Visit Travel Destination, before sharing my November 2025 itinerary, hopefully inspiring you to plan your own Wilmington and Cape Fear travel adventure.
From its storied history to its sensational coffee scene, good eats, arts and culture, and beach vibes, you’ll fall in love with Wilmington.
Here is a preview of the incredible attractions that await you:
The Waterfront Vibe: Cape Fear River & Battleship NC
Wilmington’s location on the Cape Fear River is its heart. The 1.75-mile scenic riverfront walk provides sweeping views, refreshing breezes, and immediate access to an eclectic mix of local shops, historical sites, and mouthwatering restaurants. You can enjoy a fun boat cruise or a historical carriage ride along the original brick streets. Directly across the river, you’ll see the most decorated battleship of World War II—the Battleship North Carolina, which operates as a living history museum honoring those who sacrificed everything for freedom.
History Comes Alive: Exploring a 230-Block Historic District
History is truly alive in Wilmington. The massive historic district spans over230 blocks, showcasing architectural styles from the Colonial era to Federal, Victorian, and post-Civil War. Several of these historic homes are open to the public, including the Georgian-style Burgwin-Wright House (Colonial era), the Civil War-era Bellamy Mansion, and the Italianate Antebellum Zebulon Latimer House (now home to the Lower Cape Fear Historical Society).
Within twenty to forty minutes of downtown, you can also reach pivotal sites like Historic Brunswick Town/Fort Anderson, Southport (Fort Johnston), and the massive Civil War fortification, Fort Fisher.
Fun Fact: Wilmington is home to eight historic districts, with the downtown 230-block area being the largest. Much of Wilmington was spared during the Civil War due to its unique strategic position on the Cape Fear, twenty-eight miles from the Atlantic Ocean. After Fort Fisher—the last major Confederate coastal fort—fell, the Union realized it would win the war and decided not to burn Wilmington, recognizing its vital role as a viable port city needed during Reconstruction. This is why so much of its historic architecture survives today!
As you meander the downtown streets of Wilmington, you’ll notice that many of them are paved with brick. These brick roads date back to the early 1900s. Originally, many streets were simply paved over with asphalt, but as the asphalt breaks down, the brick is exposed. Wilmington is now actively removing the pavement on many historic district streets, having found that the brick is actually easier to maintain given the relative lack of snow and ice here.
I look forward to diving into Wilmington’s rich history both on the blog, Sub and our social media pages (facebook, Instagram). Don’t forget to subscribe for the latest posts.
100 Reasons to Love Coffee: Wilmington’s Cafe Culture
Wilmington has nearly 100 (yes, you read that right!) local coffee shops! As a coffee lover who loves to discover cool cafes, this city truly has a ‘latte’ to love. They recently launched a Coffee Passport, which is a fantastic program inviting you to hit the ‘grounds’ in search of the perfect local espresso. I’ll be doing a Destination Coffee feature on my favorite Wilmington java joints soon.
Fresh Off the Boat: Cape Fear’s Culinary Scene
What never ceases to amaze me is the diverse and sensational culinary scene here—it’s out of this world. While Wilmington is the largest city in eastern N.C., it has deep roots in the centuries-old agriculture and fishing industries. During my stay, every restaurant I dined at like Rx Chicken and Oysters, Circa 1922, Pinpoint, Pilot House…had a strong focus on true farm-to-table—or should I say fresh off the boat—cuisine.
Chefs and servers told me about their work with area fishermen to only serve the freshest North Carolina seafood. We even get our own delicious Blue Crabs from the Cape Fear, though some are ironically sold up to Maryland—a testament to the quality! Many restaurants are reintroducing heritage recipes and cultivating local vegetables like squash and Carolina Gold Rice into their menus.
Arts & Culture: Museums for Every Passion
Wilmington has long had a deep passion for arts and culture.
- The state’s oldest history museum, the Cape Fear Museum of History and Science, dates back to 1898.
- The Wilmington Railroad Museum tells the story of the city’s golden era as the railroad capital of the Carolinas.
- Latimer House – Lower Cape Fear Historical Society: Learn more about the history of the Lower Cape Fear in this grand Antebellum era Italianate Home.
- The CAM Art Museum is a treasure trove of national and regional artists.
- The North Carolina Aquarium at Fort Fisher is a family favorite located right on the coast.
- Historic Homes like the Burgwin-Wright House, Latimer House and the Bellamy Mansion tell the story of life in Wilmington from the Colonial Era to Civil War and beyond.
Beach Breezes and Sand in Your Shoes
Wilmington is the gateway to some of North Carolina’s pristine beaches. The closest are Wrightsville Beach, Kure Beach, and Carolina Beach, but you can easily drive to the Oak Island and Ocean Isle areas in neighboring Brunswick County for a perfect day trip.
Venus Flytraps & 500-Year-Old Oaks: Exploring Natural Beauty
Take a break from the historic streets in one of the many city and state natural parks:
- Airlie Gardens (home to a nearly 500-year-old Live Oak)
- Carolina Beach State Park (natural habitat for the fascinating Venus flytrap)
- The New Hanover Arboretum
Spend a day on the Cape Fear River with a guided tour or consider paddling the Cape Fear and its tributaries in the area.
A Pivotal Role in Independence (America 250)
When it comes to planning an America 250 Revolutionary War trip, many travelers think about Philadelphia, Charleston, Boston area, Williamsburg (Historic Triangle)…and while I love each of those cities and absolutely encourage you to visit them, don’t overlook Wilmington NC as a Must-Stop for your America 250 adventures.
We’ll be diving deep into this topic in the coming weeks as part of our special America 250: Revolutionary Roads series, exploring the Cape Fear region’s critical Revolutionary War history. While many history buffs focus on Wilmington during the Civil War, it’s important to note the pivotal actions of patriots in the Cape Fear region in the years leading up to and during the Revolutionary War. North Carolina was full of fiery patriots in the Cape Fear, so impassioned that they stood up against the Stamp Act in the first armed protests against the divisive tax in 1765-66.
According to a historian I spoke with about North Carolina in the Revolution, without a victory at the pivotal battle of Moore’s Creek Bridge in February 1776—the road to independence might not have been as successful. This victory helped convince the Fourth Provincial Congress of North Carolina in Halifax on April 12, 1776 to put forth the Halifax Resolves. Here North Carolina became the first state to authorize the Continental Congress to vote ‘yea’ for Independence. Many Cape Fear residents were at the Halifax Resolves including Cornelius Hartnett (leader of the Sons of Liberty in the Cape Fear) and Declaration of Independence Signer William Hooper (a Wilmington area resident at the time).
From Revolutionary War Sites to Beach Breezes: Four Fun Days in Wilmington…
Ready to plan your fun-filled itinerary in Wilmington and the Cape Fear Region? Here is the detailed rundown of my four day adventure.
Thursday:
I arrived in Wilmington, around 1:30 p.m. I couldn’t have asked for better weather, the temperature in the mid 60s with a crystal blue sky. As I entered town I noticed a few deciduous trees showed off their bright yellows and orange hues, while the evergreen Long Leaf Pine rustled in the wind. Wilmington and the Cape Fear is considered a subtropical environment that is milder that inland cities like my hometown of Raleigh. Here you’ll discover a diverse mix of natural flora and fauna from the North Carolina State Tree – the Longleaf Pine to the guardians of the coast – the hauntingly beautiful Live Oaks with willowly Spanish Moss. The natural beauty of the region is in the fabric of downtown Wilmington. For many natives the Live Oaks, Bald Cypress (including those lost to salt water called ghost balds), and pines are familiar friends. I’ll never forget after living in Montana for five years, I moved back to NC and took a day trip to Wilmington. I felt my heart skip a beat upon first seeing the long leaf pine and Live Oaks again. I took them for granted growing up in NC, but seeing them again I realized how much I missed even the most mundane of coastal natural scenery.
I bring up trees because North Carolina’s lumber and forestry industry has long been an important part of the economy, and was an important part of Wilmington’s growth from a sleepy settlement on the Cape Fear to a major industrial port. Basketball fans no doubt are familiar with our state’s moniker ‘Tar Heels’ – that nickname comes from cities like Wilmington where major producers of naval stores like tar, pitch, and turpentine from pine trees. The Live Oaks were used for building ships, including Old Ironsides. However many Live Oaks were not cut down as they provided important shade during the sweltering summer months. Today in Wilmington at places like nearby Airlie Gardens you can see countless live oaks including the Airlie Oak, which is nearly 500 years old. Down the road in Southport, the Hezekiah Oak is over 800 years old. Think of the history these trees have witnessed. The Cape Fear region near Wilmington is the furthest north that Live Oaks grow.
Revolutionary War: A Pilgrimage to St. James Cemetery
Before checking into my hotel around three p.m., I decided to start my Revolutionary War-themed adventures with a visit to St. James Episcopal Parish to explore their historic cemetery. While the current St. James Church building dates to circa 1840, this cemetery goes all the way back to 1751. If you’ve been following American Nomad’s blog, you know I’m a graveyard nerd. My fascination isn’t about hauntings, but because I love to learn about the lives of those buried there and pay respects to those that have gone before us. Keep an eye out for a feature digging into St. James and other area burial grounds.
St. James is one of the oldest burial sites in the region and, for me, is a pilgrimage point as I wanted to pay my respects to a personal hero of mine, North Carolina Revolutionary War patriot and Wilmington area native Cornelius Harnett. Harnett, along with men like John Ashe and members of the Moore family, has been dubbed the Samuel Adams of the South and ‘Pride of the Cape Fear.’ While that nickname is helpful, I think Harnett’s actions—from leading the protests against the Stamp Act to drafting the Halifax Resolves—deserve to be recognized in their own right. Harnett and his fellow Cape Fear patriots helped ignite the fires of rebellion and hope for a new nation in the south that was critical to the events that eventually led to American Independence.
Historical Icon: The Salvador Mundi Fun Fact: The Cape Fear region was subject to conflict long before the Revolution. On September 3–6, 1748, Brunswick Town was attacked by the Spanish during a minor conflict known as the War of Jenkins’ Ear. The Spanish temporarily overtook Brunswick Town before the colonists rose up, fought back, and sank their ship, the La Fortuna. Before the ship went down, the Americans took a painting of Jesus, Ecce Home (Behold the Mane) off the ship. This amazing icon from the Spanish invasion of North Carolina now hangs inside of St. James Church. The church was closed during my visit, but I plan to attend services there in the future to see it! As ‘fortune’ would have it, archaeologists just rediscovered the wreck of the Fortuna and are studying it.
The Cape Fear Ignites Rebellion
While I don’t want to throw dirt on New England, it is interesting to recognize that in 1765-66, seven to eight years before the Boston Tea Party, the Cape Fear region held the first armed protest in the colonies against the British Stamp Tax at Brunswick Town, followed by later protests in the heart of what is now downtown Wilmington. They even marched on Royal Governor Tryon’s House at Russellborough near Brunswick Town. The actions in North Carolina certainly played a role in the repealing of the tax in 1766, but also set a precedent for a more hardline approach in subsequent taxes.
Cornelius Harnett was one of the most important Patriots from North Carolina. Born in 1723 in Chowan County, the Harnett family later moved to the new development at Brunswick Town on the Cape Fear River.
Fun fact: Cornelius Harnett Senior actually purchased the first lot in town from town planter Maurice Moore Sr. (who happens to be my uncle up the line). My family helped found Brunswick Town, and I take a bit of pride knowing that they were alongside Harnett on the patriot front.
The Stamp Act and Cornwallis’s Vote
When the Stamp Act was passed by Parliament, American Colonists were livid. The principle was not just the tax, but the fact that as British citizens, they were being taxed without representation in Parliament. England placed the burden on the colonies, claiming they were helping American settlers.
Historical Irony: Later a villain of the Southern Campaign in the Revolutionary War, Lord Cornwallis actually voted against the Stamp Act in Congress and was pro-American rights circa 1765—but his loyalty to the Crown and ambition proved stronger than his political beliefs.
Harnett and Ashe were also involved in the Burning of Fort Johnston at present-day Southport on July 19th, 1775, which kicked Governor Josiah Martin out of North Carolina. Martin attempted to retake North Carolina with an army of Scottish Loyalist Highlanders in February 1776, but patriots like my cousins James and Alfred Moore, as well as North Carolina’s first governor Richard Caswell, helped defeat them at the Battle of Moores Creek Bridge, just west of Wilmington. The 250th anniversary of Moores Creek will be commemorated with the North Carolina First in Freedom Festival in February 2026..
According to a historian I spoke with about North Carolina in the Revolution, without a victory at the pivotal Battle of Moore’s Creek Bridge in February 1776—the road to independence might not have been as successful. This victory helped convince the Fourth Provincial Congress of North Carolina in Halifax on April 12, 1776, to put forth the Halifax Resolves. Here, North Carolina became the first state to authorize the Continental Congress to vote ‘yea’ for Independence. Many Cape Fear residents were at the Halifax Resolves, including Cornelius Harnett (leader of the Sons of Liberty in the Cape Fear) and Declaration of Independence Signer William Hooper (a Wilmington area resident at the time).
Harnett’s Tragic End
Harnett served in the Continental Congress from 1777 to 1780. Sadly, when he returned home to the Cape Fear, he and fellow patriots like John Ashe and Declaration of Independence signer William Hooper were captured and imprisoned during the British occupation of Wilmington in April 1780.
Harnett was beaten nearly to death and then thrown in an open-air pit cell, across the street from the Burgwin Wright House and presently underneath a parking lot. He was eventually released, but sustained too many injuries and illness from being in the elements to survive. He died on his birthday, April 20th, 1781.
Today Cornelius is often overshadowed by other major figures in American Revolutionary War history, but when you stop by his grave and meditate on his bravery, fortitude and sacrifice for the United States, you recognize how important Harnett was to North Carolina and the American struggle for Independence.
This cemetery is home to several other patriots and War of 1812 veterans, as well as many other storied citizens and graves known only to God. Look for our “Buried History- St. James Church” post soon.
He is even the star of the #flatcornelius campaign by North Carolina’s America 250 Commission to help raise awareness about NC’s important role in the American Revolution. The idea is that you can color your own ‘Cornelius Harnett’ Flat Stanley Style. I brought my Flat Cornelius along on this adventure as my Revolutionary sidekick! Download your #flatcornelius here.
Front Street Inn: Cozy Getaway in the Heart of Wilmington
For this adventure I was excited to check into one of Wilmington’s best kept secrets – the historic Front Street Inn, which is located within easy walking distance of the Wilmington Riverwalk, Historic District, restaurants and museums. It is the perfect basecamp for immersing yourself in the heartbeat of Wilmington from its historical sites to phenomenal foodie scene, cool shops and nightlife. While I did spend part of my weekend driving to sites like Brunswick Town, the CAM Art Museum and Airlie Gardens, for Wilmington’s historic district and riverwalk I was able to walk on foot easily, experiencing the charm of this city’s over 280 years of history. The oldest house in Wilmington (Mitchell Anderson House, circa 1738) is right beside the hotel.
The Front Street Inn is housed in Wilmington’s first Salvation Army building, which was built from 1923-24 to provide housing for single mothers and children in need. According to the Front Street Inn website, they have had visitors over the years who once lived or received services at the Salvation Army. I love the fact this building made such a positive impact in the lives of women and children. The Salvation Army is still a force for good in the community, but outgrew the building. It is awesome that the Front Street Inn saved the building and repurposed it for an inn.
The architecture is stunning. I sigh because while modern day engineering is rife with the latest technology I love the fact that buildings from the 1920s took careful pains to provide architectural beauty and symmetry even in spaces like a Salvation Army building. This structure was designed by Wilmington native and master architect James Lynch in the Mediterranean Revival (Spanish Colonial) style, which was popular in the 1920s. This design is reflected in the intricate windows, door archways and symmetrical facade. Read more about the building’s history here.
From the moment I parked, the staff was friendly and genuinely excited to welcome me to the inn. It felt like a scene from a Hallmark movie (yes I’m obsessed with them and don’t judge me) with cute puppy themed Christmas decor. Each of the inn’s rooms has a different coastal theme, with my suite having an ‘Hamptons’ decor vibe. I felt like one of the Wilmington film stars as I entered the beautiful suite, with a cozy living area and bedroom.
After unpacking my car, hunger pangs trickled in and I decided to try out the coffee and cocktail bar downstairs for a light snack before exploring the River Walk and environs.
Located on the ground level of the Front Street Inn, Concorde Espresso Bar serves up the best roasts, Italian sodas and cocktails from morning until night. It is designed to be a gathering place where guests can spill the beans over a toasted marshmallow latte made with their homemade marshmallows or a signature cocktail. The backyard fire pit is perfect for s’mores. The best part – the friendly baristas. Concorde is one of the stops on the Wilmington Coffee Passport. Any trip to Wilmington without a stop at Concorde is just ‘decaf.’
After enjoying my afternoon pick me up, I ventured out to explore Wilmington’s waterfront and peruse local shops. As a history nut, I always keep my eye out for historical markers and buildings connected to Wilmington’s past as a major port city, manufacturer of naval stores, cotton mill and railroad. Many of the retail and restaurants in Wilmington are tied to different epochs in the city’s industry. It is crazy to think that these same streets once were walked by me like George Washington during his Southern Tour in 1792 to film stars of the 21st century. Wilmington does a great job of blending the historical charm of the riverfront area in each of the shops. I loved checking out the eclectic boutiques to souvenir shops, including Edge of Urge, Black Cat Shoppe, Old City Market shops, Bayard Gallery and Cotton Exchange.
Wilmington’s Riverwalk is nearly two miles long and allows you to amble along the Cape Fear River. Across the riverbank you’ll see the Battleship North Carolina. We’ll be diving into this amazing warship in a future post. It was saved by children and Wilmington locals to help preserve its history as a permanent World War II history museum. The Battleship North Carolina is the most decorated battleship of World War II, serving in most major conflicts in the Pacific Theater.
No trip to Wilmington would be complete without taking in a fiery Cape Fear sunset. The colors are ones that would make Monet dream – the hues of pinks, oranges and purples…
With darkness descending quickly on this November night, the seventy-degree weather shifted to a crisp cool autumn night…the perfect atmosphere for a spirited ghost tour.
I used to love ghost stories, but I’ll admit after a few odd experiences, I recognized that God put a veil between the living and the dead for a reason. While I wasn’t looking to encounter ghosts, I did want to discover hidden history that you’ll often find on a ghost tour. To me history isn’t about dates and names, it is about living historical events that while in the past, affected the lives of real people. I want to hear their stories.
This ghost tour has won national awards for its excellent deep dive into history, and it is easy to see why. My tour guide, Ashley, did a phenomenal job taking us on a journey through Wilmington’s “history underfoot.”
In a city as old as Wilmington, every street corner and step you take is tied to a piece of the past. Many seemingly ordinary streets were the sites of extraordinary—and even tragic—events. For instance, the alley by the Burgwin-Wright House was actually used for public hangings during the Colonial era.
The highlights of the tour for me were the stops at Thalian Hall and the Bellamy Mansion. Ashley is a top-notch storyteller who transported us back through the history of these landmarks.
Thalian Hall: Thalian Hall’s roots go back to 1788 when the Thalian Association (a theatre troupe in Wilmington) was established. The site of Thalian Hall for originally used by Native Americans prior to European settlement before it then housed the John Innes Academy. The current Greco-Revival Theatre was built from 1855-1858, just before the Civil War. Many skilled free African Americans and enslaved African Americans, master craftsman in construction helped build the theatre. This is the only surviving theatre designed by John Montague Trimble. From 1867 John T. Ford leased and promoted shows in the theatre – this is the same John of Ford’s Theatre in DC. I was told by the guide that the interior is similar. Today the Thalian Hall continues to be a top theatrical destination for ‘spirited performances.’ Plan your visit here.
Bellamy Mansion: This gorgeous Greco-Revival and Italianate House is 10,000 square feet! It was built by enslaved labor and free blacks from 1859-1861 for planter John Bellamy. No sooner had it been completed the Civil War broke out. After the fall of Wilmington in 1865, Union Troops stayed in the home. I look forward to doing a feature on this home. A highlight are the original slave quarters, which gives a voice to their important legacy. Plan your visit here.
Dining at Circa 1922 After the ghost tour, I was haunted by hunger. Per the recommendations of local foodies, I managed to snag a table at Circa 1922.
This award-winning restaurant has been a Wilmington mainstay for 25 years. Housed in a beautiful former bank building from 1922, the interior exudes a vintage charm that invites guests to relax and enjoy great conversation.
The staff was super friendly, making me feel right at home. They took the time to walk me through their menu, which focuses on farm-to-table ingredients and fresh, in-season seafood. The cocktail and spirits list features a diverse mix of drinks perfect for raising a glass. I settled on the fresh seasonal sangria.
For dinner, I opted for the grilled flounder topped with local shrimp, served with a white wine and tomato butter sauce, alongside a Caesar Salad. The flounder and shrimp melted in my mouth. And as full as I was, I could not turn down the moist and delicious gluten free carrot cake. It was the perfect ending to a fantastic meal. Circa 1922 Website
Following dinner I walked back to the Front Street Inn and took time to reflect on my first day of amazing adventures.
Day Two: Outlander in the Cape Fear – No Standing Gemstones and Standing Stones Required.
For my second day in Wilmington, I had the opportunity to dive deep into Revolutionary War history and learn about one of my favorite television shows (and book series), Outlander.
As any time-traveler knows, you can’t make the journey without a good cup of coffee. Following the Wilmington Coffee Passport Trail, I stopped at Hidden Grounds, a popular downtown spot that helps you travel back in time 65 million years… The coffee shop is themed around dinosaurs and cowboys! Cowboys and Dinosaurs is the movie Wilmington needs made, by the way…
This is the only coffee bar I’ve been to where a T-Rex can drink a latte. While the kitsch vibe is fun, what makes this place stand out is the outstanding coffee. It’s perfect for a cowboy chasing dinosaurs. I ordered the Toasty Jack, a delicious fall latte.
Like many buildings in Historic Wilmington, Hidden Grounds has a hidden history. The structure was built in 1909 and served as the real estate office for Carl Peter Barthold Mahler in the early 20th century.
Outlander in the Cape Fear
If you are a fan of Diana Gabaldon’s worldwide sensation, the Outlander books and television series, you know that Wilmington and the Cape Fear play a significant role in Jamie and Claire’s story.
- Governor Tryon is a major player, offering Jamie a large land grant in the backcountry (Fraser’s Ridge) and then forcing him to raise a militia against the Regulators.
- Cornelius Harnett plays a role in the series, recruiting Jamie into the Sons of Liberty.
- The MacDonalds: Key figures of the Battle of Moore’s Creek Bridge, including Loyalists Flora MacDonald and her husband Allan, are also featured.
While there are some historical inaccuracies in the show, the majority of the series is on point regarding the major themes of life in North Carolina leading up to the Revolutionary War. It highlights the vital importance of the Cape Fear River, connecting Cross Creek (Fayetteville) to Wilmington and Brunswick Town.
The best part about the Outlander series is that it gets audiences excited about history. Many are making the trek (no standing stones or gems required!) to North Carolina to retrace the steps of Jamie and Claire.
Walking with an Expert For Outlander fans, there is no better way to encounter Jamie and Claire’s world in Wilmington than by spending a day with historian and Outlander expert, Hunter Ingram.
Ingram is the Assistant Director for the historic Burgwin-Wright House (the oldest Colonial structure in Wilmington open to the public) and the host of several podcasts, including the Outlander in the Cape Fear Podcast.
Hunter’s walking tour meandered through the historic district, where he shared key sites tied to real-life events featured in the franchise. We discussed the massive wave of Scottish immigration encouraged by Royal Governor Gabriel Johnston, and how the city grew from a port to a “Revolutionary Tinderbox” between 1767 and 1781.
A highlight was the Burgwin-Wright House, built by planter and merchant John Burgwin. It hosted everyone from political figures like William Tryon to foreign dignitaries. In Outlander, this house serves as the inspiration for the location where Flora MacDonald meets with Jamie and Claire.
During the occupation of Wilmington in April 1781, General Lord Cornwallis dined and was entertained at this home. The house was also the site of a Revolutionary War jail and sat near the gallows—and as fans know, both Claire and Jamie certainly faced their share of jail time! Stephen Bonnet would have been jailed here (during his stint in Wilmington jail for piracy and treachery among other things).
I’ll be dedicating a full post to the Outlander in the Cape Fear tour soon. When in Wilmington, checking out Hunter’s tour is a must.
Immediately following the Outlander tour, I was treated to a wonderful tour of the Burgwin-Wright House, which I’ll also be featuring in our America 250 series. This home is a treasure in Wilmington. The original ballast stone foundation dates back to 1744, when the site was used as the city’s original jail.
In the Colonial era, jails were often placed in the center of town so the public could witness punishments—a grim deterrent to crime. The hope was that seeing others locked up, beaten, or hanging by a rope would convince citizens to stay on the “right” side of the law. It also provided a convenient spot near industry, like the docks, where businessmen could hire inmates from the debtor’s prison to work off their debts.
Today these practices seem barbaric, but the legal system was not codified in the Colonial era. Corruption existed, and justice was often uneven—one man could be hanged for stealing a horse while another might go free if he had the right connections. Many of these injustices eventually helped lead to the Bill of Rights.
A House for Entertaining, Not Living With increased responsibilities as a private secretary to both Royal Governor Tryon and Governor Josiah Martin (1771-1775), John Burgwin, a prominent New Hanover County planter and merchant, realized he needed a gracious home in the center of Wilmington. He needed a place to entertain everyone from government officials to foreign dignitaries.
When the jail was eventually moved, Mr. Burgwin chose to build his home on top of the original foundation. The ballast stones provided strength, and the high bluff offered protection against flooding. The home was built in 1770 and began hosting guests in 1771.
But here is the fascinating part: Burgwin never spent a night here. He preferred his other townhouse. This was strictly a “show home”—a venue for entertaining dignitaries and securing political alliances. It is a testament to his immense wealth that he built such a mansion purely for parties.
What is Ballast Stone? You’ll notice these stone foundations on Wilmington buildings like the Burgwin-Wright and Mitchell-Anderson House. Historically, large stones were used in empty sailing ships to provide weight and prevent capsizing. After arrival, this ballast was often discarded at colonial landing sites. The stone was then recycled as a strong foundation for coastal infrastructure.
The Tides Turn: The Party’s Over
Given his position with Royal Governor Martin, Burgwin was dubbed a Tory in a town becoming a rebel stronghold. Realizing he didn’t want to be in the middle of the debate, he claimed he needed medical care for a broken leg and moved to England, renting the house to the Wright family.
Later in the war, General Lord Cornwallis fled to Wilmington to regroup after a pyrrhic victory at Guilford Courthouse. During his stay, Cornwallis was a frequent guest at the Burgwin-Wright House—it has even earned the nickname “The Cornwallis House.”
While previous records indicated Cornwallis used the home as a headquarters, my tour guide noted that new information disproves this. He was a guest, but likely did not sleep or work there.
After the Treaty of Paris, Burgwin returned to Wilmington and petitioned for his confiscated land. He continued leasing the property to the Wright Family until 1799, when they purchased the home outright. Stepping into the Burgwin-Wright House today instantly transports you into Colonial America and the center of the action of the American Revolution.
Ready to time-travel to the years leading up to and during the American Revolution – plan your Burgwin-Wright Adventure here.
From Scotland to the Cape Fear: Scottish Immigration Memorial at Brunswick Town
After a quick coffee and snack from the Concorde Espresso Bar at the Front Street Inn, I hopped in my car for the twenty-five-minute drive to one of my favorite historic sites: Historic Brunswick Town and Fort Anderson.
I have a strong connection to this Colonial-era town on the Cape Fear. It was burned by the British and never recovered, but its history lives on. My ancestors, the Moores, helped develop the town and lived in the area. In fact, several of my relatives are buried in the St. Philip’s churchyard, including my uncle Benjamin Smith, who served as an aide-de-camp for George Washington and later as the Governor of North Carolina. Smith and his Moore cousins, along with other locals like Cornelius Harnett, were ardent patriots.
(You can check out a previous post about the history of Brunswick Town here, and look for an in-depth series on Brunswick Town – Road to Revolution in late December 2025)
Scottish Heritage:
While it’s always a great day to visit Brunswick Town, this trip was especially meaningful. I was invited to attend a ceremony for the unveiling of a new Scottish Immigration Memorial in the state park.
Between 1730 and 1776, over 20,000 Scots and Scots-Irish passed through Brunswick Town, making it their first entry point into America. They brought with them their customs, their Scottish pride, and—depending on their place of origin—their religion (Lowlanders tended to be Presbyterian, while many Highlanders maintained Catholic ties).
Each group had its own story, yet—like the colors of a family tartan—each thread of Scottish heritage has shaped North Carolina’s identity. There were more Scottish settlers in North Carolina than in any other colony, and their descendants (including me—Clan Armstrong and Clan Cohoon/Colquhoun) continue to define the region today.
The moving ceremony featured bagpipes and speeches commemorating Scottish immigration in the area. Look for an upcoming feature where I’ll recap the event and share plans for other Scottish Immigration sites!
Racing the Sunset to Southport As the sun began to dip toward the horizon, I rushed to neighboring Southport for a visit to a spot that has long been on my bucket list – The Indian Trail Tree in Keziah Park. Located in a quiet city park in this riverfront community, the live oak is believed to be over 800 years old. One section of the trunk is distinctively bent—a common practice in Indigenous cultures to serve as a guidepost for water or significant trails.
Southport itself (originally known as Smithville) is packed with Revolutionary War history. It was the site of Fort Johnston, which was burned to the ground on July 19, 1775, by patriots like John Ashe and Cornelius Harnett. That event forced Royal Governor Josiah Martin fully into exile (Read about my visit to the 250th Burning of Fort Johnston event here). Want to plan a Cape Fear Rendezvous in Southport? Be sure to check out my full Southport Guide here!
The Prescription for a Perfect Dinner: Rx Chicken and Oysters After arriving back in Wilmington, I relaxed at the hotel before heading to the popular local haunt, Rx Chicken and Oysters. Housed in the historic Hall’s Pharmacy building, this spot has been a community staple for over thirteen years. Owners Chef James Doss and his wife, Sarah Doss, have cultivated an atmosphere rooted in Eastern North Carolina artistry and hospitality.
From the second I stepped inside, I felt the warmth of community. The bar reminded me of my childhood lunches with my grandmother at our local pharmacy—a sad loss from a bygone era. That old-school “community counter” feel, where you’d chat with neighbors and meet new friends, is revitalized here. As an art lover and landscape painter myself, I was instantly taken by the beautiful coastal-themed art on the walls. I was delighted to learn that Sarah is the artist behind many of the pieces!
Cape Fear Style Farm to Table In speaking with James and Sarah—a couple who exude authentic Southern hospitality—I learned that their mission goes beyond just serving food. They farm most of their own oysters and even spearfish invasive Lionfish. Because Lionfish damage the North Carolina coast, eating them is a delicious solution that helps the local ecology.
What I loved most about the Rx menu is the focus on flavorful simplicity. When it comes to quality fresh NC seafood, the fish should speak for itself. There is nothing better than fresh shrimp effortlessly placed over buttery grits—no sauce or extra fixings needed (a rule my Low Country chef grandmother swore by).
The Verdict: In addition to their “clam to fame” oysters, the fried chicken is amazing, and the dessert menu is not to be missed. If you are looking for the perfect prescription for good eats in Wilmington, look no further.
Rx Warning: The food is highly addictive and repeat dinings may be necessary.
On the way back to the Front Street Inn, I enjoyed a relaxing stroll through Wilmington’s Historic Neighborhoods, many of these houses dating back to late 18th (Federal period) to 19th (Italianate, Victorian and Queen Anne) and beyond. Although I was aware that Wilmington had a historic district, until I took time to meander on foot – I didn’t stop to recognize the jaw dropping beauty and intricate details of these houses. More on Wilmington’s Architecture and History later in this post…
Saturday: Coffee, Art, Cape Fear Vibes, History & Food = The Perfect Day
I kicked off my Saturday with a visit to DRIFT Coffee, a key stop on the Wilmington Coffee Passport. I absolutely loved my Brown Butter Cappuccino and Gluten-Free Granola Bar. (They have a location in Raleigh, too, which I look forward to trying!)
A Morning at the Museum After my caffeine fix, I drove to the Cameron Art Museum (CAM). As many of you know, in addition to American Nomad, I also run an art history and travel blog called Art Expeditions. I have a deep passion for visiting art museums; there is something about art that unifies us. It can be unique and regional, yet speak across time zones, telling stories in color and shapes and introducing us to different epochs.
This was my first time visiting the CAM, and I cannot wait to return! They have a fantastic collection ranging from regional creators to internationally renowned artists like Mary Cassatt, Kehinde Wiley, Andy Warhol, and Miró. I loved just “sitting” with the paintings and allowing them to tell their story. The staff was super friendly, sharing backgrounds on the collection and the artists featured in the gift shop.
Shopping Local I was fortunate that the day I visited, they were hosting a craft fair. I found several awesome Christmas gifts from local artists. It felt good to purchase local and find something I know my family will love under the tree. (Look for a full feature soon about this fabulous museum!)
Boundless: A Tribute to the USCT While visiting the CAM, do not forget to stop by the moving United States Colored Troops (USCT) Memorial, located adjacent to the museum.
The CAM is actually built on the site of The Battle of Forks Road (Feb. 20-21, 1865). This was a significant engagement following the Battle of Fort Fisher, where the USCT played a pivotal role in the Union Army’s ability to force the fall of the Confederacy in the area. While I have ancestors who fought on both sides, I’m grateful for those who gave their all for the preservation of a more perfect Union.
The centerpiece of the park is the Boundless sculpture. It is a testament to the bravery and sacrifice of the over 1,800 United States Colored Troops who engaged in battle right where I was standing.
About the Sculpture: North Carolina artist Stephen Hayes created this life-size work using the likenesses of USCT descendants, Civil War reenactors, and African American military veterans. The names of the soldiers of the 1st, 5th, and 37th USCT regiments are inscribed on the back. It was installed in November 2021 on the very battlefield where these men fought for their freedom.
After a wonderful morning at the CAM, I headed back downtown for more adventures.
Cruising the Cape Fear
Around one o’clock, I grabbed a quick snack at The Front Street Inn before walking two blocks to the Riverfront for a two o’clock excursion with Wilmington Water Tours.
While there are several cruises available, I chose this company for their focus on local ecology and history. During our trip, the Captain explained how Wilmington’s location—twenty-eight miles from the Atlantic—helped save it during the Civil War while cementing its status as a vital port.
Per one legend, I learned that the name “Cape Fear” isn’t just for dramatic effect. When the Richard Grenville expedition passed through in 1585, his crew struggled with hidden sandbars and the shifting Outer Banks (even getting stuck on Frying Pan Shoals). Grenville tried to market the area as “Cape Fair” to paint a rosy picture, but the men who endured the terror of the coast insisted on calling it Cape Fear. (Another account says, later Explorer William Hilton tested out the title Cape Fair, but Cape Fear stuck)
Highlights of the Cruise:
- Eagle Island: Once used for massive rice cultivation.
- Battleship North Carolina: We got incredible views of the ship from the water.
- The Matlock Connection: We learned that Andy Griffith had a serious hot dog addiction while filming Matlock. He would get tired of waiting on the courthouse steps and wander off to his favorite hot dog stand, driving the crew crazy looking for him!
(I had my notebook out the entire time—look for a full feature on this cruise soon!)
Lunch with a View By the end of the tour, hunger set in. Since I had late dinner reservations, I opted for a light lunch at The Pilot House. It’s an easy walk from the boat and offers “wow” views of the river. I paired the blackened grouper with house chips—the perfect lunch combination.
Following my delicious meal, I enjoyed an amble stroll along the Wilmington Riverwalk. In addition to being able to peruse the downtown shops and enjoy stunning Cape Fear River views, the Riverwalk takes you on a journey through Wilmington history, from its Colonial Days to importance as a port city and even historical markers about the Underground Railroad.
As I read about Wilmington’s role in the Underground Railroad, I remember the story of Abraham Galloway, an enslaved person from Wilmington to made his way to freedom and eventually became a state senator in North Carolina from the COR Museum Living History event in October 2025. Read more here
Sunset & The USS North Carolina No matter the time of year, you must spend a few minutes on the Riverfront at sunset. The mix of colors and the fiery sun silhouette against the Battleship North Carolina is jaw-dropping.
A Historic Ride: Springbrook Farms After the city’s holiday lights began to sparkle, I signed up for a popular pastime: a historic carriage ride.
As an animal lover, I admit I’ve felt uncomfortable with carriage rides in heavily trafficked cities. However, Springbrook Farm’s Carriage Company sets itself apart. These are draft horses rescued from slaughter after working on Amish farms in Pennsylvania. Saved from the auction block, they live a relaxed life in nearby Leland, NC.
They work on a rotation to keep their muscle mass up, and the tours help fund the rescue of more horses. The tour doesn’t leave until the horse is fully rested. It was a guilt-free, twenty-minute journey through the quaint streets, learning about the architecture of old Wilmington.
Dinner is “On Point” at PinPoint Wilmington is a true FOODIE destination, and PinPoint Restaurant proves it. One of the first local spots to fully embrace farm-to-table, their menu changes daily based on what local farmers and fishermen provide.
I settled on the mouthwatering steak, and it was delicious—but huge! The portions are generous, so I recommend bringing a friend and ordering a few different dishes to share. From the knowledgeable servers to the locals welcoming me at the next table, the vibe was pure Southern hospitality. Official Website
After dinner, I enjoyed relaxing in my room at The Front Street Inn, reading the Curious Tales of Wilmington by Chris Fonvielle. I highly recommend his books for hidden history in Wilmington area.
Sunday: Architecture Tells a Story
On Sunday morning, after taking time to say “Thanks be to God” for the awesome weekend, I met up with Amanda Leese of Wilmington Walking Tours for her History and Architecture Tour at 10:00 a.m. Conveniently, this tour meets right at the Front Street Inn and takes you on a ninety-minute stroll through Wilmington’s past.
Wilmington boasts eight unique historic districts, with the downtown district spanning over 200 blocks—the largest on the East Coast! What impresses me most is the labeling system: many homes display historic markers color-coded by age (75 years old, over 100 years old, etc.). This brings the streetscape to life, allowing you to learn about the original owners as you walk by. However, while the history starts with the builders, the story continues with the living, breathing people who reside there today. They are making their own memories, proving that this history is worth preserving.
The Mitchell-Anderson House (1738) Our first stop was the Colonial Georgian Mitchell-Anderson House, the oldest standing home in Wilmington. Built in 1738—one year before the city was officially incorporated—it was the home of Edward Mitchell, a carpenter and planter from Charleston. Mitchell was familiar with threats like flooding and fire, so he smartly built his home with brick and a ballast stone foundation. This construction is likely why it survived; sadly, the majority of Wilmington’s Colonial-era homes were lost to fires in the early 1800s.
St. John’s Lodge & The Federal Style Down the street, we learned about the Federal Style, a post-Revolutionary update to the Georgian look. The St. John’s Lodge No. 1 Building was the first permanent home for the Wilmington Masons (built 1803-1805). The first Masonic Charter in Wilmington was in 1754. In the years prior to and during the American Revolution they met at William Hooper’s home on the Masonboro Inlet (named for the Masons) and later Dorsey’s Tavern. They eventually moved into the St. John’s Lodge in 1805. It was designed and built by Joseph Jacobs and Benjamin Jacobs.
To put that age into perspective: while this lodge was being built, the U.S. was negotiating the Louisiana Purchase, and Lewis and Clark were exploring the frontier in Montana. Meanwhile, Wilmington was a bustling hub of merchants and industry. The lodge later moved to Market Street (now a Pizza Parlor) in 1844 and the original Federal became a private residence of the Brown and McKoy families, a tavern (1943-1955) and eventually the original home of the St. John’s Gallery, a forerunner to the Cameron Art Museum (CAM) before finding its current purpose as the Children’s Museum.
Our tour guide, Amanda, did a great job explaining the importance of repurposing historic buildings with integrity—a practice that maintains their character and history while ensuring the structures remain in use for future generations. The Children’s Museum project is an excellent example of how architecture, history, and community intersect in Wilmington.
Another architectural highlight on the tour was the Latimer House, a grand Italianate home that tells the complex story of the Latimer family and the domestic enslaved workers who labored there. The slave dwellings are an important piece of Wilmington’s history. Many enslaved persons working in Wilmington were skilled in a trade relevant to Wilmington’s role as a major port and railroad epicenter. While this piece of history is difficult to comprehend, it is important to honor their memories and look to the errors of the past to build a better tomorrow.
Today, the home houses the Lower Cape Fear Historical Society, a treasure trove for learning about Wilmington’s history. It was interesting to learn that a cousin of mine from the Moore lineage (via Roger Moore up the line), Louis Toomer Moore, was a passionate historian who helped found the society. History truly is alive through the stories we pass on.
The architectural tour also took time to dig into Wilmington’s important role as a railroad center into the mid-1900s, noting the economic pain when the Atlantic Coastline Railroad ultimately left the city. Our guide, Amanda, did not sugarcoat history—sharing the good, the bad, and the ugly. She took time to discuss the darkest time in Wilmington’s history when, in 1898, White Supremacists staged a coup to usurp legally elected Black officials. This led to bloodshed and was pure racism. It is a hard history but an important one to revisit while in Wilmington.
(Look for another post dedicated to Wilmington Architectural History soon. A huge thank you to Amanda for her in-depth knowledge and passion for preservation!)
Book a tour here.
Farewell to Wilmington: Secrets of the Grave
Sadly, my time to say farewell to Wilmington was close at hand. But before leaving for the beach, I took a detour to Oakdale Cemetery. This large, Victorian-era cemetery about two miles from downtown holds the graves of everyone from Civil War soldiers to famous Wilmingtonians like journalist David Brinkley.
One of the most curious souls buried here is “Rebel Rose” Greenhow. An infamous Confederate spy originally from Maryland, her life story plays out like a miniseries. After being expelled from Washington, D.C. for spying on federal officials (she was only released because of her connection to Senator Henry Wilson), she traveled to Europe to campaign for the Confederacy. On her return, she was aboard the blockade runner Condor when it ran aground near Fort Fisher. Ms. Greenhow drowned in the surf, pulled down by the weight of the gold she was carrying for the cause. (The cemetery hosts guided tours periodically—be sure to check their website!)
Rooted in History: Airlie Gardens Ever since I was a little girl visiting the Cape Fear region, or traveling from Beaufort, SC to Savannah, GA, I’ve felt a calm peace around the strength of a Live Oak. The oaks are so tall and sturdy, yet the Spanish Moss and vibrant evergreen leaves possess a gentle elegance that is constantly in motion. Poetically, a live oak is the perfect example of how life should be lived: with deep roots in what matters (faith, hope, love, empathy, resilience), but the flexibility to bend without being shaken.
Airlie Gardens, located on Bradley Creek near Wrightsville Beach, allows visitors to encounter a former plantation site converted into heritage gardens. It helps strengthen the important coastal ecosystem while providing stunning beauty.
The crown jewel here is the Airlie Oak. Its acorn first took root in 1545, when Henry VIII was still King of England and only twenty years after Giovanni da Verrazzano first spotted the Cape Fear. This tree has witnessed Native American history, European exploration, Colonial settlement, the Revolutionary and Civil Wars, World War II, and beyond. Standing in its presence allows you to sit with a living witness to history. If you are quiet enough, you might just hear the stories of the past come to life in the rustling branches. Plan your trip to Airlie here
Sunset at the Edge of the World After Airlie, I headed to the coast. Since my favorite dinner spot, The Oceanic, was packed, I took a detour to Fort Fisher and Carolina Beach State Park to breathe in the salt air and catch the sunset. I also stopped for a beach walk on nearby Kure Beach…salt water heals all wounds – there is something about the ocean that puts things in perspective.
Fort Fisher was key to the Confederacy’s survival; it protected the last major port to fall to the Union. Today, it’s the ideal spot to take in Civil War history or visit the award-winning NC Aquarium at Fort Fisher—a perfect spot for families to explore maritime life.
Nearby, Carolina Beach State Park offers relaxing trails shrouded by longleaf pines. But what puts this park on the map is the Venus Flytrap. This area is one of the only places in the world where they grow natively. Please remember: this is a protected species. You cannot touch or harvest them (cue Little Shop of Horrors warnings!). But for anyone who spent summers in the South, seeing a plant that eats bugs in the wild is pretty cool.
Oceanfront Dining at its FINEST.. It was a little out of the way, but I circled back to Wrightsville Beach for dinner at The Oceanic. The food and views are worth the extra drive! Where else can you dine right on an ocean pier? They have great options for gluten-free diners, including broiled shrimp and fresh catches. I ordered the special—broiled grouper with asparagus and rice—and it was the perfect end to the trip.
Thanks for joining me on my weekend itinerary recap of Wilmington! Don’t forget to subscribe for upcoming features on the Cape Fear’s history, fun itinerary ideas, and more.
Ready to plan your Cape Fear Adventure? I recommend the following sites to help map out your journey:
Wilmington CVB Website – Your go-to resource for all things Wilmington and the Lower Cape Fear Region…check out their helpful itineraries and guides to make your adventure out of this world.
Historic Site Links:
- Burgwin Wright House
- Bellamy Mansion
- Latimer House
- Moore’s Creek Bridge
- Brunswick Town and Fort Anderson
Guided Tours:
- Outlander in Cape Fear and other Historical Tours with Hunter Ingram
- Springbrook Carriage Tours
- Wilmington Walking Tour
- Black Cat Ghost Tour
- Wilmington Water Cruises
- Airlie Gardens (self-guided)
Restaurants Featured:
Lodging: I highly recommend the Front Street Inn – it is conveniently located with beautifully appointed rooms and an amazing coffee bar. Book your stay here
Hit the coffee trail…I have more Wilmington Coffee Spots to try next time, and can’t wait to return to these favorites:
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Hi, I’m Adele Lassiter, the travel enthusiast behind American Nomad Traveler. This is where I share my love for history, cool museums, art, and travel tips. When I’m not writing, I’m a singer-songwriter with a passion for Americana music. You can find my new album here: adelelassiter.bandcamp.com
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