Where the River Meets the Sea: Discovering Southport, NC

Just forty minutes south of Wilmington, where the mighty Cape Fear River spills into the Atlantic, lies the charming town of Southport, North Carolina. Here, Spanish Moss-draped live oaks shade centuries-old streets that have stood witness to pivotal moments in American history, from the Revolution to the Civil War. Southport is the kind of laid-back seaside town where you can get lost in cool local shops, sip coffee at java joints like Southport Coffee, and indulge in the freshest seafood.

In this edition of American Nomad Traveler, we’re diving into the best of Southport, from its historic haunts and riverfront fun to must-try dining and shopping spots.

Starting Your Southport Adventure:

Historic Fort Johnston at Southport NC – played an important role in North Carolina’s Revolutionary War history

I recommend beginning your Southport adventure at the Visitor’s Center and North Carolina Maritime Museum. Conveniently located in the heart of downtown, this gem is housed in the historic officer quarters of Fort Johnston, right on the banks of the Cape Fear River.

The friendly and knowledgeable staff are a fantastic resource, ready to provide information on everything from the ferry to Bald Head Island to the hidden gems only locals know. The center also hosts a captivating history museum on-site.

Here, you can trace over 250 years of history, from the days of Fort Johnston to modern-day Southport. Film buffs will love the exhibits dedicated to movies filmed in the area, like I Know What You Did Last Summer. It’s a great reminder of the region’s bustling film scene.

The museum also features a fascinating exhibit on Southport’s famous Fourth of July celebration. As an NC native, I’ve heard through the “sweet tea hotline” that Southport’s parade is the best in the state. And after touring the historical exhibit, I’m inclined to agree! Southport has hosted a massive, patriotic celebration—complete with floats, music, and a flotilla—for over 200 years.

The NC Maritime Museum itself is a treasure trove of cultural and natural history. Learn about prehistoric Native American tribes and even see a 2,000-year-old canoe. You’ll also find Revolutionary War and Civil War artifacts, a testament to the area’s long and important history as a fishing and boating center. Southport continues to thrive today as an important port and fishing district, balanced perfectly with its vibrant tourism industry. I recommend dedicating a few hours at the museum (1-3 hours).  

After touring the Maritime Museum, Southport is your oyster, you can stroll the quaint downtown streets lined with coastal themed to antique shops, grab a coffee or ice cream, or catch one of the famed ‘Salubrious Breezes of Southport’ from the City Pier.  

Majestic Live Oaks line the streets of Historic Southport – each witnesses of the city’s dramatic past

For me, the greatest draw to Southport is its dynamic history. For thousands of years, this very spot where the Cape Fear River meets the Atlantic has been a hub of activity—first as a home for Native American tribes and ample fishing grounds, then visited by French, English, and Spanish explorers. By the early 1700s, it became a regional commerce center and a crucial shipping hub for neighboring Brunswick Town.

That importance made it a target. In the 1740s, during a dispute between England and France, the Cape Fear was vulnerable to attacks from Spanish and French ships. To create a buffer, Governor Gabriel Johnston ordered the construction of Fort Johnston in 1744. Unfortunately, it wasn’t completed in time to defend Brunswick Town from a Spanish attack in 1748. Read more about this terrifying attack on Brunswick Town here.

Historical exhibit about the Spanish raid at Brunswick Town State Historic State

In the years leading up to the American Revolution, the Cape Fear River region became a hotbed of patriotic fervor. Locals like Cornelius Harnett, John Ashe, and Robert Howe—along with my own ancestors, the Moores and Smiths—stood up to British taxation policies.

The tension reached a fever pitch in November 1765. When a ship carrying tax stamps arrived upriver at Brunswick Town, locals refused to let the cargo off the boat. This armed resistance, though no shots were fired, was one of the first against the Stamp Act in the colonies. It was just the beginning of mounting tensions that culminated in a fiery conflict at Fort Johnston (present-day Southport) on July 19th.

Living History Day at Fort Johnston on July 19, 2025 – Governor Martin with British Regulars and a Patriot Militaman

The Fall of Governor Martin Royal Governor Josiah Martin fled the colonial capital in New Bern for the perceived safety of Fort Johnston on May 29, 1775. Unfortunately, the fort offered little protection. It was poorly equipped with artillery and low on gunpowder, and within a week, half of his soldiers had abandoned their posts.

Concerned about an attack from the local Patriot militia, Martin took what artillery he could and fled to the HMS Cruizer on July 13th. Just six days later, on July 19th, Harnett, Ashe, and Howe, along with 500 Whig militia, seized the fort and burned it to the ground while Martin watched helplessly from aboard the Cruizer.

Governor Martin

A Governor Without a Colony For months, Martin lived aboard the Cruizer, a governor without a colony. He pleaded with Parliament for military assistance to stop the Patriot militia and regain control of North Carolina. To bolster his forces, Martin found allies among the Scottish Highlanders who had settled in the Cross Creek (Fayetteville) area. Many of these Loyalists, including prominent families like the MacDonalds, had sworn an oath of allegiance to the Crown after receiving land grants. For them, loyalty was a matter of honor and a desire to protect the prosperity they had found in their new home.

Martin’s plan to use these Loyalist militias alongside British regulars fell apart in February 1776 at the Battle of Moore’s Creek Bridge near Wilmington. The decisive Patriot victory not only foiled his plans but also solidified North Carolina’s commitment to independence, paving the way for the Halifax Resolves in April 1776. Martin would later move to New York and eventually return to England, never to regain control of the colony he once governed.

Read more about The Burning of Fort Johnston in our Liberty Trails Series, when I visited the Fort for the 250th anniversary of The Burning of Fort Johnston on July 19th 2025.

Out of the Ashes – Fort Johnston’s Rebirth and the Rise of Smithville (aka Southport)

Following the American Revolution, the community of Smithville formed near Fort Johnston, which began to be rebuilt in 1790 (completed in 1809). Many of these new residents had once lived in nearby Brunswick Town, a former North Carolina Capital City that had been burned to the ground by British forces in 1776. Brunswick Town was never rebuilt, with the population migrating to Wilmington and forming Smithville. Smithville is named after my Fifth Great Uncle Benjamin Smith, a distinguished Revolutionary War patriot who served for a time as General George Washington’s Aide de Camp. He was later Governor of North Carolina. Smith gave part of his land to the town and also served on the County Commission. Smith and his wife Sarah Dry were passionate about helping those in need and supporting public education. They actually died bankrupt, having given most of their fortune to both the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill and other charitable causes.

During the early years of America leading up to the Civil War, this area was tied both to fishing and also early tourism. In the Civil War, Smithville and Fort Johnston were a strategic location on the Cape Fear to help blockade runners and support nearby Fort Fisher and Fort Anderson (which was a fort built near the ruins of Brunswick Town – now a NC State Historic Site). The Union took control of the Fort in January 1865.

Following the Civil War, Smithville changed its name to Southport in 1887 to promote itself as a viable port for trade. Railroad and shipping along with fishing industries continued to grow as well as tourism. Today Southport’s prime location on the Cape Fear River, right next door to the beautiful beaches of Brunswick County NC like Bald Head Island, Oak Island, Ocean Isle, etc., as well its charming architecture and historical roots, has turned it into a popular vacation retreat.

Fun Things to Do:

Travel through History…

Join the Revolution at At Fort Johnston… Here you can immerse yourself in the rich history of the Revolutionary War and Civil War. This location is also home to the North Carolina Maritime Museum and Southport Visitor Center, offering stunning vistas and cool breezes off the Cape Fear River.

Visit the Old Brunswick County Jail: Visit the Old Brunswick County Jailhouse: Located on the corner of Nash and Rhett Streets, this museum allows you to “live the hard knock life,” at least for an afternoon. Built in 1904 after a previous jail was destroyed by a hurricane and another by fire, it was in use until the mid-1970s before becoming a museum in the 1980s. A fun fact: Sissy Spacek was “imprisoned” here during the filming of the movie Crimes of the Heart. This is a great family activity when in Southport! A visit to the Old Jail includes a guided tour conducted by knowledgeable docents. Kids will enjoy the museum with special activities designed just for them.

I love the Cape Fear views framed by the mystical live oaks draped with Spanish Moss

Old Smithville Burying Grounds: Pay your respects to the buried at the Old Smithville Burying Grounds, where many of the early residents of Brunswick County are buried including members of the Smith family and other important patriots.  This is a somber and peaceful place to reflect on history among gravestones protected under the veil of centuries old live oaks.

St. Phillip’s Church Ruins at Brunswick Town

Tour Historic Brunswick Town and Fort Anderson: Tour Brunswick Town and Fort Anderson State Historic Site: Once a capital of North Carolina and one of the busiest Southern ports outside of Charleston, Brunswick Town is a place steeped in history. Founded by the Moore family, it was a bustling port that faced attacks from pirates and the Spanish. However, it was the town’s patriotic fervor and resistance to The Stamp Act that led to its being burned by British troops in 1776. Today, you can tour the colonial foundations of the site and see artifacts recovered over the years.

During the Civil War, Fort Anderson was built over the abandoned ruins of Brunswick Town. This Confederate fort’s earthworks now stand in a serene riverside setting. The combination of colonial and Civil War history and colorful exhibits will be long remembered by visitors. Check out my blog about Brunswick Town here

Ocean View at Fort Fisher

Fort Fisher Historic Park and Aquarium

Just a short distance from where the Cape Fear River meets the Atlantic Ocean, you’ll find Fort Fisher Historic Park. This significant Civil War fort was a crucial Confederate stronghold until its capture by Union forces in January 1865.

Today, this popular state park offers a scenic oceanfront trail (note: swimming is not permitted due to rocky cliffs and rapids). You can explore the remains of the fort, which features a world-class Civil War museum.

Ft Fisher Civil War Trenches

Next door, the Fort Fisher Aquarium is a fun and educational experience for the entire family. You can learn about local marine life and conservation efforts, making it a perfect complement to a day of historical exploration.

Take the Ferry to Bald Head Island:

Take the ferry to Bald Head Island: Bald Head is a scenic island located just across the Cape Fear River from downtown Southport. As a car-free island, visitors take a passenger ferry from Southport. Once on the island, you can explore by foot, bike, or golf cart.

View of Old Baldy from Oak Island

Bald Head is home to the Old Baldy Lighthouse, which dates to 1817 and is the oldest standing lighthouse in North Carolina. Given the treacherous shoals and shallow waters in the area, the first lighthouse on the island was built in 1794 by Benjamin Smith, who once owned the island (then known as Smith’s Island). That original lighthouse fell into disrepair due to erosion. In 1817, the current lighthouse was built. While it was decommissioned in the 1930s, it remains a beloved symbol of the region’s maritime history and stands as a sentinel over the Cape Fear. Old Baldy is one of several lighthouses in the region, including the nearby Oak Island Lighthouse.

Visitors can climb the 108 steps to the top of the lighthouse for a panoramic view of the island and Cape Fear River estuary.  Next door you can explore the Smith Island Museum of History, which is housed in the replica of a lighthouse keeper’s cottage

Information about Bald Head Island Ferry


Spend a Day at Oak Island and Visit The Oak Island Lighthouse: From Southport, you’re close to a number of great beaches, from Wrightsville near Wilmington to Ocean Isle. One of my favorite excursions, though, is to Oak Island and its towering lighthouse. Built in the 1950s, this lighthouse has long served as a guardian of the Atlantic. Oak Island itself is a laid-back beach town with charming local restaurants and seaside shops. Plan your Oak Island Lighthouse visit here.

Cape Fear and Southport Pier

Take a Cruise from Southport – Southport Water Cruises provide a fun and scenic way to enjoy ocean breezes. Enjoy a scenic tour of the harbor, including dolphin sightings and other wildlife, along with sunsets that rival any Monet painting.

Enjoy the shade and listen to the stories of the Indian Trail Oak, a Live Oak nestled in Southport’s Keziah Park that is believed to be 500-800 years old. Oh the stories this Live Oak can share – from hurricanes to Native American life to Colonists, Revolutions and more.

Shop and Dine in historic Southport:

Southport’s historic district is lined with cute gift shops where you can find fun coastal clothing or discover vintage antiques.  

Kids and adults will love Bull Frog Corner where you can whet your sweet tooth with countless candy selections and ice cream!

I always stop by Waterfront Gifts for sea side souvenirs, Duck, Duck Goose for coastal whimsy and Lantas for artistic gifts.  Southport Trading has a wide variety of coastal inspired style options perfect for a day at the beach.  For a complete list of area shops click here.

Destination Coffee:

Southport’s cozy coffee spots will mocha your day with their flavorful, rich coffee roasts and fresh-baked goods. I highly recommend the popular local chain Port City Java, which was founded in Wilmington nearly thirty years ago, as well as the wonderful Southport Coffee Company. I frequent both when I’m in town! At Southport Coffee, be sure to try their award-winning hand-roasted blends, or cool off on a hot summer day with one of their delicious smoothies.

Southport Coffee Shop

Wine down at Silver Coast Winery: Located in both Ocean Isle and Southport. The Southport location offers tastings of their award-winning wines, as well as craft beer tastings. Enjoy our eclectic gift shop and art gallery while sipping your favorite wine or craft beer in a relaxing setting.  Their wines have garnered over 400 national and international awards. Website

Southport’s Catch of the Day – Here are a few of my favorite local Southport Eateries…

  • Oliver’s on Cape Fear: Waterfront dining with gorgeous views couple with delicious fresh seafood and steaks.
  • Fishy Fishy Cafe: delicious seafood and Carolina style comfort food
  • Moore Street Oyster Bar: Indulge in an extensive selection of oysters, shucked to order and served on the half-shell, accompanied by a variety of tantalizing sauces and toppings.
  • Ports of Call Bistro: Warm bistro offering Mediterranean, Continental & American entrees & small plates, plus a full bar.
  • Provision Company: A family tradition for over 30 years. Serving great food and incredible views with southern hospitality on Southport’s Waterfront.
  • Frying Pan Restaurant: Features delicious Carolina seafood with waterfront views

Where to Stay:

Southport has several chain hotels as well as cozy bed and breakfasts sure to charm any lodger.

The Inn at Southport: a cozy 1950s inn that’s been updated for the 21st century with easy access to all Southport has to offer. A wonderful spot in Southport.

Southport Carriage Inn: Experience the perfect blend of comfort, charm, and thoughtful amenities at this pet-friendly bed and breakfast in the heart of Southport. The Carriage House Inn is the only downtown Southport inn that welcomes small-breed dogs, making it an ideal choice for travelers exploring the historic coastal town with their furry companions. Whether you’re planning a romantic escape, a family vacation, or a weekend retreat, their inviting guest rooms and relaxing common areas ensure your stay is both memorable and stress-free.

Captain Newton’s Inn: Cozy guestrooms at Captain Newton’s Inn open to a delightful Southport-styled living and dining room, where guests are invited to mingle and enjoy our Southern hospitality. Experience why our inn is a beloved destination in Southport. We offer historic and comfortable accommodations, with three distinct and well-appointed rooms, each featuring a private bath. All guests enjoy amenities such as wireless Internet, cable TV, and an outdoor pool. The inn is just a one-block walk from the Intracoastal Waterway and is located across the street from the historic Indian Oak Tree park, where you can find plenty of spots to swing, rock, and simply relax.

Ready for your Southport Adventure? Here are some helpful resources to help plan your adventure:

Official Southport Exploration Guide

NC Brunswick Beaches

Southport Historical Society – Local Historical Society with tons of great resources about Southport and the surrounding area

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