Today on American Nomad, our Tennessee adventures continue as we explore Franklin, the charming historic town located just twenty minutes south of Nashville. This vibrant community truly has it all: from beautifully preserved historic houses and cool local shops to delicious eateries and, of course, incredible music. Franklin offers a welcome calmer pace compared to Nashville’s hubbub, expertly blending small-town vibes with urban sophistication. It’s truly one of my favorite spots in Tennessee because it genuinely offers something for everyone.
While there are several ways to reach Franklin from Nashville, we’re going to take the scenic route, traversing the beautiful Natchez Trace Parkway. This National Parkway is similar to The Blue Ridge Parkway, it is a scenic roadway cutting through multiple states and geographical regions of the southeast as it makes its way from Nashville to historic Natchez Mississippi. Driving on the Natchez Trace makes you feel as though you are transported back in time. The byway meanders through the hilly countryside of wide open meadows and dense forests, where you can stop for photo ops at roadside vistas. We’ll explore Fun things to do on The Natchez Parkway’s Nashville District in an upcoming post.
Before merging on The Natchez Trace, I recommend fueling up with delicious Tennessee cooking at The Loveless Cafe. The Loveless has earned a reputation around the world for their legendary biscuits. Many diners stop in hoping to catch a glimpse of local celebrities (the restaurant walls are adorned with celebrities who have eaten at The Loveless). I have celiac, so no biscuits for me – but man do I love their blackberry jam. It is some of the best I’ve ever tasted.
As you head down The Natchez Trace, be prepared for stunning aerial views as you cross the Natchez Trace Parkway Bridge. This bridge provides excellent views of the forest and country roads below from 145 feet. The bridge’s concrete double arch design was revolutionary when it was built in 1994 and has won many awards for a modern aesthetic that fits into the natural topography as well.
We’ll dig deeper into The Trace on an upcoming adventure. Don’t forget to subscribe to stay in the loop.
Getting to downtown Franklin is simple: just follow the signs from the parkway exit. As you approach, you’ll immediately spot the defining circular town center. This isn’t your typical square, but a charming roundabout featuring a central statue, encircled by historic shops, government offices, and inviting homes. It really brings to mind other pre-Civil War towns, like Gettysburg. You’ll find limited street parking downtown, so keep an eye out for the convenient parking decks.
Downtown Franklin’s historic district spans over sixteen blocks and is highly walkable. It has been nicknamed ‘America’s favorite Main Street.’ As you meander down main street you’ll discover local restaurants, coffee shops, dress and gift shops as well as the restored Franklin Theatre. I remember when they began restoring the theatre while I was in college in hopes of hosting live music and theatre there. Over a decade later, the theatre is flourishing with a wide variety of shows from musicians like Sheryl Crow and Phil Vassar to Broadway style plays.
Fun fact: many famous songwriters live in Franklin and often perform their hit songs in local songwriter nights including places like Puckett’s (Leiper’s Fork and Franklin locations), you can also discover amazing up and coming talent as well.
As you step out of your car and begin to meander Franklin’s streets, you can feel the weight of history that has unfolded here. It draws you in, prompting you to dig deeper into Franklin’s past. If you have time, I highly recommend participating in one of the many historic walking tours of Franklin. My mom and I have enjoyed several of these over the years and learned so much about Franklin’s founding, its early residents, and the city’s tragic and bloody traumas during The Civil War.
Recommended Tours:
Franklin Walking Tours – took their history tour and it was fantastic!
Grayline’s Hop on and Hop Off Tour
About Franklin’s History:
Franklin was founded in 1799. If you remember from previous posts, Tennessee wasn’t permanently settled until the 1760s, first in Jonesborough and Greeneville near the now NC border and eventually Nashville and other communities emerged. In spite of its frontier roots, the population of Tennessee boomed in the early 1800s. By The Civil War, Franklin was one of the wealthiest cities and sophisticated cities in Tennessee. Two U.S. Presidents visited Franklin, including James Polk when lived nearby in Columbia TN (stay tuned for a future post as we tour his historic home).
Franklin was named for Benjamin Franklin. According to the town website this is because, Williamson County, named after, Dr. Hugh Williamson, who served in the Continental Congress was a friend of Franklin’s. Dr. Hugh Williamson was from North Carolina, he served three terms in the Continental Congress and had been a patriot colonel for North Carolina. Franklin is the town seat of Williamson County. Learn more about Williamson County history here.
While studying at Belmont University in Nashville, I attended a lecture about The State of Franklin, which we dug into during our visits to Jonesborough and Greeneville. The lecturer said that while Franklin TN was established long after the 1784-85 State of Franklin, the town wanted to pay homage to those early Franklanders (as they called themselves). Either way, having a sage like Franklin as a namesake is a good option.
Until the Civil War, Franklin, though sophisticated and home to many state and national political figures like three secretaries of War, still maintained a quaint and peaceful calm. Its economy was mostly tied to the nearby plantations, trade and city courts.
Unfortunately with the advent of The Civil War, so many citizens of The United States were forced into horrendous circumstances. Tennessee, though a Confederate state, had many Union sympathizers. As you study the history of Franklin or any town in the midst of the war, you’ll hear stories of brother against brother – each clinging to what they thought was right.
As we learned in our Nashville Downtown History Tour, much of Middle Tennessee came under Union control fairly early, by 1862 and 1863. Franklin itself fell to Union troops after a relatively small battle (about 200 total dead on both sides) on April 10th, 1863. Union forces then occupied the city. Despite occasional threats of Confederate skirmishes and raids, both Nashville and Franklin remained largely peaceful until the monumental Battles of Franklin and Nashville in late 1864.
We often think about battles being fought in wide open fields, where the armies gather and set up their positions, but in The Civil War, several battles including Gettysburg were also fought in neighboring towns, which means you have local citizens thrust into the middle of gun and cannon fire, or forced to become centers to care for the injured soldiers on both sides.
Fought on November 30th, 1864, the Battle of Franklin pitted Confederate General John Bell Hood’s Army of Tennessee’s 30,000 troops against Union General John M. Schofield’ smaller army of 27,000. Hood, who had lost Atlanta in September of 1864, marched through Franklin in hopes of reaching Nashville to retake the capital city. Nashville was under the Union and Military Governor Andrew Johnson.
En route to Nashville, Hood’s Confederates met opposition from Schofield’s Union army.
Schofield’s small army of about 27,000 was nearly flanked, or cut off, near Spring Hill, Tennessee, on the late afternoon and early evening of November 29, 1864. The Confederate forces missed a tremendous opportunity to deal Schofield a serious blow. Spring Hill ultimately set the stage for Franklin, and it haunted the memories of many for decades.
Federal troops began to arrive on the outskirts of Franklin around dawn on November 30, 1864.
Because the two bridges spanning the Harpeth River north of town were impassable, engineers hurriedly worked to prepare the bridges for a withdrawal. Meanwhile, the blue-clad soldiers began to throw up earthworks south of town. Around the same time, after discovering the enemy had slipped away, the Confederates initiated a hurried march north from Spring Hill in pursuit of the Federal army.
At sunup, Federal Brig. Gen. Jacob D. Cox decided to set up his headquarters in the Carter House, notifying the Carter family who were forced to hide in the basement for safety.
By noon the bulk of The Federal Army had organized into a defensive line just over a mile in length, anchored by the Harpeth River on both flanks.
By 2 pm, Union forces were ordered to begin their withdrawal to Nashville at 6 p.m., intending to bolster the city’s defenses. But Confederate General Hood, seeing this as his final chance to defeat Schofield’s army before it reached Nashville, instead launched a desperate frontal assault on Franklin.
As the fires of rage began to ignite, ironically many eyewitness accounts remember how beautiful that November day was…an Indian Summer warm and bright. Yet this peaceful day, quickly became hell on earth, as one of the bloodiest days of The Civil War and erupted.
By 4pm approximately 20,000 Confederate soldiers launched a full frontal assault against a similar number of Federal troops. Heavy artillery fire decimated Confederate lines, but the attack quickly became a ‘headlong charge.’
This was brutal, savage fighting, that makes Game of Thrones seem like child’s play. All the while you have local citizens hiding in their homes, or trying to help the wounded or fighting on their chosen side. Hand-to-hand fighting and gunfire went on into darkness, with only gunfire illuminating the terror of the night.
The day itself was beautiful. The skies were clear that afternoon and the temperature pushed to nearly sixty degrees. Many described it as a beautiful “Indian summer afternoon” while others said it was warm and bright. But at 4 pm everything changed as roughly 20,000 Confederate soldiers began their advance toward a similar number of Federal troops. Artillery fire soon began shrieking toward the Southern line and gaping holes were ripped into the gray and butternut ranks. The Confederate attack quickly morphed into a headlong charge. The two armies came into close contact shortly before 4:30 pm and the fighting became brutal and fiendishly savage. Waves of Southern troops were shot down, even as some of them ruptured the center of the Federal line. Scores of Federal troops were shot and clubbed as howling and jubilant Southerners plowed forward. Casualties were severe and mounted quickly. The sun set soon after the battle reached its apex and it was completely dark only a few minutes after 5 pm, except for the flashing of the guns.
By midnight, the Federal army withdrew, leaving a devastated town and a shattered Confederate army. Total casualties reached about 10,000 soldiers dead or injured. 6,252 of the 8,578 who casualties were confederates. 1748 of those confederate casualties died, including six generals Patrick Cleburne, John Adams, States Rights Gist (yes and that was his name, I had to triple check…his parents strongly believed in States Rights), Otho Strahl, and Hiram Granbury, and John C. Carter who was mortally wounded and died on December 10th.
- Interesting fact: When I think of a casualty, I think of a death, but in studying wars casualties often refer to the combined deaths, wounded and captured.
There were horrible injuries on both sides and every home in Franklin became a hospital, where Union and Confederate troops were treated. The Carter Plantation, was ironically the home of one of the Confederate dead, Tod Carter. Tod was the middle child of the Carter family, having enlisted in the Confederate army three years earlier, Carter had returned to his hometown for the first time since leaving home, only to die a few hundred yards from his. He was found by his family after the battle, and died early in the next day.
One eyewitness said of the Battle of Franklin: “as if the devil had full possession of the earth.” In studying The Civil War I often think about this – what a terrible loss of life on both sides and the hell that came to Franklin that November day.
Today you can tour many sites to Franklin’s Civil War History, including over 200 acres of ‘the lost battlefield’ that have been saved and reclaimed through preservation efforts.
Places to learn about The Battle of Franklin:
*Carter Plantation, Rippavilla and Carnton Plantation are all run by the wonderful Battle of Franklin Trust and you can purchase combo tickets on their website.
The Carter House: Step back in time to this pivotal site of The Battle of Franklin, where you can stand at ground zero for where Federal Brig. Gen. Jacob D. Cox took over the home as a headquarters, while the Carter family and other locals sought refuge in the basement during the intense fighting. While these walls can physically talk, they endured one of the most terrible days in Franklin’s history. You can learn about The Carter Family who owned a farm, visiting the house and its three surviving outbuildings (farm office, smokehouse and kitchen). Learn about the lives of the Carters, who sided with the Confederacy. Meet their son Tod, who tragically died in The Battle of Franklin, just several hundred feet from his home, after being gone from home for three years. Learn about how it served as a hospital for the wounded. For information about guided tours check here.
Carnton Plantation: This is a must-see for history buffs in Franklin. Like The Carter House, Carnton Plantation tells a tragic story of the effects of the Civil War on Franklin. This beautiful 11-room brick Federal-style residence was completed in 1826 by Randal McGavock. Built on a raised limestone foundation, the southern-facing entrance façade is a two-story, five-bay block. It features a side-facing gabled roof, covered in tin, with two dormer windows and slightly projecting end chimneys. A central two-story pedimented portico in the Greek Revival-style was added in 1847 by McGavock’s son John McGavock
During The Battle of Franklin, Carnton became a field hospital for tending the wounded. More than 1750 Confederate soldiers died in Franklin, many were laid out near the Carnton plantation, including four deceased Confederate generals left on their back porch. While the bucolic grounds seem peaceful today, you can still see remnants of the devastation, blood can still be found from the battle in the house’s floors.
Interesting read: The 2005 best-selling novel, The Widow of the South by Robert Hicks tells the story of Carnton owner Carrie McGavock.
When browsing their website, the ‘All Men Created Equal Tour’ immediately caught my eye. It promises to thoughtfully explore the challenging questions surrounding the Civil War’s origins, including slavery and states’ rights, prompting a deeper ponderance on the very meaning of equality. I always struggle with the Civil War’s complexities. I had ancestors on both sides, including the Grimke Sisters – abolitionists from South Carolina who moved to Philadelphia to fight against slavery, a legacy I’m incredibly proud of. But I also understand the necessity of viewing history through multiple lenses, acknowledging the good, the bad, and the ugly from every perspective. This tour seems to cover that well, and I hope to take it next time I’m at Carnton.
This 90-minute tour of the house and grounds follows the United States from its Founding to the Civil War. You will learn about the Declaration of Independence and Thomas Jefferson, and the decades-long struggle over the very meaning of equality, as the country slowly drifted apart over the issue of African slavery. You will also learn about the generations of landowners who shaped this region, including Randal McGavock (Carnton), Francis Carter (Carter House), and Nathaniel Cheairs (Rippa Villa), all of whom settled in Middle Tennessee around the dawn of the 19th century, and whose families felt the profound impact of the Civil War.
Purchase your tour tickets here
Lotz House: This Greek Revival Home in the center of Franklin, on Columbia Street was built in 1858 by German immigrant Albert Lotz, who was a skilled craftsman and laborer. As the battle raged, he and his family fled to the nearby Carter House, where they hid in the basement with The Carter family for five hours. The south wall of Lotz’s house was blasted away and cannon fire created holes in the roof and the floors, but it could still be used as a field hospital as Lotz supervised the house repairs. Lotz’s daughter became a talented artist later in life, which you learn about on the tour. Plan your visit here.
Rippavilla: In Spring Hill not far from Franklin, this historic home is also run by the Battle of Franklin Trust. It was part of the preliminary action in The Battle of Springhill. You can also learn about its history as a working plantation and the Cheairs family who built it as well as the stories of the enslaved labor who worked it. The tour does an excellent job of telling the story of all those who lived and worked on the plantation.
Plan your tour here
McGavock Confederate Cemetery https://www.mcgavockcemetery.org/
I researched that many of the Union dead were buried in shallow graves and some remain in Franklin, but many were moved to other burial grounds including Murfreesboro.
The Moore-Morris History and Cultural Center of Williamson County: The Moore-Morris History & Culture Center is Williamson County’s new, state-of-the-art, interactive exhibition space dedicated to telling its regional history and stories of the people, places, and events that comprise the fabric of our community.
Housed within a National Register of Historic Places building dating to 1905, the Center preserves, interprets, and exhibits artifacts and immersive narratives related to the social, economic, and cultural history of the county’s regional and national influence.
Want to learn more about The Battle of Franklin? I recommend these online resources:
American Battlefield Trust – Battle of Franklin
Modern Era Fun…
Today, thankfully the Town of Franklin is a peaceful getaway with a diverse culture and lots of fun activities throughout the year for the whole family. You can check out the latest Franklin events and access travel resources on their website: visitfranklin.com
Here are a few of my favorite Downtown Franklin spots
- Franklin Theatre
- JJ’s Wine Bar: Located in an historic home, this wine bar is the perfect spot to catch up with friends http://www.jjswinebar.com/
- McCreary’s Irish Pub and Eatery – locally owned with great Irish pub food and a fun place for the whole family. https://mccrearyspub.com/
- Downtown Franklin has tons of great local coffee shops – Check out the list here. I am a big Frothy Monkey fan (also in Nashville), in fact I’m sipping on Frothy Monkey coffee I bought in Nashville during my last trip. For a pure Franklin experience I gravitate towards Onyx and Alabaster and Merridee.
- Frozen Yogurt: Sounds crazy but in my neck of the woods we don’t have much frozen yogurt, so no trip to Franklin for me is complete with a trip to Sweet CeCe’s in the heart of downtown Franklin.
These are just a few of the many highlights of Downtown Franklin.
Outdoor Fun:
Franklin’s proximity to The Harpeth River and Natchez Trace make it the perfect basecamp for Tennessee outdoor adventures. You can go float down The Harpeth River or hike many trails in the area.
Pinkerton Park is a favorite hiking area for me…check out Visit Franklin’s guide to local parks/outdoor access here.
Nearby:
The Factory at Franklin has cool shops and dining options not far from downtown.
Franklin is an amazing city that is a destination in its own right. Many visitors from Nashville overlook Franklin in their tour itinerary, but don’t make this mistake. It is part of the lifeblood of Middle Tennessee and a thriving and vibrant community that begs exploration.
Next up on American Nomad, we’ll continue exploring the greater Nashville – Middle TN area, including a post on The Natchez Trace and other cool area towns to visit
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Meet Adele Lassiter, the travel enthusiast behind American Nomad Traveler. This blog is where she shares her love for history, cool museums, art, and travel tips. And when she’s not writing, Adele is also a talented singer-songwriter with a passion for Americana music. Her new album is available here: adelelassiter.bandcamp.com
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