A Weekend in Charming Abingdon VA: Exploring the Virginia Highlands Festival and more

Tucked away in the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains of Southwestern Virginia, Abingdon is one of my favorite places to explore. Right off I-81 and less than twenty minutes east of Bristol, TN/VA, Abingdon is a crossroads of culture, embodying the perfect blend of mountain serenity, small-town charm, delicious food, arts and culture, and outdoor activities—including access to the Virginia Creeper Trail.

History lovers will delight in time-traveling through the region’s rich historical sites, from the legend of Daniel Boone and Wolf Hills to Abingdon’s pivotal role in the Revolutionary War as a muster site for Colonel William Campbell and several hundred Overmountain patriots. These patriots made their way from Abingdon to Sycamore Shoals in Tennessee and onwards to Kings Mountain, SC, to defeat British Major Patrick Ferguson on October 7th, 1780. This pivotal patriot victory turned the tide for the patriots in the south, helping to pave a path toward the victory at Yorktown, VA, on October 19th, 1781.

While I love to visit Abingdon in any season, I make the pilgrimage to the “highlands” every late July to early August during the annual Virginia Highlands Festival. The festival was established in 1949 by Robert Porterfield (who also founded the world-renowned Barter Theatre in Abingdon in the 1930s). Porterfield had a vision of celebrating Southwestern Virginia’s rich tapestry of arts and culture and bringing the community together through art, music, food, history, outdoor experiences, and connection.

Since its roots 77 years ago, the Virginia Highlands Festival has grown into one of the region’s most popular events, bringing in visitors not just from Southwestern Virginia, but from around the country to enjoy beautiful mountain views and a jam-packed itinerary of events.

I am a musician and art lover who loves checking out regional festivals, and there is nothing quite like the Virginia Highlands Festival. The festival spans almost every genre, with over 200 events covering multiple categories. Everyone can find something fun to do at the Highlands Festival. The best part? Most of the events are free or very affordable. Whether you’re solo, on a girls’ trip, or with your family, you can tailor your itinerary during festival week to fit your interests. Even better—the amazing Abingdon hospitality. Every time I visit, I feel as though I’m coming home and am part of the family.

In this post, I’ll share snapshots from my Virginia Highlands adventures and my tips for planning your Abingdon getaway. It is a place you’ll want to return to time and again.

Friday, July 24, 2026

After finishing work at my day job, I hit the road with a playlist of Virginia Blue Ridge–inspired tunes from The Crooked Road.

The Crooked Road is a 330-mile driving trail through the mountains of Southwest Virginia that connects ten major venues and over sixty affiliated venues and festivals that embody the heartbeat of Virginia’s rich music scene. Abingdon is known as a hub for music, along with nearby Bristol (the Birthplace of Country Music and home of the 1927 Bristol Sessions). It makes sense that this region, with its place on the Great Wagon Road of the 18th–19th centuries, would be where musical roots run deep. As an Americana-inspired musician, I draw a lot of inspiration for my own writing style from the artists in this area.

The drive from Raleigh to Abingdon is only about four hours and passes through some scenic spots along the way, including Pilot Mountain State Park near Mt. Airy (a.k.a. Mayberry, Andy Griffith’s hometown). If you have time, I also recommend a quick pit stop in Wytheville. I love their charming downtown and always stop for coffee at The Grind. Wytheville is the birthplace of Edith Bolling Wilson, and you can visit her house museum there.

Another cool detour along the way is Marion, only about thirty minutes east of Abingdon, which is home to the Art Deco–style Francis Marion Hotel, the Lincoln Theatre, and Hungry Mother State Park. The Highlands Festival usually has a hiking meetup in Marion.

On this trip, I was on a mission to reach Abingdon ASAP so I could arrive in time to grab a delicious meal.

The Creeper’s End Lodging – Check “Inn” to Hospitality

I first stayed at Creeper’s End Lodging in July 2025 and fell in love with this cozy retreat. Creeper’s End is only steps away from the popular rails-to-trails hiking/biking path, the Virginia Creeper Trail. While the Creeper Trail suffered a lot of damage during Hurricane Helene, the section near Abingdon and Creeper’s End is open for recreation. The entire trail is scheduled to reopen in 2027!

• Book your reservation here (and tell them American Nomad sent you 🙂 You’ll love their hospitality and convenience to downtown sites, and easy driving distance to area activities.

While the rooms exude charm and comfort, what truly sets this inn apart is the first-rate hospitality. Last July, during my first visit, the owners, the Daltons, were kind enough to give me a personal tour of Abingdon and provide the resources I needed to gather research on Abingdon’s history. Add in the on-site innkeeper, Barbara, and you’ll be blown away. She goes out of her way to ensure your stay is perfect and that you have everything you need. It’s this genuine kindness and hospitality that keeps me coming back to Creepers End.

I love the fact that it is also only steps from downtown attractions like the Barter Theatre, Courthouse Hill, and a multitude of restaurants. You can truly park and walk to most of Abingdon’s downtown activities from here.

On this trip, I was lucky enough to have my history-loving travel friend, Libby, meet me for the weekend from Richmond. This was her first time visiting Abingdon in over a decade, and I was excited to show her around town and explore all the happenings at the Virginia Highlands Festival.

Barbara provided us with copies of The Highlander. This fantastic magazine provides a comprehensive schedule of the over 200 events at the Virginia Highlands Festival, as well as features about the town’s history, culture, and local volunteers who make the event possible. I was thrilled to see my fellow history-loving content creators, the Shew family (Daniel Shew – The Old House Agent), on the cover in circa-1776 attire. The photo was taken at the Cummings Cabin, a historic building now located in Sinking Springs Cemetery that was once owned by the “Fightin’ Parson” Cummings—an early Presbyterian minister in the area whose fiery sermons helped inspire the Overmountain Men as they mustered in Abingdon on September 24th, 1780 (more on that later in our journey) before heading to defeat ‘The Bulldog’ Major Patrick Ferguson at Kings Mountain, SC on October 7th, 1780. This patriot victory helped turn the tide of the Revolutionary War in the south. Stay tuned for more Kings Mountain history later in our adventure.

Libby and I struggled to narrow down our itinerary for Saturday. There was so much to see and limited time. We decided to discuss our plans for Saturday over a delicious meal. Abingdon has a fantastic foodie scene, with tons of delicious restaurants depending on your palate. One of my go-tos every time I visit is Dwayne & Co. They have a fabulous menu that offers something for everyone at a great value. Libby and I are both gluten-free, and I love that Dwayne & Co. provides delicious homemade gluten-free items, including mouthwatering desserts.

I ended up trying their barbecue chicken with grilled veggies and a baked potato. I also opted for a “mocktail” version of a blueberry mule.

Though we were both stuffed from the delicious meal, Libby and I couldn’t resist a gluten-free dessert. Dwayne & Co. has several gluten-free options daily, including tortes and cheesecake. We split the Oatmeal Cookie Sandwich with homemade creamed icing. YUM.

Abingdon’s restaurants really embrace the farm-to-table movement, as the region has so many amazing local farms. You can truly taste the freshness in the food.

As we left the restaurant, a light drizzle was falling. As we made our way through the rain, I pointed out a historical marker dedicated to Daniel Boone. Legend has it that in 1760, Daniel Boone and his dogs were attacked by a pack of wolves as he camped at the spring near the cave. While this is a great yarn of a story, it actually is pure lore. While Daniel Boone did pass through Abingdon—traveling up from his base in the Yadkin Valley near present-day Wilkes County, NC, in the 1760s and 1770s—the name “Wolf Hills” dates back to the 1750s. According to historian Walter Jenny of the Historical Society of Washington County, VA, the area was known as Wolf Hills as early as 1752, when Thomas Walker explored the Wolf Hill Tract.

In 1749, the Loyal Land Company—consisting of forty-six men, including Dr. Thomas Walker—was formed and awarded 800,000 acres of land to promote western colonization. In 1750, Walker and his crew surveyed much of the tract, including the area of present-day Abingdon. Walker obtained a patent for 6,780 acres in 1752, which was referenced as the Wolf Hill Tract (July 14, 1752). So much history everywhere you walk in Abingdon!

The historic cave sits behind a beautiful Greek Revival home featuring Gothic elements like icicle lattice work, which was built in 1857 by Abingdon businessman Adam Hickman. The spring that Boone most likely camped near runs through nearby Plumb Alley to what is now Wolf Hills Coffee, a.k.a. the “Spring House.” Everywhere you go in Abingdon, history and lore are underfoot, waiting to be explored.

Fun fact: In 1949, Alice Brown Hilton, wife of the British author James Hilton (I love his books Lost Horizon and Goodbye, Mr. Chips), purchased the house. The Hiltons were longtime friends of Robert Porterfield, founder of the Barter Theatre and the Virginia Highlands Festival. They allowed the home to be used to house Barter actors, including future Academy Award winners like Gregory Peck, Ned Beatty, Patricia Neal, and Ernest Borgnine.

The Barter Theatre

Unfortunately, on this trip, we weren’t able to take in a show at the world-renowned Barter Theatre, which has been an anchor for culture and the arts in Abingdon since 1933. The Barter shows how creativity, hope, and resiliency, even in tough times, can lead to amazing things.

The Barter Theatre was started by Saltville native Robert Porterfield in the midst of the Great Depression. Porterfield had been a successful actor in New York, but with the dark days of the Depression, work in the theater was tight. So, he hatched a plan: he and twenty-two fellow actor friends from New York moved to Abingdon to form The Barter Theatre. The Barter’s building was originally Sinking Spring Church, before the Sons of Temperance Theatre Company used it for drama in the late 1800s; it was then used as a municipal building before The Barter moved in.

Porterfield recognized that while locals might not have cash, they could pay admission with surplus crops, livestock, or other goods. The actors could use these to feed the crew, while those who could afford admission could pay their way. Why should anyone be unable to attend theater because of the Depression? This was a win-win for the actors and the community, and it became a national phenomenon.

Even top playwrights and actors of the day lined up to bring their talents to The Barter. Playwrights like Tennessee Williams and Thornton Wilder agreed to be paid in Virginia hams in lieu of royalties, while vegetarian playwright George Bernard Shaw requested spinach! Over the years, The Barter has consistently attracted top-tier talent, including Academy Award winners like Gregory Peck and Patricia Neal, as well as my favorite “love-to-hate” Seinfeld character, Newman (played by Wayne Knight).

The Barter is the longest-running professional equity theater in the US and continues to offer top-quality, affordable theater for all ages. I immensely enjoyed Always… Patsy Cline during my last visit in April 2026.

Stay tuned for a full feature on The Barter soon!

Saturday: July 25th, 2026 

Friday’s rainstorm had cleared by Saturday morning, revealing scattered clouds and blue skies.  The temperate in the low eighties, was heaven compared to the sweltering 98 degree temps we’ve been having in Raleigh.  

Libby and I kicked our our day with coffee at one of my favorite #destination-coffee haunts, Wolf Hills Coffee.  Located near historic courthouse hill in the historic William King Springhouse building, Wolf Hills has the perfect blend for any coffee lover.  Their ethically sourced single origin beans are roasted on site.  They offer a variety of house and seasonal blends from light to dark roasts. They also have curated teas, and pastries, including gluten free options.  At night, the coffee bar doubles with spirited mocktails and cocktails.  

Wolf Hills’s walls feature impressive works of local artists, as well as an adjoining book store called ‘The Book Cellar.’ It is truly a ‘third place,’ where you can enjoy a cup of coffee, get lost in a good book, chat with friends and even hear live music on select days. They also have fun special events like karaoke, a Mrs. Roper Three’s Company Romp (where you dress like Mrs. Roper or your favorite Three’s Company character) and Author Talks…

I ordered a ‘Toasted Marshmallow’ Latte, and after a few sips had officially entered the land of the living. Libby also enjoyed a delicious latte and a gluten free cookie.  It was relaxing to take in the atmosphere as you could smell the coffee roasting in the background. Libby and I admired the talent of local artists, which featured scenes of local churches to comical cats atop the Blue Ridge Mountains. 

Destination Coffee: Abingdon

Abingdon is known for its coffee scene. Here are a few other #destinationcoffee recommendations in Abingdon:

• Girl and the Raven: In addition to their house roasted coffee, they have a fantastic menu featuring everything from breakfast comfort staples like biscuits and gravy to lunch specials, soups and burgers. They have gluten free options too.

•  Krystal’s at the Appalachian Trading Post: A great spot to grab a latte and pastry (gluten free options on most days like the Ube Bar)

• Camella’s Remember When Tea Parlor: House in a Victorian era home on Main Street steps from Courthouse Hill, this lovely tea room and shop is a must stop in Abingdon. In addition to the tea, I love their lavender tea.
• Rendezvous International Cafe: A bit of Europa in Abingdon.  They serve up one of my favorite Italian coffees, LavAzza, alongside of sweet and savory crepes, lattes, espresso, artisanal desserts…love stopping her for brunch or even dinner before a show at the Barter Theatre

Get to Know William King – ‘King of the Salt Mines’

As we left Wolf Hills, we stopped briefly next door at the historic William King Brick House, which dates to circa 1803. This home is the oldest brick house in Abingdon and was a marvel of architecture in its day. It was built by William King, an Irish immigrant who came to Abingdon in 1784 at the age of only fifteen. King’s life is a true rags-to-riches story. He had a keen mind for business and established several successful mercantile supply stores along the Great Wagon Road, which serviced travelers as they made their way up and down from Pennsylvania into North Carolina and Tennessee. In the 1790s, he made a fortune after purchasing 150 acres in Saltville, Virginia, and producing salt. By the time King passed away in 1808, he had amassed a fortune of one million dollars (the equivalent of twenty million dollars today!).

What makes King truly stand out, however, is that for all his wealth, he never forgot his humble roots. He remained active throughout his life in giving back to the community of Abingdon, southwestern Virginia, and northeastern Tennessee. He served on the board of the Abingdon Male Academy, and in his will, he left a gift of $10,000.00…or “lands to that amount,” to build a permanent home for the Academy. The land chosen was on a hill overlooking Abingdon, adjacent to Sinking Spring Cemetery, where King is buried.

The Abingdon Male Academy opened in 1824 and thrived until 1861, when the Civil War suspended classes. The academy building, along with many others in Abingdon, was used as a barracks and a makeshift hospital for Confederate troops.

Because of the severe wear and tear during the war, the Academy was rebuilt in 1872, and the Abingdon Male Academy operated there until 1905, when it was leased to the Town of Abingdon. The current structure dates to 1913 and housed public schools until 1973, when it became the permanent home of the William King Museum of Art, which we’ll visit in a bit.

On the Trail of Lewis and Clark in Abingdon

The William King Brick House—originally named “Grace Hill” by King—hosted none other than famed explorer William Clark of the Lewis and Clark Expedition (1804–1806). Clark, who was living in St. Louis, Missouri, was traveling along the Great Wagon Road en route to Fincastle, Virginia, in 1809 to marry his fiancée, Julia Hancock.

The home was beautifully restored by the Dalton family and is featured on the Virginia Highlands Festival Historic Homes Tour. I was fortunate enough to get a private tour in July 2025. I’m a big fan of Lewis and Clark, having lived in Bozeman, Montana, and followed the path of the Corps of Discovery from St. Louis to Idaho (I’m still missing the Oregon stops, but I’ll get there eventually!).

Lewis and Clark, along with many members of the Corps of Discovery Expedition, were Virginians by birth. The Virginia Lewis and Clark Legacy Trail honors the Commonwealth’s ties to Lewis, Clark, and the Corps of Discovery. The Legacy Trail is a driving and “stop-to-experience” trail along the Great Valley Road (Rt. 11 and I-81) from Bristol to Charlottesville, before heading into Culpeper County and eastward to King and Queen and Caroline Counties. These routes follow and honor Lewis and Clark’s documented travels in the Commonwealth, their ancestral history, and the people and places they visited.

• Plan your Virginia Lewis and Clark Legacy Expedition here

Abingdon was conveniently situated along the Great Road, with spur routes coming in from Tennessee up toward Missouri. As a result, many famous travelers—including Lewis and Clark—passed through this region as they made their way from St. Louis to Charlottesville and Washington.

Both Lewis and Clark passed through here in 1806–1807 on their return from the famed Corps of Discovery Expedition as they headed east to report their findings to President Thomas Jefferson. Lewis and Mandan leaders from North Dakota passed through in late 1806. Clark followed separately, reaching Fincastle, VA, by way of Abingdon to visit his future wife, Julia Hancock. He passed through Abingdon again on his way from St. Louis for their wedding in January 1808. Later, on another eastward journey from St. Louis on November 12th, 1809, Clark spent the night at the William King brick house.

As I think about their return journey after two years of traveling from St. Louis to the Pacific Ocean, I can only imagine the surprise and celebration that greeted them upon their return. It wasn’t as if they could text Jefferson real-time updates like we can today!

To honor the memory of Clark’s 1809 stay in Abingdon at King’s brick house, a streetside historical marker was installed by the Virginia Lewis and Clark Legacy Trail during the July 2025 Virginia Highlands Festival.

The homeowners, Dave and Jill Dalton (who also own Creeper’s End Lodging), even hosted a historical talk in the home featuring Williamsburg’s official Thomas Jefferson interpreter, Kurt Smith. Smith has become a popular fixture each year at the Highlands Festival. While Jefferson didn’t make it as far as Abingdon in real life, no doubt he’d approve of the Highlands Festival and its commitment to history, the arts, and exploring nature.

I want to express my appreciation to the Daltons for giving me a tour of the home and the basement area where Clark likely spent the night. Abingdon is truly a prime destination for history trekking, no matter the season.

Exploring Abingdon – A Walker’s Paradise

What I love about Abingdon is how walkable the downtown area is. Staying at Creeper’s End, you are steps away from all the main downtown attractions and only a short drive from other area sites like the William King Museum of Art (WKMA) and the Southwest Virginia Cultural Center & Marketplace.

Libby and I spent the next hour having fun exploring downtown Abingdon on foot, perusing the tents of arts and crafts vendors, and touring the historic Martha Washington Inn.

Every where you turn, you’ll stop in ‘awe’ at the mix of beautiful architecture and mix of charming shops.

St. Thomas Episcopal, Sinking Springs Presbyterian, Railroad Heritage to Arts – Abingdon is a place to pause, reflect and explore

A Moment at ‘The Martha’

The Martha is a history lover’s retreat! This elegant hotel is steeped in rich tradition, where every nook exudes the charm of a bygone era without sacrificing modern conveniences. It’s a place where the helter-skelter pace of the 9-to-5 life takes a back seat to relaxing in the lobby under a portrait of Martha Washington, sipping a cocktail, and reading a good book.

• Official website for The Martha Washington Inn

Fun fact: Abingdon was named after the ancestral home of Martha Washington’s family in England. Abingdon, established in 1778, is the county seat of Washington County (established in December 1776 out of Fincastle County) and named after her husband, General George Washington. Both Abingdon and Washington County were established in the midst of the Revolutionary War, demonstrating the strong patriot sentiment in this area.

The Martha’s story begins in 1832, when General Francis Preston, a hero of the War of 1812, built the home for his large family at a cost of $15,000. It remained in the Preston family until 1858, when it was purchased to be transformed into a top college for young women: Martha Washington College. The college served as a place of higher learning for over seven decades (opening its doors in 1860) and survived through the Civil War. As you walk the halls of the hotel today, you can feel the spirit of the past, with memorabilia adorning the walls from the Martha’s years as a girls’ college.

While Abingdon was largely removed from major Civil War battles, General George Stoneman’s Raid passed right through town in December 1864. There are many legends and historical records surrounding the Civil War years at “The Martha,” which I’m looking forward to researching and sharing in future posts.

Today, the hotel is renowned for its gracious accommodations, luxurious spa, and popular Sisters Restaurant.

• Interesting History: Abingdon was the childhood home of Confederate General Joseph Johnston.

Along the Crooked Road at Delta Blues:

Hunger pangs set in around twelve thirty and I suggested we grab lunch at one of my favorite Abingdon eateries, Delta Blues, where you can enjoy award-winning BBQ and soulful sides like collard greens, fried corn, potato salad.  Delta Blues is located at the Abingdon Exchange, a mixed-use retail hub with restaurants, brewery and local shops in the heart of downtown.  

Delta Blues has a soul dive bar feel with license plates and guitars adorning the walls.  The food is always fresh and the live music rivals any you’d see in Nashville to New Orleans.  For the Highlands Festival, Delta Blues was sponsoring ‘Tunes at Noon,’ with a local cajun zydeco meets, bluegrass roots duo performing an eclectic set of toe-tapping music.

Libby and I are both gluten free and luckily Delta Blues has a good selection of GF on their menu, including the mouthwatering pulled pork, salads, burgers (no bun) and sides like the potato salad.  I opened for the Cobb Salad with their moist pulled pork on top. I sampled a few of their homemade BBQ sauces from my native NC Eastern Vinegar Style to Memphis Sweet Style.  They were all delicious.

Next door to Delta Blues, I recommend checking out Tumble Creek Cider Co, which has amazing hard cider made in Abingdon.  The Appalachian Roots Trading Post is also a must visit in Abingdon.  This space has a mix of vendors, coffee shop, good eats and local souvenirs. 

The Crooked Road: Abingdon is known for its amazing music scene and has several music stops listed along the ‘Crooked Road,‘ including the Southwestern Virginia Cultural Center…

William King Museum of Art – Artbeat of Appalachia

“You’ll love the WKMA,” I told Libby. “The museum has a great permanent collection of arts from Southwestern Virginia and the Great Road influences, but what I love about this museum is that they rotate their exhibits out every few months, so it’s never quite the same. You’ll be able to see work by local regional artists alongside amazing traveling exhibitions. The best part is the museum is free to the public.”

We learned a bit about the history of the WKMA building earlier in our journey and its ties to William King. Today, the WKMA is a hub of culture and community. The museum actively sponsors numerous community arts projects, including the Van Gogh program that brings arts education directly into area schools. They also have an Art Lab on-site, where you can meet local artists in their studios and take classes.

• Coming this fall! Exciting news, Abingdon’s WKMA will become the permanent home of the Worrell Wildlife Collection, which is one of the largest collections of wildlife art in America. I’ll be featuring more about this fabulous collection in the coming months. Stay tuned!

The director, Betsy White, spoke with me when I visited in July 2025. She has a wealth of knowledge about Abingdon’s cultural heritage, ranging from Great Road furniture and pottery to mountain-inspired artists who continue to bring the artistic story of Southwestern Virginia to life. Betsy has written several books on art in the region, including Great Road Style: The Decorative Arts Legacy of Southwest Virginia & Northeast Tennessee and Backcountry Makers: An Artisan History of Southwest Virginia & Northeast Tennessee.

Today, Libby and I were thrilled to view several special exhibits, including a personal favorite: Sanctuaries in Stained Glass (on display through November 2026).

Sanctuaries in Stained Glass was the brainchild of curator Joshua Huffman, who wanted to tell the story of area churches in Southwestern Virginia and showcase their beautiful stained glass. The problem? You can’t easily remove stained-glass windows from a church for an exhibition! Joshua got to brainstorming and devised a solution using specialized LED lighting that portrays the stained glass within the museum without having to relocate the original windows from the churches. The lighting looks so authentic you almost think you are looking at the original glass installations.

Best of all, the exhibit shares the story of each church, the history of its congregation, the community it served, and how the glass was originally placed in the church.

Libby particularly loved the exhibit of Scottish art, The House, the Highlands and the Great Big Sea. This collection highlights Scottish artists who, though well-known in their native Scotland, are not as widely known in the United States—such as John Burr, Tomson Laing, and others. Here’s the exhibit blurb:

“The exhibition portrays scenes of life within and without the country of Scotland—men and women, children and grandparents, working, playing, traveling or reposing. Scenes of domestic life are flanked by scenes of the countryside.”

(Look for an Arts Expedition feature on this in the coming week!) Check out my sister page: artexpeditiontours.com

Rendezvous with History

As history buffs with a passion for the 18th century and all things Revolutionary War, Libby and I were excited to “time travel” to several historically themed events scheduled for Saturday afternoon at the Highlands Festival alongside their partners in history.

Colonial Faire and Market: A Living History Event

In celebration of America250, Abingdon and the Highlands Festival introduced a brand-new event this year: the Colonial Faire ’18th Century Market.’ This will continue as an annual event celebrating Abingdon and Southwestern Virginia’s colonial and Revolutionary roots.

Held on the grounds of the Southwest Virginia Higher Education Center (near the festival’s popular antiques market), this event offered a dynamic mix of live demonstrations—including Native American storytelling, music, carving traditions, and encampment displays—as well as the frontier history of early European-American settlers. From the Scots-Irish who traveled down the Great Wagon Road to the Overmountain Men who turned the tide toward liberty with their victory at Kings Mountain on October 7th, 1780, the heritage was on full display (more on that at our next stop!).

While at the Colonial Faire, I was thrilled to meet up with the ambassadors of the Highlands Festival, the Shew family. I started following Daniel Shew’s page, The Old House Agent, about a year ago and have been hooked ever since. He is a realtor in the Bristol-Abingdon area who helps sell historic properties and has personally renovated many old homes to ensure the region’s rich history and architecture endure. His wife, Monica, is also a history expert and active in preservation. It was wonderful to meet their son as well, and they even signed our copies of The Highlander magazine!

My favorite part of traveling—especially to events like the Highlands Festival and historic reenactments—is the connections you make with others who share a passion for learning about the past and keeping these stories alive for the future.

The unexpected joy of the day came with a visit to a living history village called Scoundrel’s Alley. I’ve been blessed to attend numerous living history events and reenactments, but nothing quite as humorous or lightning-defying as Scoundrel’s Alley!(Follow their page here)

This dynamic group of living historians tells the story of “the lowest side of life—scoundrels, rogues, paupers, and the rest.” It’s part lore, part history, and a whole lot of fun. The first tent we stepped into was reminiscent of 18th- and 19th-century side-show attractions that sought to astound and awe, even if their claims were dubious. The collection is super creative and witty—including a funny bone labeled “I found this quite humorous” and a rock purportedly from the center of the earth. The Scoundrels play up the act with period jargon, keeping visitors thoroughly engaged.

The second tent featured more traditional history, complete with display panels about fair spectacles spanning the mid-1700s into the early 1900s. I even spotted a panel about Joseph Priestley, the famous scientist who was instrumental in discovering oxygen and researching nitrous oxide (laughing gas). My friend Craig Specht volunteers at the Joseph Priestley House in Pennsylvania, so I loved seeing a shoutout to the English-born scientist who later immigrated to America and was close friends with Thomas Jefferson.

Rendezvous with the Overmountain Men

Over the past year, I’ve been personally following the trail of the Overmountain Men—backcountry patriots from Virginia, eastern Tennessee, North and South Carolina, and even Georgia who took on British Major Patrick Ferguson (a.k.a. “The Bulldog”) and his Loyalist provincials at Kings Mountain, SC, on October 7th, 1780. This was a pivotal patriot victory that decimated Ferguson’s Loyalist militia. Ferguson himself died on Kings Mountain.

• Learn more about the Overmountain Victory Trail here

After the fall of Charleston to the British on May 12th, 1780, General Cornwallis devised a strategy to set up outposts throughout South Carolina at key places like Georgetown, Camden, and Ninety Six. The British believed that with Charleston’s surrender, Loyalists from the backcountry would rise up and rally to support British troops. The idea was that the British would train the Loyalists to take control of the colony while Cornwallis moved north into North Carolina and, eventually, Virginia.

However, the plan never worked. The Carolinas were deeply divided. Furthermore, Lt. Col. Banastre Tarleton’s reputation as a “butcher” spread quickly following the British victory at the Waxhaws in Lancaster, South Carolina, which left 113 patriot casualties—even as the patriots attempted to surrender. (Learn more about the full story of the Waxhaws here.)

Major Patrick Ferguson, born in 1744, was a Scottish officer in the British Army. He was an expert marksman and had invented a groundbreaking breech-loading rifle known as the Ferguson Rifle. Cornwallis entrusted Ferguson to recruit an army of Loyalist militia. However, after an unexpected victory by patriot militia at Musgrove’s Mill near Ninety Six—coming just days after a major patriot defeat under Continental Commander Horatio Gates at Camden on August 16th, 1780—Cornwallis wanted these patriot militia upstarts stopped once and for all.

In September 1780, Patrick Ferguson made a fatal error when he attempted to threaten the “backwater men” living in the frontier region spanning Georgia, the Carolinas, Virginia, and present-day Tennessee.

In his infamous proclamation, he issued a direct threat:

“If you do not desist your opposition to the British arms, I shall march this army over the mountains, hang your leaders, and lay waste your country with fire and sword.”

Even without social media, texting, or 24/7 news, word spread quickly. Many of these settlers were hardy Scots-Irish or Scottish Highlanders who didn’t take kindly to being threatened—something Ferguson, as a fellow Scot, should have anticipated! Not to mention, many of these men were battle-hardened from defending the frontier against raids led by the Cherokee war chief Dragging Canoe. They decided they would hunt down Ferguson, take the fight to him, and finish off his army for good.

What many don’t realize is that this initial muster site was right here in Abingdon, and you can still visit the Abingdon Muster Grounds today. The site features a fantastic museum that details the American Revolution from both Loyalist and Patriot perspectives, explores Ferguson’s threat, and highlights the journey of the Overmountain Men. Website for Muster Grounds

It was here on September 24th, 1780, several hundred men rendezvoused at the Muster Grounds in Abingdon under the leadership of Colonel William Campbell and others. It is amazing that a portion of the grounds is still preserved, alongside of the amazing museum.

To celebrate America250 and the 77th anniversary of the Highlands Festival, the Abingdon Muster Grounds hosted a “Smoke & Fire” Weekend from July 25th–26th, complete with living historians, special lectures, and live traditional music.

I’ve become addicted to the Overmountain Men history since I visited the muster grounds and Sycamore Shoals, in nearby Elizabethton TN last year. I geeked out with the volunteers in the museum, and asked two dozen questions about William Campbell to the logistics of the muster at Abingdon. I appreciate Libby ‘joining the militia’ as we toured the amazing museum, which features a ton of historical artifacts that date back to patriots who fought at Kings Mountain, exhibition displays about loyalists and patriots, the war in the backcountry and more. It is a small museum, but jam packed with history. I always learn something new. They even have a ladle that was gifted to the Preston family by George Washington.

My favorite artifact is the dagger used by the Fightin’ Parson Charles Cummings whose fiery tongue encouraged the Overmountain Men in Abingdon before they departed for Sycamore Shoals and eventually onwards to Kings Mountain. *Stay tuned for more Overmountain history posts on my facebook page and blog*

Smoke and Fire – Living History Comes to Life

Celebrating #america250 and the Highlands Festival, The Abingdon Muster Grounds hosted a jam packed weekend of living history, allowing you to time travel to 1780.

Libby and I were thrilled to encounter members of The Liberty Mountain Drama, which is held annually in Kings Mountain (NC town, just over the state line from the battleground). I had the chance to see a mini performance of the play at The Museum of Waxhaws (near Charlotte) in Waxhaw NC in June and was blown away. This drama tells the story of the Overmountain Men and the struggles for liberty in the backcountry circa 1780.

While history often paints Maj. Patrick Ferguson as the ‘bad guy,’ he came to the Muster Grounds this weekend to share his side of the story, from his early life in Scotland, to his service as an officer at Brandywine, where he spared General George Washington’s life (he couldn’t shoot a man in the back who was simply on patrol duty, per Ferguson’s honor) to his own injury that left his arm shattered. We also learned about the Ferguson rifle. Ferguson tried to claim that he never ‘wrote down’ that scathing proclamation, but that’s up for debate… (Jeremy aka Maj. Ferguson does an excellent job. He and his wife, Ashley are the force behind Liberty Mountain). The play runs every year from September to October. Purchase your tickets here.

I also finally got to get the scoop from another historical figure I’ve ‘loved to loathe,’ the last Royal Governor of Virginia Lord Dunmore. When I visited St. John’s Church in Richmond, Patrick Henry expressed his repulsion at the way Dunmore treated the citizens of Virginia. Today, at the Muster Grounds, Dunmore stopped by to share his perspective on the American Revolution, as well as the ‘Legend of Colonel Campbell’s Sword from Kings Mountain.’

Michael Henningsen, director of the Abingdon Muster Grounds, portrayed Lord Dunmore and truly brought the Royal Governor to life. His performance gave me a much more nuanced view of Dunmore’s legacy—not that I’m “Team Dunmore,” but it helped me understand his perspective! While Lord Dunmore is widely known as the much-despised last Royal Governor of Virginia who clashed with Patrick Henry and the House of Burgesses, this portrayal shared his side of the story, including his early friendship with George Washington as they worked together surveying and settling the Ohio River Valley.

Part of the presentation leaned into Dunmore’s Scottish roots and how his family nearly fell from grace after rebelling against the Hanoverians during the Jacobite Uprising, where his family’s Clan Murray fought at the Battle of Culloden. As a young boy, he was even held at the Tower of London with his mother and siblings before his family eventually made their way back into polite society—paving the way for his eventual appointments as Royal Governor of New York and, later, Virginia.

You can take a historical tour with Michael and History Alive Tours while in Abingdon – for more info.

Sinking Springs Cemetery Tour:

“Cemeteries are like a giant library of stories.” – Quote from A.L. Mengel…

While some find burial grounds spooky or depressing, I often find a solace in pausing to remember those who came before us and say a prayer for the souls of the living and dead. In high school, I remember enjoying ‘Spoon River Anthology,’ by Edgar Lee Masters, a collection of fictional epitaphs about the lives of those who lived in Spoon River.  While that’s fictional, there is so much to be learned in hearing the stories of those who came before us.  Each soul has their own story worth hearing. While we don’t speak to the dead, you can research their life stories through historical records and resources like Findagrave.com

Abingdon’s Sinking Springs Cemetery is one of the most interesting historic burial grounds I have visited. The cemetery was originally part of the Sinking Springs Presbyterian Church whose original meeting house was adjacent to the cemetery (it has since been torn down, although you can still see where the oldest graves are marked near the original churchyard). The current Sinking Springs Presbyterian Church is on the corner of Main and Pecan (near the Creepers End Lodging). This cemetery is home to at least nine patriot graves who fought at Kings Mountain, two governors of Virginia (David Campbell and John B. Floyd), Civil War dead and an section of African Americans…

During the Highlands Festival, the Historical Society of Washington County VA hosted a spirited Living History Tour of Sinking Spring Cemetery where for one night only you could hear from several souls buried in the cemetery and learn about their life story.  The event was run by a talented group of history loving volunteers and local actors who helped the past come to life through the stories of those who walked before us.

The tour lasted about thirty minutes, beginning with an introductory history of the cemetery at the historic Parson Cummings Cabin…more on that in a moment, before we time traveled from circa 1776 the 1940s with various stops throughout the cemetery.

En route to our first “Spirited Couple,” I noticed the gravestone of Henry Cresswell. I remembered learning about him from an interview with Walter Jenny of the Historical Society of Washington County posted online several months ago.

Henry Cresswell

The first burial at Sinking Spring Cemetery is that of Henry Cresswell, dating to July 4th, 1776. While we know this date for the signing of the Declaration of Independence in the East, in the backcountry of Southwestern Virginia, settlers were fighting off attacks from a faction of Cherokee under Dragging Canoe, who was targeting regional settlements. This was very much a civil war within the region…many Cherokee favored peace, while Dragging Canoe resisted further encroachment on native lands. Added to this were figures like patriot General Griffith Rutherford, a complicated figure, who left a trail of destruction against many innocent Cherokee (read his bio here). While the war was raging in the West, the Declaration was being signed in the East, the. (Michael Hardy, a historian from the Sycamore Shoals area of Eastern Tennessee, has a great new book on this topic! Western North Carolina and Eastern Tennessee in the American Revolution)

At the time, Abingdon was known as Black’s Fort. According to Walter Jenny of the Washington County Historical Society, Cresswell and Sinking Spring pastor Reverend Charles Cummings were among those attacked not far from the cemetery as they headed to Cresswell’s property to bring back supplies to Black’s Fort. Some accounts place Cresswell’s death on July 22nd, but most scholars lean toward July 4th, as historical records indicate he died roughly one week before the birth of his daughter, Mary Elizabeth Cresswell, on July 14th, 1776.

• Hear more about the Cresswell from historian Walter Jenny here in this fabulous cemetery tour.

The first official stop on our tour featured Samuel and Martha Vance.  Samuel fought at Kings Mountain with the Overmountain Men and is one of at least nine patriots buried in Sinking Springs.  Learn more about their lives here.

There is a monument to all the patriots who fought in the Revolution that are buried in Washington County by the Cummings Cabin. 

We also had the chance to learn about patriot John Bradley from his direct descendant (also named John Bradley, who served in the US Airforce).  What struck me is the legacy of military service in the Bradley family and their continued ties to the Abingdon area.

The third stop we heard from the Willoughby’s and their role in the founding of Abingdon. Andrew, the elder, was involved in the American Revolution effort and helped run the town, while his son spoke of his life in the Federal period of America.

I look forward to sharing more history about Sinking Springs in an upcoming Buried History feature – stay tuned!

Cummings Cabin

Charles Cummings was an Irish-born Presbyterian minister who was called to service in Southwestern Virginia. He served as pastor to two churches in the area, including Ebbing Spring and Sinking Spring Presbyterian (which was founded circa 1773 and continues to be an active congregation today). Cummings earned the nickname the “Fightin’ Parson” for his role in fending off raids during the 1776 Cherokee incursions led by Dragging Canoe. It is said he kept his loaded rifle beside the pulpit as he preached in case of a surprise attack! He was also a fiery patriot who signed the Fincastle Resolutions.

Fun Fact: On January 20th, 1775, fifteen Virginia frontiersmen, including Charles Cummings, endorsed resolutions promising resistance to the death against British tyranny to preserve their political liberties. According to the Abingdon Muster Grounds Museum, the phrasing in the Fincastle Resolutions—promising to be “resolved to live or die”—may have helped spark Patrick Henry’s famous “Give Me Liberty, or Give Me Death!” speech on March 23rd, 1775, at St. John’s Church in Richmond. Two of the signers, Colonel William Campbell and Colonel William Christian, were Patrick Henry’s brothers-in-law. It is highly probable that these zealous patriots shared their sentiments of being “resolved to fight or die” with Henry before he so eloquently expressed them at Henrico Parish.

Parson Cummings led a prayer and invocation for Colonel William Campbell and his men as they gathered at the Abingdon Muster Grounds before marching toward Kings Mountain. You can learn more about Cummings at the Abingdon Muster Grounds Museum. He is buried in Sinking Spring Cemetery.

The cabin was relocated to Sinking Spring in 1971 and is one of the oldest log manse structures east of the Mississippi River. It was open for tours, allowing guests to step back in time to circa 1773–1774, when the cabin was originally constructed.

A little ‘grave humor.’ While cemeteries are no laughing matter, Libby and I couldn’t help but laugh when we saw the funeral home hearse handing out bottled water and lip balm with their logo.  I even got a jar opener, which funny enough I’d been telling Libby I needed one earlier in the day.  At least he didn’t offer us a lift.  (Sorry for the dad joke) 

Evening in Abingdon…a perfect place to grab a meal, show or just relax

We’d had a jam packed day of time traveling adventures from coffee shops to historic homes to arts and crafts and rendezvous with the Overmountain Men to a journey through the cemetery.  

As tired as we were, we tired in vain to grab a last minute ticket to the Barter Theatre’s production of Guys and Dolls, which sadly had sold out.  The Barter always offers top quality productions and the tickets are very affordable. I’ll look forward to catching a show there during my next visit (hopefully their upcoming drama about the Overmountain Men).

Virginia’s Oldest Tavern…Cheers to 250!

Did you know that the oldest continuously operating tavern in Virginia is the 1779 Abingdon Tavern, which has its original bar.  This is one of my favorite places to grab a drink when I’m in town. They have a phenomenal menu as well, which will whet any palate.  Libby and I were both still full from our lunch at Delta Blues and were in the mood for lighter fare, but couldn’t miss the chance to peek into The Tavern.  Feeling the floorboards creak beneath your feet as you sip on a cocktail, I imagine the Overmountain Men coming here for food and conversation (and plenty of spirits) before making their way to the Muster Grounds on September 24th, 1780 as they prepared for the march to Kings Mountain.

Other notables who passed through the Abingdon Tavern include: Andrew Jackson, Henry Clay, Pierre L’Enfant (designer of DC)…

In addition to providing lodging and meals for stagecoach travelers along the Great Road, it also was the first post office in Virginia west of the Blue Ridge and the original mail slot remains. During the Civil War, it was used as a hospital for both Union and Confederate troops. It later served as a bank, private home, antique shop, restaurant and bakery.

Sweet Dreams at the Creeper’s End…

It was a jam packed day of adventures from arts to revolutionary fun.  I’m grateful I had my friend Libby to embark on the adventure with me.

Stay tuned for additional posts sharing more about Abingdon’s rich cultural history and fun things to do in the coming weeks.  From the mountain scenery, amazing hospitality, charming architecture, good eats and arts and entertainment…Abingdon is a place you’ll long to return to time and again. 

Ready to plan your adventure to Abingdon VA? Here are some helpful resources to get you started:

• Creepers End Lodging (I highly recommend!)
• Take in a show at the Barter Theatre
• Official Visit Abingdon website
• Abingdon Muster Grounds

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Hi everyone! I’m Adele Lassiter, aka American Nomad Traveler…I started this blog to share my love of history and fun places to visit (without breaking the budget). When I’m not blogging, and time traveling through Revolutionary War sites, or camping under the starts in Yellowstone (I used to live in Montana, but am based in NC now)…I am a singer-songwriter. My debut album, American Nomad is out now at: adelelassiter.bandcamp.com

Interesting in collaborating for a feature? Or have a travel suggestion? You can email me at americannomadtraveler@gmail.com