In today’s edition of American Nomad Traveler, we’re taking a Revolutionary Road Trip to scenic Smithfield, Virginia. Located just an hour from Colonial Williamsburg, Smithfield is a place where you can walk in the footsteps of legends, from George Washington to the “Peanut and Ham King” himself, P.D. Gwaltney.
The town’s historic architecture tells a story that spans centuries—from Colonial landmarks to the jaw-dropping Victorian homes that line the streets. Smithfield is truly the kind of town you want to get lost in. Spend your afternoon taking in the serene views of the Pagan Riverfront, meandering through an eclectic mix of local galleries and boutiques, or satiating your taste buds with Isle of Wight specialties. Here, the menu ranges from world-famous Genuine Smithfield Ham and fresh-caught Chesapeake seafood to nostalgic ice cream sundaes topped with crunchy Virginia peanuts.
Whether you’re digging for history, shopping for local treasures, seeking architectural beauty, or ready to explore the region’s great outdoors… Smithfield is ready to welcome you. In this post, we’ll dive into Smithfield’s history, tour iconic sites, and share fun itineraries.
Isle of Wight County has a deep and layered past. From the early Native Americans who first called this land home to some of America’s earliest English settlers, history here runs as deep as the James and Pagan Rivers. These living waterways move like a thread through the past, present, and future—playing a vital role in the settlement and growth of the entire region.
Smithfield is situated on the Pagan River, which flows 12.5 miles directly into the James River, placing it just across the water from Jamestown. As early as 1608, documentation shows Captain John Smith explored the Isle of Wight region and implored the local Warraskoyack for food during a harsh winter. The tribe traded 14 bushels of corn and was instrumental on many occasions in helping the early colonists survive.
The Warraskoyack were part of the Powhatan Confederacy, a group of about thirty Algonquian-speaking tribes in Tidewater Virginia that paid tribute to Wahunsunacawh (Chief Powhatan, the father of Pocahontas). Their territory encompassed what is now Isle of Wight County, and many local names still derive from their language—including the Pagan River itself.
Fun Fact: “Pagan” is actually an anglicized version of the Algonquian word for “Pecan.” Pecan trees used to line the riverbanks and can still be found throughout the area today.
The name “Warraskoyack” roughly translates to “point of land” or “swamp in a corner of land,” a perfect description of the peninsula between the James and Pagan Rivers. You can actually follow the John Smith James River Trail today at nearby Fort Boykin and Chippokes State Park in neighboring Surry County.
The first permanent English colonists arrived in Isle of Wight and adjoining Surry around 1619, including Captain Christopher Lawne and Sir Richard Worsley. While the area was initially known as Warrosquyoake Shire, the legacy of those early years lives on in names like Lawnes Creek—the dividing line between the two counties—and the Lawnes Creek Church.
A Legacy Built on Land and Water
Isle of Wight was officially founded in 1634 as one of the eight original shires of Virginia. It was during this formative decade that St. Luke’s Parish was established. Today, Historic St. Luke’s Church (c. 1680) remains Virginia’s oldest extant church; like Jamestown’s historic church, it stands as a brick-and-mortar testament to a resilient community that rebuilt and endured.
In 1637, Arthur Smith I, a member of the House of Burgesses, received a royal patent for 1,450 acres along the Pagan River—and this is where our Smithfield journey begins. His descendants eventually built Windsor Castle (circa 1725) on the riverbank just a few miles from what is now downtown. By 1750, the family’s influence culminated when Arthur Smith IV requested the House of Burgesses parcel off part of his land to create a proper town.
Fun Fact: While most people assume Smithfield is named for Explorer John Smith, it is actually named for Arthur Smith IV, who founded the town in 1752.
Before the town was even officially chartered, the 1750 Isle of Wight Courthouse was erected. A true historic treasure, it features a unique semi-circular apse—a design choice similar to the Capitol building in Williamsburg, signaling the town’s early importance. When Smithfield was officially chartered in 1752, its 72 lots sold rapidly. By 1776, the town was a bustling port where “Main Street” was actually the Pagan River, used to ship tobacco and goods to the West Indies and England.
The Birth of the Smithfield Ham
In 1767, a merchant from Bermuda named Mallory Todd moved to Smithfield, forever altering the town’s economic destiny. Todd was a true Patriot; a former sea captain, he used his shipping expertise to act as a blockade runner, smuggling arms and vital supplies past British warships to support the Continental Army.
In 1779, on his Main Street property, Todd cured the first “official” Smithfield ham to be exported overseas. While his house still stands, a curing barn remained on the property until the 1930s, marking over 150 years of continuous production. This tradition would later be revolutionized by the legendary entrepreneur P.D. Gwaltney, but it was Todd who first put Smithfield on the world’s plate.
Smithfield in the Crosshairs of Revolution
During the American Revolution, Smithfield found itself dead in the middle of the conflict. The town’s most famous military son was Colonel Josiah Parker. A personal favorite of George Washington, Parker has a claim to fame that echoes through American history: at the Battle of Trenton, it was Smithfield’s own Parker who had the honor of receiving the sword of surrender from the Hessian Colonel Johann Rall.
However, the town faced a “year of terror” in 1781 when the infamous Benedict Arnold—who had recently turned to the “dark side”—stormed through Smithfield. Arnold chose to encamp his army of 800 regulars and Hessian “Jaegers” on the grounds of Pierceville, the estate of Major Thomas Pierce, a prominent Patriot leader. While Arnold’s troops occupied his lawn, Major Pierce was out on a solo reconnaissance mission near Wrenn’s Mill, where he was captured by a Hessian rifleman who claimed Pierce’s horse and gold watch as “booty.”
Lost Home…Sadly Pierceville faced demolition in 2020 but the echoes of the past still remain…
Arnold eventually pushed forward, sending his 80th Regiment across the narrow wooden Red Point Bridge (near today’s South Church Street) to engage the local militia. At Mackie’s Mill, he clashed with Colonel Josiah Parker and 200 Isle of Wight men. Despite being outgunned, the local militia’s brave delay tactics forced Arnold to fight for every inch of ground.
The Guardians of History
Later that summer, the notorious Banastre Tarleton—known as “Bloody Ban”—approached the town. It was here that Elizabeth Bennett Young emerged as a hero. Upon hearing Tarleton was near, Elizabeth (the wife of Deputy Clerk Francis Young) hid the county’s vital court records in a trunk and buried them on a nearby farm until the war’s end.
Decades later, during the Civil War, another hero rose to protect this legacy. Randall Booth, an enslaved man, recognized that the records were at risk of being burned by Union troops. He selflessly loaded the documents onto a wagon and hauled them to a secret location. Because of Elizabeth and Randall, Isle of Wight possesses some of the most intact Colonial-era records in the country. It serves as a powerful reminder: heroes don’t always wear uniforms; sometimes they are everyday citizens fighting the good fight.
Fun Fact: The Records Room at the Isle of Wight County Courthouse is named for Randall Booth. Check out their website here.
Isle of Wight Patriots: Defending Liberty and Legacy
Isle of Wight was a known hub for Patriot activity—from the quick-thinking bravery of Elizabeth Bennett Young to merchants who risked everything to keep the Continental Army fed.
Colonel Josiah Parker: The “Father of the Navy”
Josiah Parker was a true “Patriot de force.” Born at Macclesfield, his family’s estate near present-day Rescue, Virginia, Parker’s career placed him at the very center of the American Revolution’s most iconic imagery and turning points.
A Witness to History:
Parker didn’t just serve; he was a fixture in the inner circle of the Continental Army. His presence was so significant that he is immortalized in John Trumbull’s famous painting, The Capture of the Hessians at Trenton, depicted among the officers receiving the sword of surrender after Washington’s daring Delaware crossing.
His military record reads like a map of the war’s most desperate struggles:
- Brandywine: Parker led the 5th Virginia Regiment through the brutal fog and chaos of one of the war’s largest engagements.
- Smithfield: Proving his local mettle, he famously engaged the forces of the turncoat Benedict Arnold in Smithfield, defending his home soil against the British invasion of Virginia.
Architect of the Seas
Parker’s impact didn’t end when the smoke cleared. As a member of the First U.S. Congress, he transitioned from a man of the sword to a man of the pen. He was the principal architect of the Naval Act of 1794, the landmark legislation that commissioned the first six frigates of the U.S. Navy—including the “Old Ironsides” herself, the USS Constitution.
Perhaps most inspiring was Parker’s moral courage. Despite coming from the planter class, he was one of the first members of the House of Representatives to vocally oppose slavery, voting against the Fugitive Slave Act and calling the trade a “disgrace to the country.”
The Merchant Smugglers: Copeland Parker & Mallory Todd In the 1770s, “smuggling” was a patriotic duty. Copeland Parker (Josiah’s brother) used his status as Port Surveyor to slip vital supplies past British blockades. The British Tea Act had been a breaking point; by giving the East India Tea Company a monopoly, Parliament was trying to put local merchants out of business. Mallory Todd joined the fray, using his ships to brave the Chesapeake, feeding the army with his now-famous hams while keeping supply lines open.
Nomad Tip: Be sure to stop by the Mallory Todd House on Main Street. The house stands as a “witness” to the moment the Smithfield ham transformed from a local specialty into an international icon.
‘Stamp On’ History: Check out this letter between Copeland Parker and George Washington
Major Francis Boykin – Patriot and Tavern Keeper
Another famous patriot from Smithfield is Major Francis Boykin (1751-1805). A distinguished veteran, he first served with Patrick Henry in the Virginia Militia and later joined the Continental Army’s 1st Virginia Regiment under George Washington. Alongside his Smithfield neighbor, Josiah Parker, Boykin fought in the frigid and grueling campaigns of Trenton and Princeton in 1776-77, as well as the intense fighting at Brandywine, Pennsylvania, in September 1777.
Upon returning home, he used his military expertise to refortify the strategic bluffs on the James River. This site, formerly known as “The Castle,” was renamed Fort Boykin in his honor in 1781. Both he and Parker were present to defend their home turf during the turncoat Benedict Arnold’s raid on Smithfield at Mackie’s Mill.
Beyond the battlefield, Boykin was a pivotal civic leader. He famously orchestrated the move of the county seat to Smithfield and built the Boykin Tavern around 1790 to serve the new courthouse. A smart businessman, Boykin purchased this land in 1780 and donated a portion of it for the construction of the 1800 Isle of Wight Courthouse. Conveniently, his tavern was located just next door, providing essential meals and refreshments for court officers, travelers, and curious observers alike. While it seems odd to have law and order with drinks, in the 18th-early-19th century it was not uncommon to meet in taverns for official business. Huzzah!
Today, the Tavern is available for self-guided tours alongside the 1800 “New” Courthouse, standing as a testament to Boykin’s enduring vision for Smithfield.
Fun Fact: Fort Boykin is named after him due to his work on improving the fortifications there. This article from the NPS sheds light on the over 400 year history of Fort Boykin.
Captain John Sinclair: The Pirate Patriot of Smithfield
Captain John Sinclair is the sort of real-life character who should be in a mini-series. A daring privateer, he spent the war harassing British shipping and later piloted the French Fleet into the York River—a maneuver critical in bottling up Lord Cornwallis at Yorktown.
Learn more about this historic house here.
Sinclair’s “pirate” personality famously led to a standoff with John Marshall (future Chief Justice) in 1794. Accused of continued piracy after the war, Sinclair barricaded himself in his home at 335 South Church Street when Marshall arrived with cavalry to arrest him. The standoff was so intense that Marshall withdrew to avoid a bloodbath! Sinclair was later acquitted in Williamsburg, and his home remains a stunning architectural witness today.
Must-Visit “Witnesses” to the Revolution
As we approach America 250 in 2026, don’t miss these sites. You can find them all on the VA250 “Witnesses to the Revolution” walking guide:
- 1750 Isle of Wight Courthouse: A rare gem with its unique semi-circular apse.
- The Todd House: Home of Mallory Todd, patriot blockade runner and founder of the ham trade. (Private Residence)
- The Sinclair-Hines House: Stand where Captain Sinclair turned away future Chief Justice John Marshall! Can you imagine the drama! 335 South Church Street (Private Resident)
- The Smithfield Inn: This is the place where history happened! George Washington actually slept here, along with thousands of other passerby throughout it’s over 250 year history. Originally constructed as a private residence for William Rand, who also served as the town’s first clerk, in 1759, it was converted into an inn and tavern to serve travelers moving between Norfolk and Richmond by stagecoach. George Washington recorded about his stay (then the only inn in town) in 1767. During the Antebellum Period, this was part of the Underground Railroad…
VA250 – Hometown Ham Hero:
While the Smithfield Inn has stood on Main Street since 1752, for over fifty years, its heart and soul resided in the kitchen with Mozell Brown (1939–2021). Known affectionately as ‘The Biscuit Lady,’ Mozell was more than a cook; she was a culinary artisan and a local legend.
Arriving long before the sun rose—often as early as 3:00 AM—Mozell hand-kneaded the famous sweet potato and yeast rolls that put Smithfield on the global map. Without a written recipe, she baked by ‘feel,’ creating a flavor that USA Today eventually recognized as part of the ‘Best Plate’ in Virginia.
Mozell’s fifty-year tenure at the Inn represents a vital thread in our community’s story. In the spirit of America 250, we honor her not just for her legendary biscuits, but for her quiet dedication, her incredible work ethic, and the way she welcomed generations of travelers to our town. The walls of the Inn may be centuries old, but it was Mozell’s warmth and talent that made it a home for everyone who walked through the door.”
- Red Point Bridge Site: Stand at the foot of South Church Street and imagine Arnold’s 80th Regiment marching across the marsh.
- Windsor Castle Park: The ancestral home of Arthur Smith IV. (more on this in a moment)
- The Wentworth-Barrett House (c. 1770):Located on Main Street, this home was present when the first hams were being cured next door!
- Historic St. Luke’s Church (c. 1680): Located just outside town, this is the oldest brick Gothic church in America and a must-see “witness” to the entire colonial era. (keep strolling to discover the history of VA’s oldest church!!!)
From Prosperity to Conflict: The Growth of a River City
In the decades following the American Revolution, Smithfield flourished as a vital ‘River City.’ It served as the primary artery for regional commerce, where farmers brought tobacco and goods to be shipped down the Pagan River, out to the James, and eventually up the Chesapeake Bay.
This era of maritime wealth is still etched into the town’s skyline. As the merchant class grew, they expressed their prosperity through grand architecture. You can still see this in Federal-period gems like the Wentworth-Grinnan House (c. 1780) and the King-Atkinson House (c. 1800), with their symmetrical brickwork and refined elegance. As the 19th century progressed, the town’s character evolved with more ornate styles, leading to the Victorian and Italianate structures—like the iconic Mansion on Main (the Thomas House)—that defined Smithfield just before the storm of the Civil War broke.
The Fires of War Arrive: January 31, 1864
The peace of these elegant streets was finally shattered in the winter of 1864. While Smithfield had managed to avoid the 1862 Peninsula Campaign occupation that plagued neighboring towns, the Union blockade had made life incredibly difficult. Smithfield smugglers spent these years weaving in and out of the interconnected waterways of the Pagan and James, playing a high-stakes game of cat-and-mouse with the Union Navy.
The war remained a distant shadow until the morning of January 31, 1864.
It was a cold, sleepy Sunday. Inside Christ Episcopal Church (c. 1832), the congregation was gathered in prayer when, according to local legend, the janitor burst through the doors. His shout—“Yankee gunboats in the creek!”—sent the community scattering in a panic.
The Battle of Wharf Hill
Earlier that morning, Confederate forces from the Isle of Wight shore had run a Federal steamer aground. In swift retaliation, the Union dispatched the gunboat Smith-Briggs to Smithfield. Roughly 90 soldiers disembarked at the foot of Church Street, skirmishing with local Confederates before realizing they were stranded; the Smith-Briggs had temporarily retreated, leaving them exposed.
When the gunboat finally returned to retrieve the troops, Confederate Major Nathaniel Sturdivant was ready. He had positioned his 12-pound Napoleon cannon at the top of Wharf Hill (the intersection of Main and Mason Streets). Standing there today, you can see why: the hill sloped sharply down to the river, providing a clear “kill shot.”
The cannon fire was devastatingly accurate, piercing the ship’s steam drum. As the vessel drifted into a mud bank, a local soldier named Joseph Norsworthy performed one of the most daring feats in Smithfield history. He climbed aboard the burning ship and wrenched the Gilded Eagle from the pilothouse just before the ship’s magazine exploded with two tons of gunpowder.
Nomad Note: Today, you can dine with history at the Wharf Hill Brewing Co., located right on the slope where the cannon fire roared. Afterward, head to the Isle of Wight County Museum to see that very Gilded Eagle—the ultimate trophy of a town that refused to surrender. Look for a marker detailing the Battle of Smithfield in front of the Isle of Wight Museum.
How The Civil War led to a ‘Goober Frenzy’…The Birth of a Peanut (and Ham) Empire
Peanuts have long been produced in Surry and Isle of Wight counties, and the Virginia peanut remains one of the most prized varieties in the world. Interestingly, peanuts are not native to North America. They originated in South America, traveled north to Mexico via Spanish trade routes, and were eventually brought to Virginia by enslaved Africans, who had learned to cultivate them as a cash crop.
Until the Civil War, peanuts were rarely considered human food. They appeared occasionally in specialty dishes—such as peanut soup—but were primarily grown as livestock feed. In fact, peanuts played a key role in creating the legendary flavor of Smithfield Ham. Local hogs were fed protein-rich Tidewater peanuts, contributing to the ham’s distinctive taste. Historically, to be labeled a Genuine Smithfield Ham, the hogs had to be raised locally and fed regional peanuts.
That all changed during the Civil War. As Union and Confederate troops foraged for food in the South, they discovered the “goober”—the peanut—and quickly embraced it as a nutritious, portable staple. After the war, peanuts exploded in popularity, becoming a common sight at baseball games, circuses, and fairs, and eventually a permanent part of the American diet.
One of the first men to industrialize peanut processing was a Smithfield native named P.D. Gwaltney. In the late 1800s, he revolutionized peanut manufacturing and built a thriving business that earned him the nickname “The Peanut King.” His success coincided with the expansion of railroads, allowing Smithfield products to reach markets far beyond Tidewater Virginia. That empire came to an abrupt halt in 1921, when a devastating fire destroyed much of the peanut processing infrastructure along the Pagan River. Afterward, nearby Suffolk—and eventually Mr. Peanut—rose to prominence in the industry.
But for all his success with peanuts, P.D. Gwaltney knew where the real money—and legacy—lay. Smithfield had been curing exceptional ham for generations, largely through oral tradition passed down in local smokehouses. Gwaltney helped standardize curing methods, aging practices, and quality control, transforming folk knowledge into a scalable business. He also fiercely promoted the idea that Smithfield’s unique Tidewater climate—humid summers, cool winters, and salty coastal air—was essential to proper curing. Long before modern food branding, Gwaltney argued that Smithfield Ham could only truly be made in Smithfield.
If peanuts built his foundation, ham made him legendary.
While Gwaltney may have been the Peanut King, he is perhaps best remembered for “hamming it up.” Smithfield already had a reputation for exceptional ham, but Gwaltney turned that reputation into a national brand, carefully tying the product’s identity to the town itself. By combining traditional curing, modern transportation, and unapologetic showmanship, he helped make “Smithfield Ham” a name recognized across the country. Even today, it remains synonymous with bringing home the bacon.
At the Isle of Wight Museum, you can see two of Gwaltney’s most famous promotional tools:
The “Pet” Ham and the Century-Old Peanut
The World’s Oldest Ham (1902): This was the “pet ham” of P.D. Gwaltney Jr., a master marketer. He was so proud of his curing process that he took this ham to fairs on a brass leash, like a pet dog! While technically “edible” because it is so heavily cured, it’s now a hard-as-rock historical artifact that has survived over 120 years.
The World’s Oldest Peanut (1890): Another Gwaltney treasure, this peanut was also a staple of the exposition circuit.
Gwaltney famously took these curiosities on the road to fairs and exhibitions, an early form of viral marketing meant to prove quality, longevity, and trust at a time when food safety was a real concern.
Ham Cam: If you can’t wait for your visit, the museum actually hosts a 24/7 “Ham Cam” on their website so you can check in on these legendary snacks!
Check out the museum’s 24/7 Ham Cam here.
One of the most striking homes in Smithfield is the jaw-dropping Gwaltney House, a physical reminder of how peanuts—and especially ham—helped build a Tidewater empire.
Smithfield: Where History, Hospitality, and Ham Collide
Today, Smithfield is a thriving community rooted in four things: hams, hospitality, the arts, and the river. A stroll down its historic streets feels like a trip across time, blending a rich colonial past with the vibrant energy of today’s local shops, eateries, and festivals.
Planning Your Adventure
Smithfield is an easy day trip from Norfolk, Williamsburg, or Richmond, but I highly encourage staying a night or two. It serves as the perfect “base camp” for exploring the region while allowing you to fully soak in the downtown culture.
Where to Stay: From Wharf Vibes to Victorian Grandeur
My mom and I checked into Smithfield Station, located right on the banks of the Pagan River. Even though the building dates to the 1980s, it perfectly captures a vintage “wharf” feel with a coastal mariner vibe.
- The Experience: Smithfield Station features a marina and even its own lighthouse! We loved our room, which was situated right above their award-winning restaurant.
- Dining: The restaurant offers stunning riverfront views and a menu ranging from fresh Chesapeake seafood to, of course, ham-inspired dishes.
Other Historic Stays:
- The Smithfield Inn (est. 1752): A must for history buffs. George Washington himself was a guest here! Even if you don’t stay the night, you can dine in the tavern to experience that authentic 18th-century atmosphere. Book your stay here.
- Mansion on Main Street: This Victorian “Grand Lady” is a jaw-dropper. Staying here allows you to live like the “Ham and Peanut Kings” of the Gilded Age. Don’t miss their nearby antique shop! Book your stay here.
A Foodie’s Paradise
Smithfield truly punches above its weight when it comes to dining. Here are a few spots that belong on your list:
- Smithfield Gourmet Cafe & Bakery: Incredible pastries and a breakfast menu that hits the spot.
- Smithfield Station Restaurant – I recommend their seafood platter!
- Cure Coffeehouse: The perfect place to “cure” your caffeine fix.
- Wharf Hill Brewing: Popular spot for spirits, history and great food!
- QDaddy’s BBQ: Delicious BBQ from the Ham Capital of the World.
- Darden’s Country Store: A legendary spot for authentic, perfectly cured Smithfield-style hams.
- The Tasting Rooms: Check out Taste of Smithfield for ham flights or Smithfield Winery for a local pour.
Must-Visit Museums: Deep Roots and Resilience
Beyond the shops and snacks, Smithfield’s museums tell the soul-stirring story of the region:
I mentioned it earlier, but it bears repeating…
The Isle of Wight County Museum is a MUST VISIT! The building itself has a lot of history as a bank and telephone company. In addition to the World’s Oldest Peanut and Ham, you can see lots of Native American artifacts, Colonial era artifacts and pieces from the James Adams floating theatre (Showboat).
Look for:
- The Smith Briggs Eagle: During the Battle of Smithfield (1864), Confederate forces destroyed the Union gunboat Smith Briggs. Before the ship was blown up, a local man climbed aboard and wrenched a gilded eagle from the pilot house. Today, that eagle is a prized “trophy of war” on display in the museum.
- The Floating Theatre: Long before Netflix, entertainment came to Smithfield via the James Adams Floating Theatre. This massive “showboat” would dock at the wharf, bringing vaudeville and plays to the river community. It even inspired Edna Ferber’s famous novel (and later musical), Show Boat.
The Schoolhouse Museum: A Legacy of Resilience
Located on Main Street, The Schoolhouse Museum is a deeply moving “time capsule” that preserves the history of African American education in the early 20th century. While the museum was revitalized as a centerpiece of the 2007 Jamestown 400th Anniversary commemorations, its heart dates back to 1932. This restored two-room schoolhouse stands as a lasting testament to the resilience and determination of the Black community during the era of segregation.
Inside, the museum breathes life into the past. It features authentic period desks, textbooks, and oral histories from former students who attended similar “Rosenwald-style” schools. These schools were born from a unique partnership between Booker T. Washington and philanthropist Julius Rosenwald, aimed at providing quality education for Black children across the rural South.
As we look toward the 250th anniversary of the United States, sites like the Schoolhouse Museum remind us that the “pursuit of happiness” and the right to an education were hard-won victories. It honors the teachers and families who, despite the systemic barriers of the Jim Crow era, built a foundation of excellence for future generations. It is a vital stop for anyone looking to understand the full, diverse story of Smithfield’s journey from a colonial outpost to a modern community.
The Bronze Residents of Main Street
One of the most charming things about Smithfield is that you’re never truly walking alone. The town is home to the largest collection of bronze statues by renowned sculptor George Lundeen in the country. These life-sized figures aren’t behind velvet ropes; they sit on park benches and stand on sidewalks, inviting you to sit down and take a photo.
- “Valentine” (The Elderly Couple): My absolute favorite. It depicts an elderly man and woman sitting on a bench, leaning into each other with a look of quiet, enduring love. It perfectly captures the “slow down and stay a while” vibe of the town.
- The “Lundeen” George Washington: Located near the Smithfield Inn, this statue depicts Washington in a casual, thoughtful pose. It’s a great reminder of the many Revolutionary-era figures who traveled these very roads between Williamsburg and Portsmouth.
- The Reading Girl: You’ll find a young girl lost in a book, a tribute to the town’s appreciation for quiet reflection and history.
- Benjamin Franklin: Standing proudly in front of the Smithfield Times office. Beyond his role as a Founding Father, he’s here because he was the first Postmaster General. Smithfield was one of his original 15 designated post offices in 1775—a huge deal for colonial communication.
Why the Bronze?
The statues were largely a gift to the town from Joseph Luter III, the former head of Smithfield Foods. He wanted to turn the historic district into an “outdoor gallery.” By bringing in George Lundeen’s work, he transformed a simple walk down Main Street into a world-class art experience
The “Porcine Parade”: 8-Foot Hams on the Street
If the bronze statues are the “soul” of the town, the Pork-Out Statues are its “spirit.” Scattered throughout the historic district are eight uniquely painted, life-sized pig sculptures.
- Each one is a work of art created by a different local artist.
- They celebrate Smithfield’s identity as the “Ham Capital of the World.”
- Pro Tip: Challenge yourself to find all eight! It’s the perfect way to make sure you’ve seen every nook and cranny of the historic downtown.
Windsor Castle Park: Where History Meets the River
For those who love the intersection of nature and deep-rooted history, Windsor Castle Park is the crown jewel of Smithfield. Spanning 208 acres, the park is part of the original land patent belonging to Arthur Smith I, and was eventually the home of his descendant, Arthur Smith IV—the man who officially founded the town of Smithfield.
The Power of Place
What is truly striking about Windsor Castle is the sheer age and survival of the site. While the Virginia Tidewater is home to some of the oldest European settlements in North America, many 17th and 18th-century structures were lost to fire, war, or the whims of changing architectural fashion.
At Windsor Castle, the Manor House stands as a rare survivor. Built between 1725 and 1730 by Arthur Smith III, it sits on land the family inhabited since the 1630s. Though the home was expanded in the early 19th century—featuring exterior chimneys and a beautiful mix of Federal-style trim and an original walnut corner cupboard—the 18th-century core remains intact.
Living History: The Outbuildings
While the Manor House is the centerpiece, the site’s true treasure lies in its eleven historic outbuildings. These structures—including smokehouses, a colonial kitchen, and slave quarters—offer a profound look at the daily lives of everyone who lived here. Visiting the grounds where enslaved men and women lived and worked is a vital part of the experience, ensuring their stories and contributions remain a part of our collective memory.
- Recognition: In 1987, both the manor house and its surrounding acreage were rightfully listed on the Virginia Landmarks Register and the National Register of Historic Places.
A Modern Community Hub
Today, the park has evolved from a private plantation into a vibrant public space. It manages to balance its heavy history with a lively, modern energy.
- Events & Music: The rolling lawns frequently host live concerts and the famous BOB Fest (Brunswick Stew, Oysters, and Beer).
- On the Water: The park features a dedicated kayak and canoe launch, allowing you to paddle through the serene marshes of Cypress Creek and the Pagan River.
- The Trails: Miles of woodland trails and pedestrian bridges make it a premier destination for hikers and runners.
The Insider Tip: If you can, time your visit for late afternoon. The sunset views over the Pagan River are, quite simply, some of the most spectacular in the state. Official website
Fort Boykin: Four Centuries of Defense
“This site stands as a 400-year witness to American defense. Long before the first fortifications, Captain John Smith landed on these shores in 1608, meeting with the Warraskoyack people to secure the corn that saved a starving Jamestown. By 1623, the site was christened ‘The Castle,’ a rugged earthen outpost built to guard the young colony against Spanish marauders and local raids.
Through the centuries, these bluffs were reshaped by every major American conflict. The traitor Benedict Arnold brought the Revolutionary War to these banks in 1781, and during the War of 1812, the fort was expanded into a strategic star shape to eliminate ‘blind spots’ against the Royal Navy.
Today, you can still walk among the remarkably preserved Civil War earthworks. These walls once stood watch over the CSS Virginia (the Merrimack) as it prowled the channel, and in May 1862, they shook under a fierce bombardment from Union warships like the ironclad USS Galena. Closing your eyes, you can almost hear the echoes of the heavy guns on the James River and the thunder of the naval shells that forever marked this landscape. Plan your visit here
Fort Huger: The “Gateway to the Capital”
For Civil War buffs, a visit to Fort Huger (pronounced hugh-gee) is non-negotiable. Perched on a high bluff overlooking the James River, this site served as a strategic sentinel for the Confederacy, earning it the moniker: “Gateway to the Confederate Capital of Richmond.”
During the war, the Union maintained a firm grip on Fort Monroe at the mouth of the Chesapeake. This meant that the James River was the ultimate highway to Richmond; if the Union Navy could sail upriver, the war could end in an afternoon. Fort Huger was the jagged tooth in the Confederacy’s defense designed to stop them.
Engineering the Defense
Constructed in 1861 under the direction of the Confederate Engineer Bureau, the fort was designed by the renowned engineer Colonel Andrew Talcott and named for Major General Benjamin Huger. Like much of the infrastructure of the era, the massive earthworks were built through the grueling labor of both enslaved people and free Black workers, making the site a significant archaeological landmark of the human cost of the conflict.
The fort’s design was formidable:
- Heavy Artillery: It featured a 500-foot front designed to house 15 heavy cannons, including massive 10-inch Columbiads and 32-pounders.
- The “Hot-Shot” Furnace: One of the most terrifying tactics used here was the firing of “hot-shot”—cannonballs heated in a furnace until they were white-hot, specifically designed to set the wooden hulls of enemy ships on fire upon impact.
A Clash of Ironclads
The fort’s biggest test came on May 8, 1862. A Union Navy squadron, which included the legendary ironclad USS Monitor and the USRC Naugatuck, engaged the fort in a fierce exchange. Though the fort held its own, the changing tides of the Peninsula Campaign eventually forced the Confederates to “spike” their guns (rendering them useless) and abandon the position to avoid being surrounded.
The Visitor Experience: History Meets Nature
Dedicated as a 22-acre historic park in 2008 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places, Fort Huger today is a hauntingly beautiful place where military history and Virginia’s natural landscape collide.
- Intact Earthworks: Unlike many Civil War sites that have been leveled by time or development, Fort Huger’s original earthworks remain remarkably well-preserved. You can still trace the original pathways and see the remains of the furnace used to heat the “hot-shot.”
- The “Ghost Fleet”: From the scenic overlooks on the bluff, you get an expansive view of the James River. If you look closely, you can often spot the modern-day James River Reserve Fleet, famously known as the “Ghost Fleet”—a collection of decommissioned ships anchored in the distance.
- A Natural Sanctuary: The park transitions from military history to a serene hardwood forest. A wooden bridge crosses a stunning cypress swamp, providing a habitat for songbirds like the Yellow-throated Warbler and the Summer Tanager.
- Replica Cannons: To help visitors visualize the fort’s power, five replica Civil War-era cannons are mounted along the ramparts, aimed exactly where their predecessors were over 160 years ago.
The Church That Time Forgot: A Deep Dive into St. Luke’s Historic Church
Just a few miles from downtown Smithfield, Virginia, sits a true architectural wonder and a silent witness to centuries of American history. St. Luke’s Historic Church and Museum was built in the 1680s, though the parish itself dates back to approximately 1630.
When I first approached the building, its silhouette felt hauntingly familiar, yet out of place. While it shares the pointed arches of the mid-19th-century Gothic Revival, St. Luke’s is the real deal—a “Gothic Survivor.” Along with its sister church in Jamestown, it represents a rare transition point in American architecture, predating the symmetrical, white-trimmed Georgian style (think Williamsburg) that would later dominate the colonies.
Architectural Marvels of the “Artisan Mannerism” Style
St. Luke’s is built in a style known as Artisan Mannerism, a period where colonial builders were still clinging to the aesthetics of the Middle Ages while incorporating new brickwork techniques.
- The Buttresses: It is the only colonial church in the U.S. that retains its original exterior brick buttresses—those structural “fins” designed to reinforce the weight of the walls.
- Flemish Bond Masonry: The walls are a masterclass in craftsmanship. Using a “Flemish Bond” (alternating long “stretchers” and short “headers”), the builders created such structural integrity that the original walls have stood for nearly 350 years.
- The Great East Window: The window features intricate brick tracery, a decorative element that was already becoming a lost art in Europe by the time this church was completed.
Secrets of the Sanctuary: The 1630 Organ
Stepping inside the sanctuary feels like stepping across the Atlantic. The crown jewel of the interior is a rare English chamber organ dating to 1630. During the English Civil War, Oliver Cromwell—the Puritan leader famously known for “canceling Christmas”—ordered the destruction of church organs across England, viewing them as “popish” and idolatrous. This particular organ was likely hidden in a private home for centuries before being brought to Virginia in the 1950s. Today, it remains one of the oldest playable pipe organs in the world.
Buried History and Smithsonian Discoveries
St. Luke’s is also home to the oldest “open” cemetery in Virginia, meaning it is still an active burial ground. While the oldest marked headstone belongs to James Eason (1767), a local merchant, the ground beneath holds much older secrets.
Working with the Smithsonian Institution, researchers have conducted archaeological digs to solve centuries-old mysteries:
- The Broken Founder: Colonel Joseph Bridger, the man who funded the church, was buried under the chancel floor. When exhumed, his bones were found crammed into a small brick box—a makeshift re-interment after his original resting place was disturbed centuries later. Find A Grave link here.
- The Mystery Woman: For years, a woman buried alongside Bridger was a subject of local legend. DNA and genealogical testing recently identified her as a relative by marriage, finally putting the rumors to rest.
- Unmarked History: Archaeology has also revealed over 100 unmarked graves, including those belonging to the enslaved African American community who lived and worked in the region.
Exploring the “Ghost Church” and Castle of Surry County
If you have time, a twenty-minute drive into Surry County leads to Bacon’s Castle and the ruins of the Old Bacon’s Castle Brick Church (also known as Lawne’s Creek Church). This is considered on of the most endangered churches in Virginia.
Standing as a haunting “key to the past,” the ruins of Lawnes Creek Church represent a story of both endurance and loss. Formed in 1632, the Southwark Parish of Surry County eventually constructed this brick structure in 1754. Its walls—a mix of Flemish and English bond with glazed headers—served an active Anglican congregation until the fires of the Revolutionary War changed everything.
Following the Revolution, the Anglican Church faced a crisis. As a former royal colony, the state had previously paid the clergy; when that support vanished, many priests who remained loyal to the Crown fled. This left rural parishes like Southwark vacant for decades. Though it was revived as an Episcopal parish in 1847, the church’s life was cut short in 1868 when it was tragically destroyed by arson. Today, only the thick, weathered brick walls remain.
The site continues to reveal its secrets. Recent research shows that the Allen family (of nearby Bacon’s Castle) worshipped here, and several descendants are buried within the churchyard. Most recently, the grounds became a final resting place for a “lost” family from the turn of the 18th century.
In 2024, six individuals were reinterred here after their original graves were uncovered by the James River Institute for Archaeology during a dig on Dominion Energy land. The site was once a small farmstead (circa 1680–1720) likely belonging to a family of tenants or indentured servants.
The six graves—four adults, a young child, and an infant—were found arranged in related pairs and aligned in the traditional Christian east-west orientation. Forensic analysis of their teeth offered a poignant glimpse into the immigrant experience: the adults were likely born in Europe, evidenced by a wheat-based diet, while the children were born in the colony, raised on Virginia corn. Now reinterred at Southwark, this unknown family finally rests among the community they helped build.
The church was burned in 1868, but its Flemish bond walls refused to crumble, leaving behind a striking “Ghost Church.” Local legend tells of a spirited fireball that emerges from the graves, traveling to Bacon’s Castle before returning to the cemetery. While we didn’t see the fireball, we were treated to a “firecracker” sunset over the ruins.
Bacon’s Castle: A Jacobean Masterpiece
Bacon’s Castle is the oldest extant brick house in North America (1665). Built by my direct ancestor, Arthur Allen, it is one of the few examples of Jacobean architecture in the New World. It earned its name during Bacon’s Rebellion in 1676, when followers of Nathaniel Bacon seized the home as a fortified stronghold against Governor Berkeley. Today, it is beautifully preserved by Preservation Virginia.
Architectural Deep Dive: What Makes the Castle Unique?
Bacon’s Castle is considered the finest example of High Jacobean architecture in the Western Hemisphere. It was built for Arthur Allen in 1665 and features several rare elements that distinguish it from the later Georgian “boxes” found in Williamsburg:
- Triple Diamond Chimneys: One of the most striking features is the set of three diagonal (diamond-shaped) chimney stacks. This was a high-status design in 17th-century England, intended to show off the owner’s wealth.
- Curvilinear Gables: The roofline features “Flemish” or curvilinear gables—wavy, ornamental brickwork that was highly fashionable during the reign of King James I (hence “Jacobean”).
- The Cruciform Plan: The house was built in the shape of a cross, with a projecting front porch tower and a matching rear stair tower.
- The 17th-Century Garden: Archaeological digs have uncovered a massive English Renaissance formal garden. It is the earliest found in North America and was a “pleasure garden” meant for strolls and displays of status rather than just growing food.
Hidden Stories of the Castle
The house also bears the literal marks of its long history. On one of the glass windows, you can find a diamond-etched love poem written in September 1840 by Emmett Robinson to his wife, Indiana Allen Henley Robinson, the last of the Allen descendants to live in the home.
The grounds also feature rare surviving outbuildings, including an 1830 slave dwelling, which provides a crucial perspective on the lives of the enslaved community—such as Simon, Mingo, and Emmanuell—who lived and labored there alongside your ancestors.
Chippokes: Four Centuries of Farming
Chippokes State Park is one of the oldest continually farmed landscapes in America. During the “Starving Time” of 1608–1609, Captain John Smith relied on the Quiyoughcohannock people and their chief, Choapoke, who was friendly to Smith. This alliance was vital; the corn and deer provided by the Quiyoughcohannock were the primary reason the Jamestown colony survived. Today, the park bears the Chief’s name, and at the river overlook, you can see the ancient Cypress trees—the “Cypress Cathedral”—that provided the timber for Indigenous dugout canoes.
The Mystery of the Out-Plantation
This tract of land was deeded to Captain William Powell in 1619. For over 100 years (roughly 1680–1830), wealthy owners like the Ludwell family rarely visited, leaving Chippokes to function as an “out-plantation” (not a primary residence, but land that was still cultivated). During this era, the farm was managed by enslaved foremen and white overseers, creating a distinct, isolated community that kept the agricultural engine running for over a century without the owners’ presence.
- Read more about the interesting life of Lucy Ludwell, heir of Chippokes here.
The River House (c. 1830)
The oldest standing structure in the park, this “hall-and-parlor” style frame house was built by Charles Osborne for occasional visits. It eventually became the primary home for Albert Carroll Jones while he oversaw the transition of Chippokes from a modest farm into a grand plantation estate.
The Jones–Stewart Mansion (1854)
This Italianate antebellum home is the park’s architectural centerpiece. Legend says Albert Jones saved it during the Civil War by sharing his famous brandies with both Union and Confederate soldiers. However, the wealth of the mansion was built on the labor of over 20 enslaved individuals who maintained the grounds and worked the brandy orchards.
Walnut Valley & The Slave Quarter
The adjacent Walnut Valley property contains a 1770 plantation house and a rare 1816 slave quarter. This brick structure is a sobering and significant site; it reflects the physical reality of the lives of the enslaved people who actually performed the “four centuries of farming.”
The Living Legacy: Evelyn Stewart’s Dream
In 1918, Victor and Evelyn Stewart purchased the property, dedicating decades to its restoration. Having no children to inherit the estate, Mrs. Stewart deeded the 1,403-acre plantation to Virginia in 1967.
The Stipulation: Crucially, her gift came with a legal requirement: the land must remain a working farm. This was not to be a frozen monument, but a living interpretation of Virginia’s agricultural history. Because of her vision, the “continuity” started in 1619 continues today—the fields are still tilled, and the cycles of the seasons still dictate the rhythm of the park.
Plan Your Visit
- Visitor Center: Start here for the Indigenous history and to see if any new artifacts have been uncovered in the fields.
- Farm Museum: Explore tools and machinery that bridge the gap from 1619 to the modern era.
- The Working Farm: Visit the chickens and cows near the mansion to see Mrs. Stewart’s “living farm” stipulation in action.
- The Tour: Walk through the Jones-Stewart Mansion and the grounds of Walnut Valley to see the contrast between the lives of the owners and the workers.
Pro-Tip: If you walk the shoreline, keep an eye out for fossilized shark teeth and shells—a reminder that before this was a farm, it was an ancient seabed!
Smith’s Fort: A Story of Survival and Legacy
Only a few miles from Chippokes and Bacon’s Castle, don’t miss Smith’s Fort. Located directly across from Jamestown, this was the site of Captain John Smith’s proposed ‘New Fort’ on the James River. The landscape still holds the earthworks of this unfinished retreat, partially completed in 1609 before being abandoned as the colony struggled to survive. The manor home on-site was built in 1765 by Jacob Faulcon and still features much of its beautiful original pine woodwork.
In 1886, the property—then called Gray’s Creek Farm—was purchased by a collective of African American families, including Bolling Morris, John and Carter Hardy, and Robertson Simmons. By the 1920s, Mr. Morris had become the sole owner. He eventually sold the property to the Williamsburg Restoration, the organization backed by John D. Rockefeller Jr., which was then in the process of preserving the region’s historic heart. Smith’s Fort was ultimately acquired by Preservation Virginia in 1933 and has operated as a museum ever since.
Preservation Virginia owns/partners with several historic sites in Virginia including Bacon’s Castle and Historic Jamestown. Check out their website for more info.
The Perfect Day in Smithfield: Planning Your Adventure
Smithfield is the perfect day trip from Williamsburg or Norfolk, you can experience the heart of Smithfield in a single day. Looking for a fun itinerary? Here is how I recommend spending your time
Morning: Coffee and Colonial History
- Start at the Visitor Center: Grab your maps and local tips. This is the best place to get your bearings. Official Website
- Breakfast at Smithfield Cafe: Fuel up with a classic breakfast before hitting the pavement.
- The “Historic Loop”: Take a tour of the Isle of Wight Museum (home to the world’s oldest ham!) and the 1750 Isle of Wight Courthouse.
- Windsor Castle Park: Drive over for a bit of scenery. It offers a beautiful “sense of place” with trails and views that capture the town’s riverside roots.
Mid-Day: Art, Statues, and Shopping
As you meander through the historic district, keep your eyes peeled for the town’s famous residents. Smithfield is home to the largest collection of bronze works by sculptor George Lundeen.
- The “Lundeen” Statues: Look for the elderly Valentine couple (my personal favorite) and historical figures like George Washington.
- The Main Street “Pressman”: You’ll find Benjamin Franklin in front of the Smithfield Times. Why Ben? In 1775, Smithfield was one of the first 15 post offices he organized in Virginia, and his presence here is a nod to his legacy as a legendary newspaperman.
- The Porcine Parade: Don’t forget to spot the “artsy” pig sculptures—each one is uniquely painted and adds a whimsical touch to the streetscape.
Afternoon: Refuel and Explore
- Lunch: Grab a table at The Fiddlin’ Pig for some local flavor.
- A Caffeine Fix: If you need a mid-afternoon boost, head to CURE Coffeehouse to “cure” your caffeine craving.
- Dessert: You can’t leave without a scoop from Smithfield Ice Cream Parlor.
Evening: Dinner with a View
Before you head out, I highly recommend stopping at St. Luke’s Historic Church (it’s on the way in or out of town). For dinner, you have three fantastic options:
- The Smithfield Inn: Where a bronze George Washington is waiting to greet you.
- Smithfield Station: Perfect if you’re looking for sunset views over the water.
- Wharf Hill Brewing Co.: A local favorite for a cozy, historic atmosphere.
Have an Extra Day?
If you can stay longer, the possibilities are endless. I recommend heading into the surrounding countryside to explore:
- Bacon’s Castle & Chippokes State Park: Just a 20-minute drive into Surry County.
- Darden’s Country Store: A must-visit for an authentic Smithfield ham and a true step back in time.
- Smithfield Winery: Relax with a tasting of award-winning local wines.
- Fort Huger: Walk the trails of this “Gateway to Richmond” and see the preserved Civil War earthworks.
- Tour the School House Museum: An amazing museum telling the story of African-American students in the early 20th century.
- Drive to Boykin Tavern and 1800 Isle of Wight Courthouse area.
- The list of activities is endless!!!!
Ready to plan you Smithfield getaway? I recommend visiting the Visit Smithfield’s amazing website for the latest fun and more great itineraries.
Love history…stay tuned for more features on Smithfield, VA250, fun road trips and more.
Hi, I’m Adele Lassiter, the travel enthusiast behind American Nomad Traveler. This is where I share my love for history, cool museums, art, and travel tips. When I’m not writing, I’m a singer-songwriter with a passion for Americana music. You can find my new album here: adelelassiter.bandcamp.com
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