In early May 2025, my mom and I embarked on a five-day adventure, starting from our hometown of Raleigh, NC, and heading north to explore Virginia’s rich history. Our “Revolutionary Adventures” took us from the colonial streets of Williamsburg and a once in a lifetime Michelangelo exhibit at William & Mary’s Muscarelle Museum of Art, to the coastal charm of Virginia Beach and Yorktown, then inland to Richmond, before culminating in the picturesque Blue Ridge Mountains of Charlottesville and James Madison’s Montpelier. In the coming posts, I’ll share more about the history and offer travel tips for exploring Virginia’s Liberty Trails.
Virginia has long been one of my favorite states to visit. It boasts a rich tapestry of history, from its Native American and Colonial Roots to the American Revolution and beyond. What truly makes Virginia special is its diverse natural scenery, ranging from the serene coastal shores and scenic Chesapeake Bay region to the majestic Blue Ridge Mountains and the tranquil Shenandoah River Valley.
Over the years, we’ve had the pleasure of visiting numerous sites across Virginia on American Nomad Traveler. Each trip brings new discoveries and a deeper appreciation for the state’s countless treasures. This particular Mother’s Day journey allowed my mom and me to revisit beloved spots like Colonial Williamsburg to The Blue Ridge Parkway, while also making time to explore new scenic and historical landmarks. Colonial Williamsburg, just a three-hour drive from Raleigh, is an ideal weekend getaway. My mom and I often find ourselves drawn back to Williamsburg several times a year. Our absolute favorite time to visit is during Christmas, when the Colonial district is beautifully adorned with historically inspired wreaths. Downtown Williamsburg’s Merchant’s Square transforms into a winter wonderland with an ice skating rink, carolers, and delightful shops and restaurants that are sure to lift your spirits. For an extra dose of holiday cheer, Busch Gardens Christmas Town is a must-visit, offering Broadway-quality holiday shows and over a million festive lights.
Why Visit Williamsburg in Spring and Summer?
While I love North Carolina’s beaches, Williamsburg, especially in the spring and summer, offers an incredibly affordable “beach trip” alternative with its rich history and close proximity to the coast. You can enjoy beautiful waterfront views at spots like York River State Park and the historic riverfront in Yorktown, all just about 45 minutes from the ocean. Nearby Virginia Beach, Norfolk, and Newport News are also within easy driving distance, providing tons of cultural, historical, and coastal fun without breaking the bank.
I’ve been visiting Williamsburg since I was a child, and even now, I still haven’t explored everything this region has to offer. That’s why I always emphasize Williamsburg and its surrounding areas as a fantastic, affordable option for all types of travelers—whether you’re on a solo adventure, a romantic getaway, or a family vacation. There’s truly something for everyone here.
In this post, I’ll kick off our Virginia Adventures with a breakdown of our five-day itinerary, before diving into each stop and providing detailed travel resources in subsequent posts.
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Day One:
May 7th – On the Road to Williamsburg VA
A Revolutionary Detour to Historic Halifax, NC
On Wednesday afternoon, May 7th, my mom and I left Raleigh, heading northeast towards Williamsburg. While our usual route takes us via I-85 to Richmond, we opted for a Revolutionary War detour to Historic Halifax, NC. Regular readers of the blog will know I’m a Revolutionary War buff, and I’ve been making a point to visit and learn about historic sites in preparation for the 250th anniversary of the signing of the Declaration of Independence in 2026. I’ll be detailing these “Revolutionary Adventures” on American Nomad with our Liberty Trails 250 series, so be sure to subscribe for the latest posts!
Located just off I-95, just south of the Roanoke Rapids area, Halifax is one of North Carolina’s oldest communities, boasting over a dozen standing Revolutionary War-era buildings. The town’s historic living corridor is preserved as a North Carolina State Historic Park interpretative site. I’ll dedicate a specific post to Historic Halifax soon, but for now, it’s important to know that Halifax played a pivotal role in America’s independence. On April 12th, 1776, North Carolina’s Fourth Provincial Congress adopted what became known as the Halifax Resolves.
The Halifax Resolves marked the first official provincial action in any of the colonies to call for total independence from Great Britain. These Resolves specifically instructed North Carolina’s delegation to the Second Continental Congress in Philadelphia to not only form foreign alliances but also to seek and vote for independence. As such, they became a significant factor in the escalating movement towards independence, ultimately contributing to the drafting of the Declaration of Independence, adopted on July 4, 1776. While Richard Henry Lee’s Resolution of Independence later formally introduced a resolution to break from Great Britain (introduced on June 7th, 1776 – a fact we learned during our visit to Independence Hall in March), the Halifax Resolves uniquely empowered North Carolina to be the first state to vote for independence by decree of their legislature and to begin conceptualizing its own leadership as that of an independent state.
Halifax truly is a town where the past and present meet. The NC Historic Site provides a fascinating window into the Colonial era and the early years of America’s fight for freedom. The community will be hosting numerous historical events throughout 2025 and 2026 to celebrate the 250th anniversary of American Independence, making it an ideal companion to Colonial Williamsburg for a Revolutionary War road trip.
I’ll profile Halifax later this month, but these links will help jump start your Halifax Resolves getaway.
Where to Stay: While Halifax has multiple chain hotels in the greater Roanoke Rapids/Halifax vicinity, I highly recommend the historic John Brown House B&B. Located within the historic district, this charming bed and breakfast offers a more immersive experience. Another great option is the Bellamy Manor & Gardens Bed and Breakfast in nearby Enfield NC. This inn, is nestled in a gracious estate surrounded by inviting gardens.
Plan your Historic Halifax State Site Visit here
Visit Halifax County – Official Tourism site
Continuing to Williamsburg: A Scenic Drive Through History
After our mini-tour of Halifax, we continued north, past Petersburg and towards Hopewell (just outside Richmond), before heading east across the James River towards Williamsburg. While there are other ways to reach Williamsburg, this particular route offers a remarkably scenic drive through the historic heart of the James River region, by Charles City area. As you travel, it’s easy to imagine the early Colonial settlements that once dotted these lands.
The picturesque farmland, meandering creeks, and the river itself seem to whisper echoes of the past, with centuries-old plantation homes like Historic Berkeley Plantation (site of the first Thanksgiving in America in 1619 – yes before the Pilgrims), President John Tyler’s Sherwood Forest, and Shirley Plantation gracing the landscape. While some of these homes remain private property, various historic home tours are offered throughout the year, providing a unique glimpse into these early American estates.
I’m particularly drawn to this region’s history, as several ancestors on my father’s side of the family originally settled in Jamestown and eventually moved to this very section of land near the James River.
Staying in Williamsburg:
Williamsburg has tons of wonderful hotels from chains to historic inns. On this trip we stayed at The Country Inn and Suites by Radisson, which I thoroughly enjoyed. This hotel is a five minute drive from Colonial Williamsburg and Merchant’s Square areas. The hotel was clean and included a decent continental style breakfast. I’ll provide a guide to hotels and my favorite restaurants in an upcoming post. Two other hotels I enjoy returning too include The Hampton Inn (Historic area or Capital Landing Road are great) and Colonial Williamsburg’s Woodlands Hotel.
The Woodlands is great if you have kids, as it has a great playground and pool area. You also can get your Colonial Williamsburg passes included with your stay (depending on the package). Woodlands has a shuttle to and from the hotel and Colonial Williamsburg sites like The Visitor’s Center and Merchants Square area.
Day Two: Thursday, May 8th – From Renaissance Wonders to Revolutionary Roots
One of the main reasons for this particular visit to Williamsburg was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see an art exhibit featuring 25 preparatory drawings by Renaissance Master Michelangelo for The Sistine Chapel. These incredible works, part of the “Michelangelo: The Genesis of The Sistine” exhibit, were on display at William & Mary’s Muscarelle Museum of Art from March 6 to June 1, 2025. This landmark exhibit, which opened on Michelangelo’s 550th birthday, marked the first time most of these rare drawings had been in the United States.
The Muscarelle itself is a hidden gem in Williamsburg. Located just steps from downtown on William & Mary’s historic campus, this wonderful museum boasts a permanent collection that pays homage to “The Alma Mater of The Nation.” Highlights include an early map of Jamestown dating back to the 1630s. William & Mary, founded in 1693, holds the distinction of being the second oldest university in the United States (after Harvard) and earned its nickname as’ the alma mater of the nation’ as many influential early Americans like Presidents George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, James Monroe and John Tyler as well as many others attended the school. Its permanent collection features works from American masters such as Copley, West, and Georgia O’Keeffe.
The Genius of Michelangelo: Sistine Chapel Exhibit
Michelangelo, the quintessential perfectionist, famously destroyed many of his preparatory drawings and sketches before his death. Only about fifty of his preparatory drawings for The Sistine Chapel survive, making the opportunity to see twenty-five in one exhibit truly remarkable. The exhibit was curated by Italian art expert Adriano Marinazzo. Originally from Italy, Adriano previously worked at Casa Buonarroti (Michelangelo’s home), where he notably identified the first known sketch of Michelangelo’s plans for the Sistine Chapel. His unparalleled knowledge of Michelangelo and these drawings, in his role as Curator of Special Projects for the Muscarelle, truly brought this exhibit to life.
Given their fragility (around 500 years old), these sketches can only be displayed for approximately three months before returning to a protected vault for five years. So, when I say “once-in-a-lifetime,” this was genuinely a landmark opportunity.
Art, Faith, and Process
Beyond American Nomad, I also share my passion for art history on Art Expeditions, where we travel the world through art, exploring museums and discovering art history. You can find my blog post on The Michelangelo exhibit. Additionally, you can explore my overview of The Muscarelle’s permanent collection and other special exhibitions [here]
What was particularly moving for my mom and me during our visit was the timing: while we were immersed in this exhibit, the Papal Conclave was voting on Pope Leo XIV’s appointment inside the actual Sistine Chapel in The Vatican. Michelangelo often worried that he would be perceived as “less than a divine painter” for relying on preparatory sketches. However, for me, seeing his meticulous process only deepened my appreciation for his genius. As an artist, I love to study the masters and understand how they brought their works into being. Art is not just about creativity; it’s also a process. Witnessing how Michelangelo combined logic and divine inspiration to create something as magnificent as the Sistine Chapel was both humbling and profoundly special.
I eagerly look forward to visiting the Muscarelle Museum again and trust they will continue to host many more fantastic exhibitions in the future. Plan Your Trip to the Muscarelle here.
If you love art and history, I also highly recommend a visit to the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Folk Art Museum, part of Colonial Williamsburg’s impressive museum complex. This museum boasts a fantastic folk art collection alongside one of the best early-American portraiture collections, featuring works by artists like Sully, Stuart, and the renowned African American portraitist Joshua Johnson. You’ll also find beautiful examples of early American furniture from New England, Virginia, and Charleston.
After our fantastic guided tour of the Michelangelo exhibit, my mom and I decided to take advantage of the beautiful 75-degree sunny weather and drive to Virginia Beach to view the Cape Henry Lighthouse. The drive takes about an hour, give or take, with moderate traffic. I’m fascinated by historic lighthouses, and I was particularly intrigued by the fact that the original Cape Henry Lighthouse, dating to 1792, was the first federally funded public works project of the nascent United States government. Its construction was authorized by President George Washington himself, the first in a series of federal lighthouse projects, and notably overseen by Alexander Hamilton! Nearby, you can also spot the 1881 “New” Cape Henry Lighthouse, though it’s not open to the public.
Unfortunately, during my research for this visit, I failed to note that the lighthouse is located on an active military base. While I carry a REAL ID, my mom is still in the process of getting hers, and we were regretfully not allowed to visit the lighthouse due to insufficient identification. When planning your visit to Cape Henry, be prepared to bring your passport (or REAL ID) and be aware that you will need to go through several security checks to reach the lighthouse. Learn from my mistake!
First Landing State Park: History Meets the Beach
Unable to access the lighthouse, my mom and I pivoted to the next item on our Virginia Beach bucket list: the nearby First Landing State Park. This is a truly wonderful place to spend a day at the beach! The state park offers beautiful beachfront views and a fantastic museum that details this spot’s profound historical significance. It’s the very location where the original Jamestown settlers first landed on American soil on April 1607 before they moved up the James River to establish their permanent settlement.
The museum features interactive displays, including journal entries from men who sailed on the voyage, as well as a detailed timeline of the Jamestown Colony. The park also provides a wealth of information about the Native Americans who inhabited the area at the time of The First Landing. For more information about the history check out this article from The Friends of James Landing State Park.
If you’re staying in Williamsburg and looking to enjoy a day at the beach, I wholeheartedly recommend First Landing State Park. You won’t be disappointed.
Virginia Beach’s Hidden Colonial Gems
As a history buff, I’m always on the lookout for unexpected historical detours. Just prior to this trip, I discovered that Virginia Beach is home to numerous Colonial-era homes, several of which are among the oldest on the Eastern Seaboard! While our time on this trip didn’t allow for a deep dive into all of Virginia Beach’s historic sites, we were fortunate to stop by the 18th-century Thoroughgood House, built in 1719. This fascinating site offers both a museum and a guided home tour, providing a wonderful glimpse into early American life. The home was built by Argal Thorowgood II, great-grandson of earlier colonial leader Adam Thorowgood and the area that would eventually become Virginia Beach. Stay tuned for a dedicated post highlighting Virginia Beach’s rich historical sites!
List of Virginia Beach’s Historic Museums – Official VA Beach Website
After filling up our tank, we headed back to Williamsburg by way of the important seaport of Norfolk. Norfolk is known as a naval capital and military hub, but it also is a charming riverside and oceanfront city that has fantastic museums, restaurants and waterfront views. One of my future travel goals is to return to Norfolk to visit the world-class Chrysler Museum of Art, which has one of the best collections of art in the southeast. While we didn’t have a ton of time to explore Norfolk this trip, my mom and I did drive through a few neighborhoods and scout out places we’d like to return to. I didn’t realize that Norfolk has lots of great oceanfront hotels and condos close to fresh seafood joints. I look forward to returning in the early fall to explore Norfolk in depth. Plan your Norfolk adventures here
Arriving back in Williamsburg just after five o’clock, we headed straight for Merchant’s Square, the downtown historic hub of Williamsburg for an early dinner. Merchant’s Square is one of the most charming downtowns in America, with its Colonial inspired charm and vibrant bustle of retail shops, restaurants and community events. It is a place I love to return to time and again. Merchant’s Square is home to several of my favorite Williamsburg eateries.
We initially tried to eat in the Blue Talon Bistro, a delightful French inspired restaurant known for its steak frites. Unfortunately they were on an hour wait, so we decided to go to another favorite, the nearby Duke of Gloucester Pub (DoG). The interior has a Colonial Georgian architectural design, with modern pub decor. DoG has a ‘spirited menu’ of mouthwatering mixed drinks, local ales and wine. My mom ordered their seasonal sangria, which was made in house with a mixture of peach and other herbs. It was light and delicious. I decided to toast to our trip with my go-to an Aperol Spritz. For our main meal, we split the burger and pub fries and a house salad. The food was delicious and the service impeccable. Our waiter, Carter, was friendly and gave us tips about other good places to eat and fun things to do over the summer in Williamsburg. The entire staff made us feel welcome. I look forward to returning to DoG on our next Williamsburg adventure.
Twilight Stroll in Colonial Williamsburg
With just 90 minutes of daylight remaining, my mom and I meandered through the historic streets of Colonial Williamsburg, immediately transported back to circa 1760-1776. Costumed colonials strolled along, their day winding down, while dedicated historical guides led a group of middle schoolers through the area, bringing the past to life.
Colonial Williamsburg truly embodies the spirit of 1776 and the early beginnings of the American ideals of liberty, justice, and the pursuit of happiness that we still strive for today. I’ll dive deeper into Colonial Williamsburg’s rich history and key sites in a future post, but for now, let me emphasize: it is an absolute must-see destination for any American history lover.
Here are a few highlights from our stroll…
As dusk settled, we took time for quiet reflection and prayers in the historic cemetery of Bruton Parish Church. Founded in 1674, with its current structure dating back to 1711, this beautiful church remains an active Episcopal (Anglican) congregation. The evening we visited, the air was filled with the delightful sounds of a free Bruton Baroque Concert emanating from within – a truly lovely atmosphere. You can check out their concert schedule here.
On select days, the church also offers tours detailing its rich history, providing a chance to see where iconic figures like Thomas Jefferson and George Washington once worshipped. I’ve had the pleasure of attending a prayer service here on a previous visit, and it’s truly a special and profoundly historic place.
The George Wythe House is undeniably my favorite place to visit in Colonial Williamsburg. Wythe (pronounced “With”) was not only the first law professor in the United States but is also widely considered the Father of American Jurisprudence. He was a man of profound science, logic, faith, and deep empathy, particularly for the least fortunate in society. Notably, he was an abolitionist who freed his slaves.
As a professor, he was beloved by his students, including prominent figures like Thomas Jefferson and, in later years, Henry Clay. We’ll even visit his tomb at St. John’s Church in Richmond a bit later in our journey! Wythe was also one of Virginia’s signers of the Declaration of Independence, a momentous act alongside his protégé, Declaration author Thomas Jefferson. The George Wythe House itself is one of the original homes dating back to the Colonial era in Williamsburg, making it an absolute must-see while in the historic district.
Ready to plan your trip to Colonial Williamsburg – here is a link to the official Colonial Williamsburg site. While you can walk many of the Colonial streets for free, admission gets you access to exclusive tours of The Governor’s Mansion and Gardens, interior of George Wythe House, re-enactments of the House of Burgesses and more.
We capped off our evening by splitting a milkshake from Kilwins in the Merchant’s Square area. There are several delicious places to grab ice cream in downtown Williamsburg, including Illy Gelato, Secret Garden Cafe (they have great tea too), Barkery (for ice cream sandwiches)…
Day Three: Along The York River
Our day started off cloudy with a bit of rain, but as the sunshine emerged, my mom and I decided to take full advantage of the beautiful spring weather to explore York River State Park. I’d actually learned about this gem during our last trip to Williamsburg from a local who knew I was a nature lover. This state park truly offers stunning views of the York River, excellent waterfront paddling access, and a fascinating window into the unique ecosystems of this section of the York River before it flows into the Atlantic Ocean.
Unfortunately, the visitor’s center was closed for a one-off staff meeting during our visit. However, a friendly ranger outside provided us with valuable insights into the park’s sites, including a peaceful walking trail and the location of an active Osprey nest. This park is truly a tranquil spot for a picnic, a relaxing stroll through the woods, or simply enjoying the riverfront views.
Interestingly, this very area was explored by John Smith during his expeditions around Jamestown, and you can learn about the early settlements and Native American communities who frequented the region.
The true jewel of this park, however, is birdwatching. While I didn’t have my binoculars this time, I’ll definitely bring them on my next visit! We were still lucky enough to spot two ospreys and their chick. The park also features a nice playground, making it a great option for families.
Beyond its historical sites, Williamsburg and the surrounding region leading up to the Chesapeake Bay offer an abundance of natural scenery and important wildlife habitats. This area serves as a fantastic basecamp for outdoor adventures, particularly for hikers and kayakers. A crucial tip: remember to pack bug spray and wear sunscreen, as the summer months here can be brutal with mosquitoes. Luckily, the cooler spring temperatures and slightly overcast sky made it a perfect day for birdwatching and relaxing by the river during our visit.
Yorktown: Where America Was Won
Around noon, my mom and I headed to Yorktown, arguably one of the most important places to visit in America. In October 1781, this quaint village on the York River became the decisive battleground where George Washington’s Patriot troops, significantly aided by French military generals like Rochambeau and Lafayette, faced the might of the British Army under General Cornwallis.
Less than a year before, the American Revolution was at a stalemate. The Continental Army faced low morale after a series of blows and a dire lack of funds to pay its troops, with Washington constantly pleading with Congress for food and wages for his men. The British weren’t faring much better; they held New York but were frustrated by the war’s mounting cost and toll on their army.
In 1780, General Clinton of the British Army decided to shift the war to the South, mistakenly believing that backcountry loyalists would rise up to defeat the patriots and secure a final British victory. Charleston, a long-standing hotbed of patriot activity (my direct ancestor, Thomas Heyward Jr., a Signer of the Declaration of Independence, was active in Charleston’s patriotic movement), was devastated by a British siege in May 1780. All seemed lost for the Southern theater.
And yet, through a series of fierce skirmishes and major battles in the South Carolina and North Carolina backcountry in 1780-1781, Cornwallis was ultimately forced to flee the Carolinas. He then made the strategic decision to operate in Virginia’s coastal regions around the James and Appomattox Rivers. It was at Yorktown that the standoff between Cornwallis and General Washington finally came to a head. By what many believe to be divine intervention, the French fleet arrived just in time, securing the win by effectively surrounding Cornwallis and forcing his surrender.
Needless to say, General Clinton, then in New York (the British capital in America), was furious with Cornwallis. Without the pivotal victory at Yorktown, the United States of America as it stands today might never have come to be.
Planning Your Visit to Yorktown
If it’s your first visit, I highly recommend blocking off an entire day at Yorktown. You can start your tour at the American Revolution Museum at Yorktown, which provides a comprehensive overview of what led to the American Revolution (covering issues like the Stamp Act, Townshend Acts, and other events that triggered calls for Independence) to information about key battles and figures in the war leading up to Yorktown.
From there, you can easily travel to the Yorktown National Military Park (NPS site). Its visitor center features a wonderful film offering a concise overview of The Battle of Yorktown in October 1781, as well as a number of engaging interactive exhibits. Afterwards, you can follow a self-guided auto tour of the various parts of the battlefield to learn about key moments at each historic site.
Exploring Historic Yorktown Village
For this visit, my mom and I decided to explore the village of Yorktown itself. This small, walkable town, nestled on the York River, simply exudes charm, history, and a strong sense of community spirit. Many of its buildings date back to the eighteenth century—with a few even from the seventeenth—standing as silent witnesses in brick, mortar, and wood to the epic events of nearly 250 years ago.
We were fortunate to find off-street parking near The Gallery at York, a vibrant community arts gallery in the heart of the historic district. With breakfast long worn off, I was ready for an afternoon coffee. Yorktown boasts several delicious lunch spots and coffee shops, including Mobjack Roasters and Petite Cafe and the nearby Little York Confectionary.
Little York Confectionary, hands down, is one of the coolest coffee shops I’ve ever visited, primarily because history just palpitates from its walls. It’s housed in one of Yorktown’s oldest buildings, dating back to circa 1690! Beyond its incredible atmosphere, the shop sells delicious chocolate treats and ice cream, famously approved by Lafayette himself (whose cardboard cutout stands inside alongside of Washington and Hamilton!). The incredibly helpful barista gave us tons of tips about things to do in Yorktown and recommended we try their sister restaurant, Mobjack Coffee, next time, which also serves sandwiches.
The barista also clued me in about the Little York Trolley Tour, which provides a fantastic guided history tour of both key battlefield sites and the historic village of Yorktown.
After getting our caffeine fix (you need energy to battle the British, after all!), we meandered through Yorktown’s historic streets. At Grace Episcopal Church’s historic graveyard, we were able to pay homage to one of Virginia’s great patriots, Thomas Nelson, Jr. Nelson, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, lived in Yorktown, and his house still stands today. He was famously present at the battle and even instructed the Continental Army to shoot at his own house in hopes of dislodging the British forces occupying it. During the Civil War, The Nelson House was used as a hospital for wounded soldiers from the Civil War battles at Yorktown.
I always like to take time in cemeteries to research those buried there; every life truly has a story worth telling.
Yorktown’s scenic waterfront is a place we return to time and again. In addition to charming local shops, you’ll find several inviting waterfront restaurants and a public beach perfect for swimming and relaxing by the water. Next time, I’m hoping to check into one of Yorktown’s lovely bed and breakfasts, which are conveniently just steps away from both restaurants and historic sites.
Stay tuned, as I will be doing an upcoming feature focused solely on Yorktown!
In the interim, here are helpful links to help plan your Yorktown adventure:
Traveling through History to Newport News
It was around 3 o’clock we decided to drive a few miles down the road to Newport News to view two historic homes in the area, Endview and Lee Hall. We were aware that the interior tour of the houses were closed that day, but we would be able to take pictures and walk around the properties to get a taste of each’s history and architectural beauty.
Endview dates back to the 18th-century and is one of the oldest homes in present-day Newport News. During the Colonial Era, this area was mostly settled by farmers and rural plantations. It became a city after The Civil War, turning into an industrialized center for shipbuilding. Endview was built in 1769 by William Harwood along what was known then as ‘The Great Warwick Road,’ linking the colonial capital of Williamsburg with the town of Hampton. Harwood was an ardent patriot and political leader. General Thomas Nelson, whose grave we visited in Yorktown, stopped at Endview with his Virginia militia as a resting place on September 28, 1781, en route to Yorktown. After the war, the Harwood descendants eventually moved to Kentucky.
It was later inhabited by Dr. Humphrey Harwood Curtis Jr. who was a Confederate who organized a volunteer infantry company of 80 members known as Warwick Beauregard’s to protect local interests. The property was used by Confederate troops as a field hospital during the April 1862 Battle of the Dam Number One, which you can learn about here.
Completed in 1859, Lee Hall was home to affluent planter Richard D. Lee (no known relation to Robert E. Lee per my research). One of the last remaining antebellum homes on the Virginia Peninsula, Lee Hall offers visitors a step back to the mid-Victorian period with its authentically furnished rooms, including an elegant ladies parlor. During the spring of 1862, the home was used as a headquarters by Confederate generals Johnston and Magruder. Visit Lee Hall
The area around Williamsburg was involved with heavy fighting during May 1862 and the Battle of Williamsburg – you can learn about Williamsburg in The Civil War here.
With a few hours of daylight left, we decided to get a view of the Chesapeake Bay at another historic town called Gloucester, located about thirty minutes north of Newport News and Yorktown.
Gloucester’s town center is anchored by a historic square, preserving buildings that date back to the years prior to and during the Civil War. Perhaps the most striking of these is the old debtors’ prison, a stark reminder of early legal practices.
Beyond its colonial and Civil War history, Gloucester also offers a deeper look into the region’s past. Nearby, you’ll find a statue of Pocahontas and interpretive information about the Powhatan tribes that lived here. There is also a historical marker dedicated to the renowned physician Walter Reed, whose birthplace is nearby. Walter Reed helped to find the cure for Yellow Fever. Learn more here.
Crucially, Gloucester was founded in 1651 on what was once the site of Werowocomoco, the capital city of the Powhatan Confederacy—a powerful union of thirty indigenous tribes under a paramount chief. In 2003, archaeologists confirmed that a dense village had been located at this very site from approximately 1200 AD to the early 17th century, underscoring its profound significance long before European arrival.
It was a beautiful sunset view as we caught a view of the gentle rolling waves of the Mobjack Bay (part of Chesapeake Bay) near Gloucester.
We headed back to Williamsburg as the sun began to fade into the night. We decided to grab dinner at Carrabba’s, which sounds silly as it is a chain, but there is not one within thirty minutes of Raleigh and it was open after nine o’clock (we had a late dinner). They have some great gluten free pasta options and it ended up being a great spot for dinner.
Day Four: Saturday, May 10th – Give Me Liberty or Give Me Death!
Sadly, this was our last day based in Williamsburg, but our adventures were just beginning as we kicked off a day honoring the great American patriot and Virginian, Patrick Henry.
Before leaving Williamsburg, my mom and I returned downtown for a stop at one of our favorite local coffee spots, Aroma’s. This popular hangout, not far from Colonial Williamsburg and William & Mary, features an array of delicious omelets, sandwiches (including gluten-free bread), muffins, and smoothies—plus all the coffee and tea you can dream about. Be warned, though: it gets busy here in the early morning, but it was absolutely worth the wait for our latte and smoothies. The perfect power breakfast to start our day!
Richmond’s Icon of Independence: St. John’s Church
As a Revolutionary War buff, Richmond’s icon of Independence, St. John’s Church, has been on my radar for a while. This is the very site where, in March 1775, Patrick Henry delivered his famous “Give Me Liberty or Give Me Death” speech to the House of Burgesses. Get ready for an in-depth tour in an upcoming American Nomad post, but here’s a quick rundown.
St. John’s is still an active Episcopal Parish in Richmond’s historic Church Hill neighborhood. The St. John’s Church Foundation works tirelessly to preserve this historical building and educate the public about the crucial history that unfolded here. Via their website, you can purchase tickets for their excellent guided tour. The tour lasts about an hour and provides a superb overview of the church’s history, relevant Richmond history, and what precisely led to the push for Independence. It powerfully explains why Patrick Henry’s “Give Me Liberty or Give Me Death” speech is one of the most important in American history.
In addition, St. John’s offers seasonal reenactments of the “Give Me Liberty” speech, with talented actors portraying Patrick Henry, Thomas Jefferson, Peyton Randolph (Speaker of the House of Burgesses during that speech), George Washington, and other pivotal figures in this part of Virginia and America’s patriotic history. Our tour guide, a retired history teacher, possessed a profound understanding of these events and made the history both digestible and entertaining. It certainly got me excited to learn even more about Patrick Henry and other important figures connected to St. John’s!
Purchase your tickets for tours and reenactments here
The Deep Roots of St. John’s Church
The current heart of the St. John’s Church building was constructed in 1741 and expanded over the years. It served as the parish church of Henrico Parish, an entity established as early as 1611. The parish’s initial location was at Sir Thomas Dale’s progressive Cittie of Henricus, now a state historic site in Virginia not far from modern Richmond’s city limits.
It was at Henricus that the first “college” in colonial Virginia was established, remarkably intended to educate both Native Americans and settlers. Here’s an interesting tidbit: colonists also held Pocahontas captive at Henricus. During this time, the first rector of the church, Reverend Alexander Whitaker, taught her about Christianity and helped her improve her English. She eventually fell in love with John Rolfe, who established Varina Farms across the James River.
In the 1730s, the Henrico Parish vestry accepted land from William Byrd II, founder of Richmond, and in 1741, this became the first church built in Richmond. The church’s construction was overseen by Colonel Richard Randolph, who was none other than Thomas Jefferson’s great-uncle.
While it is now known as St. John’s, the church was simply called the Henrico Parish Church when Patrick Henry gave his famous “Liberty or Death” speech here on March 23rd, 1775. Over the years, as Richmond grew, it was also affectionately known as the New Church, the Old Church, The Richmond Church, and The Church on the Hill.
Richmond’s Strategic Location and the Call for Independence
Arriving at St. John’s, the first thing you’ll notice is its commanding position high atop a hill within an already hilly neighborhood. During our tour, the guide explained Richmond’s unique geography: it sits on a bluff, higher than surrounding marshland, and it’s also here that the James River transforms into a powerful river with Class IV rapids.
While this makes for great whitewater rafting today, it was crucial to Richmond’s growth as an important merchant and trade city. Boats coming up the James from the east had to stop to unload their goods before portaging overland past the rapids, then reboarding to continue west into Virginia’s interior mountains through cities like Lynchburg and towards the Blue Ridge Parkway. The same process occurred for goods traveling from the west to the coast, making Richmond a necessary stop.
However, when Patrick Henry gave his speech, Richmond was a small town compared to the capital city of Williamsburg to the east. In fact, the emergency meeting of the House of Burgesses was held at St. John’s precisely because it was the only building in town large enough to house all the delegates—having only just been enlarged itself in 1772 to accommodate such a delegation.
The reason for this clandestine meeting in Richmond was that Lord Dunmore, the Royal Governor of Virginia, had dissolved the House of Burgesses, effectively limiting self-government. Unfazed, the House members were determined to meet about critical issues, including the rising tensions in Boston due to the Intolerable Acts. Richmond, located fifty miles from Williamsburg, provided sufficient distance and time for the legislators to flee if Lord Dunmore caught wind of their “traitorous meeting.”
It was during this pivotal meeting on March 23rd, 1775, that Patrick Henry, a fiery-tongued attorney from nearby Hanover County, passionately argued for Virginia to raise a militia to protect the colony against potential British force. While the colonies were not yet at war and raising a militia might seem treasonous, Henry correctly anticipated that the threat from British abuses would only intensify and that Independence was a path they needed to fight for. His speech was so powerful that it resonated beyond the church chambers and became a rallying cry for liberty across the colonies.
We’ll dig deeper into this compelling history in a dedicated “Patrick Henry Liberty Trail” post in a few weeks. In the meantime, I highly recommend watching the 250th anniversary reenactment from March 23rd, 2025, where you can see actors replay the drama of that day and learn about the profound importance of this event. You can often find recordings of this online. I also recommend following VA 250 Commission, which hosts American Revolution events leading up to the 250th
While at St. John’s Church, take time to explore the graveyard. Our tour guide took time to explain the differences between a cemetery and a graveyard. Graveyards are traditionally run by a church and located in a churchyard, while a cemetery is usually a public burial ground. However St. John’s Burial Ground is both as they agreed to let the city of Richmond bury some nonmembers in the burying ground. Many famous people are buried at St. John’s including George Wythe, who we met in Williamsburg.
Richmond replaced Williamsburg as the Capital in 1780 due to fear of attack on Williamsburg by the British, eventually Williamsburg became eclipsed by its neighbor to the west. In 1791, George Wythe, who was a judge in the state courts, found the trip back and forth exhausting and decided to move to Richmond, where he was a beloved citizen. Sadly, Wythe died tragically in June 1806 after being poisoned by his greedy nephew. This murder became the trial of the early nineteenth century. You can read about this sordid murder and investigation in the book ‘I am murdered,’ which I purchased at the St. John’s gift shop. George Wythe deserved so much better than poison. I made sure to say a prayer over his grave in memoriam.
Also buried in the cemetery is Edgar Allan Poe’s mother Eliza, who was a popular stage actress who died in Richmond from tuberculosis. Edgar was adopted by the Allan family of Richmond and added their surname as his middle name to pay homage to them. Richmond has a wonderful Edgar Allan Poe museum, which I hope to visit during my next trip to the city.
While in the gift shop, one of the staff and I were talking about our mutual passion for history and I mentioned we were planning to stop by Patrick Henry’s Hanover County home, Scotchtown, that afternoon. He provided a wealth of information about local Patrick Henry sites from where he worshipped to recommending we dine at The Hanover Tavern, which was the site of his father-in-law’s tavern. He also gave me tons of information for other historical sites to visit on my next trip to Richmond like the John Marshall House and Capitol.
Following his advice, we headed to Scotchtown. Unfortunately we arrived just after the final tour, but the friendly staff were gracious enough to let us walk the property and gave us an overview of Patrick Henry’s life at Scotchtown. Interesting fact: his cousin Dolley Payne (later Dolley Madison) stayed with the Henrys at Scotchtown for a time. Plan your visit to Scotchtown here.
We then proceeded to the church where Patrick Henry and his first wife were married. The Forks Church, before making our way through the peaceful pastoral backroads of Hanover County to the community of Hanover Courthouse, about thirty minutes from Richmond near the historic and artsy community of Ashland VA.
Henry’s father-in-law owned an inn and tavern in the community of Hanover Courthouse. In early America, many rural areas marked by farming required a central place for a courthouse for legal issues (including marriage certificates, home deeds) and other business. Hanover Courthouse was a center of activity in Hanover County. The current tavern was built in 1799, on the exact site of the original Colonial era tavern, where Henry lived and worked for a while with Sarah Shelton. Today it continues to operate as a fully functioning tavern with excellent farm to table food and is also home to The Barksdale Theatre, the oldest dinner theatre in the United States.
This 18th-century Tavern has stories to tell with each wooden beam and stone. The atmosphere transports you back to early America, where you can imagine men like Patrick Henry debating the issues of the day. This tavern site was a popular stopping point for delegates and businessmen en route to the capital city of Richmond. It is believed that founding fathers like George Washington and Thomas Jefferson stopped at the tavern from time to time for a pint and a ‘huzzah.’ The original tavern played host to notorious British General Lord Cornwallis and Bloody Banastre Tarleton, who had a reputation in the south as a ‘butcher.’
Today the atmosphere is spirited by locals and travelers enjoying a good meal and excellent hospitality from the restaurant staff. The waitstaff was super friendly and knowledgeable about the tavern’s history. My mom and I split a tavern burger and salads.
While we couldn’t catch a show this trip, I loved learning about the theatre and hope to return for a show soon. Virginia has lots of regional repertory theatres from Hampton to Hanover to Staunton to Abingdon. I’d love to take a theatrical tour of Virginia one day.
Across the street from the tavern you’ll stumble across the historic Hanover Courthouse, which has been used by the county of Hanover since its construction in the early 1740s. It was here in 1763, that Patrick Henry argued the famous Parson’s Cause, which you can read about here
The courthouse was used for trials until the 1970s, but now is primarily a historical site used for ceremonial county occasions. Can you imagine the centuries of law cases heard here – from disputes about crops, to theft to murder – I’m sure the stories could fill an entire bookshelf of history.
In addition to Patrick Henry, Hanover was also the birthplace of famed Congressman and Secretary of State Henry Clay who made his political career in Kentucky.
I look forward to returning to this area for a show and to dig deeper into Hanover’s rich history.
Spontaneous Adventure to Virginia’s Blue Ridge
As we were finishing dinner, my mom had a brilliant idea: Hotwire a hotel in Charlottesville so she could spend Mother’s Day in the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains, just an hour away. Knowing my cat was being well looked after by a family friend (with extra Churu as payment for my extended travel!), I readily agreed. “Let’s keep the adventure going!”
Charlottesville has always been a favorite destination for us on American Nomad. It’s truly one of my top mountain cities on the East Coast. My dad used to take me to Monticello every year when I was growing up—he was a great admirer of Thomas Jefferson, and we later discovered Jefferson is actually our cousin, which is a really cool connection! While we absolutely love Charlottesville itself, on this particular trip, we decided to use it as our basecamp for exploring the wider Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia.
*Charlottesville is home to the University of Virginia, Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello, James Monroe’s Ashland, amazing restaurants and shops, as well as ample access to nature from Shenandoah National Park to The Blue Ridge Parkway
After finishing our meal around six-thirty, we drove to Charlottesville on I-64. My mom was eager for dessert, so I quickly searched for local ice cream shops. We discovered a fantastic spot called Moo Thru, located in a restored Dairy Market food court, just a few miles from the University of Virginia campus. I’ll definitely dedicate a full post to Charlottesville soon to share more of its charm!
Day Five: Sunday, May 11th (Mother’s Day) – A Pilgrimage to Montpelier
As Mother’s Day dawned, I looked at the map and realized we were only about thirty-five minutes west of James Madison’s iconic home at Montpelier. I’ve wanted to visit Montpelier for years but had never quite made the detour east from Charlottesville. Given the significant Constitutional debates we face in modern times, I felt truly called to pay homage to Madison and make this pilgrimage. My mom and I decided to spend the morning and early afternoon touring the Madison home and deeply immersing ourselves in the life and legacy of the Father of The U.S. Constitution.
Exploring Montpelier’s History and Landscape
I’ll dedicate a full post to our tour and the profound history of Montpelier, but suffice it to say, I was blown away by our visit to this historic treasure. The natural scenery of the estate is simply beautiful, nestled within the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. You’re surrounded by undulating acres of open farmland, accompanied by dense, old-growth forests. Visitors can hike several tranquil trails through these ancient woods and tour the beautifully maintained gardens.
The property, which remained in Madison’s family for several generations, is packed with history. You learn about the earliest Madisons who lived there (including James Madison’s grandfather, Ambrose, who was tragically murdered at Montpelier), and delve into the lives of James’ parents, and his profound partnership with his beloved wife and best friend, Dolley Madison.
The tour does a superb job of paying homage to this remarkable American Founding Father, who not only helped draft the Constitution and Bill of Rights but also served as the Fourth President of the United States (among many other critical public service roles). Crucially, they also do an excellent job of lifting up the legacy and lives of the enslaved persons who worked on the plantation. This includes heroes like Paul Jennings, who bravely helped Dolley Madison save Washington’s portrait during the burning of Washington and the White House in the War of 1812.
Things to do at Montpelier:
Immerse yourself in the history of James Madison’s role in the Constitution and his life with Dolley Madison at the Visitor Center before taking the Historic Home Tour with expert guide, you can then learn about the enslaved persons who made a huge difference at Montpelier and their contributions to the estate and American History, cap off your adventures meander through the Dupont Gardens and hike the old-growth forests. You can also pay your respects to the Madisons in the burial ground.
After spending several hours at Montpelier, my mom and I took some time to meander through the nearby historic community of Orange VA, which has local eateries, bed and breakfasts and shops in its downtown.
We then began our roundabout journey home by way of my favorite road, The Blue Ridge Parkway. Sometimes the scenery is worth the extra miles, especially on a lazy Sunday afternoon. We began our Blue Ridge Mountain adventure at the northern entrance to The Parkway by Rockfish Gap (near Waynesboro) and just south of Shenandoah. We visited this area on American Nomad back in October during our Virginia Mountain Adventures. No matter how many times I’ve driven this stretch of road, I’m always stirred by the beauty and serenity of the space, which changes season by season as the sun and shadows create nuances of color from rich deep blues to vibrant greens in the late spring.
We enjoyed driving the winding parkway for several hours, periodically stopping to breathe in the fresh mountain air and take in the scenery at each unique vista showcasing the patchwork of scenery that forms the vibrant Appalachian landscape.
One of my favorite stops in the northern portion of the parkway is along The James River, where you can learn about the importance of the river in trade and commerce from the interior to Richmond and coastal ports, which was a focus during the St. John’s tour in Richmond.
We always stop at our favorite Virginia Parkway getaway The Peaks of Otter. We hoped to grab dinner at the lake lodge, but given Mother’s Day, they sold out of food, so we ended up just enjoying a walk around Abbott Lake (manmade lake under the shadow of the Peaks of Otter range) before driving to Lynchburg for dinner.
Interested in booking your stay at Peaks of Otter? Click here
Before making the final three hour leg of our trip home, we briefly explored downtown Lynchburg, vetting out some points of interest for our next Virginia getaway. Lynchburg has a wonderful art museum and history museum, as well as riverfront access on The James River. It’s not far from Thomas Jefferson’s second home, Poplar Forest as well as Appomattox Courthouse, where Confederate General Lee surrendered in 1865.
I can’t wait to return to Virginia for more historical and scenic adventures.
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Hi, I’m Adele Lassiter, the travel enthusiast behind American Nomad Traveler. This blog where I share my love for history, cool museums, art, and travel tips. When I’m not writing, I’m a singer-songwriter with a passion for Americana music. My new album is available here: adelelassiter.bandcamp.com
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