In April, I had the chance to embark on a fun road trip from my home base of Raleigh, North Carolina to Music City in Nashville Tennessee. The purpose of this week-long trip primarily to record several singles including the upbeat Americana romp ‘HeartBreak City,” vintage country ballad “Good Man” dedicated to those wolves in sheep’s clothing, and a fun love song ‘How Do You Feel.’
I lived in Nashville for five years while attending Belmont University to study Music Business and it continues to be a favorite haunt of mine. Nashville’s juxtaposition of music, history and regional natural scenery and great eats makes it the perfect destination for any traveler.
While many assume that a visit to Nashville means you have to be a ‘country music’ fan, actually it’s called Music City because all musical genres are written, performed and produced here. On any given night you can visit a county honkytonk or discover a punk rock or classical performance. If you love music and the arts YOU MUST VISIT Nashville.
Getting to Nashville: While you can take a direct flight from Raleigh to Nashville to save time, as I’m currently in the middle of a lay-off from my corporate job, I thought it would be fun to enjoy the road trip. I love to drive with my music on and stop at interesting scenic and historic spots along the way. The road from Raleigh to Nashville is filled with tons of beautiful and historic points of interests that make the trip really enjoyable.
My route: While I usually take I-40 straight from Raleigh to Nashville, due to the devastation of Hurricane Helene in the NC Mountains in September 2024, I-40 just reopened at the TN line as a one lane road. I decided to use this opportunity to go off the beaten path and take a slightly different route.
On the way to Nashville I detoured into Virginia via I-77 to charming Wytheville, VA onto Bristol VA/TN. I’ve wanted to visit Bristol since they are home to The Birthplace of Country Music Museum.
On the way back, I did a slight detour, going to the Johnson City TN area to catch the road from Johnson City down to Asheville NC.
In the coming weeks I’ll be deep diving into each of the stops along my NC-TN road trip and tips for your own adventures along the route.
My Itinerary:
Monday April 21st: It was a gorgeous spring day as I left Raleigh, heading west, with clear blue skies and seventy degree temps with a slight breeze; a perfect backdrop for my adventure. I drove on I-40 West until exiting near Winston-Salem/Kernersville to detour north toward Mt. Airy and the NC/VA line. The area from Winston Salem to Mt. Airy is one of the prettiest drives in NC, as you leave the Piedmont and come into the ancient Sauratown Mountains and the foothills of Blue Ridge Mountains. While I didn’t have time to stop today, this route is not far from several amazing MUST-See in NC stops:
- Horne Historic Farm: Once the Hauser family farm, Horne Creek enables visitors to experience farm life in North Carolina’s northwestern Piedmont circa 1900.
- Hanging Rock State Park – gorgeous state park with mountain views, a lake and waterfalls.
- Pilot Mountain State Park – wonderful hiking and fascinating geology.
If you have time, I recommend a visit to Mt. Airy, the hometown of Andy Griffith and a real-life Mayberry. Check out our blog on Mt. Airy from a few years ago.
At Mt. Airy, I merged onto I-77, a beautiful interstate that runs from SC to Ohio. In NC and Virginia, I-77 traverses the rolling farmland cities of The Piedmont and Blue Ridge Front. Don’t be afraid to exit at the small towns and take a moment to search for a local coffee shop or historical marker. This area is rich in culture and history.
I felt like heaven on earth as the road meandered across the VA line, with views of NC’s Pilot Mountains in the distance. There are several scenic overlooks in this stretch of highway allowing you to grab great photos of the NC/VA mountains and valleys below.
While I love traveling everywhere from cities to the ocean and beyond, my heart is truly at peace in the mountains. I live by the John Muir quote: ‘The Mountains are Calling and I must GO.’ Fortunately living in Raleigh NC, we have ready access to the mountains and the ocean, both only a few hours from Raleigh.
Three hours into my drive, I stopped at one of my favorite Virginia mountain towns – Wytheville. This charming centuries old town is surrounded by The Blue Ridge Mountains and runs deep with history and culture. Downtown Wytheville is lined with local shops from hardware to mountain outdoor gear, fun clothing stores and several amazing restaurants. My favorite spot in Wytheville is The Grind Coffee Shop. I will drive out of my way to stop at The Grind for a cup of java. Their coffee is roasted regionally in Christiansburg VA (about an hour away). Their menu features a variety of crafted coffee drinks, beverages, and delicious smoothies. On this trip I tried their Toffee Coffee special latte. I normally don’t love sweet coffee concoctions – but this was to die for. I also indulged in the Pina Colada smoothie, which served as my lunch.
We’ll learn more about Wytheville in an upcoming blog. It’s a place I love to return to time and again.
At Wytheville, I merged onto I-81, which traverses gorgeous stretches of Southwest VA. If you have time, I recommend a stop in Marion VA, where we visited back in 2019, staying at The Historic Francis Marion Hotel. Marion is home to the picturesque Hungry Mother State Park. If you have even half an hour, you can stop and enjoy lake views before hitting the road again.
I decided to stop in Abington, another favorite haunt of mine in Southwestern Virginia. Abington is home to one of the oldest stock theatres in the nation – The Barter Theatre, where actors like Gregory Peck and Patricia Neal got their start. Unfortunately they were closed on a Monday night, but I hope to catch a show there next time around. Get your tickets to The Barter Theatre here.
With a few hours of daylight left, I decided to go on a walk on a portion of The Virginia Creeper Trail. What a treat! The Virginia Creeper Trail is a 35-mile multi-purpose rail trail. Located in southwestern Virginia, the trail runs from Abingdon to Whitetop, Virginia, near Mount Rogers National Recreation Area and the North Carolina state line.
Sadly Hurricane Helene did a top of damage to The Virginia Creeper Trail, but Thank God this section in Abington is still open. Plan your own Virginia Creeper Adventure here.
After some fun in Abington, I continued on to Bristol. Before checking into my hotel, Quality Inn and Suites just outside the city, I headed downtown to check out the heartbeat of Bristol. Bristol is unique in that it is partially in Virginia and TN. The state line literally runs down their downtown thoroughfare – aptly named State Street.Downtown Bristol is vibrant, lined with bars, restaurants and shops. We’ll dig into Best Bristol Travel Tips in a future post. This link will get you started on planning your adventure.
After a quick exploration of downtown Bristol (sadly some of the shops were already closed when I arrived), I grabbed dinner at Logan’s Steakhouse near my hotel and spent time looking at the TN Map and planning the rest of my itinerary.
Tuesday April 22nd:
As a singer-songwriter I have long wanted to make the pilgrimage to Bristol.
While Bristol is known for its motor speedway – its real claim to fame is The Birthplace of Country Music.
Country music, in a sense, has ancient roots, born from the blending of folk traditions, European instruments such as the lute and violin, and African influences like the early banjo and gospel rhythms. It was in the cultural melting pot of Appalachia and the Southeast that these diverse sounds coalesced, laying the groundwork for what would become a distinct genre.
This genre, which continues to evolve, was formally introduced to the world via a now monumental event called ‘The Bristol Sessions.’ With the advent of more advanced recording techniques in the 1920s and also talking film in 1927, record labels and music companies like Victor Talking Company (later RCA) were on the hunt for new talent to tap into this new market demand for music on demand. The original music on demand were records, whereas now we are used to using Spotify or Apple for instant track searches. But prior to records and radio, the way to see and hear music was to go to a concert or play music at home. This was revolutionary.
At first companies like Victor focused on major markets like New York, producer Ralph Peer, who had been introduced to Appalachian music by a Viriginian, Ernest Stoneman. Stoneman went to New York City in September 1924 and cut two songs for Okeh records. The record was shelved, but he returned for another session in NYC in January 1925, where he recorded what would become a smash debut release: “The Sinking of the Titanic.” (Kind of reminds me of later singer-songwriter Gordon Lightfoot and The Wreck of The Edmund Fitzgerald.)
Ralph Peer, inspired by Stoneman’s unique sound, decided to travel south to do a massive recording session in Bristol in an attempt to find additional new Appalachia and Roots talent. He also had other southern stops planned for blues and gospel genres. The Bristol Sessions occurred from July 25-August 5th, resulting in 76 songs recorded with 19 performers.
The Bristol Sessions, dubbed ‘The Big Bang of Country Music,’ Introduced the likes of The Carter Family and Jimmie Rodgers to the world. The music was a hit and Country Music continues to be one of the most popular and diverse genres of music in the world. Country is not a formula but rather a blending of influences and themes that speak to the human experience – from a barn dance to a sorrowful heart ache. Country continues to tell us stories and transport us through music today.
The Birthplace of Country Music Museum is a MUST-STOP for any music fan. The do an excellent job explaining the timeline of the sessions and the impact of Bristol on Country music. You can also see artifacts of original microphones and record players used during that time. They also discuss the evolution of country music from Bristol to today with interactive exhibits and memorabilia from artists like The Carter Family, Johnny Cash and more. Plan your visit here.
I’ll dedicate a post to the museum soon for our Music Detours feature.
Before leaving Bristol, I stopped by Blackbird Bakery and Coffee – a delicious coffee and pastry shop, which was within walking distance of The Birthplace of Country Music Museum. They had several gluten-free options (I have Celiac disease) including a mouthwatering Creme Brule.
One of my favorite things to do on a road trip is to check out local coffee shops. Often the coffee is top notch and you can get the inside scoop of fun things to do in the area from locals.
I left Bristol just before one. I decided to take my time getting to Nashville and exploring some hidden areas of TN I’ve never visited before. Based on the map and brochures I picked up at my hotel, I decided to stop in historic Greeneville TN to visit The President Andrew Johnson NHS.
Greeneville, named after Revolutionary War hero Nathanael Greene, is one of the oldest towns in Tennessee. The streets are steeped in rich history from Native American roots to early settlers and beyond. Greeneville was once the capital of the State of Franklin, a short lived attempt at having an independent state of TN from NC (Which eventually happened, but The State of Franklin failed – we’ll do a post on this interesting history at some point.) It is also the birthplace of Davy Crockett and later became the home of future President Andrew Johnson, who was a tailor and statesman in the area before moving onto national politics.
With a few hours of daylight left, I focused on the Andrew Johnson National Historic Site. Run by the National Park Service, this site blew me away. I knew it would be interesting to visit, but I left wanting to return, because they tell the story of America’s 17th president so vividly and accurately from his humble beginnings to taking a stand against The Confederacy and subsequent triumphs and troubles with his presidency.
The park site spans several blocks and miles of Greeneville. I recommend starting your journey at The Visitor Center. The park ranger was so helpful and knowledgeable. The Visitor Center has a fifteen minute video on the history of Johnson’s life and legacy. You can also see his original tailor shop, and learn about his Presidency in a series of exhibitions.
Official Andrew Johnson National Historic Park Website
Across the street from The Visitor Center you can tour a replica of Johnson’s childhood home. The original is actually in my hometown of Raleigh NC. Johnson was born into a poor family in Raleigh and eventually made his way to Tennessee, finally finding success as a tailor and statesman in the Volunteer State.
You can then tour his original home in Greeneville – which has an interactive timeline of his life, including his brave decision to stand up against The Confederacy and stand by the U.S. Constitution. Johnson continued to serve as a senator for Tennessee in DC even after they seceded. He then became Governor of TN after the Union took over Nashville, before being selected as Lincoln’s Vice President.
A few blocks away you can also visit Andrew Johnson’s second home, which is open for tours by appointment. The Visitor Center will gladly help you book time for a guided tour.
I also recommend driving to Johnson’s burial site, which is located on a hill overlooking the city and surrounding mountains. Johnson insisted on being buried with the Constitution on his tomb, to symbolize his love of nation and our Democratic Republic.
I look forward to detailing my visit to the Andrew Johnson NHS in an upcoming post.
I finally made it to Nashville around nine o’clock, stopping briefly for dinner at one of my favorite Nashville regional chains Demos’ Steakhouse in Lebanon TN.
This trip to Music City, I chose to stay at The Comfort Inn near Music Row. It’s a nice hotel that’s steps away from Music Row offices and Demonbreun Street bars and restaurants.
Wednesday April 23rd: Recording Day!
I was beyond excited to spend the morning recording my vocals at the renowned Beaird Music Group studios in Nashville. I worked with BMG on my first EP, American Nomad and they are one of the best studios in Music City and beyond. Eli Beaird, who produced my music has worked with Willie Nelson, Lori McKenna and Little Big Town.
This time, I chose to have the music recorded in March, so I’d have time to practice and perfect my vocals before recording. I play guitar, but always let the professionals record the music on my albums. I was blessed to have some of Nashville’s best players record my songs.
The process: I had three songs to record. The engineer, Rob, mixed while I recorded each take about four times, which he then did a mini-mix on. The initial mix was then sent to Dave, another master mixer, to be formally mixed. This happened after I left the studio and I received the mixing a few days later.
I’m super excited to release the three songs I recorded.
Good Man is a song inspired by current events, where you have lots of men (and women) who claim to follow Christ and want to love their neighbor but take away their access to programs like food stamps and Medicaid that help the poorest of the poor, while also being bullies and calling people names. I wrote the song from the perspective of someone who is in love with a cult leader and can’t see through the lies.
Honestly the song can speak to anyone who is a toxic relationship and a friend who is trying to help them see the light.
The other two tracks are more upbeat.
Heartbreak City was inspired by a time when I lived in an apartment with a rat and needed to get out of that apartment. I was so fed up I wanted to get in the car and just drive. The line ‘Heartbreak City’ has stayed in my head for years and I finally wrote the rest of the song after getting laid off. I wasn’t going to let bad things prevent me from finding a new road and making a fresh start.
How Do You Feel is about a lovelorn soul who finally finds the one.
If you are interested in following my music:
Purchase on Bandcamp – supports my music journey and pays my bills 🙂
After finishing up my recording, I decided to spend the rest of the afternoon playing Nashville tourist…
I spent a few hours at The Tennessee State History Museum (an upcoming post will detail the ins and outs of this fabulous museum).
I grabbed a late lunch at my absolute favorite taco joint in Nashville, San Antonio Taco Company before heading over to The Parthenon Museum, which was open until seven p.m. The Parthenon is the largest full scale exact replica of the original Parthenon in Athens. What many visitors don’t realize is that The Parthenon also has an amazing art collection in the basement. This collection features works by Bierstadt, Church and many other famous American artists.
While still full from lunch, I couldn’t resist dinner at The Loveless Cafe off scenic Highway 100 near The Natchez Trace. The Loveless Cafe is known for their biscuits, and being gluten free while I had to skip the biscuits, I still had a taste of their succulent blackberry jam. It is some of the best blackberry jam I’ve had. You can order it online here. For my main course I picked my old favorite – the BBQ plate with a side salad.
Thursday April 24th:
After grabbing a cup of coffee from one of my favorite Nashville haunts, The Frothy Monkey, I met up with my best friend from college for a day of fun. We are animal lovers and make sure to visit the Nashville Zoo every time we are together. I actually worked part time at the zoo for a few months while at Belmont. It is such an amazing zoo, with beautiful habitats for the animals and a caring staff who goes above and beyond to take care of them. Here are a few of my favorite zoo pics.
April 25th:
Before leaving Nashville to begin my journey back home, I stopped by The FRIST Museum of Art to tour their fabulous Farm to Table art exhibit, which featured works by Monet to Renoir and beyond. You can read about my FRIST ART Expedition here.
I drove for about ninety minutes east on I-40 before stopping for gas and a coffee in Cookeville. While I could have easily stopped at a Starbucks, I decided to go off the beaten track and try a local coffee hotspot – Poet’s Coffee. This charming coffee shop in Downtown Cookeville brews grounds from my favorite Nashville shop Bongo Java, and has some pastries and books for sale as well.
The caffeine jolt gave me energy to get through the next leg of my adventure. The traffic in Knoxville was horrendous, and I was happy to leave the bumper to bumper traffic and take the TN backroads to Historic Jonesborough.
I’ve had Jonesborough on my bucket list for years, but it was always a little out of the way when I was going back and forth from Raleigh to Nashville. With I-40 bottlenecked a bit, I decided to take the leap and go off the main road, exploring Jonesborough before driving an alternate route to Asheville NC.
Jonesborough is the oldest town in Tennessee and home to The National Storytelling Festival. It is one of the most charming historic towns I have visited and I cannot wait to return. Stay tuned to American Nomad for a feature on Jonesborough in the coming weeks.
The drive from Jonesborough to Asheville traversed beautiful scenery but was also bittersweet. I could see so much of the devastation from Helene. The damage done to the region is heartbreaking, but the people of The Blue Ridge are Strong. If you want to help Helene Victims I recommend Beloved Asheville – they do a lot in the region and are highly vetted.
After dinner in Asheville, I checked into The Country Inn and Suites by Radisson. Usually I stay closer to Biltmore Village, but I’m glad I took a chance on this hotel. The price was very affordable and the room was deluxe, not to mention the staff were super friendly.
Saturday April 26th: Biltmore and The Road Home…
I woke up around eight thirty and had breakfast before heading over to The Biltmore Estate for a day of fun. I am a Biltmore pass holder, as I love to visit the estate throughout the year, especially at Christmas time. This was my first time returning since Helene and I was so happy to see Biltmore running at full speed.
The main purpose of this Biltmore visit was to check out their special King Tut exhibit, which features exact replicas of the findings from King Tut’s tomb along with its connection to Biltmore. Stay tuned for our Egyptology Quest at Biltmore in an upcoming post. Book your Biltmore = King Tut Adventure here
I did not take the house tour this visit, instead focusing on the gardens, which were in full bloom on this glorious North Carolina spring day.
What’s for lunch: I was happy to get a table at The Stable Cafe at lunch before they closed. This is my favorite place to eat at Biltmore. They have the best BBQ sandwich (with a gluten free bun). The majority of the food is raised either on Biltmore estate or from local Asheville farmers.
I stopped by the winery and took a wine tour, tasting five unique Biltmore specialty wines. I loved their Malbec and Orange Muscat (a bit sweet, but a perfect dessert wine to dip biscotti in Italian style)
I left Biltmore around four p.m. and decided to spend about thirty minutes on The Blue Ridge Parkway before heading home. The Blue Ridge Parkway is one of my favorite places in the world and I was grateful to drive even a few miles on the scenic road. Sadly so much of the parkway was damaged during Helene. You can help support The Parkway by making a donation to The Blue Ridge Parkway Foundation. They also have volunteering opportunities through NPS as well.
I finally returned to Raleigh just before midnight.
What a whirlwind adventure. I had a blast traveling through history and gorgeous scenery and recording my own music.
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Meet Adele Lassiter, the travel enthusiast behind American Nomad Traveler. This blog is where she shares her love for history, cool museums, art, and travel tips. And when she’s not writing, Adele is also a talented singer-songwriter with a passion for Americana music. Her new album is available here: adelelassiter.bandcamp.com
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