In our last post, we did a deep dive historical travel itinerary digging into everything from the origins of the name ‘Cape Fear’ to the high-stakes drama of the Stamp Act Crisis, to Burning of Fort Johnston and Battle of Moores Creek Bridge to British Occupation and beyond.
We met leading patriots like Sons of Liberty leader Cornelius Harnett to Declaration of Independence Signer William Hooper and the notorious British Major James Craig. For the deep dive, click here.
While the deeper historical foundation is essential for understanding the ‘why’ behind the sights, I know that once your boots are actually on the ground, a ‘pocket guide’ is what you really need. Think of this as Cornelius Harnett’s Cliff Notes Guide to your Cape Fear Travels: a streamlined, mobile-friendly guide to the essential stops on our Revolutionary tour, designed to help you navigate the history in real-time.
Wilmington – Heartbeat of the Cape Fear
Our Revolutionary Cape Fear Road Trip begins on the iconic Riverwalk in the heart of downtown Wilmington. Because the city is built on a tight, logical grid, we’ll be exploring this portion of the tour on foot. Wilmington boasts a 230-block historic district—one of the largest in the country—though much of its earliest skyline was lost to a devastating fire in 1798. Today, only about half a dozen Colonial-era structures remain, but the real magic is the ‘history underfoot.’ The streets and foundations remain much as they were in the 1770s, allowing you to literally walk in the footsteps of the revolutionaries who built this city.
Harnett’s Pocket Tip: > “Look down! Many of the alleyways and retaining walls in this district are made of ballast stones—heavy rocks used to steady ships coming from Europe. When the ships came into port they’d dump the ballast and it was reused for construction as it provides a sturdy foundation against hurricanes, fires, etc…
Stop 1: Cape Fear Riverwalk (The Waterfront)
Cape Fear Riverwalk: A Journey Through Time
Begin Your Journey Here… This 1.75-mile riverfront path follows the banks of the historic Cape Fear River. Today, it is a bustling district where you can take a ferry, grab a meal, or view the Battleship North Carolina across the water.
However, long before the shops and boardwalks, this waterway was the lifeblood of Native American tribes and a challenge to European explorers. The river earned its name in 1585 after Sir Richard Grenville’s expedition nearly foundered on the treacherous Frying Pan Shoals. Following a short-lived attempt at ‘Charles Town’ in 1664, the river’s first permanent European settlement finally took root in 1726 at Brunswick Town—led by a family determined to tame this wild coast: the Moores (Roger and Maurice Sr.)
For decades, the region’s winding creeks provided a sanctuary for pirates like Blackbeard and the “Gentleman Pirate” Stede Bonnet, who was famously captured in 1718 after a bloody battle near present-day Southport. But by 1765, the river transformed from a pirate’s hideout into a cradle of revolution. When the HMS Diligence arrived with tax stamps, local patriots—led by the “Family” and their allies—staged the first armed protest against the Stamp Act in the colonies, a decade before the “shot heard ’round the world.”
The era of British rule reached its dramatic end right here on these waters. In 1775, Josiah Martin, the last Royal Governor, was forced to flee the mainland and seek refuge aboard the HMS Cruizer. For months, he governed the colony from a cramped ship’s cabin, watching helplessly from the deck as a patriot militia, led by my relative Robert Howe, burned Fort Johnston to the ground.
But the British weren’t finished with Wilmington. In 1781, the war came full circle when Major James Craig and the British Army occupied the city. For nearly a year, the very Riverwalk you are standing on was a British military zone. Redcoats patrolled these streets, and Lord Cornwallis was in Wilmington (April 1781), when he planned his ill-fated march toward Yorktown. From the Golden Age of Piracy to the birth of a new nation, the Cape Fear River has remained the strategic heart of North Carolina history.
Fun fact: Did you know legend has it that the only think Cornwallis liked about North Carolina were the yams (sweet potatoes)? NC is the largest producer of Sweet Potatoes in the world.
Harnett’s Pocket Tip: “As you look across the water at the Battleship, try to squint and imagine the river filled with British Men-of-War and merchant ships. In the 1770s, this river was our ‘Internet’—it brought us news of the rebellion in Boston and the tea that we eventually refused to let land on these very shores.
Stop 2: The Mitchell-Anderson House (Front and Orange Streets)
Built in 1738 by Charleston area planter and carpenter Edward Mitchell—one year before Wilmington was even officially chartered—this is the oldest standing building in the city. While many colonial-era homes were destroyed in the Great Fire of 1798, this structure survived, likely thanks to its rugged construction of brick and ballast stone (the heavy rocks used to steady ships coming up the Cape Fear).
During the Revolutionary War, it was owned by Patriot turned Loyalist Robert Hogg.
Hogg’s story perfectly illustrates the “Civil War” nature of the American Revolution in the South. He was one of Wilmington’s wealthiest citizens, controlling a massive salt-importing business—a critical resource for preserving food for any army. Hogg was a moderate who initially joined the Committee of Safety in 1774 to protest British overreach. However, as the movement turned toward total independence, Hogg’s loyalties remained with the Crown. By 1775, the political heat became too much, and he fled to England, leaving his business and this home in the hands of his Patriot-leaning brother, James.
Look Closer: As you stand at the corner, look at the foundation. Those ballast stones were likely hauled off ships owned by merchants. You are looking at the very “bones” of the 1700s port and Colonial economy. This homes prime location, so close to the Cape Fear would have made it convenient for business dealings (although perhaps not the 18th century port city smells). Today it’s a private office, but the exterior remains a silent witness to every major event in Wilmington’s history, from the Stamp Act Protests to military occupation by British troops in 1781.
Cornelius Harnett Quick Tip: While Cornelius gave up tea with the Tea Act, every good patriot needs coffee to fuel their revolutionary wanderings. Wilmington is home to over 100 coffee shops in the metro area. Downtown is hotspot for java, and if you are in need of a caffeine boost near the Mitchell-Anderson House, stop at the Front Street Inn’s Concorde Espresso and Cocktail Bar. My personal favorite are their S’mores themed drinks as they make their own marshmallows in house! I also highly recommend the Front Street Inn for a quaint historic stay in Wilmington.
Stop 3: Occupation Sign
Not far from the Mitchell-Anderson House, near Nun and Ann Streets, you’ll find a stone marker denoting the British Occupation. This area was the “Front Line” when Major James Craig’s British troops held the city in 1781.
The Strategy: Imagine these streets filled with Redcoats from January to November 1781. Just days after the British were “gut-punched” at the Battle of Cowpens, General Cornwallis realized his army was starving and low on ammunition in the interior. He ordered Major James Craig and the 82nd Regiment of Foot to seize Wilmington.
The Lifeblood: This move turned the Cape Fear River into a vital supply chain. By holding this ground, the British could funnel food and supplies from the coast to their struggling forces across the Carolinas. For nearly a year, Wilmington wasn’t a free American city—it was a British military base.
Where were the Patriots?
While the Cape Fear was a Patriot stronghold, Wilmington lacked the heavy defenses to hold off a professional British occupation without the full weight of General Nathanael Greene’s Continental Army.
The Strategic Sacrifice: Nathanael Greene made a difficult, calculated decision not to try to retake Wilmington. He knew that committing his limited forces to a coastal siege could compromise the entire Southern campaign. His plan, though painful for local families, actually worked. By keeping his army mobile, Greene forced Cornwallis into a “hollow victory” at Guilford Courthouse, eventually driving the British back to the coast at Wilmington to lick their wounds before they finally marched toward their doom at Yorktown.
The “Terror” of Major Craig
While Wilmington suffered under British rule from January to November 1781, the resistance didn’t stop—it just moved into the shadows.
Patriots like my cousin Alfred Moore used guerrilla tactics to frustrate the British. Every time Major Craig sent out a foraging party to seize the food and supplies his starving army desperately needed, they were met by “Moore’s Men” in the swamps and thickets.
Major Craig was so infuriated by these hit-and-run tactics that he made it personal. He sent troops to Alfred Moore’s plantation, Buchoi, to plunder it, burn the house to the ground, and terrorize his family. For the Moores, the occupation wasn’t just a military maneuver; it was a personal vendetta. Alfred lost his home and his fortune, but he never lost his resolve—eventually rising from the ashes of the war to become a Justice on the United States Supreme Court.
Stop 4: St. James Episcopal Church & Burial Ground
Location: Third and Market Streets
While the current Gothic Revival church building was completed in 1849, the ground it stands on is steeped in Revolutionary history. During the British Occupation of 1781, the original colonial church was desecrated by British troops, who stripped the interior to use the building as a stable, barracks, and military training hall.
Cornelius Harnett – The “Sam Adams of the South”
The “Old Burying Ground” is one of the most sacred sites in the city. It serves as the final resting place for Cornelius Harnett, a man so influential that Josiah Quincy of Boston dubbed him the “Samuel Adams of the South” during a 1773 visit to meet with local Sons of Liberty.
Harnett’s Revolutionary Legacy:
- Stamp Act Leader: He was a primary leader in the 1765–66 resistance, standing up to the British crown a full decade before the war began.
- The Halifax Resolves: Harnett was instrumental in drafting the Halifax Resolves, the document that made North Carolina the first colony to officially authorize its delegates to vote for independence.
- A Martyr for the Cause: When the British occupied the city, Cornelius Harnett was “Public Enemy Number One.” Already suffering from a crippling case of gout, Harnett tried to escape, but was hunted down, beaten, and—in a final act of humiliation—thrown across a horse like a “sack of meal.”
- He was held in a roofless blockhouse known as “Craig’s Bull-Pen,” located directly across from the Burgwin-Wright House. He wasn’t alone; my relative, General John Ashe, was also held there. Betrayed by a servant while hiding in a swamp, Ashe was shot during his capture and later contracted smallpox in the same squalid conditions. Both men were only released when death seemed imminent—martyrs who gave everything for the Cape Fear. *Today this site is a parking lot and underneath a bank!
You will also find the graves of many other Revolutionary-era Patriots and veterans of the War of 1812 within these walls. After exploring the burying ground, be sure to walk around to Fourth Street (directly behind the church) to view the towering stone monument dedicated to Harnett’s enduring legacy.
The Spoils of War: The Ecce Homo Inside the church hangs one of Wilmington’s most unique treasures: the Ecce Homo (“Behold the Man”). This 16th-century Spanish icon was captured from the ship La Fortuna after it led a daring attack on Brunswick Town in 1748. Following the Spanish defeat, the painting was awarded to the church as a trophy of war and has remained a centerpiece of its history for over 275 years.
Cornelius Harnett Monument, behind St. James on 4th Street. This obelisk pays homage to Harnett’s legacy as the Sam Adams of the South.
Stop 5: DuBois-Boatwright House
Third Street (Across from St. James) Directly across from the church is the city’s second-oldest home (1760). It provides a perfect visual of what a wealthy residence looked like just before the Revolution began.
Stop 6: The Burgwin-Wright House & Gardens
Location: Third and Market Streets
Built circa 1770, the Burgwin-Wright House was the premier “show home” of wealthy planter, merchant, and Loyalist John Burgwin. Interestingly, Burgwin rarely—if ever—slept here; he built this massive residence primarily to entertain guests, conduct business, and display his immense wealth when hosting figures like Royal Governors Tryon and Martin.
The home’s construction is as unique as its history:
- Built on a Dungeon: The house sits atop the massive stone walls of the original 1744 City Jail and is located near the site of the original city gallows. The alley on the right hand side of the house (near present day Ponysarus Bar) is where many were hanged.
- Dining with a View: The dining room is located on the third floor. In the 18th century, this was a strategic choice to escape the “stink” of the city’s open sewage, shipping docks, and butcher markets.
- British Occupation: During the 1781 Occupation of Wilmington, the home was seized for use by British Major James Craig and later Lord Charles Cornwallis, who dined here several times while coordinating British efforts in the South.
- Tour the home – the historic home features original pieces of furniture, china and silver, including John Burgwin’s Tea Caddy (he didn’t mind drinking tea, even when Wilmington rebelled against the Tea Tax)
This is the only colonial-era home in Wilmington open to the public. For a deeper dive, the house tour is excellent, as is the specialized “Outlander in the Cape Fear” tour hosted by Hunter Ingram. Plan your visit here.
Stop 7: Old Courthouse Sign
Market and Front Streets Walk back toward the river down Market Street. This site was the epicenter of political rebellion. It’s where the Stamp Master William Houston was forced to resign and where the Sons of Liberty gathered to plot the overthrow of British rule.
Stop 8: William Hooper House Site
Location: Corner of 3rd and Princess Streets
While the original structure is no longer standing, this site is marked by a historical sign denoting the home of William Hooper, one of North Carolina’s three signers of the Declaration of Independence.
Meet William Hooper?
- A Bostonian turned Carolinian: Originally from Boston and a student of James Otis (the man who coined “Taxation without representation is tyranny”), Hooper moved to Wilmington in 1764 and quickly became a leading legal and political mind in the Cape Fear.
- The “Signer”: In 1774, he was elected to the First Continental Congress. On August 2, 1776, he etched his name into history by signing the Declaration of Independence alongside Joseph Hewes and John Penn.
- A Target for the British: Because of his high profile, Hooper was a marked man. During the British occupation of Wilmington in 1781, his home was seized, and he was forced to go into hiding, separated from his family for nearly a year.
Standing at this corner, you are on the ground where one of the Founding Fathers of the United States lived and plotted the birth of a new nation.
While there is tons more history to uncover in Wilmington, for now we’re going to hit the highway and travel to other important Cape Fear Revolutionary Sites.
However before we hit the highway, feel free to grab a bite to eat at one of Wilmington’s amazing eateries. A few of my favorites downtown include:
- Pilot House: Scenic Riverfront Restaurant with amazing local seafood.
- Circa 1922: I love their gluten-free desserts
- Rebellion: Spirit of 76 with great beers, burgers and spirited atmosphere
- Drift Coffee (for lighter fare)
- Pinpoint (farm to table dinner menu)
- Rx Chicken & Oysters (located in historic pharmacy building, this restaurants sources its own fresh oysters. They are also known for their amazing fried chicken.
Stop 9: Brunswick Town / Fort Anderson
Location: Winnabow, NC (Approx. 30-minute drive from Wilmington)
After completing your walking tour of Wilmington, head south to explore the haunting ruins of Brunswick Town. Founded by Maurice Moore in 1726, this was once the busiest port in the colony and the epicenter of early American defiance.
Did you know: The Moore Family recognized that this area was a goldmine for Naval Stores, like tar, pitch and turpentine, which can be made from the Longleaf Pine (NC State Tree). During the Colonial period, Brunswick Town produced 70% of all Naval Stores in the world, and the majority used for the British Navy.
The Stamp Act Rebellion (1765–1766) Brunswick Town was the site of the first armed protest against the Stamp Act in the American colonies. When the HMS Diligence arrived with the tax stamps, the Cape Fear Sons of Liberty staged a series of bold standoffs. The crisis escalated when two ships were seized for carrying papers without stamps. In a daring move in February 1766, Patriots temporarily held Governor Tryon and his official, William Pennington, hostage until the stamps were surrendered and the tax was effectively nullified in North Carolina.
The Pen is as Mighty as the Sword Maurice Moore, a Brunswick Town leader who wrote a seething, widely circulated pamphlet against the Stamp Act. His intellectual defiance was so effective that Governor Tryon temporarily removed him from his position as a judge.
The Ruins of Russellborough & St. Philip’s Church
- Russellborough: Walk the foundations of this once-palatial mansion. It served as the home for Royal Governors Arthur Dobbs and William Tryon before the Revolution turned it into a target.
- The Burning: In 1776 and again in 1781, the British army systematically burned Brunswick Town to the ground. They didn’t even spare the Anglican Church. Today the light still pierces through the ruins and you sense a spirit of hope even in the abandonment.
- St. Philip’s Church: The massive brick shell of this Anglican church is all that remains of the town’s spiritual heart. The churchyard is the final resting place of notable Patriots like Alfred Moore and Benjamin Smith.
- Fun Fact: Benjamin Smith (American Nomad- Adele’s Uncle) was an aide-de-camp for Washington and later Governor of North Carolina. He died a pauper after giving his money to causes like public education.
Stop 10: Southport & Historic Fort Johnston
Location: Southport Waterfront
Drive south to where the Cape Fear meets the Atlantic. This scenic town, formerly known as Smithville, was the site of the dramatic collapse of British rule in the colony.
The Burning of Fort Johnston (July 19, 1775) Following the flight of Royal Governor Josiah Martin, he sought refuge at Fort Johnston before retreating further onto the HMS Cruizer. On the night of July 19, a force of roughly 500 Patriots—led by Cornelius Harnett, John Ashe, and Robert Howe—marched on the fort and burned it to the ground. From the deck of the Cruizer, Governor Martin watched helplessly as the last vestige of his authority turned to ash. He would remain aboard his ship for months, plotting the counter-attack that would lead to the Battle of Moore’s Creek.
- Read American Nomad’s Fort Johnston guide here
What to See:
- The Indian Tree: Located near the waterfront, this massive, ancient Live Oak is believed to have been used as a landmark by the indigenous Cape Fear Indians. For centuries, its twisted branches served as a signal point for those navigating the river. It stands today as a “witness tree,” having seen the arrival of the first explorers, the passage of pirate ships, and the burning of the fort.
- The Garrison House: The only remaining structure of the Fort Johnston complex (rebuilt in the early 1800s). It now houses a museum detailing the fort’s history from 1745 through the Civil War.
- Old Smithville Burying Ground: A short walk from the waterfront, this hauntingly beautiful cemetery is the final resting place of Revolutionary War soldiers, early river pilots.
Southport today is a vibrant small town with amazing local restaurants and local shops. I highly recommend the North Carolina Maritime Museum at Southport, which is attached to Fort Johnston. Read my Southport guide here.
Stop 11: Heron’s Bridge (The Battle for the Bridge)
Location: North of Wilmington (Off Hwy 117/Hwy 133)
After exploring downtown, but before you head out to Moore’s Creek, you would have passed the site of the Battle of Heron’s Bridge. This was the strategic “Gateway to the North” and the site of a fierce skirmish in January 1781.
The Strategic Stand: When British Major James Craig occupied Wilmington, his goal was to secure the surrounding countryside. Heron’s Bridge, which crossed the North East Cape Fear River, was the only way for British troops to move north toward the Patriot strongholds.
The Skirmish: Patriot forces, led by men like Colonel Thomas Bloodworth, engaged the British here to prevent them from advancing further into the state. The fighting was intense; the Patriots used the swampy terrain to their advantage, sniping at British regulars from the heavy brush. While the British eventually forced a crossing, the delay caused by the “Swamp Fox” style tactics of the local militia gave other Patriot units time to organize further inland.
- The Historical Marker: Look for the NC Highway Historical Marker (usually found near the intersection of Highway 133 and Highway 117) that denotes the skirmish site.
- The Terrain: As you drive north toward Moore’s Creek, notice the blackwater swamps and dense cypress knees. This is the exact environment where the local militia vanished after taking their shots at Craig’s redcoats.
- The “Witness” River: The North East Cape Fear River still flows through this area much as it did in 1781.
Stop 12: Moore’s Creek National Battlefield
Location: 401 Veterans Dr, Currie, NC
To complete the story, head north to the site of the “Lexington of the South.” This quiet, swampy creek is where the British plan to reclaim North Carolina was permanently derailed.
The Setup: Remember Governor Josiah Martin fleeing to the HMS Cruizer off Southport? From the safety of that ship, he hatched a plan to have thousands of Scottish Highlander Loyalists march to the coast, join the British Army, and crush the rebellion. They never made it to the coast.
The Battle (February 27, 1776): Patriot forces arrived at Moore’s Creek first. In a stroke of tactical genius, they removed the floorboards of the bridge and greased the remaining support planks with lard and soft soap. When the Highlanders attempted a “brave” charge across the bridge with broadswords drawn, they found no footing. They were met by a devastating volley of Patriot musket and cannon fire. The battle lasted only three minutes, but its impact lasted forever.
The Political Result: This victory was so decisive that it gave the North Carolina provincial congress the confidence to draft the Halifax Resolves—making us the first colony to officially call for independence from Great Britain. Cornelius Harnett and William Hooper were involved in drafting the resolves in Halifax NC (April 1776).
Harnett’s Pocket Tip: While Harnett was actually not at the Battle, he was still a part of the greater action. At the time of the battle (February 1776), Harnett was serving as the President of the North Carolina Provincial Council (also known as the Council of Safety). Because the Royal Governor had fled to a British warship, Harnett was essentially the Acting Governor and chief executive of the revolutionary government. The first official governor (non-Royal) would be Richard Caswell, appointed in December 1776.
His Contributions to the Victory:
The Aftermath: Harnett used the momentum of the Moores Creek victory to chair the committee that produced the Halifax Resolves just two months later, making North Carolina the first colony to officially call for independence.
Military Planning: Harnett was deeply involved in the high-level strategy to intercept the Loyalists. He oversaw the raising of troops, arming of the militia, and coordination of supplies for the men who eventually fought at the bridge.
The Intelligence Network: As a leader of the Committees of Correspondence, Harnett helped manage the information network that allowed Patriot forces to track the movement of the 1,600 Scottish Highlanders as they marched toward the coast.
Receiving the News: Immediately after the battle, the commanding officers—Richard Caswell and James Moore—sent official reports of the victory directly to Harnett. One of the most famous letters in North Carolina history is Caswell’s report “To the Hon. Cornelius Harnett,” detailing the capture of weapons, supplies, and over £15,000 in gold.
What to see: Don’t Miss The History Trail: A 1-mile loop (partially paved with recycled rubber) that guides you through the main battlefield and past most monuments. There are several important monuments on site, including a Loyalist monument for the Scots Highlanders who fought here (Don’t get Cornelius started on that one), as well as one to Mary Slocumb who is said to have ridden to the battle when she dreamed her husband was dying there. He was not injured but she tended the sick and represents the important role women played even in battle. The Visitor Center and introductory film are a must
Bonus Stop: The General’s Footsteps
George Washington’s Southern Tour (1791) In the spring of 1791, President George Washington embarked on a tour of the Southern states to build national unity. He spent several days in Wilmington, where he was greeted with a 15-gun salute and grand dinners. While the house where he stayed (the Quince House) no longer stands, you can find a marker near Front and Dock Streets denoting the site.
The Hampstead Legend: “Ham Instead” As Washington traveled north from Wilmington, he stopped to rest in the area we now know as Hampstead. Under the shade of a massive, ancient live oak—which miraculously still stands today—the President stopped for a meal.
As the story goes, Washington’s preferred lunch was unavailable at the local stop. When asked what he would have to eat, he reportedly replied that he would have “ham instead.” Local lore suggests this phonetic slip led to the naming of the town.
What to See Today:
- The Washington Tree: Located on US Highway 17 in Hampstead. It is a massive “witness tree” that has survived centuries of hurricanes and development.
- The Marker: A state historical marker stands nearby, commemorating Washington’s 1791 journey through this very corridor.
Don’t forget to subscribe for mor Revolutionary Road Trip – America 250 Itineraries and Cape Fear history.
Hi, I’m Adele Lassiter, the travel enthusiast behind American Nomad Traveler. This is where I share my love for history, cool museums, art, and travel tips. When I’m not writing, I’m a singer-songwriter with a passion for Americana music. You can find my new album here: adelelassiter.bandcamp.com
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