A Revolutionary Road Trip to the Cape Fear
In today’s American Nomad adventure, we’re embarking on a Revolutionary Road Trip through North Carolina’s Cape Fear region.
From the Stamp Act Crisis of 1765 through the American Revolution, Wilmington, Brunswick Town, and the greater Cape Fear area stood at ground zero for patriot resistance and the fires of rebellion. As we approach the 250th anniversary of the Declaration of Independence, there is no better time to explore this remarkable region—where independence was debated, defended, and fought for long before 1776.
Here, you can walk in the footsteps of influential patriots such as Sons of Liberty leaders Cornelius Harnett and John Ashe, and William Hooper, a signer of the Declaration of Independence. You can also examine the Loyalist perspective through figures like Royal Governors William Tryon and Josiah Martin, and Wilmington merchant John Burgwin, whose home still stands today.
While this area has long made a splash with visitors seeking rest and relaxation at the beaches, as well as Wilmington’s lively Riverwalk and its unique shops and restaurants, history abounds at every turn. Did you know Wilmington’s historic district spans more than 230 blocks, making it one of the largest in the nation? Each street corner carries a story—often tied directly to the Revolutionary era.
Whether you’re a dedicated history buff or just beginning to catch the history bug, Wilmington and the Lower Cape Fear region invite you into the drama of American independence. Wilmington may be known today as a film hub, but the real history that unfolded here rivals any screenplay. In fact, the region’s Revolutionary War past—and real-life figures ranging from patriot Cornelius Harnett to Royal Governors William Tryon and Josiah Martin—inspired Diana Gabaldon to weave Wilmington and the Cape Fear into her Outlander series.
In this post, I’ll share a deep-dive historical travel itinerary that featuring Revolutionary War sites in the heart of Wilmington and the greater Lower Cape Fear Region. Future posts will dive deeper into individual locations across the region and explore additional America 250 stories worth discovering.
To truly understand the Cape Fear, you have to look past the modern bridges and riverwalks. You have to understand the drama of the people who stood here 250 years ago. When we talk about “time traveling,” we’re talking about stepping into their shoes—feeling the humidity of the swamps and the weight of a decision that could get you hanged for treason.
Wilmington: Port City, Film City, Revolutionary Hub
Our Revolutionary headquarters for this journey will be Wilmington, North Carolina—a charming port city now famously nicknamed “Hollywood East.” With one of the highest levels of film production outside Los Angeles and New York, Wilmington’s modern identity is creative and vibrant. Yet beneath that surface lies a city shaped by revolution.
Click here to learn more about films in Wilmington.
Downtown Wilmington offers a blend of boutique and chain hotels that serve as the perfect base camp for your journey. I personally love the Front Street Inn; it’s conveniently located just steps from the Riverwalk, historic sites, and local dining. Plus, they have a fantastic coffee and cocktail bar on-site called ‘Concorde’—the perfect spot to review your field notes after a day of exploring.
With over 230 blocks in the core historic district, Wilmington invites you to truly dive into history on foot. To get the most out of your visit, I highly recommend these immersive tours that bridge the gap from the Colonial era and the Revolution through the Civil War and beyond:
- Wilmington Walking Tours: Perfect for a narrative overview of the city’s secrets.
- Burgwin-Wright House & Gardens: A must for those wanting to stand where Cornwallis stood.
- Springbrook Farms Horse-Drawn Carriage Tours: For a slower, rhythmic pace through the old neighborhoods.
- Wilmington Water Tours: This cruise on the Cape Fear dives into the history of the region in a fun and scenic hour long boat tour.
Where to eat:
- Wilmington has a ‘revolutionary’ foodie scene with amazing restaurants focused on locally sourced farm to table foods. A few of my favorites include:
- Rebellion – inspired by Stamp Act Rebellion (cool building with great grub)
- Rx and Oysters – locally sourced oysters and delicious fried chicken – your prescription for food.
- Circa 1922 – historic ambiance and mouthwatering food and homemade desserts. (Gluten Free Carrot Cake is amazing)
- The Pilot House – waterfront dining on the Cape Fear
- Pin Point – Farm to Table food that will whet any palette
- What are your favorite Wilmington eats? Share in the comments at the end of the post.
- Destination Coffee – Wilmington has over 100 coffee shops to help fuel your Rev War energy needs. Check out my Destination Coffee Substack for a few favorites
While downtown is a collection of interconnected neighborhoods, each with its own distinct character, the Riverwalk along the Cape Fear River remains its beating heart—just as it was 250 years ago.
The river itself is the true star of this story. Without The Cape Fear, Wilmington—and much of the surrounding region—might never have existed. Originating in Chatham County in the Piedmont of North Carolina, at the confluence of the Haw and Deep Rivers at Mermaid Point (a name rooted in local folklore, more on that in a moment), the Cape Fear flows more than 200 miles past Fayetteville—known as Cross Creek during the Revolution—before reaching Wilmington and emptying into the Atlantic near present-day Southport.
Cape Fear: What’s in a Name?
The Cape Fear River has been the lifeblood of North Carolina for more than a thousand years. Long before it became a bustling highway for European settlers, the river formed a vital network for hunting, fishing, and travel for Indigenous peoples, including the Sapona, who first called its banks home.
The first European known to sight the region was the Italian explorer Giovanni da Verrazzano in 1524. Just two years later, Spanish explorer Lucas Vázquez de Ayllón arrived and named the area Rio Jordan. His presence, however, was short-lived. One of his ships wrecked on the treacherous shoals nearby. While no lives were lost, it marked one of the earliest recorded shipwrecks in what would become known as the “Graveyard of the Atlantic.”
The name we use today emerged from fear born at sea.
In 1585, Sir Richard Grenville, a cousin of Sir Walter Raleigh, led an English expedition bound for Roanoke Island—the ill-fated precursor to the “Lost Colony.” As the fleet approached the coast near present-day Frying Pan Shoals, not far from Southport, Grenville’s flagship, Tiger, became embayed—trapped dangerously behind the cape. Hidden sandbars nearly destroyed the ship, and the crew narrowly escaped catastrophe.
Shaken by the experience, Grenville reportedly named the headland the “Cape of Feare.” The name endured, a stark reminder that the river and its coastline—so vital to settlement and commerce—could also inspire genuine terror.
The Evolution of the Name
Over the centuries, the river’s identity shifted with its inhabitants:
- Sapona: The name used by local Native Americans.
- Rio Jordan: The 1526 Spanish designation.
- Charles / Clarendon River: Names used by English proprietors in the mid-1600s.
- Cape Fair: In the late 17th century, promoters tried to rebrand the area as “Cape Fair” to make it sound more inviting to settlers.
Despite the marketing attempt, the more dramatic Cape Fear stuck—a permanent tribute to the Frying Pan Shoals. These massive, shifting underwater sandbars extend nearly 30 miles into the ocean, and their unpredictable currents remain a formidable challenge for sailors to this day.
Perhaps it was the experience of taming this wild region—battling the rough waters, unpredictable currents, and treacherous shoals—that helped forge the iron will of the local Patriots. Forging a life on the banks of the Cape Fear required a certain brand of courage, a trait that would prove indispensable when the time came to stand against the might of the British Crown.
Early Settlements: The Failed Start and the Pirate Era Before Brunswick Town and Wilmington, the first permanent attempt at colonization in the Cape Fear took place in 1664. A group of Barbadians led by John Vassall established Charlestown about twenty miles upriver from present-day Southport. You can still see the historical marker on the drive to Brunswick Town today. Unfortunately, malaria, conflict with Native Americans, and a lack of support caused the colony to collapse by 1667. For the next fifty years, the river was left to the Native Americans and infamous pirates like Stede Bonnet and Blackbeard. (Interestingly, Stede Bonnet was eventually captured in 1718 by my ancestor, William Rhett! Rhett’s daughter married Roger Moore who founded Brunswick Town.)
The Founding of Brunswick Town: Permanent settlement finally took hold in 1726 when brothers Maurice and “King” Roger Moore arrived from South Carolina. They recognized the river as a gold mine for Naval Stores (tar, pitch, and turpentine) and rice. They founded Brunswick Town, and the very first lot was sold to Cornelius Harnett Sr. Brunswick quickly became a leading port and served at various times as a colonial capital.
The Birth of Wilmington: In 1733, a rival settlement emerged sixteen miles further upriver. Originally called Newton (or New Liverpool), it was renamed Wilmington in 1739 in honor of the Earl of Wilmington.
While Brunswick was the seat of government, Wilmington’s location made it a superior trading hub. Today, you can still see the Mitchell-Anderson House (1738), the oldest standing home in the city, on Front Street (next door to the Front Street Inn). Though now an office, its exterior remains a rare window into the city’s earliest days.
As we’ve explored in recent posts, Wilmington and the Cape Fear became a stronghold of patriotism as early as 1765 during the Stamp Act Crisis. In fact, the resistance here was so fierce that North Carolina was the only colony in America to completely block the tax from being enacted. [Read more about the Stamp Act Crisis Drama here.]
The tension boiled over in October and November 1765, leading to a dramatic showdown at the Old Courthouse where the crowd forced the resignation of Stamp Master William Houston.
When the Revolution officially broke out, the region became ground zero for the fight in the South. From the daring overthrow of Governor Martin at Fort Johnston to the decisive Patriot victory at Moores Creek Bridge, the Cape Fear was constantly in the crosshairs. The drama culminated in January 1781, when the British successfully captured Wilmington under Maj. James Craig, turning the city into a pivotal occupied territory in the war’s final years.”
Fiery History: There are only around six Colonial structures remaining in Wilmington today. The reason? In 1798, a massive fire destroyed the majority of the downtown core. So while tons of Colonial History happened along those streets, the infrastructure dates mostly to the early 1800s and deeper into the 19th-20th centuries.
Conquering Cape Fear: The Dram Tree – The Sailor’s Milestone
Reaching the Port of Wilmington was no easy feat, as sailors had to navigate the treacherous waters of Frying Pan Shoals and upriver over twenty miles. In the earlier years, prior to dredging, the Cape Fear was not governed by the tides and at times you’d have to move your ship with a stick oar upriver.
For more than 200 years, a massive, gnarled cypress tree stood in the Cape Fear River just south of Wilmington, near what is now the entrance to the ship channel. Known as the Dram Tree, it became a living monument for every sailor, pirate, and merchant who navigated these waters—an unmistakable landmark etched into the collective memory of the river.
Reaching Wilmington was no simple task. The lower Cape Fear was shallow, winding, and constantly shifting, with sandbars and strong currents that could trap even experienced crews. Larger vessels often had to drop sails and take to the oars, while smaller boats relied on long poles to push and pry their way through the water, inch by exhausting inch toward safe harbor. Arrival was earned through muscle as much as seamanship.
The Tradition
As ships finally prepared to leave the protection of the river for the open Atlantic, the Dram Tree marked a symbolic “point of no return.” Once a vessel drew even with the tree, the captain would order a dram—a small measure of rum or spirits—for the crew. The toast was both practical and ceremonial: a moment to steady nerves and honor the labor it had taken just to reach that point before facing the treacherous ocean beyond.
The Homecoming
For sailors returning after months—or even years—at sea, spotting the Dram Tree was often the first sign they were truly home. It meant they had made it through the shoals and shifting channels, back into fresh water and under the protection of Wilmington’s harbor. After storms, shipwrecks, and long separations, the tree became a powerful symbol of survival, relief, and reunion.
The Fate of the Tree
The Dram Tree survived centuries of hurricanes, changing tides, and even the turmoil of the Revolutionary War. Ultimately, it could not withstand the combined forces of time and progress. River dredging and natural erosion claimed the tree in the 1940s. Today, a commemorative marker and a replica stand along the Wilmington Riverwalk—quiet reminders of a landmark that once watched over every hard-won arrival and hopeful departure.
The Cape Fear – Mermaids and Revolutionary Tides
As the only major North Carolina river that flows directly into the ocean, the Cape Fear became the colony’s most important commercial artery. This natural highway fueled Wilmington’s rise as a major port exporting tar, pitch, and turpentine—the naval stores that earned North Carolina its enduring nickname: the Tar Heel State.
Between 1730 and 1776, thousands of immigrants entered North Carolina through the ports of Brunswick and Wilmington. Many were Highland Scots and Scots-Irish, pioneers who would leave an indelible mark on the culture of the Cape Fear. Today, at the Brunswick Town State Historic Site, a dedicated stone cairn honors the thousands of Scottish families who arrived here in search of a better life. When the Revolution broke out, these communities were torn apart: some Scots remained Loyalists, fighting for the King at the Battle of Moore’s Creek Bridge, while others became some of the colony’s most ardent Patriots.
The Cape Fear River was ground zero for American rebellion during the Stamp Act crisis (1765–1766), as the towns of Wilmington and Brunswick erupted into defiance. In February 1766, the first armed protest against royal authority in America took place at Brunswick Town. For months, the river was the center of a heated standoff as hundreds of armed colonists—led by the Sons of Liberty—monitored the waterfront to prevent the tax stamps from being unloaded from the British ship, the HMS Diligence. This was no midnight raid in disguise; it was a bold, daylight confrontation that saw the Royal Governor practically held under house arrest while the Cape Fear patriots refused to yield.
“On July 19th, 1775, North Carolina’s last Royal Governor, Josiah Martin, was driven from Fort Johnston in present-day Southport, at the terminus of Cape Fear as it entered the Atlantic Ocean. Sons of Liberty leaders John Ashe and Cornelius Harnett led a force to burn the fort to the ground, forcing the Governor to flee to his ship the HMS Cruizer. From that night on, the Cape Fear was no longer just a trade route—it was an active battlefield for Liberty!
Cape Fear Mermaids: Folklore or “Cherry Bounce”?
Further up the Cape Fear, at it’s headwaters in Chatham County NC…
According to local lore, Revolutionary War soldiers dining at Ramsey’s Tavern and Mill throughout the war claimed to see beautiful mermaids lounging on the sandbar at Mermaid Point. Soldiers claimed the mermaids would sit on the sandbar at night, combing their long hair in the moonlight. The soldiers would see them laughing, singing and splashing in the water. However if anyone called them out or tried to approach they’d dive into the Cape Fear River.
Some soldiers suggested the mermaids had fled upriver to escape the British, who had begun their occupation of Wilmington and Fort Johnston in January 1781. Whether it was a true mystical sighting or the result of too many glasses of “Cherry Bounce” (a potent colonial brandy), the name Mermaid Point remains on the map today.
A Strategic Watering Hole Beyond the folklore, this spot was a vital landmark in the story of the inland Cape Fear. Ramsey’s Tavern and Mill was a popular crossroads used by both sides throughout the war. Its most famous—and desperate—”guest” arrived following the Battle of Guilford Courthouse (March 15, 1781).
Though Lord Cornwallis technically held the field after the battle, he had lost twenty-five percent of his men and was dangerously low on supplies. Realizing he could no longer hold the interior, he began a grueling retreat toward the coast.
Cornwallis at the Mill: March 28–30, 1781 Exhausted and pursued by Patriot General Nathanael Greene, Cornwallis and his army reached Ramsey’s Mill on March 28, 1781. The mill became Cornwallis’s headquarters for two days as his engineers worked frantically to build a bridge across the Deep River. On March 30, just as Greene’s vanguard was closing in, Cornwallis abandoned the mill and pushed toward Wilmington. When the Patriots arrived only hours later, they found the British had been so rushed they left their ovens hot and their beef still cooking.
From there he continued his way onto Wilmington, which was then under his subordinate Major James Craig. I bring up this inland history to show the importance of the Cape Fear Region and it’s connection to Wilmington even in the depths of the 1781 Campaign.
Wilmington Revolutionary War Tour:
Now that we’ve laid the historical foundation for our tour, let’s start our Revolutionary tour!
The best place to begin a Wilmington Revolutionary War tour is at the Burgwin-Wright House. Built atop the old city jail (circa 1744), the Burgwin-Wright House was the showpiece home of politician and merchant John Burgwin, a Loyalist who would have hosted governors such as William Tryon and Josiah Martin, along with Wilmington’s leading merchants and planter class.
The foundations of the old jail were made with ballast stone, heavy rocks or other dense materials like iron and bricks that were loaded into the hull of sailing vessels, especially when empty, to provide weight, lower the ship’s center of gravity and increase stability, preventing capsizing in rough seas, acting as a counterweight to wind and cargo. These ballast stones were used in many homes to provide a sturdy foundation against hurricanes and other elements.
Wilmington had an underground tunnel system to help prevent flooding in the city. Wilmington is naturally hilly, a unique attribute in this area of the Coastal Plain. These tunnels can be found underneath the Burgwin-Wright House, but are closed off to the public. Fun fact: The only street that is known to flood with the tides/strong storms is Water Street, on the banks of the Cape Fear.
As a Loyalist unwilling to make enemies on either side, Burgwin claimed that his broken leg could not be properly treated in America and departed for England for the duration of the war. During most of the Revolution, the house was rented by the Wright family, who eventually purchased it from Burgwin.
- Artifact Highlight: The Burgwin-Wright Home features many original pieces from the Burgwin and Wright eras, including a silver tea caddy, furniture and a unique tea storage unit that was hand painted in China for John Burgwin and shipped back to Wilmington (showing his immense wealth and influence)
After Governor Martin was forced out of office—and even following the Patriot victory at the Battle of Moore’s Creek—Wilmington remained free from British occupation until January 1781. That changed when Cornwallis ordered Major James Craig to seize Wilmington, securing control of the Cape Fear River. In examining why local Patriots seemingly abandoned this vital port city, the answer lies largely in strategy: Nathanael Greene was willing to concede ground temporarily in order to deny Cornwallis lasting control of the coast.
During the British occupation of Wilmington from January 1781 until November 18th, 1781 (when Craig and British began to evacuate after news of Cornwallis’s demise at Yorktown on October 19th, 1781)—many Patriots were rounded up and imprisoned in or near the Burgwin-Wright House. Its basement, originally part of the city jail foundation, became an ideal holding area. An open-air prison also operated across the street, on the site of what is now a bank and parking lot. The gallows, originally erected in 1744 in the alley beside the house, were once again put to use during the war.
Major Craig maintained control of Wilmington while Cornwallis was engaged in his pursuit of Greene during the “Race to the Dan.” After the pyrrhic victory at Guilford Courthouse, Cornwallis began seeking an exit strategy from North Carolina. Though his superior, General Clinton, ordered him back toward Camden, South Carolina, Cornwallis had grown weary of what he called the North Carolina “hornets’ nest.”
While in Wilmington, Cornwallis likely stayed aboard ship or in an officer’s tent, but he is said to have dined at the Burgwin-Wright House. Legend holds that the only thing he truly liked about North Carolina was the sweet potatoes. Cornwallis Yams was a specialty recipe for years at the Colonial Inn in Hillsborough. While we can’t be sure what he ate in Wilmington, we can assume Sweet Potatoes (Yams) were on the menu. North Carolina is the leading producer of Sweet Potatoes in the United States.
One particularly fascinating feature of the Burgwin-Wright House is its third-floor dining room. Although Wilmington was relatively advanced in sewage for its time, the streets were muddy, and Market Street was thick with odors—from butchers, waste, and the swampy river air on hot days. Elevating the dining space helped escape the smells of street level.
Today, the Burgwin-Wright House tour does an excellent job exploring not only the home’s history, but also the political tensions within Revolutionary-era Wilmington. It presents both Loyalist and Patriot perspectives and highlights the often-overlooked but vital role this region played in the larger road to American independence.
Look for an upcoming feature dedicated specifically to the Burgwin-Wright House.
3rd and Market: The Epicenter of Defiance
Just a few steps from the Burgwin-Wright House, you’ll find a historical marker for the Old Courthouse, which originally stood two blocks west at the intersection of 3rd and Market Streets. This wasn’t just a building for legal filings; it was the stage for the birth of North Carolina’s independence.
The Stamp Act Resignation (1765): Years before the first shots of the war, this was the site of a massive protest against the Stamp Act. It was here that a crowd of hundreds “persuaded” the appointed Stamp Master, William Houston, to publicly resign his commission. It was a stunning victory for the people over royal law.
The Seat of the Committee (1775): A decade later, the Courthouse evolved from a place of protest to the headquarters of the Committee of Safety. Within these walls, Patriots gathered to debate the transition from British subjects to independent citizens, effectively running the region’s affairs while the Royal Governor was still trying to maintain control from the river. Learn more about this history here.
The Wilmington Committee of Safety: The Patriotic Shadow Government
During the American Revolution, Committees of Safety were created as a patriotic shadow government. In Wilmington, this local body formed between 1774 and 1775 to enforce boycotts against British goods, organize the local militia, and manage the economy. Essentially, they were replacing royal authority block by block, ensuring that revolutionary laws were followed and keeping a very close watch on local Loyalists.
A Paper Trail of Treason In my research, I was surprised to find incredibly detailed notes from these meetings. This is quite rare; given that these men were committing high treason against the Crown, you would expect them to keep their records secret or destroy them. Instead, these records have survived as a treasure for historical researchers, providing a “fly-on-the-wall” look at the drama of the period. Read the ‘Paper Trail’ here.
No Fun Allowed: The Horse Racing Ban One of the more amusing discoveries in the committee’s notes was their strict focus on banning horse racing and other “expensive diversions.” The goal was to maintain a spirit of solemnity and frugality for the cause. If you were out at the track betting on horses, you weren’t focused on liberty! It’s a funny reminder that the path to independence included a healthy dose of “colonial cancel culture” for anyone having too much fun while the country was at stake.
Next Stop: Dubois-Boatwright House:
Less than a block away from the Burgwin-Wright House is a private historic residence worth walking by: The Dubois-Boatwright House. Built circa 1760, this is the second oldest extant home in Wilmington. It has been in the Boatwright family since the 1800s and a historical treasure in Wilmington. Learn more about the home’s history here.
St. James Episcopal Church: Sacred Ground Usurped by British Troops
Just across the street from the Burgwin-Wright House lies St. James Episcopal Churchyard. While the current Gothic building dates to 1839, the ground itself is a Revolutionary relic. During the occupation of 1781, the British showed a shocking lack of respect for the Anglican parish; Under orders of Cornwallis, Major Craig’s troops stripped the pews and used the sanctuary as an army outpost, medical facility and military training ground. The church was reconsecrated after the war. It was rebuilt in 1839 given aging structural issues and a growing parish.
Look for the Painting: Inside the church hangs the “Ecce Homo” (Behold the Man), a 16th-century Spanish painting of Christ by Francisco Pacheco. It was famously looted from a Spanish pirate ship, the La Fortuna, after its failed attack on Brunswick Town in 1748—a rare survivor of the region’s early maritime battles.
The Tragedy of Cornelius Harnett
In the churchyard, you will find the grave of Cornelius Harnett, arguably North Carolina’s most important Revolutionary leader. Often called the “Samuel Adams of the South,” Harnett was a master of communication, working with men like Josiah Quincy of Massachusetts to build a network of resistance that stretched across the colonies, to his work as a legislator and author of the Halifax Resolves.
When the British took Wilmington in 1781, Harnett—already suffering from a severe case of gout—fled the city.
Major Craig sent a cavalry troop to hunt him down. They captured him in Onslow County, and in a display of unnecessary cruelty, forced the elderly, sick statesman to crawl or be dragged back to Wilmington.
Imprisoned in an open-air blockhouse and exposed to the elements, his health collapsed. He was released only when it was clear he was dying. Harnett passed away on April 20, 1781—his birthday—just six months before the American victory at Yorktown.
For fans of Diana Gabaldon’s Outlander, visiting this churchyard invites you to experience the fiction come to life. While Jamie and Claire Fraser are fictional, the man buried here—Cornelius Harnett—was the real-life soul of the movement they joined, and his sacrifice was the price paid for the independence they sought. It was Harnett in the series that recruited Jamie into the Wilmington Sons of Liberty!
After paying respects at Cornelius Harnett’s gravesite, I recommend walking another half block to 4th Street and Market (behind the church) to the Cornelius Harnett Memorial, which was placed here in 1929 by the National Society of the Colonial Dames of America to honor Harnett.
- Pro Tip: Throughout Wilmington you will find amazing hidden history revealed through historic markers – including iconic stone markers dedicated to Stamp Act Crisis to North Carolina Highway Markers. Each of these signs help give a window into history.
William Hooper – Loyalist to Patriot
Only a block from Burgwin-Wright and St. James Church, on the corner of Third Street and Princess Street in Wilmington, you’ll notice a historical marker dedicated to William Hooper, Patriot and Signer of the Declaration of Independence from Wilmington!
Born on June 17, 1742, in Boston, William Hooper was the son of the rector of Boston’s Trinity Church, William Hooper Sr., and Mary Dennie, the daughter of a prominent Massachusetts merchant. Despite his loyalist roots, Hooper would eventually become a fervent Patriot and one of North Carolina’s signers of the Declaration of Independence.
After graduating from Harvard, Hooper studied law under prominent Boston attorney James Otis. While Hooper’s father leaned loyalist during the years of the Stamp Act, it was during his time with Otis that Hooper began to open his views to the revolutionary ideas that would emerge by 1773.
Upon completing his legal studies, Hooper had the opportunity to practice law in the growing port city of Wilmington. He moved there in 1764 and was quickly welcomed into society by the planter class, who respected his wit and intellect. He met and fell in love with Anne Clark, the daughter of a well-connected New Hanover County family. The two were married on August 16, 1767, at Boston’s Trinity Church—his father’s church—before returning to Wilmington to begin their new life.
By 1768, Hooper’s legal reputation had grown to the point that he was appointed deputy attorney general for the Salisbury District. At the time, Salisbury and Rowan County—along with Hillsborough and Orange County—were among the largest backcountry settlements west of the Cape Fear River. As a government appointee, Hooper became connected by default with Royal Governor William Tryon, who had become public enemy number one to the backcountry Regulators. They accused Tryon of appointing corrupt officials (Edmund Fanning being the prime target) and later sought to tax them to build a lavish mansion in New Bern.
While Hooper himself was not corrupt, his royal appointment made him a target. He experienced several violent encounters with Regulators, including an infamous incident in 1770 when he was dragged through the streets of Hillsborough by an angry mob. Outlander fans may recognize this scene, which was dramatized in the television series. (Learn more about the Regulator Movement in our Reckoning with the Regulators post.)
Although Hooper never supported the Regulator Movement—being dragged through town will do that to you—by 1773 he had become an ardent Patriot. No doubt his movement towards patriotism was also formed by exposure to discussion with local patriots like Cornelius Harnett, James Moore and John Ashe, as well as his hometown ties to Boston after the closing of the port in 1774.
On January 25, 1773, Hooper represented Campbellton in the General Assembly. He returned in December as New Hanover County’s representative, serving alongside John Ashe. In 1774, Hooper became a founding member of North Carolina’s first Committee of Correspondence. That April, he wrote to his friend James Iredell that it would not be long before the colonies “will build an empire on the ruins of Great Britain.”
When Boston’s port was closed in June under the Coercive (Intolerable) Acts, Hooper organized two shiploads of provisions to be sent north. No doubt he empathized not only with his hometown, but also with Wilmington’s precarious future—would the ports of Wilmington and Brunswick be next?
Later that year, delegates from most colonies met at Carpenter’s Hall in Philadelphia to discuss a unified response to British policy. During the First Continental Congress, John Adams remarked that “Lee (Richard Henry Lee),( Patrick) Henry, and Hooper are the orators of the Congress”—high praise from Adams himself.
Between 1774 and the end of 1776, Hooper attended four North Carolina Provincial Congresses and three Continental Congresses, playing an active role at both the state and national levels. While the film 1776 suggests that North Carolina merely followed South Carolina’s lead, this is not historically accurate. North Carolina—driven by Wilmington leaders like Hooper and Cornelius Harnett—was the first colony to officially authorize independence through the Halifax Resolves in April 1776.
When British Major James Craig took control of Wilmington, Hooper and his family faced direct retribution. British officers forced his wife and two daughters to abandon their home, sending them on a harrowing journey by wagon toward the interior with almost no possessions.
While Craig had burned other Patriot homes—such as the residence of General John Ashe—he spared Hooper’s Masonboro estate, ‘Finian,’ from the torch. Instead, he chose a different form of destruction: using it as a barracks and systematically vandalizing the property. The British destroyed Hooper’s extensive law library, then considered one of the finest in the colonies, by burning the volumes or tossing them into the nearby sound. The sight of his beloved home in such a state was too much for Hooper to bear; he never returned to live there.
Instead, the family relocated permanently to Hillsborough, purchasing the home of Brigadier General Francis Nash, a North Carolina hero who had been mortally wounded at the Battle of Germantown. William Hooper died in 1790 and was originally buried in Hillsborough’s Old Town Cemetery. In 1894, his remains were moved to Guilford Courthouse National Military Park to rest at the Signers’ Monument, where you can still visit him today.
The Villain of the Cape Fear: Major James Craig
As you walk the historic corridors of Downtown Wilmington, imagine the streets filled with British troops from January to November 1781. In late January—just days after Banastre Tarleton was “gut punched” by Daniel Morgan at the Battle of Cowpens—General Cornwallis ordered Major James Craig and the 82nd Regiment of Foot to seize Wilmington. This opened a vital supply chain for the British, allowing them to replenish Charleston and feed their starving army in the interior.
The Strategy of the “Hornet’s Nest” Though Wilmington was a Patriot hotbed, General Nathanael Greene recognized that a direct defense was too risky. Instead, he relied on local militia to harass British movements—a “war of a thousand cuts.” While Craig held the city, constant skirmishing broke out at places like Heron’s Bridge. Located just north of the city, Heron’s Bridge was a vital choke point where Patriot militia attempted to block Craig’s advance. Though Craig eventually forced his way through, these battles exposed the vulnerabilities of the British occupation and kept them pinned to the coast.
“‘Hornet’s Nest’ is the famous term Cornwallis used to describe the stinging resistance he met in Charlotte in 1780, but the spirit was the same here in the Cape Fear. Local militias used ‘hornet’ tactics—harassing British columns, cutting off supply lines, and vanishing into the swamps. They were pesky enough to paralyze the Crown’s movements, proving that you don’t have to win a head-on battle to win a war.”
A Personal Vendetta: Alfred Moore and the Burning of Buchoi My ancestor, Alfred Moore—who would later serve as a U.S. Supreme Court Justice—was a primary target of Craig’s wrath. Craig attempted to lure Moore into swearing allegiance to the Crown, offering him a British commission and a full pardon if he would abandon the Patriot cause. Moore’s response was a flat refusal.
In retaliation, Craig followed through on his most brutal threats. He sent a raiding party to Moore’s plantation, Buchoi, and burned it to the ground, destroying everything Moore owned. The two played a dangerous game of cat and mouse; while Moore successfully evaded capture, he and his family lost their home and livelihood to Craig’s “iron fist” policy.
Tracing the Occupation Today
- The Garrison Marker: On the corner of Ann and Nun Streets, a stone marker denotes the location of the British garrison. This marks the actual defensive lines where Craig’s troops stood watch against the very militia Moore helped lead.
- Heron’s Bridge Site: A short drive north of Wilmington on US 117 near Castle Hayne, leads you to the site of the battle site. While the bridge was destroyed during the 1781 fighting, a highway marker denotes where the local militia stood their ground against the regulars of the 82nd Foot.
Greater Cape Fear – Easy Day Trips from Wilmington
Revolutionary War History abounds in the Cape Fear at sites all within a easy (1 hour) drive of Wilmington. Here are a few must stops during your Revolutionary Cape Fear Road Trip…
Beyond the City: The Ruins of Brunswick Town
After exploring the revolutionary roots of Wilmington, drive thirty minutes south to the Brunswick Town/Fort Anderson State Historic Site. This is, hands down, one of the most significant yet underrated Revolutionary War sites in America.
As we touched on earlier, this was “Ground Zero” for the Stamp Act Crisis in 1765. Long before the Boston Tea Party, the citizens here were engaging in the first armed protest against British taxation, defying the Royal Governor at his own front door.
At Brunswick Town, you can even drive to the ruins of Russellborough, once the home of three royal governors (Dobbs, Tryon, and Martin)
A Town Twice Burned While Wilmington was occupied, Brunswick Town paid the ultimate price for its defiance. Because it was a Patriot stronghold, it was a constant target for British naval raids.
- The First Burning: In 1776, British sailors from the HMS Scorpion and HMS Cruizer came ashore and burned much of the town, including the majestic St. Philip’s Anglican Church.
- The Final Blow: What remained was put to the torch again in 1781 by Cornwallis’s troops as they moved through the region.
Today, the town is a “ghost port.” You can walk among the foundations of the homes and stand within the roofless shell of St. Philip’s, whose 3-foot-thick walls refused to crumble even as the town around it vanished from the map.
The Layered History: Spanish Pirates and Ghostly Mounds
While you are standing among the ruins of St. Philip’s, you are standing on a site of incredible resilience.
The Spanish Attack of 1748 Long before the British burned the town, Brunswick Town faced a terrifying raid by Spanish privateers in 1748. During the “Alarm,” the town was briefly captured and looted. However, the local militia rallied and blew up the Spanish ship, the La Fortuna.
The Easter Egg: Remember that Ecce Homo painting I mentioned at St. James Church in Wilmington? That painting was salvaged from the wreckage of the La Fortuna right here in the Cape Fear River. It is a rare, physical survivor of Brunswick’s earliest battle.
Fun fact! The La Fortuna was recently rediscovered near Brunswick Town by ECU scientists during a study on erosion at the Colonial Waterfront! It is now being studied at the ECU lab (they have one of the best for marine science and archaeology in the country). Read more here
The Civil War “Ghost” Mounds
One of the most striking things you’ll notice at the site are the massive, grass-covered earthen walls that loom over the colonial ruins. These are the remains of Fort Anderson, a Confederate fort built during the Civil War. It along with Fort Fisher helped defend the port of Wilmington during the Civil War.
- Building on the Past: The soldiers actually built these “ghost works” directly on top of the original colonial town.
- The Archaeological Secret: Because the earthworks were piled high with sand and dirt in the 1860s, they actually acted as a “time capsule,” preserving the colonial foundations underneath. As you walk the “mound” trails, you are literally standing 20 feet above the remains of 18th-century kitchens and shops that haven’t seen the sun in over 160 years.
The Gateway to the Highlands: The Scottish Memorial Cairn
While the ruins tell a story of fire and war, a brand-new monument at the site tells a story of hope and heritage. During my visit in November 2025, I was honored to witness the unveiling of the Scottish Immigration Memorial Cairn.
This cairn (a traditional Scottish stack of stones) commemorates the thousands of Highland Scots who first stepped foot in America right here at Brunswick. From this port, they traveled up the Cape Fear River to settle the “Upper Cape Fear” region.
- A House Divided: These immigrants became an integral—and often tragic—part of the American Revolution. While many became “Fiery Patriots,” others remained Loyalist Highlanders, bound by oaths to the King. This cultural split eventually led to the bloody clash at Moore’s Creek Bridge.
Planning Your Visit
Before you head out into the ruins, don’t miss the Visitor Center Museum. It houses artifacts found on-site, from Spanish coins to Revolutionary War buttons.
- Pro-Tip: Check their calendar for Living History events. Seeing the militia fire muskets amidst the shell of St. Philip’s Church brings the “Garrison” atmosphere of 1781 back to life. The staff is incredibly friendly and can point out specific foundations belonging to famous residents like the Royal Governors.
Fort Johnston: The Last Stand of Royal Authority
Just down the road from Brunswick Town, the quaint coastal village of Southport holds the key to one of the most critical moments in North Carolina’s Revolutionary history: Fort Johnston. Built in 1745 to protect the Cape Fear from Spanish and French privateers, it holds the distinction of being the first fort ever built in North Carolina. By 1775, it became the final, crumbling refuge for British authority in the colony.
What makes this spot so Revolutionary? After the shots at Lexington and Concord in April 1775, Royal Governor Josiah Martin realized he was no longer safe at the Governor’s Palace (Tryon Palace) in New Bern. Fearing capture by the growing Patriot movement, he fled to Fort Johnston in late May. He hoped the fort’s cannons and nearby British warships would shield him, but the reality was grim: the fort was in disrepair, and many of his guards had simply walked off their posts.
The Patriot March and the “Governor at Sea” On July 18, 1775, a force of roughly 500 Minutemen—militia ready to move at a moment’s notice—marched on the fort. Governor Martin, catching wind of the impending attack, fled to the safety of the HMS Cruizer just offshore.
On July 19th, Patriot leaders including John Ashe, Robert Howe, and Cornelius Harnett led their men onto the grounds. Recognizing that they couldn’t hold the fort against the heavy guns of British ships, they chose a more permanent solution: they burned Fort Johnston to the ground.
- Read about American Nomad’s visit to the 250th anniversary of The Burning of Fort Johnston here.
This was one of the most audacious acts of the early war—a physical destruction of the King’s property. For the next eight months, Martin was a “Governor at Sea,” living aboard a ship and frantically petitioning London for help. It was from this cabin that he helped orchestrate the plan for a Loyalist army of Scottish Highlanders to march from Cross Creek (modern-day Fayetteville) to the coast to restore him to power.
The Road to Moore’s Creek Martin’s dream of a Royal restoration ended in February 1776. Patriot forces led by James Moore and Richard Caswell intercepted the Highlanders at Moore’s Creek Bridge, handily defeating them and ending British hopes for North Carolina for years.
What to See Today
- The Garrison House: While the original wooden fort is gone, the current Garrison House (built c. 1810) stands on the original site. It now serves as the Southport Visitor Center and Museum, where you can see maps of the 1745 fortifications. There is also a history of Southport Museum, including historical exhibit on their famed Fourth of July Parade.
- Attached to the Visitor Center is the amazing North Carolina Maritime Museum at Southport
- The Waterfront View: Stand on the fort’s old parade ground (now a grassy park) and look out at the mouth of the Cape Fear River. This is the exact view Josiah Martin had from the deck of the Cruizer as he watched the smoke rise from his former stronghold and his authority crumble.
- Nearby, don’t miss the Indian Trail Tree at Keziah Memorial Park (a few blocks from Fort Johnston). This live oak, estimated to be 800 years old, would have witnessed all the Revolutionary War History and is a testament to resilience. This oak has survived, hurricanes, wars and blight to be a foundation of the Southport community.
The Old Smithville Burying Ground: A Silent Roll Call
After visiting the fort, take a short stroll to the Old Smithville Burying Ground. Established in the 1700s, this is one of the most atmospheric cemeteries in the South. Under the canopy of massive, wind-swept oaks, you will find the final resting places of the pilots, soldiers, and citizens who witnessed the collapse of the British Empire in North Carolina.
Southport was originally named Smithville (after my Uncle Benjamin Smith)…Smith was originally buried here, but later moved to Brunswick to be beside his wife Sarah Dry at St. Philip’s.
- Patriots of the Cape Fear: Look for the weathered markers of Revolutionary War soldiers who served under leaders like John Ashe and Robert Howe. These were the men who marched from Wilmington to burn Fort Johnston, effectively ending Royal Governor Martin’s rule.
- The Living Connection: Many of the family names you’ve seen throughout the Cape Fear—Moores, Caswells, and Smiths—are represented here. It is a powerful place to reflect on the cost of the “Six Years of Liberty” that followed the burning of the fort.
Pro-Tip: If you are a fan of Nicholas Sparks’ Safe Haven or other films shot in Southport, you might recognize these mossy oaks. But for history lovers, the real draw is the “Signers and Soldiers” who have watched over the river for nearly 250 years.
Want more travel insights on Southport? Check out our feature on Southport here.
Moore’s Creek Bridge: The “Lexington of the South”
No Revolutionary Cape Fear tour is complete without a visit to Moore’s Creek Bridge. This was one of the first decisive Patriot victories of the American Revolution—a battle so absolute that it effectively forced British authority out of North Carolina for the next five years.
Located roughly thirty minutes west of Wilmington in Pender County, the Moore’s Creek National Battlefield places you in the early hours of February 27, 1776. On that cold, misty morning, approximately 800 Patriot militia faced nearly 1,600 Loyalists, most of whom were Scottish Highlanders.
The Commanders & The Ruse The Loyalist force was commanded by Brigadier General Donald MacDonald, a veteran officer of the British Army. (Note: He was not the husband of the famous Flora MacDonald, though they were kinsmen). On the march from Cross Creek, the elderly MacDonald fell seriously ill and was captured shortly after the battle. Field command during the fight passed to Captain Donald McLeod, who led the fatal charge.
The Patriots, led by Richard Caswell and Alexander Lillington, utilized a brilliant ruse. They left their campfires burning on the far side of the creek to trick the Highlanders into thinking they had abandoned their positions. In reality, the Patriots had crossed the bridge, entrenched themselves behind earthworks, and prepared a deadly “greased” trap.
The Strategy of the “Slippery Slope” Anticipating the Loyalists’ route, the Patriots removed the floorboards from the bridge and greased the remaining log sleepers (support beams) with lard and soap.
- The “Culloden” Echo: Many of the older Highlanders were veterans of the Battle of Culloden (1746). They attempted the same traditional “Highland Charge” that had failed them decades earlier in Scotland.
- The Weaponry: The Highlanders relied on broadswords and dirks—devastating in close quarters, but useless here. As they slipped and struggled across the greased beams, the Patriots opened fire with muskets and two cannons: “Mother Covington” (a 2½-pounder) and “Small Girl” (a swivel gun).
- The Result: The battle lasted a mere three to five minutes. Captain Donald McLeod was reportedly struck by as many as twenty musket balls during the initial charge.
Aftermath: The Birth of Independence The Patriot victory was total. They captured a vast cache of supplies, including 1,500 muskets, 350 broadswords, and £15,000 in gold. This victory gave the North Carolina Provincial Congress the “teeth” it needed; just six weeks later, on April 12, 1776, they adopted the Halifax Resolves, making North Carolina the first colony to officially call for independence from Great Britain.
Bonnie Lass of Scotland: Flora MacDonald
While the Patriots celebrated their victory, the aftermath was a catastrophe for the local Scottish loyalists community—specifically for the legendary Flora MacDonald.
Famed for aiding Bonnie Prince Charlie’s escape in Scotland, Flora had immigrated to the Cape Fear in 1774. Despite her past defiance of the Crown, she and her husband, Allan MacDonald, remained fiercely loyal to King George III.
I have often been perplexed why they would fervently rebel against the crown for the Stuart heir in Scotland, yet remain so steadfastly Loyalist during the American Revolution. The answer lies in the scars of the past:
- The Price of Rebellion: After losing so much in the bloody aftermath of the Battle of Culloden (1746), many Highlanders simply did not want to risk the consequences of a failed rebellion again.
- The Sacred Oath: In that era, especially among the Scots, an Oath of Loyalty was considered a spiritually binding contract. Having sworn an oath to King George to be allowed to settle in Carolina, they felt bound by honor to keep it—even if it meant fighting their neighbors.
Tradition holds that Flora, ever the leader, mounted a white stallion and rode among the Highland ranks at Cross Creek, urging the men in Gaelic to remain true to their word and fight for the King.
Following the defeat at Moore’s Creek:
- Her husband, Allan, was captured and imprisoned for several years.
- Her plantation, Killiegray, was plundered and eventually confiscated.
- Flora herself endured harassment and loss of property, eventually fleeing North Carolina to return to Scotland, famously stating she had been “beaten by both” sides of the Atlantic’s wars.
What to See Today
- The Reconstructed Bridge: Walk the exact path of the Highlanders and see the “greased” beams for yourself.
- The Earthworks: View the original mounds where Caswell’s men placed “Mother Covington.”
- The Loyalist Monument: Moore’s Creek is unique for having a monument dedicated to the fallen Highlanders, a poignant reminder of the “Civil War” nature of the Revolution in the South.
- The Mary Slocumb Monument: A tribute to the legendary “Midnight Rider” of the Cape Fear who allegedly rode 60 miles to tend to the wounded.
Stay tuned! I’ll be visiting Moore’s Creek in January and look forward to sharing the adventure and history with American Nomad readers soon!
America 250 Travelers Get Excited for the First in Freedom Festival celebrating the 250th anniversary of Moores Creek Bridge, Feb. 21st-28th in Currie, NC (Pender County), about thirty-five minutes west of Wilmington. The highlight? Outlander’s Diana Gabaldon will be attending! Get the full scoop here.
This wraps up this edition of Revolutionary Roads with our tour of Wilmington and the Cape Fear.
Still hungry for more Cape Fear Revolutionary War History, I’ll continue to share stories and hidden history from this region into 2026. Don’t forget to subscribe for the latest posts.
Need help planning your adventure, feel free to message me (Adele) for tips. I also recommend checking out resources from Wilmington CVB -they provide in-depth itineraries, and guides to planning your perfect getaway.
Other Resources:
Port of Call: Four Days in Wilmington – Recap of my recent Wilmington adventure from Revolutionary War to great eats.
Destination Coffee: Wilmington – my Substack on Wilmington’s Coffee Scene
Are you interested in collaborating with American Nomad Traveler…or have an idea for a story? Contact Adele at: americannomadtraveler@gmail.com or use the form below
About American Nomad:
Hi, I’m Adele Lassiter, the travel enthusiast behind American Nomad Traveler. This is where I share my love for history, cool museums, art, and travel tips. When I’m not writing, I’m a singer-songwriter with a passion for Americana music. You can find my new album here: adelelassiter.bandcamp.com
You can also follow us on facebook for the latest blog posts, cool reels, daily history and travel tips
We also have a podcast and vlog – American Nomad Traveler is available on all streaming platforms through Buzzsprout and on YouTube
We are now on Substack for additional content from Travel to History to Art and beyond…
Love Art History? Check out our sister blog: artexpeditiontours.com or find us on facebook
Outstading!