Driving Through History: Exploring the Natchez Trace Near Nashville

Today on American Nomad Traveler we’re continuing our TN adventures with an adventure exploring the beautiful scenery and historic roots along the Natchez Trace, a 444 mile parkway meandering from Nashville TN to Natchez MS.

When I lived in Nashville, this was often my weekend go-to for history, recreation and scenery.  Each season on the Natchez Trace offers something new, from the quiet winter days when the trees are bare and the world is still to the flowers of spring and the fiery red colors of fall.  

While I’d love to travel the length of the parkway with you, Today we’re going to focus on the Tennessee portion, which is perfect for a day trip from Nashville. You can grab a parkway map and plan your route here.

Before we get started on our road trip, it’s important to understand the history of The Natchez Trace.

What is the Natchez Trace Parkway?

Following an area near the Old Natchez Trace trade route, this 444 mile parkway stretches from Nashville TN, briefly cutting south in Alabama, before heading towards Natchez Mississippi.  The Natchez Trace is a wonderful and important travel destination for many reasons. For drivers who enjoy scenic backroads without the hustle and bustle of the interstate, this ambling picturesque drive through the quaint meadows and dense forests and limestone cliffs of Tennessee, while the Mississippi portion near Natchez features bayous and swamps situated in the flood plains of zigzagging rivers. 

Each mile of the trace is packed with history and natural scenery worth exploring.  I’ve traveled the TN stretch of the trace countless times and still find more to discover with each journey.

Why the scenery is dynamic and ever changing, for me, what makes the Natchez Parkway so special is its thousands of years of history. 

For more than 10,000 years, the Natchez Trace has served as an avenue of travel, trade, change, and communication. From prehistoric people to Native Americans, early European settlers, soldiers, American presidents, traders, and even Kaintucks (boatmen from Kentucky who used river access up and down the trace or trade) – all have left their indelible mark on this historic pathway. 

In 1938, Congress designated the Natchez Trace Parkway as a unit of the National Park System. The park system does an amazing job preserving old infrastructure along the Trace, helping to tell the stories of the past and also highlighting ecological impacts affecting the parkway’s present.

Traveling through History: The Old Natchez Trace

The Old Natchez Trace consisted of a network of trails, which travelers could follow for trade, or to get from point a to b into the interior Mississippi, northwestern Alabama and Middle Tennessee.  The trace traverses the ancestral homelands of the Natchez, Chickasaw and Choctaw nations.  People from these nations and their ancestors created thriving and diverse cultures based on community, trade, alliances…Today the Parkway links more than 350 archaeological sites and 22 burial and ceremonial mounds, including the Emerald Mound.  The Emerald Mound is the second largest mount in the United States. Fun fact, the largest mound in in Illinois near Missouri border at Cahokia.

As we learned in our Downtown Nashville History Tour at The Tennessee State Museum, Tennessee was home to many Native American tribes with unique communities and interconnected networks.  Many ancient settlements were part of the Mississippian Mound Building culture.  When you explore The Natchez Trace, you’ll learn that The Natchez and other ancient tribes, affiliated with the Mississippian culture were also mound builders.  These mounds were used for a variety of civic, religious and ceremonial purposes.  

By the 1780s, The Trace was a popular route for inland trade.  In the early years of America, future presidents, traveling preachers, settlers, and soldiers also traveled along the Old Trace. In 1800, President John Adams designated it as a US postal route on what was then the western frontier.  The trace served as a backdrop in the War of 1812, as General Andrew Jackson used the Old Trace for moving volunteer militia.

The Devil’s Backbone: For centuries many travelers nicknamed The Natchez Trace as the Devil’s Backbone because it was a tortuous journey and like any ancient highway path it could attract vandals and criminals who would take advantage of travelers.  Also the overland hiking, boating, horseback riding could be dangerous if you fell ill or got lost, injured…you name it!  It would be helpful to have a guide with you to navigate these devilish threats along the trace. In fact many locals, including Native Americans offered their services as guides, as it was such a cumbersome path.

Travelers often had to take the trace to get to their destination but it was always with some trepidation.  Typically they’d break up the journey at way stations or reputable ‘Stands’ – cabins that provided lodging and food.  In addition these stands were local gathering places for the spread of news, information and new ideas. The food was basic: corn in the form of hominy, bacon, biscuits, coffee and sugar and whiskey were served. Lodging was normally on the floor; beds were available only to a few due to many travelers and cramped conditions. Some travelers chose to sleep outdoors or on the porches

The nickname also denotes the trace’s darker history

The Natchez Trace holds a painful history tied to the domestic slave trade. During this abhorrent period, enslaved men, women, and children were cruelly marched along portions of the Old Trace, their lives ripped apart by force. Their journey was filled with terror, as predatory bandits often lurked, eager to kidnap them for further sale or to hold them for ransom from their former enslavers. While many were driven towards the notorious slave market in Natchez, MS, others found themselves sold to nearby plantations and inns, such as Mount Locust, which still stands today along the Parkway, a stark reminder of the human cost of this era.

Native American  – Tragedy on The Trace 

For thousands of years, the Indigenous peoples who called this land home eventually lost most of their ancestral territories through forced treaties and removals. While the major removal routes of the Trail of Tears often lay to the north, official Trail of Tears routes did cross the Old Trace in several places. Though no known documentation confirms exactly how the Old Trace was used for these movements, it’s likely it served as a final path for many before departing on the larger forced migrations.

Transportation Route – Rivers and On Foot:

Boatmen would often float down the Mississippi from cities like St. Louis, or via the Ohio River near Kentucky across rivers towards Natchez and New Orleans with goods that they would sell in the Natchez markets.  While getting down the Mississippi was fairly easy, their flatboats were useless going north against the current of the Mississippi River, so these boatmen known as  ‘Kaintucks’ – would sell their boats for lumber in Natchez, then walk or ride horses on the Old Trace to get back home.  Makes me appreciate our roads and my Honda CRV – can you imagine.  I would assume it was profitable enough as they’d have to buy a new flatboat with every journey.  

The Civil War: 

The Natchez Trace also played a role during the Civil War, with both Union and Confederate armies utilizing its paths. History buffs will appreciate that many key battlegrounds are conveniently located, often less than forty minutes from the parkway. Imagine visiting the hallowed grounds of Stones River (Murfreesboro, Tennessee), the vast expanse of Shiloh Battlefield (straddling the Mississippi/Tennessee border), or the Tupelo National Battlefield (right off the parkway in Mississippi), all offering compelling detours into the past.

Natchez Today:

Today the parkway preserves the history of this ancient road and protects the natural and scenic wonders along the way.  

Nashville Natchez Adventure:

When planning your trip, you have several options, you can focus on the scenic drive and stop periodically at easy to access turnouts, or focus on key sections for hiking or historical exploration.  I’m building a bit of both into our adventure.

Another option is breaking up the journey and stopping along the way at cool small towns off the parkway to discover what history and charm they offer.  

I’ve mentioned this in previous posts, but it bears repeating, The Natchez Parkway starts in Nashville off scenic Highway 100, which is another fun area to explore.  You’ll need food for the journey so a couple of quick tips.

The parkway is remote, with limited access outside of towns located a few miles off the parkway route.  I recommend going to the store and buying some snacks like Kind bars, bottled water – whatever floats your fancy.  You can also pack a picnic as there are tons of great picnicking areas along the parkway.

For breakfast (or early lunch) stop by The Loveless Cafe for your biscuits and a hot meal. I’m celiac so I skip the biscuits but love their food and blackberry jam. It’s a touristy spot but who cares – the food is delicious, it has a historic atmosphere in an old motor inn and friendly staff.  Plus you might spot a celebrity or two (although you’re the star in my book)

On our trip to Franklin, we drove over the iconic Double Arch Natchez Trace bridge (mile 438, the miles descend from 444 in Nashville to 1 in Natchez).  This is an innovative piece of engineering, that though modern it has a naturalistic design that flows into the landscape.  Plus the views from 155 feet are stunning.  If you want a picture of the bridge, you can stop at Birdsong Hollow for a photo opt.  This is also a popular spot for birdwatching.

Continuing south, the road meanders through valleys, flower kissed meadows and against dense forests as you travel through history.  Turnouts offer historical exhibits about the people and events that happened in each section of the parkway.

Water Valley Overlook (mile 411.8) is the perfect spot to take in the scenery. This easy to access turn out provides peaceful views of the farmland below.  This is a great picnic spot.  

Must-Stop on Parkway: The Gordon House Historic Site – this beautifully preserved Federal style brick home was built in 1818 by Captain John Gordon and his family.  Seeing this home, you can imagine it was a welcome site for weary travelers and could offer respite during their journey.

In addition to serving as The Gordon’s home, they would also provide lodging as well as a ferry service over the nearby Duck River.  Operating a ferry was a common practice until modern day bridges, especially in remote areas.  It provided a much needed service and shortcut for overland travelers without having to portage (go around) the river.

• Fun Fact: The Duck River is 184 miles long and the longest river in Tennessee. It is a popular scenic and recreational river, traversing historic spots like The Natchez Trace, outside the parkway east towards the Old Indian Mounds of Old Fort State Park (near Manchester TN) 

You’ll learn at The Gordon House that with the advent of the steamboat the Trace became less frequented as boaters could sail up and down the Mississippi, which eventually hurt their business.   Learn more about the Gordon Family and the House here.

A must stop is Jackson Falls – I love this hike. The waterfall cascades over a limestone cliff outcropping. You’ll notice many of these limestone cliffs throughout Middle Tennessee and they are beautiful and add character to the landscape.  Limestone is a very porous rock, so while Natchez Trace has no public caves, there are cave networks throughout the region.

Be warned, although this hike is only .75 one way – it has a steep incline and stairs (from my last time there).  So take your time. If this is too strenuous, Fall Hollow Falls at 391 is another good option for waterfall wandering. *funny story when I hiked this trail in college I dropped my camera and never got the perfect perfect. I’ll have to return next trip for the perfect photo.

At mile 401.4 learn about the history of tobacco farming in the area, at The Old Tobacco Barn.  

From NPS website: This barn was built for Mr. Leland Greenfield in 1959 from timber grown on this farm. Mr. Greenfield first grew tobacco here in 1932. The Greenfield family had owned the land for 100 years before the State of Tennessee purchased and deeded it to the Natchez Trace Parkway in 1977.

Burley tobacco was grown and air-cured here. It’s a hard crop to raise, each acre requiring about 250 hours of labor. In comparison an acre of wheat is only about 3 hours. Burley tobacco must be air-cured for four to six weeks in the barn before it is ready for market.

Fall Hollow Falls

At mile 391 you can view another beautiful Tennessee waterfall, Fall Hollow Falls. This is an easier walk than Jackson Falls, with an equally stunning view. As you leave your car, you’ll instantly hear the rush of running water. It’s about ten feet to the viewing platform.

Our final stop on our Tennessee Parkway adventure is one of the most somber along the Natchez Trace: the gravesite of Governor Meriwether Lewis.

A famed explorer and co-captain of the 1804-1806 Lewis and Clark Expedition, Lewis journeyed through vast American territories west of the Missouri River—lands previously known only to Native tribes.

Lewis and Clark have long held my fascination, igniting my own desire to travel across the country when I was younger. I vividly recall first seeing their artifacts at Monticello, Thomas Jefferson’s home in Charlottesville. Jefferson, a fellow lover of the outdoors, shared a significant connection with Lewis. When Jefferson became president, he orchestrated the landmark Louisiana Purchase (1803), an incredible land deal where the United States purchased all French lands west of The Mississippi River. Napoleon was in a budget crunch and sold all of the land to the U.S. for only 15 million, a steal at the time as it doubled the size of America.

Jefferson, then commissioned Meriwether Lewis and William Clark to organize an expedition to explore this new territory. Their original hope was to find a ‘northwest passage,’ but what they discovered instead were vast, wide-open plains teeming with bison herds, diverse Native American tribes, and the rugged peaks of the Rockies, ultimately reaching the Oregon coast before their return. Remarkably, only one member of the expeditionary party, Sergeant Floyd, died during this two-year trek (in Iowa), from appendicitis, which was untreatable at the time.

Today, you can follow the Lewis and Clark Trail very closely to their original route, as well as visit sites related to their incredible journey. I hope to dedicate a future blog series just to Lewis and Clark (and of course, my hero Sacagawea)! There’s simply so much history and adventure along that path.

After returning from their expedition in 1806, Lewis was appointed Governor of the Louisiana Territory in 1807 and took up his post in 1808. (By the way, the capital of Louisiana at the time was St. Louis, a city rich with Lewis and Clark history!) Unfortunately, many of the bills incurred during the expedition were slow to be paid by Congress, and Lewis felt the immense pressure, determined to get these accounts settled.

It is also important to note that before Lewis became Governor of Louisiana, the territory had been managed poorly by a corrupt man named James Wilkinson. Though a hero in the Revolutionary War after being appointed as Governor to Louisiana he proved himself more loyal to Spain, making deals with the Spanish and selling secrets. He was dismissed from the role and replaced by Lewis who had a mess on his hands. Wilkinson was later implicated in the Aaron Burr sedition fiasco. Learn more here

He decided to head for Washington to appeal directly to Congress and his friend President Thomas Jefferson, as well as defend himself with President Madison (who had just taken office). Originally, he planned to take a boat to New Orleans and then another to Washington. However, when he reached Fort Pickering (modern-day Memphis), he made the fateful decision to take the Natchez Trace overland. His reasoning was sound: he’d heard rumors of potential war with Britain—a concern that proved prophetic given events in 1812. He feared that his important journals, which he planned to present to Congress, could fall into enemy hands if he traveled by sea.

While this cautiousness might sound a bit outlandish to modern ears, we have to consider the times. Lewis and Clark had traversed vast lands, parts of which were previously known only to Native peoples. They had meticulously mapped out the headwaters of the Missouri and gathered other vital geographical information that both the Spanish (who held territories in California and the Texas area) and the British (who posed a significant threat) were keenly interested in. Lewis rightly feared that if this intelligence fell into enemy hands, it could be used against America. Therefore, he decided there would be less chance of encountering spies and British or Spanish foes if he avoided the bustling port of New Orleans. This, tragically, would prove to be a deadly decision. As we mentioned before, the Trace was already notorious as a dangerous road, especially for anyone carrying valuables.

He was initially accompanied by John Pernia, Major James Neelly – the US Indian agent to the Chickasaw, and Neelly’s enslaved servant. 

On the evening of October 10th, John Pernia and Neelly’s enslaved servant found accommodations at The Grinder’s Stand, which is about 75 miles south of Nashville.  This was a small log cabin inn that provided lodging on the trace.  You can visit a replica of the Grinder’s Stand at the Meriwether Lewis site today.  James Neelly remained farther south, supposedly looking for horses that escaped the previous night.

Lewis left Fort Pickering on September 29th with John Pernia, Major James Neelly- the US Indian agent to the Chickasaw- and Neelly’s enslaved servant. 

Lewis stayed in the cabin while Pernia and Neelly’s enslaved servant stayed in the stables. Mrs. Grinder and her children stayed in the kitchen separate from the house. 

This is where the mystery begins…in the middle of the night Mrs. Grinder claims she heard gunshots.  By sunrise on October 11, 1809, Lewis was dead. While accounts tried to argue it was suicide, when you really begin to unravel the case it becomes obvious that it was most likely murder.

Over the years many investigators have researched what happened and have different suppositions about suicide or murder. Most have come to the conclusion it was murder, but there are varying views on who was involved.  My personal guess would be Neelly and Pernia were in on it together with Mrs. Grinder paid to be quiet.  But it is hard to know. 

Thomas Jefferson bought the suicide story, based on Pernia’s testimony. Lewis was prone to depression, but so are others and if you look into how he was shot and the bullet wounds per my research it would have been hard to shoot yourself where he did.

Mrs. Grinder changed her story multiple times, and some of the evidence used to indicate Lewis had begun having paranoia in Memphis later turned out to be forgery.  When Neelly arrived later in the day, he arranged to have Lewis buried a few hundred yards from Grinder’s Stand.  In the 1920s, President Calvin Coolidge ordered the monument to Lewis to be constructed.

I tend to think he was murdered, but we’ll probably never know the whole story. So we can say a prayer for the memory of this great American and pay homage when visiting Grinders Stand.

More insight into the mystery here.

I recently discovered that Calvin Coolidge was a direct descendant of Thomas Jefferson, so it’s a relevant connection in helping to memorialize something that helped Jefferson in exploring the west.

When I lived in Nashville, I’d often leave flowers to pay my respects to Lewis and the other men and women who are buried in this cemetery.

You can learn about Meriwether Lewis, The Grinder Stand and learn about area hikes and sights in the nearby visitor center. 

• Helpful Hint, there is a campground near The Meriwether Lewis site, which is a good spot to pitch a tent if you want to camp.

If you want to return to Nashville, you can simply turn around and drive north on the parkway – same road but you’ll catch a slightly different perspective.  Or we often would exit off at Hohenwald.

Hohenwald – Natchez Hideaway

Originally founded by Swiss/German immigrants who were recruited to come to this area by a land developing company, Hohenwald is a charming town worth exploring.  It’s name means ‘High Forest’ in German!

It is home to one of the largest Elephant Sanctuaries in the world. From their mission statement: “The Sanctuary is honored to provide lifelong care for elephants. The changing needs of elephants as they age require lifetime care plans. The shared commitment to each elephant’s health and well-being often leads to beneficial collaboration with other elephant facilities and owners.”

Though closed to the public, you can learn about the elephants and see a live feed of the sanctuary at The Elephant Discovery Center.  This museum helps you to learn about elephants, their threatened habitat and how you can help do your part to save the elephants.

Must See in Hohenwald is the Lewis County Natural History Museum and Discovery Center, where you can learn about the region’s natural and human history. They have a great exhibit on Meriwether Lewis. Plan Your Visit Here

Downtown has several delicious eateries, including Kilpatrick’s or Junkyard Dog Steakhouse

If you are looking for a nice place to spend the night, Hohenwald is home to several local bed and breakfasts including

The cozy High Forest Guesthouse, a charming 1920s home in the heart of downtown Hohenwald, offers two lovely suites.  This home is packed with history and modern elegance perfect for any traveler seeking respite after a long day exploring the Trace.  According to their website, the home was built by local businessman Luther Voorhies.  I definitely recommend checking out this quaint spot. Book your room here.

Another local recommendation is the Meriwether’s Retreat Bed and Breakfast, which pays homage to Lewis with impeccably appointed rooms, comfort and old-fashioned customer service.  You can make reservations by calling the owners.  For more info

Depending on how you choose to return from Hohenwald area to Nashville, there are several other cool historic towns to check out, which I’ll work on incorporating into future posts including:

• Mt. Pleasant TN – ‘The Phosphate Capital of the World,’ Mt. Pleasant one of the cutest Main Street’s in TN, Mt. Pleasant is home to many historic homes.  It’s a hidden gem worth exploring. Official Website
• Columbia TN – History is alive in Columbia…check out their Official Website to Plan Your Trip. Don’t forget to visit the Home of Columbia’s most famous resident: President James Polk 
• Stop by Franklin, TN

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Up next we’ll continue to journey into Middle Tennessee, before heading east to Asheville NC and The Biltmore Estate.

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 Meet Adele Lassiter, the travel enthusiast behind American Nomad Traveler. This blog is where she shares her love for history, cool museums, art, and travel tips. And when she’s not writing, Adele is also a talented singer-songwriter with a passion for Americana music. Her new album is available here: adelelassiter.bandcamp.com