In today’s edition of American Nomad Traveler, we’re continuing our Tennessee adventures with a stop in historic Columbia Tennessee. Only forty-five minutes south of Nashville off I-65, Columbia is the perfect getaway for a day trip or overnight excursion. Located near the banks of the beautiful Duck River, in the middle of Maury County’s ambling farmland, Columbia is a vibrant community with a heroic and tragic past that is worth diving into.
Today the thriving downtown is home to eclectic local shops and cool coffee houses, restaurants and live music events. Columbia’s known as the Mule Capital of the World, because in the early-to-mid 1800s the region was home to large mule breeding operations. In the 1840s, a livestock show and mule market began in Columbia called ‘Breeder’s Day.’ By 1933, this annual event, under the suggestion of local Thomas Marion Brown, expanded into a multi-day festival and parade celebration called ‘Mule Day.’ Since its first inception as a festival in 1934, Mule Day has grown into a world renowned event, attracting over 200,000 people into Downtown Columbia every April. The parade features live mules and combines live music, entertainment while still maintaining the history of the breeders day with agricultural events as well.
Plan your own Mule Day adventure here
The Past and Present Collide in Columbia:
Columbia is the county seat of Maury County, a beautiful section of southern Middle Tennessee with lush farmland cut by rivers and creeks. Driving the scenic backroads of Maury County is one of my favorite Tennessee adventures as you can explore local culture, small town charm and historical sites.
Maury County was first designated in 1807 and named in honor of Abram Maury Sr., who helped found Williamson County and Franklin (just north of Maury County).
The town of Columbia was plotted out near the Duck River in 1807. The Duck River is the longest River entirely in Tennessee. It winds from areas of the Natchez Trace into Columbia, east towards Manchester TN. Fun fact: In Manchester, you can visit Old Stone Fort on The Duck River, where you can see ancient Indian mounds from The Mississippian Culture.
The rich soil here led to a thriving agricultural industry in the 19th century, with large plantations and smaller working farms cropping up, as they raised and processed cotton, tobacco, and livestock. Sadly, much of this work was done with enslaved labor, a complex and often painful aspect of its past. Columbia’s historic sites, however, are committed to telling the stories of all peoples, providing a crucial lens into the lives of everyone who lived and worked in the region during that time. Each old house can mesmerize us with its architectural beauty, while also revealing stories from a joyful and tragic past.
Today you can travel through Columbia’s history at historical homes and museums that tell the story of this diverse and unique town.
Starting Your Columbia TN Adventure:
Upon arriving in Columbia, I recommend first fueling up for your day with a stop by the amazing locally coffee shop Mule Town Roasters. Their coffee and tea is excellent. I personally love their pour over coffees. Great start to your day in Columbia.
After getting your morning energy, stop by Columbia’s amazing Welcome Center, located in the heart of historic downtown. This center has a wealth of travel planning information and staff to help you navigate all Columbia has to offer. The Welcome Center also has visual arts displays, cultural exhibits and the historic Polk Motel Sign that was a beloved roadside feature in a bygone era of motor hotel signs.
Travel through History
When I lived in Nashville, my mom and I enjoyed visiting Columbia to take in the historic architecture and sites like the home of our eleventh president, James Knox Polk, who lived in Columbia.
Columbia and Maury County have more antebellum homes than anywhere else in TN, most are well preserved and open for occasional tours.
Start your historical journey at The James K. Polk House – Home to the 11th President of the United States.
Located in downtown Columbia, The Polk House is a MUST-See for history lovers. Outside of The White House, it is the only surviving residence of James K. Polk. The painted brick home is considered of the best examples of Federal-style architecture in Tennessee
- Federal Architecture: Federal architecture is a style of classical architecture that emerged in the United States after the Revolutionary War, roughly between 1780 and 1830. It’s often characterized by a simple, elegant design with an emphasis on symmetry, balance, and classical details
Built in 1816 by James’ father Samuel Polk, who was a successful farmer and surveyor in the barely decade old community of Columbia, James lived in the home for several years with his parents after completing his education at The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill in 1818.
- One of my favorite parts of the exhibit (when I last visited) was a letter Polk wrote to his parents politely asking for money at school. I was a student at Belmont at the time and while I worked hard at a part-time job and as a full time student, I think any college student could identify with his letter. It humanized this giant of a president and encouraged me.
Polk sat for The Tennessee Bar and opened his own law practice in Columbia in 1820. His skill as an attorney led him to be elected to the Tennessee State Legislature in 1823. He continued to live in his parent’s home until 1824, when he married the lovely Sarah Childress. They built a home down the street, which was sadly destroyed in a fire in the late 19th-century.
From 1825-1839, Polk served in Congress as Speaker of the House, partially under his colleague and mentor Andrew Jackson. He moved to Nashville from 1839 to 1841 to serve as the Governor of Tennessee.
His Nashville home, Polk Place, which Polk loved and where he was originally buried, was tragically torn down in 1901 when conservationists couldn’t save it from demolition. (Family squabbling and court issues led to its sale to a developer—a reminder that we must be vocal about saving history when it matters!) It was replaced by an apartment building. Fortunately, a Polk heir left many of the cherished items from Polk Place to The Polk House in Columbia
When you tour the home and museum exhibits, you’ll learn tons of fascinating information about the life of this dynamic leader. Polk was born in Pineville North Carolina, which commemorates his early years in North Carolina at the Polk Birthplace Historic Site (stay turned for a future post as I plan to visit in a few months).
Cool connections: As a Raleigh, NC native we honor Polk at our Capital as an NC born and educated President, along with Andrew Jackson and Andrew Johnson – each who made their political careers in Tennessee. The Polk House in Raleigh was owned by his cousin Leonidas Lafayette Polk . James K. Polk’s cousin, William Polk was an ardent North Carolina patriot involved in the Mecklenburg Resolves of May 1775, and was a famous Colonel in the Revolutionary War and War of 1812. His son, Leonidas was a well-respected Bishop, who along with other Polk relatives moved to Maury County. We’ll highlight his church St. John’s Episcopal later in this post.
What impressed me the most about The Polk House is the passion and expertise of the guides who truly bring this history to life. You hear stories about the Polk family – their joys and trials, Polk’s political career and ascension to the presidency, to his tragic death immediately after resigning as President (he only wanted to serve one term.)
Polk is considered by many historians to be one of the best presidents because he completed all of his campaign promises in one term before stepping down from office and returning to Columbia. His legacy defining achievement was land expansion. As President he oversaw the largest territorial expansion in American history – over a million square miles of land, which was acquired from U.S. victory in The Mexican-American War and a treaty with England.
He obtained his goal and did what he promised for the American people, only to perish in June 1849 in Nashville from the dreaded cholera. His legacy remains as a persistent leader who followed through on his policies, which expanded America.
To book your tour visit their website.
They have a lovely gift shop as well.
We spent a few hours at his home, thoroughly enjoying learning about its history.
One of the most iconic sites in Columbia is the magnificent Maury County Courthouse. Built in 1906, this is the fifth courthouse in Columbia. While it is undeniably a beautiful photographic subject, its long history as a seat of justice and a central gathering space also means it carries a profound and painful past. Here, visitors can learn about tragic events like the lynching of Henry Choate in 1927, which occurred right at this site. Post-World War II, Columbia also grappled with race riots. However, the town has actively worked to face this past and build a brighter future, with exhibits throughout town dedicated to telling these challenging stories in hopes of learning from history.
Visiting Columbia and Maury County’s Historic Homes:
Historic Maury County is an excellent resource for learning about and planning your visit to the important historical homes and sites throughout the region. They are a phenomenal organization that keeps this important history alive and accessible.
Atheneum: Considered a historical gem in Maury County, the Historic Athenaeum. This beautiful Greek-Revival home was built in 1837 by Nathan Vaught, the ‘Master Builder of Maury County,’ for Samuel Polk Walker, a nephew of President James Polk, but Walker never lived in the home, instead offering it to Episcopal Rev. Franklin Gillette Smith, who had moved to Columbia with his wife Sarah and their children to teach at the Columbia Female Institute. Smith taught here until 1852, when he opened his own school, ‘The Athenaeum’ named for Athena the goddess of knowledge, symbolically the seat of knowledge. While he was a reverend, this was the first private school for girls not to be affiliated with religion. The Girls that attended learned everything that a well brought-up man would have learned including sciences, maths, foreign languages, how to play musical instruments and etiquette.
You can imagine this was very progressive in its time.
The Athenaeum would operate until 1904, then the property was sold to the City of Columbia for use as a public school. The neighboring Columbia Institute would continue to operate until the Great Depression forced its doors to close.
The Athenaeum School was razed in 1915 to build the first Columbia Central High School. The Institute burned in 1959 and was a total loss. Smith’s home, the historic Athenaeum Rectory, is all that remains of both schools.
This is a NOT to Miss Site in Columbia
Rattle and Snap
This resplendent 1840s Greek Revival Home, in my opinion, is one of the most beautiful in the south. While privately owned, the owners are gracious enough to host tours by appointment. The legend is that Polk, one of the sons of famed Revolutionary and War of 1812 Colonel William Polk, and cousin of President James K. Polk won the land for the plantation in a game of rattle and snap (a game of chance from the era). Much of the beautiful architecture is due to the enslaved workers who helped build it. George Polk and his family lived there for fifteen years, selling it in 1867 to Joseph Granberry who renamed it Oakwood Hall. The Granberry’s owned it until 1920. It continues to be privately owned.
To book your Rattle and Snap tour click here
Rippavilla: We visited this Spring Hill Plantation briefly during our tour of Historic Franklin. Rippavilla played a key role in the Battle of Spring Hill, a town in between Columbia and Franklin. This is a beautiful home with important history. It is managed by the Battle of Franklin Historic Trust. Official Website
Historic St. John’s Episcopal Church
This beautiful brick Episcopal Church was consecrated in 1842 by the first Episcopal Bishop of Tennessee. The church was built by Leonidas Polk, Missionary Bishop of the Southwest and his three brothers, George, Lucius and Rufus – who were cousins of President Polk.
It was used a plantation church for the Polk family and enslaved people. During the Civil War it served as a Confederate Hospital. The Union troops did not do extensive harm to the church, but did carry off the organ pipes. The church burial ground originally was the final resting place of Confederate Generals Cleburne, Granbury and Strahl, before they were moved to other states.
Since 1921, services are held only once a year on Whitsunday – the Feast of Pentecost.
When I lived in Nashville we took a tour of the church with our local parish. You can drive by and walk the grounds (check before you go) and they do offer occasional tours. It is owned by The Episcopal Diocese of Tennessee – St. Peter’s Episcopal in Columbia is another beautiful church as well. Stop in and stay a prayer and find peace for the road.
Get Outdoors – Nature in Columbia area
Drive the Trace: Columbia is not far from The Natchez Trace, if you are looking to explore portions of the scenic parkway (as visited in our last blog), Columbia is a good base camp.
Discover Riverwalk Park, a dynamic urban oasis a short walk from downtown Columbia’s Square. Situated on the banks of the biodiverse Duck River, the park boasts a paved mile-long path, a splash pad, basketball court, and bookable pavilions. It’s a bustling community space hosting everything from the Muletown Barbecue Cook-off and Farmers Market (Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays) to concerts and ‘Movies in the Park’.
Floating on The Duck River is a popular pastime in the area. The Duck River is the longest river entirely in TN at 284 miles. I also found out that is one of three most biodiverse rivers in the world! The Nature Conservancy and other local organizations are working hard to protect this important river.
Two floating companies recommended to me were River Rat Canoe and Higher Pursuits
Henry Horton State Park – Explore hiking trails, boating, an on-site restaurant and so much more at this family-friendly state park located only thirty-five minutes east of Columbia. They also have a great lodge and cabins if you want to spend the night there.
Stillhouse Hollow Falls – about thirty minutes south of Columbia – this beautiful state natural area provides access to the dramatic 75 foot falls. One of many natural wonders in Middle Tennessee. Learn more here
Get Artsy in Columbia TN
From local artists to songwriters, Columbia is a thriving arts community. I recommend checking out The Columbia Arts District, where you can shop from local artisans and artists in a rustic and revitalized building only a few blocks from the Town Square. For more info
Columbia State College also has a lovely art gallery on campus – Pryor Art Gallery
Where to Stay:
While you can easily enjoy a long day trip to Columbia from Nashville, why not stay a night or two in this charming town and really enjoy the local food and shoppings along with the history? Columbia has several chain hotels, but I recommend checking into the quaint and charming local bed and breakfasts. A few locally recommended favorites are:
Blythewood Bed and Breakfast: This 1858 Antebellum home is a rare example of the French Colonial style akin to New Orleans. Each room is filled with history and is beautifully decorated in period designs without sacrificing modern convenience or comfort. Highly recommend checking into this charming bed and breakfast. Learn more and book your stay here.
Two Lanes Guesthouse: Cool loft rental near downtown that was restored by American Picker’s Mike Wolfe for more information click here.
The Inn at Biggby: quaint inn with southern hospitality. Book Your Stay Here
Good Eats:
Columbia is packed with delicious eats to satisfy every palate. While we stopped at one of my favorite coffee spots at Mule Roasters, Columbia has tons of great local coffee shops and bakeries. I recommend trying them all. Each has its own character and flavors. Here is the Official Columbia Tourism guide to restaurants.
When planning your Columbia adventures – don’t forget to bookmark VisitColumbiaTN.com – it provides a wealth of information and guidance for your trip planning.
I hope this post has you excited to plan your own Columbia TN adventure. Next up we’ll be exploring Natural Wonders in Tennessee’s Cookeville and Cumberland areas before heading to Asheville and Bilmore for a special King Tut Exhibit.
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Meet Adele Lassiter, the travel enthusiast behind American Nomad Traveler. This blog is where she shares her love for history, cool museums, art, and travel tips. And when she’s not writing, Adele is also a talented singer-songwriter with a passion for Americana music. Her new album is available here: adelelassiter.bandcamp.com
