In today’s American Nomad Traveler we’re traveling through over 300 years of history at North Carolina’s Brunswick Town Historic Site. Located in southeastern North Carolina, near Wilmington, on the banks of the mighty Cape Fear River, Brunswick Town tells the story of North Carolina’s early Colonial History. From 1726 to 1776, Brunswick Town was one of the premier ports in the Carolinas and a bustling city inhabited by affluent citizens, local shopkeepers, traders and even Colonial Governors. As a major port, Brunswick Town was affected by the onslaught of British taxes on the colonies following the French and Indian War. Brunswick Town was actually the first city in America to boycott the Stamp Act. The town became known as a hotbed of patriotic activity and sadly was a victim of British and Loyalist raids resulting in its complete and utter destruction by 1780.
The land later served as the site of Ft. Anderson during the Civil War. Earthenworks serve as reminders of the battle of brother against brother in the contentious Civil War. Fort Anderson was important to the Confederacy given its proximity to the Cape Fear River, allowing them to block access as needed and ensure supply chains were open for the cause.
Following the Civil War, Brunswick/Ft. Anderson fell into abandonment once more, until historians and preservationists undertook the work of excavation. Their efforts unearthed the foundations of Brunswick’s colonial homesteads, bringing renewed attention to this nearly forgotten chapter of history. Today Brunswick Town/Ft.Anderson is protected as a North Carolina Historic Site (State Park). Visitors have the opportunity to learn more about the history in a state of the art visitor center, meander the ruins of homesteads and stand on the shores of The Cape Fear River.
As you walk through this ghost town, ravaged by time and war, the memories of the men and women who lived in Brunswick Town remain, even as a whisper amid the sea of century old Live Oaks dripped in Spanish Moss. If you stand still, in the wind and lapping of the riverbanks you can imagine the past and share in the tales of Brunswick Town.
Traveling back in time: Brunswick’s History
To begin your time-traveling adventure at Brunswick Town, I recommend starting at the Visitor’s Center. There, interactive and informative displays will guide you through the history and the stories of the people who lived and worked in this region.
Native American History:
Various Native American tribes lived in this area as far back as 1000 BC. Little is known about The Cape Fear Indians living in the area of Brunswick Town in the 1600s/1700s. They were most likely related to the Waccamaw Siouan tribes to the south, versus the Algonquin tribes to the north. It is believed the Cape Fear Indians lived in relative isolation from each other. Historians believe they did not use this area for farming, but rather for fishing and hunting.
The first known European explorer to visit the Cape Fear and Brunswick Town area was Giovanni da Verrazano in 1524. The Natives were friendly and welcoming as he anchored in the region. He described the Cape Fear Indians: “they are of colour russet…their hayre blacke, thicke, and not very long, which they tye together in a knot behind and weare it like a little taile.”
In 1526, Spanish explorer Lucas Vasquez de Ayllon entered the mouth of the Cape Fear and called it The River Jordan. This visit was recorded but only in passing.
North Carolina had been the site of the first attempted English permanent settlement at Fort Raleigh in the Outer Banks near Manteo, but this Lost Colony disappeared. In 1607, Jamestown in Virginia became the first permanent English settlement in America.
However the Cape Fear of Carolina did not have a strong English settlement until the early 18th century. From 1662 to 1663, New Englander William Hilton sailed the mouth of The Cape Fear twice in the hope of scouting for a permanent settlement, but it didn’t come to fruition.
In 1664 John Vassall led a party of settlers from Barbados to an area on the opposite side of The Cape Fear from Brunswick. They established this as Clarendon County and set up Charles Town. The settlement lasted through 1667 when it was abandoned.
Considering our modern, developed coastline, it’s natural to question why settling the Cape Fear and other areas of the Carolina coast was initially so difficult. Several interconnected factors contributed to these early challenges. While the Cape Fear River and its tributaries offered some of the best navigable waterways in the Carolinas, a key reason why the region remains a major port today, these same rivers could hinder land travel and limit connections with other communities. Furthermore, the rivers and surrounding areas could breed diseases like malaria. The swampy ground presented difficulties for farming, contrasting with the more fertile Coastal Plain further inland. Eventually, settlers like Roger Moore adapted, focusing on rice and indigo cultivation, which thrived in the local terrain. By the time Brunswick Town was established, a more robust trade network for goods such as turpentine had developed. Finally, tensions with the indigenous population, whose land it was, sadly led to conflict.
The Cape Fear Indians who inhabited the region sided with the colonists against The Tuscaroras during the Tuscarora War of 1711-1715, as they shared a common enemy. However they turned against the colonists in 1715 during the Yamasee War. Sadly after the conflict only 200 of the 1000 Cape Fear survived and eventually migrated to live with other tribes. Brunswick Town founder Maurice Moore was involved in this conflict with The Cape Fear.
Beginnings of Brunswick Town
North Carolina and South Carolina were not separated until 1712 as they both grew in population. Maurice and Roger Moore, who would become the ‘Kings’ of Brunswick Town, were sons of Carolina Governor James Moore. I’m actually a direct descendant of Roger Moore via my maternal grandmother’s side of the family, so discovering the roots of their history (for better and worse) was interesting.
Maurice was gifted 1500 acres by The Lord Proprietors which he partially used to establish Brunswick Town in 1726.
He sold the lots for 2 pounds each, recognizing building the town and community would pay off. The first lot was sold to Cornelius Hartnett Sr, the father of American patriot Cornelius Harnett Jr. The junior was involved with The Halifax Resolves, which in April 1775, North Carolina became the first state to declare Independence – over a year before the official Declaration of Independence on July 4th 1776.
Maurice’s brother, Roger Moore and many of his other family members moved to Brunswick Town as well. They were nicknamed ‘The Family.’ Roger Moore (my direct ancestor) built the gorgeous Orton Plantation circa 1730. For years it was a popular tourist spot for it’s beautiful gardens, but it is now closed to the public and owned by another descendant of Roger Moore (Louis Moore Bacon – we are distant cousins).
Brunswick Town became a ‘who’s who’ of early North Carolina movers and shakers and by 1730 was the political center of The Cape Fear region and the seat of New Hanover County. It quickly grew into one of the busiest ports in the region, exporting important goods like longleaf pine products used for shipbuilding like tar, pitch and turpentine.
As a bustling port town, Brunswick had a number of merchants and shops in the city that served the population…you can see some of the artifacts from everyday life in Brunswick Town in the museum.
Capital City: As it grew in prominence, Brunswick Town became the third capital city of North Carolina, after Bath and Edenton, from 1743-1770. Several royal governors lived in Brunswick Town, Governor Arthur Dobbs, Governor William Tryon, who later moved into his palace in New Bern, and Governor Josiah Martin. Governor Tryon eventually moved the capital to New Bern in 1770.
Spanish Attack:
Spanish Attack:
In the early Colonial period, England was constantly at war with both France and Spain, so attacks on English colonists by the French or the Spanish was an ever-present threat at Brunswick Town. In September 1748, two Spanish war ships dropped anchor in the port and came ashore to capture slaves and wreak havoc on the town.
On September 4th, The colonists saw the Spanish and panicked, running into the woods. With the town unguarded, the Spanish began looting buildings and ransacking the town, and raiding slaves who stayed behind. Attacking a busy port like Brunswick was a good target for Spanish revenge against the British.
Eventually the settlers regrouped and on September 5th, Captain William Dry III rallied a group of 67 men to take back the town. The Spanish then fled, but during their retreat, their ship La Fortuna exploded killing most of the men on board.. The second ship, La Loretta, surrendered on the condition that they would be able to leave. During the counterattack, only one person defending the town lost his life. The slave that was volunteered by George Ronalds lost his life when a small cannon exploded.
Following the expulsion of privateers from Brunswick Town, the abandoned ship La Fortuna was searched by sailors hired by William Dry III. They recovered guns, anchors, and stolen goods, including a painting of Ecce Homo. This painting was later donated to St. James Church in Wilmington. The town also sold the Spanish slaves and other goods found on the ship, using the proceeds to fund the construction of both St. Philip’s Church in Brunswick Town and St. James Church in Wilmington.
Russellborough:
Russellborough was originally owned by Captain John Russell, but the grand plantation house wasn’t finished until Royal Governor Arthur Dobbs bought the land in 1758 and completed it, naming it “Castle Dobbs.” After Dobbs’ death, Governor William Tryon moved in and called it “Castle Tryon” before eventually relocating to Tryon Palace in New Bern. Tryon then sold the Brunswick Town plantation to William Dry III, who renamed it Bellfont. Unfortunately, British forces burned the plantation in 1776. Remarkably, Russellborough remained undamaged during the construction of nearby Fort Anderson. Today, its excavated ruins are part of the Brunswick Town/Fort Anderson North Carolina State Historic Site, where artifacts from Russellborough are also on display.
Road to Revolution:
Stamp Act:
We explored the Road to the Revolutionary War in recent posts in our Philadelphia Adventures. Brunswick Town and North Carolina from the start was an important spark in The Road to Revolution. For years the colonists were proud of their British roots and loyal to the monarchy – what changed?
From 1756-1763, England’s rivalries with France came to a head in The French and Indian War, which was an extension of the Seven-Years War fought on The Continent. The battle over territory in the Ohio Valley and other western territory between English and French settlers and Native Americans had been increasing. The French had strongholds along The St. Lawrence River even up into Lake Superior and MInnesota (flashback to an American Nomad visit to Grand Portage). The British and American Colonists fought side by side with certain native tribes against The French and their Indian allies. The war ended up as a victory for the British who took control of Canada. However this victory was costly and parliament realized that in order to maintain their hold in America they’d need to continue to have a permanent military presence on the frontier. This was costly and British citizens and parliament felt like the colonists should pay their fair share. Thus on November 1st 1765, the British Parliament enacted the Stamp Act, which was essentially a tariff on colonists.
What was the Stamp Act: The Stamp Act of 1765 was a British law that imposed a direct tax on the American colonies, requiring them to purchase stamped paper for various printed materials, including legal documents, newspapers, and playing cards. The tax was levied to help defray the costs of the French and Indian War and the British army stationed in the colonies.
Why were the Colonists upset? British citizens were not allowed to be taxed without representation per the laws of parliament, but as Colonials did not have representation in parliament, they were not supposed to be directly taxed. They could be taxed by order of their local legislatures, but it was a violation to be taxed without representation in parliament. Parliament saw The Stamp Act as a minor issue to help pay for debts for their helping the Colonists in the French Indian War, after all in their mind their army helped the Colonies and British citizens in England had been paying similar Stamp taxes since 1694.
Americans didn’t see things this way. Many had given their lives to fight with the English in The French and Indian War and also faced hardship from it. They also felt that they didn’t need to be taxed to support the military as they could raise local militias to help. This would be taxed but through local representatives. The colonists also revealed that parliament did not plan to give them a voice in parliament (Representation) as they were seen more as property of the crown.
For the first time, Colonists, who always saw themselves as full-British citizens began to realize that The Crown saw them as second class citizens with little respect for their rights. Looking back, many of these issues could have been solved through diplomacy had Britain been open to allowing for representation in parliament or working with local militias, but the more colonists voiced their concern the more inflexible King George became. Thus the beginnings of The Road to Revolution began.
Brunswick Town – No Taxation with Representation
As a port city, Brunswick Town would be greatly affected by The Stamp Act given it’s reliance on trade and business transactions. This of course lit a fire under many of Brunswick’s residents.
In November 1765, not long after The Stamp Act was announced, Brunswick Town participated in one of the first armed resistances to The Stamp Act in the Colonies, when the HM Sloop Diligence arrived at the port with stamps. The stamps were able to be embossed/added to all legal documents, newspapers, gambling papers, ships’ clearance papers, books and pamphlets. Learn more about The Stamps – Smithsonian article. Angry citizens met the captain at the dock, carrying muskets, demanding he not remove any of the stamps off the ship. Royal Governor Tryon was in a bind. As a resident of Brunswick Town, he was empathetic towards their feelings, but as an officer of the crown he had to uphold the law. He even offered to personally pay for stamps on a number of documents and for wine licenses for certain towns. However the angry crowd refused his offer and the stamps remained on the ship.
- This Smithsonian article details what the ‘stamps’ looked like. In addition to being a tax without representation, the colonists were also upset that their stamp taxes were higher than those in England.
Despite the bravery of this resistance, the colony suffered significantly. The lack of required stamps meant courts could not legally operate, and essential legal documents could not be processed. The Diligence‘s captain’s reluctance to unload the stamps in such a hostile atmosphere brought trade in Brunswick Town and the entire Cape Fear area to a virtual standstill. The consequences were far-reaching: warehouses became overwhelmed with goods, courtrooms sat empty, newspapers disappeared, and even basic necessities were in demand. The inability to prove wills or obtain marriage licenses highlighted the complete cessation of essential legal functions, effectively halting a significant portion of colonial life
In February 1766, the Dobbs and the Patience ships arrived at Brunswick Town. The ships did not have stamp clearance and were not allowed to unload. Outraged, Patriot leaders, John Ashe, Cornelius Harnett Jr. (future signer of Halifax Resolves), James Moore, Captain Roberrt Howe and Colonel Hugh Waddell led several hundred citizens to arrest royal officials in the town. They surrounded the governor’s home in protest to the Stamp Act and placed Tryon under house arrest. Needless to say Governor Tryon, no matter the sympathy he had for colonists, wasn’t thrilled and by 1770 had moved the capital to New Bern.
This protest was one of the contributing factors to the end of the Stamp Act in 1766. It was a short victory for patriots before the Intolerable Acts set in and intensified the Road to Revolution.
Brunswick Town’s decline began in 1769 starting with a devastating hurricane that caused extreme damage to the community. With the beginning of The American Revolution, local loyalists and British officers began to retaliate against Brunswick Town patriots, burning their homes, leading some to flee their homes in April 1776. During this time the developing town of Wilmington began to grow in size.
British General Cornwallis briefly stationed at Brunswick Town in 1781 before leaving the Carolinas for Yorktown, and what would be a surprising defeat for The British and effectual end to the war. It is believed the remaining town was razed by Cornwallis’s troops.
In spite of its prime location on The Cape Fear River, Brunswick Town was never rebuilt, as other settlements like Wilmington grew.
Civil War:
During the Civil War, the Confederacy transformed the ruins of Brunswick Town into an earthen fort. Built by General Samuel Gibbs French, it protected the Cape Fear River inlets and the vital port of Wilmington from Union blockade. Its earthen batteries served as platforms for Confederate cannons and underground ‘bomb proofs’ provided shelter. The fort’s purpose was to impede Union ships and act as a safe landing for blockade runners bringing essential supplies to the Confederacy. Originally named Fort St. Philip after the ruined church grounds, but it was later renamed to honor Colonel George B. Anderson
The museum features a historic battle flag from Fort Anderson and lots of artifacts from the Fort.
Touring the Grounds:
A map of the grounds enables you to go on a self-guided walking tour. The walking tour takes you through ruins of the foundations of many of the homes and stores of Brunswick Town. You can also walk on the banks of the Cape Fear River. Large earthen mounds are a reminder of the contentious Civil War years.
As my mom and I walked amid the old bricks and stone foundations, under the whispering Spanish Moss, I took a moment to say a prayer in memory for all who lived and died there and reflected on the people who lived in this Colonial town. Can you imagine what they experienced – from building a community, trade, attacks by the Spanish and British, hurricanes and the Revolutionary War…the stories these ruins can tell. The importance of the Americans who lived and died here.
One of my favorite spots at Brunswick Town are the ruins St. Philip’s Church, with stands as a skeleton of hope against the odds. The British burned it in in 1776, yet it’s ruins remain. Many of my ancestors worshiped there, including my uncle Benjamin Smith, who was the grandson of Roger Moore (I’m related to his brother James). Benjamin Smith was an ardent patriot who served as an aide-de-camp General George Washington in The Revolutionary War. He later served as a governor of North Carolina. Smith was a philanthropist who believed in public education and helping the poor. Learn more about Benjamin Smith here.
Quick Tips to Plan Your Trip:
Brunswick Town/Fort Anderson is easily accessible from Wilmington and surrounding area. We’ll be digging into fun things to do in Wilmington in upcoming posts. Usually my mom and I stay near Wrightsville Beach and use it as a base to reach Brunswick Town.
After finishing your tour of Brunswick Town, I recommend a detour to Southport. Southport was founded by Benjamin Smith and where the Cape Fear reaches The Atlantic Island. Southport has a gorgeous riverfront and ferry access to popular Bald Head Island (once owned by Benjamin Smith).
Planning your visit:
Official Brunswick Town Website: https://historicsites.nc.gov/all-sites/brunswick-town-fort-anderson
Admission is free.
Address: 8884 St. Philip’s Rd. SE
Winnabow, NC 28479
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American Nomad is written by travel, history and art lover and singer-songwriter Adele Lassiter.
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