One of my favorite coastal getaways to return to time and again is Historic Beaufort, North Carolina. I’m grateful that I’ve been able to visit Beaufort every summer since I was a kid with my family, and it holds so many memories…fun coastal adventures I keep like postcards in my heart. Beaufort continues to retain its small-town charm and gracious hospitality that allows you to slow down, enjoy the sea breeze, and let go of the chaos of the world.
As a historian and nature lover, for me, Beaufort is the pearl in the oyster. With its roots dating to 1709, Beaufort is North Carolina’s third-oldest town and retains its rich historic charms alongside being a gateway to the natural wonders of the Southern Outer Banks, like Cape Lookout National Seashore and area beaches.
In Beaufort, you can stroll the streets where pirates like Blackbeard once roamed to the echoes of the American Revolution, when the town of Beaufort played host to North Carolina’s last Revolutionary battle in April 1782. Beaufort’s charming waterfront is lined with centuries-old houses, cool local shops, and a plethora of mouthwatering restaurants serving up fresh-caught seafood and cuisine to satisfy any palate. Nature lovers and coastal wanderers can “seas” the day, watching the ships roll in from the waterfront on Taylor’s Creek, taking day trips to pristine barrier islands where wild horses roam (with Cape Lookout standing as a beacon of the Southern Outer Banks), and visiting nature preserves like Rachel Carson and other area natural wonders.
My perfect day in Beaufort:
- Strolling the historic city streets, pausing to admire the gorgeous mix of architecture, from Colonial-era witness houses present during the Battle of Beaufort in 1782 to Federal-style homes and the Victorian and Queen Anne houses that line the streets. Beaufort has over 150 homes with historic markers detailing what year the home was built and who originally lived there. The Beaufort Historic Site is my favorite stop to tour several of Beaufort’s historic homes and learn about the city’s history.
- As you stroll Beaufort’s historic streets, I invite you to pause for a moment in front of the historic homes, as well as the centuries-old live oaks that can be found throughout town… these are “witnesses” to the past, while still anchored in the here and now. Think of how a house witnessed Blackbeard’s reign on the coast before his downfall at Ocracoke Island (a ferry ride away via Cedar Island), or how the Gibble House was part of the Revolutionary War Battle of Beaufort in April 1782, or places like Clawson’s Restaurant that was a popular grocery store in the early 1900s. As a storyteller, it gets my mind spinning—how cool it is to stand where so much history occurred, from pirates and battles to mundane but important activities in the life of Beaufort, from fishing to shopping…
- Visiting the North Carolina Maritime Museum, which shares the story of North Carolina’s maritime history… I never tire of seeing the recovered artifacts from Blackbeard’s ship, the Queen Anne’s Revenge, which sank in 1718 in the Beaufort Inlet near Shackleford Banks.
- Paying my respects to those buried in the Old Burying Ground, from Revolutionary War veterans to famous War of 1812 privateer Otway Burns.
- Shopping at Beaufort’s amazing local stores, including The General Store, Kitty Hawk Kites, Watermark Books, Life is Good, and more.
- Eating fresh seafood and watching the boats from one of the many amazing waterfront restaurants.
- Taking a harbor cruise and hopefully spotting the wild horses on Carrot Island.
Beaufort is your perfect escape for coastal calm—its charming downtown waterfront and historic houses beckon you to break from the chaos of the world and anchor in this treasure of North Carolina’s Crystal Coast.
In this American Nomad Traveler adventure, we’ll travel through Beaufort’s history, explore fun things to do, and I’ll share tips to help plan your Beaufort and Crystal Coast adventure.
Get to Know Beaufort’s History:
The coastal region of Beaufort, Carteret County, and the barrier islands of the Southern Outer Banks was once home to Native American tribes like the Coree Indians of Iroquoian descent. The first known European to visit the region was the Florentine explorer Giovanni da Verrazzano, who was commissioned by French King Francis I. Sir Richard Grenville of Roanoke passed through the vicinity circa 1585 although he was closer to Ocracoke (he was tied to Sir Walter Raleigh and the later doomed Lost Colony further up the coast at Roanoke Island (town of Manteo today). The earliest permanent settlers came in the late 1600s, using the area as fishing outposts.
The town of Beaufort was settled as Fishtown in 1709. From its beginnings through the present day, this port community has a long history of fishing and maritime trade. On October 2nd, 1713, the town of Beaufort was laid out on land owned by Robert Turner, a local settler who was instrumental in the founding of the community. It was named Beaufort after Henry Somerset, Duke of Beaufort.
A Tale of Two Beauforts: Beaufort, NC is pronounced “bo-fort,” while Beaufort, SC is pronounced “bew-fort.”
The North Carolina coast is known for its deceptive sandbars and ever-shifting barrier islands that have led to hundreds of shipwrecks over the centuries, giving it the nickname The Graveyard of the Atlantic. Historically, Beaufort was one of the safest and most navigable ports on the Carolina coast, but given its isolation in the 1700s with a lack of roads and shallow, treacherous routes to the interior of North Carolina, it was slower to develop compared to New Bern (where the Trent and Neuse Rivers meet, about an hour’s drive from Beaufort today).
One of the most notorious early residents of Beaufort was Blackbeard. While many merchant ships on the North Carolina coast despised Blackbeard, North Carolina’s Royal Governor Charles Eden was actually welcoming to him, as he’d raid Virginia and South Carolina communities and then bring his “pirate’s booty” into towns like Beaufort and Bath. Tradition holds Blackbeard had fourteen wives and one of them lived in Beaufort. There is a lot of myth mixed with truth in Blackbeard’s Beaufort tales, but most agree he did live for a time at The Hammock House, which dates to circa 1715 and is one of the oldest houses in North Carolina still standing. It is privately owned, but you can drive by to see the exterior (please be respectful).
The Ghost of Blackbeard? Who was Edward Teach?
Blackbeard, was born as Edward Teach in Bristol, England circa 1680, Blackbeard was a towering figure who is now synonymous with the word “pirate” throughout most of the world. Much of his pirating career has deep ties with North Carolina and Beaufort.
Before Edward Teach became ‘Terror of the Seas – Blackbeard,’ he actually served England as a professional privateer in Queen Anne’s War. but after the war ended in 1713, he decided to turn to piracy when he met fellow pirate Benjamin Hornigold in the Caribbean. There in 1717, Hornigold rewarded Blackbeard with a hijacked ship, La Concorde, renamed the Queen Anne’s Revenge. The ship carried a crew of approximately 300 men and forty cannons. He and his men sailed the Caribbean and Atlantic coast wreaking havoc on merchant ship crewmen and passengers, stealing cargo and gaining a reputation as the swarthiest, most notorious pirate gang in history.
The Difference Between a Pirate and a Privateer:
- Pirate: While we romanticize “The Golden Age of Piracy,” pirates at the end of the day were thieves who wreaked terror on port cities and the high seas from the Atlantic Coast to the Caribbean and beyond. By definition, a pirate is any person who uses the sea to commit theft. Pirates could be people who use boats to attack ports or ships, and the term may even apply to those who simply escape by sea. Above all else, a pirate is breaking the law.
- Privateer: While privateers resemble pirates—taking over enemy ships and looting their goods—the difference is that privateers have a formal government license to act, usually during a time of war. Interestingly enough, Blackbeard started off as a privateer during Queen Anne’s War. Capt. Otway Burns was an excellent help to the American Navy during the War of 1812, disrupting the British with his famed ship, The Snap Dragon (which was eventually lost in the war). Burns was acting in defense of the nation while also recouping the costs of his expeditions as a privateer, as the government did not pay him for his service.
Part of Blackbeard’s notoriety as a guardian of the gates of hell came from calculated marketing. Blackbeard used his size—one record puts him at nearly 7 feet tall—and snarling looks to intimidate others. Most pirates of this period did not wear beards, but Teach grew a coarse, coal-black beard that covered the whole of his face. He purposefully allowed it to grow to a monstrous length and braided it into little pigtails tied with ribbons of various colors. This alone was enough to strike fear into any sailor, but to top it off, he would then wrap slow-burning lighted coils into his long black hair that would burn at the rate of a foot an hour, the curling wisps of smoke creating literal smoke and mirrors of fear. His now-iconic flag for the Queen Anne’s Revenge, which you can now see flying throughout Beaufort, depicted a heart dripping blood and a skeleton holding an hourglass and spear. It was also designed to intimidate, he was warning that his crew was ruthless and held your life like the sands in an hourglass, in their hands.
The Pirate Governor – Charles Eden
North Carolina Colonial Governor Charles Eden is one of the most colorful characters from the state’s Colonial era. While as a governor of a Royal Colony he should have been keeping law and order, Eden also figured if you can’t beat them join them… Eden recognized that Virginia and South Carolina were bearing the brunt of Blackbeard’s attacks, so why not work with him? Piracy became rampant in North Carolina after Blackbeard bribed Governor Eden to ignore his criminal activities. With commercial vessels using Ocracoke Inlet to access inland ports, Blackbeard and other pirates found the coastal waterway an ideal target. While Eden profited from this alliance, you still had small merchant vessels in North Carolina at the mercy of pirates like Blackbeard.
In June 1718, Eden offered Blackbeard a formal pardon. For a time, Blackbeard settled in North Carolina’s oldest port city, Bath (founded 1705), purchased a home, and married his fourteenth wife (in addition to the one in Beaufort). Fun fact: According to NCpedia, Gov. Eden officiated one of Blackbeard’s weddings to a teenage girl in Bath. Talk about piratical corruption in government! During his short stay as a “Gentleman” of Bath, Blackbeard lived the high life as a ‘respectable citizen,’ but his propensity for piracy had him itching to return to his treasure stealing swarthy ways.
Finally after enduring Blackbeard’s terrorism for eighteen months, North Carolina residents and merchant sailors pleaded with Virginia’s colonial governor, Alexander Spotswood, for help. Acting in secrecy, Spotswood arranged an ambush of Blackbeard, offering a bonus for his death.
Blackbeard met his demise on November 22nd, 1718 at Ocracoke Inlet. Governor Spotswood ordered the British Royal Navy under Lt. Robert Maynard to hunt down Blackbeard and end his reign of pirate terror once and for all. During the showdown, Blackbeard suffered five gunshot wounds and over ten sword wounds before he was finally killed. He was decapitated, and his head was hung from the bowsprit of Maynard’s ship as proof of the pirate’s death.
- When the ship arrived back in Hampton Virginia it was hung from a pole at Blackbeard’s Point and remained there many years as a warning to others who dared think about thievery and piracy.
Today, you can follow the Blackbeard Pirate Trail from Bath to Beaufort to Ocracoke. What makes Beaufort unique is that you can actually see artifacts from the Queen Anne’s Revenge and walk past the home where he lived. It helps bring the past to life and gets me excited to learn more about North Carolina history.
Today, you can reach Ocracoke Island from Carteret County at Cedar Island. My mom and I drove up to the Cedar Island Ferry to take in the beauty of Cedar Island. The ferry takes about 2.5 hours from Cedar Island to Ocracoke (you can also catch a ferry to Ocracoke from Swan Quarter in Hyde County and from Hatteras Island). Next to the Cedar Island Ferry entrance, there is a marker denoting Ocracoke Inlet and Blackbeard’s death. As the wind howled at the edge of the Pamlico Sound where the ferry departs, I could almost imagine the sound of gunpowder and Blackbeard’s legacy centuries ago.
- For more information about planning your visit from Cedar Island to Ocracoke (You can spend the night in the Beaufort area the night before and then catch the ferry)
- NC Ferry Website (drop down for Cedar Island and Ocracoke for up to date times)
In Beaufort today, pirates still roam, but these are the friendly sort that “argh” and take you on pirate-themed history cruises or serve you a glass of rum.
- Beaufort Pirates Revenge is a fun pirate themed cruise that will ‘shiver your timbers’
In 1996, a dive crew rediscovered Blackbeard’s flagship, the Queen Anne’s Revenge. This ship ran aground in the Beaufort Inlet (then called Old Topsail Inlet) on June 10th, 1718. Blackbeard had captured the Queen Anne’s Revenge on November 28, 1717 near the Caribbean Island of Martinique. It was originally La Concorde, serving as a privateer ship in 1710–11 during the War of the Spanish Succession (1701–14) and later, tragically, as a slave ship.
At the NC Maritime Museum in downtown Beaufort, you can view many of the artifacts recovered from the ship, including cannonballs. (Keep scrolling as we’ll deep-dive into the treasure of the Queen Anne’s Revenge during our visit to the NC Maritime Museum!)
With Blackbeard’s reign at an end, Beaufort transitioned from a pirate port to the seat of the Carteret County District, which was established by the North Carolina Legislature in 1722. As the district seat, a courthouse was built in Carteret County, leading to more growth in the port city. Beaufort remains the county seat of Carteret County to this day.
Fun fact: My direct ancestor, Colonel William Rhett of Charleston, South Carolina, nearly captured Blackbeard earlier in the fall of 1718, but ended up capturing Stede Bonnet near present-day Southport, NC on the Cape Fear River (Sept. 27th, 1718). Stede Bonnet was called the “Gentleman Pirate” because he was a Barbadian planter of wealth who actually purchased his own ship for piracy, named the Revenge (not Queen Anne’s Revenge). Blackbeard is said to have manipulated Bonnet to take control of his ship while holding Bonnet prisoner aboard the Queen Anne’s Revenge. After being captured and brought to Charleston, Bonnet blamed Blackbeard for his troubles.
I love learning about this “treasure trove” of pirate history in Beaufort and the surrounding region!
Spanish Attacks on the Carolina Coast:
In the 1740s, the North Carolina Coast faced a new threat from Spanish Privateers who over a series of years assaulted the North Carolina Coast during a period of disputes between England and Spain that started with the War of Jenkins Ear (1739-41). On August 26, 1747, Spanish Privateers attacked and plundered Beaufort. Can you imagine the terror of locals as Spaniards rushed into the small port city. At first the locals fled after the three-day siege; the people of Beaufort mounted a fight to drive the Spaniards out.
Crossroads of History: The final Spanish attack in North Carolina occurred from September 3-6th, 1748 at Brunswick Town (where my ancestors lived and witnessed this attack!). At first the Spanish took the town but the citizens of Brunswick rallied and ended up sinking one of the Spanish vessels, the Fortuna, which caught fire and blew up. All of its officers were killed and a few sailors taken prisoner. You can see a painting of Ecce Homo (Jesus Christ depiction) by famed Spanish painter Francisco Pacheco, which was rescued from the wreckage by citizens of Brunswick at St. James Church in Wilmington today. You can visit Historic Brunswick Town State Historic Site, which is in Brunswick County in between Wilmington and Southport NC.
Revolutionary Beaufort:
During the Revolutionary War, Beaufort helped support the Patriot cause in a variety of ways, including serving as a port for supply ships coming in from Europe and West Indies, and those goods were transported to militia and also the Continental Army. Its location near the ocean made it an ideal place for manufacturing one of the most important necessities for the army, salt, which was used to preserve food. During the war, Beaufort was home to a Salt Works
While most think about the Revolutionary War ending on October 19th, 1781 with the British army surrender at Yorktown VA, the Revolutionary War didn’t formally end until April 1783 with the signing of the Treaty of Paris.
In April 1782, the town of Beaufort was attacked by British forces looking to raid the town of much needed supplies, the standoff took place between April 4th-17th. At first the British were able to enter the Beaufort Inlet aided by local whalers who had been deceived by the British forces that they were simply New Englanders needing supplies. However soon this proved to be a ‘trojan horse,’ where locals were taken hostage and shots and skirmishes ensued for nearly ten days. Eventually the British, running low on water and spooked after locals tried to send a burning raft towards their ship in the Inlet (the wind actually pushed it back to Beaufort), the British finally left on April 17th, 1782. The British originally had planned other raids in the region, but after Beaufort gave up and returned to Charleston.
This is considered to be the last battle of the American Revolutionary War in North Carolina.
I’ll be doing a Revolutionary Beaufort feature soon…so much overlooked Revolutionary War History in this area.
Beaufort Civil War History:
Beaufort and the Crystal Coast played a role in the Civil War from nearby Fort Macon to the Union occupation of Beaufort in 1862. While Wilmington and Fort Fisher at the southern tip of the North Carolina coast remained in Confederate hands until 1865 (January 1865 it fell to the Union), Beaufort remained in Union control the remainder of the war. There are both Union and Confederate soldiers buried in Beaufort’s Old Burying Ground.
Visit Fort Macon: I’ll be doing a feature on Fort Macon soon, it’s a must visit spot during your Beaufort and Crystal Coast adventures. It was originally constructed as a five-sided masonry fortification between 1826 and 1834 (present day Atlantic Beach)…It is an engineering feat using 2.3 million bricks with 4.5 foot walls…unfortunately the salt air and elements wore it down over the years and by the Civil War it needed repairs. It is named for former NC Congressman Nathaniel Macon. The Confederates seized the fort in 1861 without any fanfare, but the Union won it back after an eleven hour bombardment in April 1862. It was later used during the Spanish American War and WWII!
In addition to the Historic Fort, which is also North Carolina’s second oldest State Park, there is a wonderful public beach nearby. If you stay in Beaufort, I recommend driving to Fort Macon for your day of surf and sand. Plan your visit here
Fun fact: Fort Macon is North Carolina’s second oldest state park and one of its most visited with 1.3 million visitors a year!
German U-Boats:
Beaufort’s accessible port has made it an important part of every war throughout the nation’s history including WWI and WWII when German U-Boats patrolled the coast. While locals have known about the U-Boats for years, during the middle of the war it wasn’t publicized as to avoid panic on the homefront. One U-Boat was sunk in Beaufort Inlet.
The U-352 sank on May 9th, 1942 and is in Beaufort Inlet near Morehead City. During our boat tour with Crystal Coast Lady our guide pointed out where the U-Boat and Queen Anne’s Revenge are located. He mentioned that today advanced divers use the U-Boat site for training. It has become an artificial reef and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. According to my research, fifteen members of the crew were lost and the thirty-three that survived became POWs in America.
The N.C. The Maritime Museum has fantastic exhibits on Beaufort’s WWI and WWII history. You can learn about the U-Boat wreck at the North Carolina Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores (about fifteen minute drive from Beaufort).
Stay tuned in the coming weeks as I’m researching a WWII feature on Beaufort!
- Did you know that Wilmington NC is America’s First WWII Heritage City – check out my feature on WWII Wilmington NC here
Today Beaufort is a town rooted in history, while remaining a vibrant community anchored in fishing, port, Coast Guard and ties with regional bases like Camp Lejeune at Jacksonville and Cherry Point.
The heart of the local economy is tourism. What sets Beaufort apart is that while it has grown as developers build new properties it all is done in a way that retains the character of the Old Town. I’ve been visiting Beaufort most summers since I was a kid and the minute I return it feels like nothing has changed except the draw of the tides. Sure businesses come and go, but the character and intrinsic charm and hospitality and laid back coastal vibe that makes Beaufort, Beaufort remains. The minute I arrive and walk by old haunts like The Dock House on Taylor Creek and Clawson’s or the General Store and other buildings that still stand across decades, hurricanes and tourists – I feel my memories come back alive, all while creating new memories in my Beaufort story. Once you visit Beaufort and Carteret County once you’ll long to return time and again.
Fun Things to Do in Beaufort: Tips for Planning your Seaside Adventure
Beaufort offers something for every traveler whether you want to time travel through its dramatic history or sip a cocktail (or mocktail) from the waterfront as the ships go in and out of the harbor, to a day exploring the natural beauty of the area islands and coastal landscapes, to shopping the eclectic mix of Beaufort based businesses to restaurant hopping and taste testing your way through Beaufort’s amazing restaurant scene.
The best part? You can CHART your own adventure. My mom and I always mix our passion for history with exploring the natural beauty with a boat ride to the area barrier islands, to shopping at local souvenir and dress spots to enjoying amazing fresh caught seafood…We have our familiar haunts, but always discover a new piece of history or site to explore.
In planning our your visit I recommend making a list of your top five things to do and blocking off time for those that need reservations first, like a ferry ride out to Cape Lookout or Harbor Cruise, while also giving yourself plenty of time to just breath in the salt air and let the ‘tides of Beaufort’ take you where you will. I love exploring the historic streets on foot with no timeline, just pausing at shops and grabbing ice cream without feeling time pressure. You’re on coastal time – plan accordingly, but allow yourself to just enjoy the moment too.
Checking-Inn to Beaufort
When you visit the Beaufort area you have several options for where to stay. Growing up I was fortunate that my grandparents had a place near Fort Macon at nearby Atlantic Beach at Southwinds (you can find rentals through local property rental companies). These days we usually rent a condo at A Place at the Beach, which is a laid back condo setting with beach access and a great outdoor pool. This is perfect if you plan to stay for a few nights to a week at the beach. We recently stayed at the Double Tree at Atlantic Beach, which has a great restaurant (Molly’s) right next to the ocean, as well as its own pier!
I also love to stay right in Beaufort, especially in the fall, winter and spring when you can enjoy the off season charm, easily able to walk to local restaurants, catch the ferry or a boat ride from the harbor. You can still easily reach Atlantic Beach and oceanside public beach access at Fort Macon, or drive over to historic Morehead City or even explore Harker’s Island and Cedar Island…Pine Knoll Shores Aquarium is an easy drive as well.
Beaufort has a variety of in town locations, each with their own character.
Want to write yourself into Beaufort’s history and small town charm, I recommend “checking-inn” to one of the local inns/bed and breakfasts.
- Inlet Inn: A favorite that I’ve enjoying staying at over the years. Located right on Front Street with great views of the waterfront. Highly recommend
- Langdon House: This quaint inn has witnessed over 260 years of Beaufort History. Built in 1764, it is a ‘Witness’ House to the Colonial era to the American Revolution and beyond. Today it is your cozy getaway to explore Beaufort.
- Ann Street Inn and Garden: This inn dates to 1832 and was built by renowned Beaufort builder James Davis, who also worked on Fort Macon. A charming historic place to stay with gracious hospitality.
- Pecan Street Inn: Charming inn with history and character, only one block from Beaufort’s waterfront.
- Angels Share Inn: steps from restaurants and the waterfront…
Several hotels I’ve scoped out but haven’t checked into yet, but come highly recommended from locals and friends are:
- Beaufort Hotel: Overlooking the serene waters of Taylor Creek, I’ve had several friends stay here over the past two years. They recommend calling for the best rates and have gone right after Labor Day.
- Compass Inn: Newly opened, this is a Jimmy Buffet Margaritaville Experience hotel that is laid back for Beaufort’s calm waters…Within easy walking distance of downtown restaurants
When I’m planning a trip I’m usually on a budget. I love to visit in the off-season when the weather is still warm enough to enjoy walking around or even get in the water, but not during the peak of July-August. Apps like Booking.com and Hotwire.com can have great deals, but I also recommend reaching out to hotels directly and speaking with the staff. Often they’ll match the best rates and ensure you get the best accommodations for your needs.
Have a recommendation for a Beaufort inn/hotel/condo – put it in the comments. Love to hear your suggestions.
Don’t Miss the Boat – Beaufort is your Gateway to the Southern Outer Banks and Cape Lookout
One of my favorite pastimes in Beaufort is hopping aboard one of the many local boat tours that leave from the waterfront. Each one has a slightly different vibe depending on what “floats your boat.”
Fun Facts About Cape Lookout National Seashore and Cape Lookout Lighthouse
A true treasure of the Crystal Coast, the Cape Lookout National Seashore was established in 1966 and is considered one of the most remote of the nation’s ten national seashores, as well as one of the least visited. This is a true pristine wilderness—one of the few remaining unaltered barrier island systems in the world. The entire Cape Lookout National Seashore encompasses 28,000 acres of land and water, stretching fifty-five miles along the NC coast from Ocracoke Inlet to the Beaufort Inlet.
The Town of Beaufort is a perfect jumping-off point for sailing into Cape Lookout National Seashore adventures. You can take day trips to the Shackleford Banks, Cape Lookout, Core Banks, and more. One place on my bucket list is a visit to the deserted village of Portsmouth, which was the first town formally established in the Outer Banks (1753), although fishermen and residents lived along the barrier islands for years prior. Official Cape Lookout National Seashore link
- Cape Lookout Lighthouse and Beach: One of my favorite lighthouses, its diamond-shaped pattern and guardian light have been guiding sailors through treacherous waters since Nov. 1st, 1859 (the previous lighthouse was built in 1812 and later replaced by the current brick structure). When it is open, you can climb 207 steps to the top of the 163-foot lighthouse. It’s a stunning view as you first spot it from the ferry, rising above the high sand dunes and overlooking the sparkling emerald waters below. Official NPS Website
- Shackleford Banks: Where the wild horses run with the wind and dwell amid the marsh grass—a shell lover’s dream. The Shackleford Banks stretch eight miles across from west to east, with the south side of the island facing the Atlantic Ocean and the north side facing Core Sound. Shackleford Banks is only accessible by boat. Visitors have the option to utilize a passenger ferry from the Harkers Island Visitor Center or from Beaufort, NC. Beach driving is not allowed on the island.
One of our favorite traditions on Shackleford is to go shelling. We usually bring a mesh shell bag and a shell collection “gizmo” that are found in local stores in Beaufort and along the coast. Visitors are allowed to collect up to a 5-gallon bucket full of shells per day while on the island. Always check for live organisms when collecting shells. Do not collect marine mammal bones or archaeological artifacts. If you see something, you can report it to the National Park Service.
Day Trip to Cape Lookout
If you have an entire day, I definitely recommend making the pilgrimage to Cape Lookout and the Cape Lookout Lighthouse. You can take the Island Express ferry from Harkers Island (the most direct route) or from Beaufort. I recommend leaving early in the day and bringing a cooler, snacks, beach towels, and more sunscreen than you think you could ever need, because the sun is deceptively strong while you are on the barrier island. Depending on the time of year, you can also take a truck/buggy tour of Cape Lookout, which is a fun way to learn about the history and explore its natural landscape. One of my favorite things to do is simply sit near the lighthouse on the sandy beach and watch the waves roll in and out. The water is often a deep turquoise, feeling almost like the Caribbean at times. Shell hunting is also popular on Hatteras and the nearby Shackleford Banks.
- Book your Island Ferry Express Ride here
Another way to visit Cape Lookout and the Shackleford Banks is aboard the Cape Lookout Cruises Sailboat. I enjoyed this day trip in 2021, but my only regret was that we ran out of time on Cape Lookout as we spent more time shelling on Shackleford. I still loved the rhythm of the sailboat in the water and feeling the saltwater breeze touch my skin under the summer sun.
Shackleford Banks is home to the beautiful wild mustangs, also called “banker ponies,” that descend from Spanish mustangs that swam ashore centuries ago. Today, there are around 100 horses on Shackleford Banks (monitored and managed by the NPS). These are wild horses; you should stay at least fifty feet away from them and never feed them. If you are taking the ferry to Cape Lookout, chances are you will see them from the boat as you edge the shores of Shackleford Banks, a perfect (and safe) photo opportunity.
Origin of the Shackleford “Banker Ponies”
While there is no conclusive proof as to when the wild Spanish mustangs of Shackleford first took up residence on the barrier islands, it is believed that the “Banker Ponies” are descendants of survivors from Spanish shipwrecks in the 1500s. At least eight shipwrecks of Spanish origin known to be transporting Spanish mustangs and other livestock crashed in the region from 1528–1564. The horses were able to swim ashore and, as a resilient breed, have survived through the centuries. They are smaller in size due to years of isolation, but DNA testing proves they are true Spanish mustangs.
To back up this centuries-old legacy, several reports from the 1600s and 1700s by captains sailing the region noted seeing horses along the shoreline.
Carrot Island Adventure
Several other fun cruises you can take from Beaufort include a visit to Carrot Island and the Rachel Carson Reserve. Carrot Island is right across from the Beaufort Waterfront on Taylor Creek and is home to quarter horses that were originally placed on the island in 1947 by Dr. Luther Fulcher, a Beaufort local, because he couldn’t see the ones on Shackleford from his house on Front Street. After he passed away, they remained on the island, and today there are about thirty wild horses on Carrot Island. These are a different breed than the mustangs on Shackleford, but they are similar in that they feed on marsh grass and dig underground for fresh water.
Please do not attempt to feed the horses! An apple fed to a horse several years ago tragically led to its death. They are wild and wonderful—beautiful to behold, but keep your distance and respect their home. We are but guests.
While on Carrot Island, you can enjoy a 1.1-mile loop trail that ambles through captivating natural scenery like mudflats, uplands, and salt marshes home to over 200 species of birds, forty species of invertebrates, and 52 species of fish. On our boat tour, we saw a Great Egret and a White Ibis. I loved pausing and reflecting on God’s beautiful creation.
Here are my recommended boat tours to Carrot Island:
My mom and I also enjoy the Crystal Coast Lady, which has a yacht feel complete with air conditioning and a restroom onboard. Our tour took us through Beaufort Inlet up to the Fort Macon area. You’ll often spot the wild horses on Carrot Island, as well as dolphins as you travel through the inlet.
Pro Tip: The horses on Carrot Island and dolphin sightings are typically much more active during late afternoon and sunset cruises!
Beaufort Historical Sites:
Beaufort is a living history museum, each building and inch of ground filled with echoes of the town’s over 300 years of history. As you meander through historic downtown, pause and look at the historical markers on buildings and homes that give you a window into the building’s past. There are over 150 historic building markers in Beaufort from the earliest Colonial era homes, to stunningly intricate Victorian architecture and beyond…each marker lists the original owner and year the house was built.
I like to search for ‘Witness Houses’ that would have been around for the American Revolutionary War or Civil War. For a moment you feel the crossroads of the past intersect with the present.
I recommend starting your time traveling Beaufort Adventure at the Beaufort Historic Site. Nestled right in the heart of downtown Beaufort on Historic Turner Street, the Beaufort Historic site is spread over two acres depicting the bygone eras of Beaufort. This living history museum includes a number of preserved historic structures depicting life in the 18th-19th century in Beaufort. Highlights include:
- 1796 Carteret County Courthouse: the oldest wood-framed English Circuit courthouse left intact in North Carolina.
- 1829 Carteret County Jail: This historic jail remained in active use until 1954!
- Leffers Cottage (circa 1778 – a Witness House to Revolutionary Beaufort): A rustic, traditional coastal cottage, once home to Samuel Leffers.
- Josiah Bell House (c. 1825): This home has so many stories to tell from the Antebellum period in the coastal port of Beaufort to when it was home to Confederate agent Josiah Fisher Bell during the Civil War.
- John C. Manson House (c. 1825): A beautifully appointed Federal-style home that has witnessed 200 years of Beaufort’s fascinating history.
- Apothecary Shop and Doctor’s Office (c. 1857): The Doctor is in! Learn about 19th century medicine at this historic doctor’s office and apothecary that preserves original medical equipment, apothecary jars and early pharmaceutical tools.
- The Art of History at Mattie King Davis Art Gallery: House in one of the city’s oldest buildings, the 1732 Rustell House. It’s the oldest art gallery in Carteret County and features artwork by local and regional artists. This is a perfect place to find a wonderful souvenir or gift to commemorate your visit to Beaufort. They have artwork including oils, watercolors, acrylics, jewelry, pottery and more.
North Carolina Maritime Museum at Beaufort:
No visit to Beaufort is complete without a visit to the North Carolina Maritime Museum in the heart of downtown Beaufort. It tells the story of North Carolina’s Maritime history from the natural ecosystem, fishing and the sea, pirates to Patriots, the U.S. Coast Guard, the region’s role in WWI and WWII, legacy of boatbuilding, types of fishing, tourism industry and so much more. It’s not a huge museum but is packed with artifacts and information that brings the history and maritime life past and present alive for all ages.
Pirate Hunters will truly discover treasure here as the majority of recovered artifacts from Blackbeard’s Queen Anne’s Revenge are housed in the museum.
Recently the NC Maritime Museum just launched a new Road to Revolution permanent exhibit telling the story of Beaufort and Coastal Carolina’s role in the Revolutionary War from saltworks to trading ports to supply goods to Gen. Washington at Valley Forge to North Carolina’s last battle in the war, the Battle of Beaufort (April 1782).
One of my favorite exhibits is learning about Echo, the Sperm Whale skeleton on display that was recovered after the whale beached.
Old Burying Ground:
One of North Carolina’s oldest cemeteries you’ll find the graves of early settlers, Revolutionary War Soldiers, War of 1812 veterans, Civil War veterans and other unique and notable people from Beaufort’s past. The Beaufort Historic Site periodically hosts tours of the Old Burying Ground. You can also grab a brochure guide to the burial ground as you enter the cemetery.
Several notable graves include:
Rum Keg Girl: When you visit the Old Burying Ground it’s hard to miss the pile of dolls and toys that lie atop one grave. While myth and legend and reality blur, tradition holds that this is the grave of a young girl who died while at sea and to ensure she could be buried close to her family in Beaufort, the young girl’s lifeless body was placed in a rum barrel for preservation until she could be buried at home in Beaufort. Tradition holds the family’s name was ‘Sloo,’ although I haven’t been able to verify the name and am still researching. I always say a Divine Mercy Prayer when I visit a burial ground for the dead and their loved ones today.
The British Soldier:
In researching the Battle of Beaufort (April 1782) I learned even with all the shooting and bombarding of cannon fire, only one man died, a British Naval Officer. His dying request was that he be buried in the Beaufort Cemetery in his full uniform standing and facing England as if perpetual salute to King George III. You can see a marker where the unknown soldier is buried.
Captain Otway Burns, hero of War of 1812 and Statesman
When you visit the Old Burying Ground one of the most unique tombs is that of a famous North Carolina hero of the War of 1812 who served as a privateer for the United States powered by his famous ship, ‘The Snap Dragon.’ Burns’ grave has a canon on it, so you can’t miss it.
Burns was born and raised in Swansboro (about an hour from Beaufort and another charming historic coastal town), and later moved to Beaufort.
He commanded the famous topsail schooner Snap Dragon, capturing numerous British vessels. In 1814, he built his home on Front Street in Beaufort and operated a local shipyard that constructed the Prometheus, the state’s first steam-powered vessel. Fun fact: Burns served as a representative in the NC Legislature, where he stood up for the creation of Yancey County near Asheville, and the county seat of Burnsville (a beautiful mountain town, and gateway to Mt. Mitchell) is named after him. Burnsville NC in the mountains and Swansboro (about forty-five minutes from Beaufort) both have statues honoring Capt. Burns and his legacy.
Nearby Places for History and Nature:
Beaufort – Destination for Food Lovers:
When it comes to fresh seafood and delicious eats Beaufort serves up the best food every time. I have tried most of the restaurants in town over the years, but there are always new eateries popping up or daily specials at my old haunts. Here are a few restaurants I love returning to time and again. Feel free to add your favorite places to eat in the comments.
Destination Coffee…but first coffee (and breakfast)
Beaufort has several great local coffee shops and breakfast joints.
- CRU has life’s essentials covered: Coffee, Gelato, Wine, Chocolate and Food. Seriously! I love their delicious roasts and lattes. They make their Beaufort Chocolate Company bars upstairs above the coffee shop and wine bar. They have good eats too including pizza.
- Historic Grounds Coffee: I recently discovered this coffee gem and it is an instant favorite. Steeped in history and brewed in Beaufort, their carefully curated roasts will satisfy any coffee fan. They have lattes of espresso and specialty drinks.
- Dancing Barista Cafe
- Atlantic Beach Coffee – so it’s a fifteen minute drive, but definitely one of my favorite #destination coffee haunts
If I roasted my own coffee I’d have ‘Blackbeard’s Dark Roast Revenge.’ What would your Beaufort themed brew be?
A few of my favorite restaurants in Beaufort:
- Queen Anne’s Revenge: Love their view of Taylor Creek and mix of delicious seafood, pizza (including GF options), drinks for any pirate…
- The Dock House: Perfect place amazing food and wonderful views of the marina. During our recent visit at the Dock House we ordered Shrimp and Mahi
- Clawson’s: Grateful they have some gluten free options now (I have Celiac Disease); Fresh seafood, BBQ, salads delicious drinks…Clawson’s is housed in a historic grocery store building and packed with coastal character
- Black Sheep: Known for their wood fired pizza
- Aqua
- Beaufort Grocery Company: A must stop in Beaufort
- Rhumbar
- Blue Moon Bistro
- Finz
- Fishtowne
- Moonrakers – Their third level rooftop bar is a perfect spot to take in the sunset with a mocktail or cocktail.
For a complete restaurant guide: https://beaufortrestaurantguide.com/
Desserts:
- Beaufort Creamery Amazing homemade ice cream!
- The General Store – great souvenirs and yummy ice cream
Near Harkers Island in the Smyrna area check out Smyrna Scoops and Sweets – so good! (about twenty minutes from downtown Beaufort)
Shopping:
What I love about Beaufort is that the majority of its stores are locally owned or regional chains tied to the North Carolina coast. So each gift shop has its own personality for unique shoppers. I love to stroll the Front Street window, stopping by area shops and purchasing a few souvenirs or cool clothing items perfect for a day at the beach. One of the newest additions to Beaufort that I enjoyed checking out this trip was Watermark Books Beaufort’s first independent bookstore. As a booklover I also purchased history books at both the NC Maritime Museum and Beaufort Historic Site gift shop.
No matter the season, Beaufort North Carolina is calling you to pause, relax and chart your course for a Crystal Coast adventure.
Here are a few resources to help plan your trip. I’m happy to answer any questions as well. It’s a place I return to again and again.
In the coming weeks I’ll share more tales from Beaufort and the Crystal Coasts, including deep dives into Revolutionary Beaufort, as well as features on the Atlantic Beach area (including Fort Macon).
Thanks for taking time to set sail on the Beaufort adventure!
About American Nomad Traveler:
Hi, I’m Adele Lassiter aka ‘The American Nomad Traveler…’ I started this blog to share my passion for history, travel, coffee, good eats, art, music, National Parks, scenic backroads, cool small towns and everything in between.
In addition to my main website here at americannomadtraveler.com, I also have a Substack…
For daily history and travel follow along on my socials:
I’ve worked on features about heritage travel, fun destinations and America 250 with Wilmington CVB, Wilkes County, Heart of Carolina (Randolph County), Abingdon VA, Museum of the Waxhaws and more.
Interested in collaborating on a feature, or have an idea for a story, reach out to me at: americannomadtraveler@gmail.com
Leave a Reply