In early June, I found a true hidden gem in the western NC Piedmont: historic Salisbury, North Carolina. This city is a treasure trove for anyone interested in American history, with stories spanning from the Revolutionary War through the Civil War and its later life as a bustling textile and railroad center.
But Salisbury isn’t just about the past. Its downtown is alive with a burgeoning foodie scene, great local restaurants, and craft breweries. And for art lovers, the amazing Waterworks Art Gallery offers everything from top-tier traveling exhibits to works by local artists and even classes.
In this edition of American Nomad, I’ll take you on a journey through Salisbury’s history, share the highlights of my trip, and provide some helpful resources to help you plan your own perfect getaway.
Salisbury – A Crossroads of History:
Conveniently located right off I-85, Salisbury is an easy regional getaway. It’s about forty-five minutes northeast of Charlotte and only a few hours west of my homebase in Raleigh. With its rich history, amazing museums, great restaurants, and outdoor access, Salisbury truly offers something for everyone and is ready to welcome you.
Founded in 1753, Salisbury as the seat of Rowan County is one of the oldest towns in North Carolina. Prior to European settlement, Native American tribes like the Catawba and Saponi called this area home. Salisbury was the crossroads of two Native American trading routes making it an important spot for Native Tribes and early settlers.
The first European settlers came into Rowan County in the 1740s and 50s, traveling down the Great Wagon Road from Pennsylvania to Virginia and into North Carolina. These early settlers were a mix of German and Scots-Irish each searching for a better life in America.
Between the mid-1760s and 1771, a growing conflict known as the Regulator Movement took hold in North Carolina. Frontier settlers felt ignored and exploited by the colonial government, which they believed was filled with corrupt officials who levied excessive taxes and illegal fees. In Salisbury, citizens were torn: some joined the Regulators in their vigilante efforts to curb the corruption, while others remained loyal to Royal Governor Lord Tryon. Though the movement’s main fighting ended with the Battle of Alamance in 1771, Salisbury’s role in the struggle for fairness helped pave the way for a deeper desire for independence in the years that followed.
In the early 1770s, growing tensions with Great Britain came to a head. Parliament passed the Tea Act in 1773, which sparked the Boston Tea Party that December. In response, the crown enacted the punitive Intolerable Acts. This series of events galvanized colonists far beyond Massachusetts. Even over a thousand miles away, in Rowan County, citizens shared the same fundamental frustration: the desire to be treated as first-class citizens and to have taxation with representation. A growing number of community members sought to assert their rights, culminating in the Rowan Resolves on August 8, 1774. This article, written and signed by prominent citizens, is considered by many historians to be one of the first documents proclaiming North Carolina’s involvement in the American Revolution.
During the American Revolution, Salisbury served as a crucial manufacturing and supply hub. For the first few years of the war, North Carolina was largely spared from major battles, as the British and Americans focused their efforts on the northern states.
However, after a stalemate in the North, the British shifted their strategy in late 1779. General Henry Clinton decided to attack the South, believing there was a “silent majority” of Loyalists who would rise up to support them. The British hoped to seize southern territory and then squeeze George Washington’s forces from both the North and South without needing to commit more troops from Britain.
This strategy was deeply flawed. Loyalist sentiment was not as strong as the British anticipated. The brutality of leaders like Lt. Colonel Banastre Tarleton, whose “no quarter” policy at the Battle of the Waxhaws (May 29, 1780)earned him the nickname “the Butcher,” only inflamed anti-British sentiment. Captain Patrick Ferguson also angered locals by threatening violence if they didn’t submit to the crown. These threats led to the rise of the Overmountain Men, a militia from the Appalachian frontier, who decisively defeated and killed Ferguson at the Battle of Kings Mountain in 1780.
In early 1781, another Patriot victory at the Battle of Cowpens in South Carolina set the stage for a strategic pursuit. Both the British and Americans were in desperate need of supplies and a chance to regroup, which initiated the famous “Race to the Dan.” General Nathanael Greene’s goal was to reach safety in Virginia and get his forces resupplied. In his masterful retreat, Greene and his men crossed the Yadkin River at Trading Ford near Salisbury. A sudden rainstorm swelled the river, blocking Cornwallis’s pursuing army and giving Greene the time he needed. He then continued his advance, skillfully evading Cornwallis until he could cross the Dan River and secure his position.
Cornwallis’s troops camped at the Old Stone House in Salisbury (more on that in a bit)
Downtown, a historical marker pays homage to Elizabeth Steele, a prominent patriot and tavern owner. Legend has it that when General Greene came through Salisbury, he was low on money and sought help at Elizabeth Steele’s Tavern. While this story is more myth than fact, Elizabeth Steele was indeed a patriot who donated to the cause and no doubt did what she could to assist Greene’s men as they passed through Salisbury. It’s a testament to the community’s support for the Revolution.
The Old English Cemetery has graves of Revolutionary War soldiers including several of Cornwallis Men.
Salisbury’s Gold Rush: Did you know North Carolina was home to one of America’s earliest significant gold rushes? Gold was first discovered at the Reed Gold Mine in Cabarrus County in 1799, and later at Gold Hill in Rowan County in 1824. During its operation, the mines at Gold Hill produced more than six million dollars in gold. This, along with other regional gold mines, led the federal government to establish a mint in Charlotte. While the California Gold Rush of 1849 drew away much of the “gold fever” from North Carolina, mining remained a vital part of Rowan County’s industrial development.
Turmoil of the Civil War..
During the Civil War, Salisbury was home to North Carolina’s only Confederate prison. Like most Civil War prisons, the living conditions for the Union prisoners of war were horrendous. The horrors of this period haunted Salisbury for years as it struggled to rebuild its economy and dealt with the rise of racist groups like the Ku Klux Klan. However, the city also became a beacon of hope, serving as the home to one of the state’s first African American colleges, Livingstone College, which continues its legacy of excellence today. Salisbury does an excellent job of sharing this complex history through interpretive signs located throughout the downtown area.
In the later years of the 19th century, Salisbury and Rowan County rebuilt by becoming a hub for both the textile industry and transportation. To learn more about this important history, you can visit the North Carolina Transportation Museum in the neighboring community of Spencer.
Salisbury is also the birthplace of two North Carolina icons: Cheerwine and Food Lion. Cheerwine, a popular regional soda with a distinct cherry flavor, was created here. Meanwhile, the popular grocery chain Food Lion was also founded in Salisbury, with its first store opening in 1957.
Today Salisbury is a crossroads for culture and industry. It provides North Carolina small town charm with easy access to larger city hubs, making it an ideal place to visit and live.
Our Salisbury Adventure:
My mom and I have always loved making a stop in Salisbury on our trips to Charlotte, especially to stroll through the city’s charming historic downtown. But on this visit, we had two very specific reasons to stay a while.
As a longtime art lover and museum-goer, I was thrilled to discover that Salisbury’s Waterworks Art Gallery was hosting a truly impressive exhibition featuring works from renowned artists like Monet and Picasso. The chance to see pieces of this caliber in a smaller, regional gallery was an opportunity I couldn’t pass up.
In addition to the art, we wanted to dive deeper into Salisbury’s Revolutionary War history. To celebrate the upcoming 250th anniversary of the American Revolution, I’ve been on a mission to retrace “liberty trails” across the country. My research revealed just how pivotal Salisbury was—from the years leading up to the war and the Regulator Movement to the critical 1781 campaign known as the Race to the Dan between Patriot Commander Nathanael Greene and British General Lord Cornwallis.
After breakfast at our hotel (Comfort Inn off I-85) we headed downtown to the Waterworks Museum. This arts center is a treasure for the community, offering unique rotating exhibits, regional artists, educational opportunities, and special events. While it is easy to overlook regional art museums, DON’T. Regional museums often feature some of the most dynamic collections I’ve encountered from Old Master to regional artists I’ve fallen in love with. The minute we stepped into The Waterworks, I could feel the artistic energy pulsating in the walls. This is a museum that is fueled by passion for community and love of the arts.
Founded in 1959 as the Rowan Art Guild, the Waterworks Visual Arts Center is now located in a gorgeous studio and gallery space in the heart of Salisbury’s East Square Arts District. It’s the only teaching museum within a forty-mile radius of Salisbury, making it a unique hub for creativity and education. The museum’s mission is to be a place where ideas and communities can converge, expanding traditional ways of thinking by exploring the connections between artistic and cultural spheres. The result is a unique blend of education, inspiration, and creativity.
Until August 30th, 2025, Waterworks is hosting a remarkable exhibition: forty masterworks from the private collection of Julian and Josie Robertson. Julian, a finance magnate, was born and raised in Salisbury. He never forgot his roots, and his mother, Blanche, even helped found Waterworks, sharing her passion for the arts with her children.
The Robertsons became avid art collectors, with a collection spanning diverse styles and artists from Monet and Pissarro to Picasso and Kandinsky. What makes this exhibition so special is that these works, which were long displayed in their Manhattan home, had never been on public display before.
Tragically, both Julian and Josie passed away several years ago. In their memory and as a tribute to their love for Salisbury, their children decided to allow Waterworks to showcase these stunning pieces for one year. The Robertsons also bequeathed several works, including a Picasso, to the North Carolina Museum of Art—which I can’t wait to see in person!
To protect the art and encourage visitors to see the works in person, photography was not allowed. Fortunately, my mom and I had the museum to ourselves, allowing us to spend at least forty-five minutes “sitting with the paintings.” We were able to truly take in the vibrant colors of the Impressionist works and the cubist puzzle of Picasso. I’ve found a work can truly come alive and reveal its stories if you can study a painting for a few minutes, surveying its details and simply listening to what it has to say.
While the Robertson collection was a major draw, the hidden surprise of our visit was an incredibly impactful exhibition about a Depression-era African American neighborhood called Bostian Alley. During the Great Depression, residents of the “Alley” were photographed by Alex and Margaret Smoot.
The black-and-white photographs immediately pierced my soul. In spite of living in a low-income neighborhood during the depths of the Great Depression, I didn’t see sadness in these images—I saw genuine hope. This hope wasn’t fabricated by the photographer; it radiated from the true, simple happiness that comes from a close-knit community, the fun of a summer day, or hearing a great song. It was a powerful reminder to not get caught up in the frustrations of the day, but to look for the small joys and to keep moving even when you feel stuck.
In recent years, a Cary NC-based artist, Maria Bennett Hock, was so moved by the photos that she decided to turn them into masterful paintings. The exhibition pairs the original Smoot photographs with Hock’s beautiful artwork, and a local resident narrates stories from Bostian Alley as you walk through the space. It’s a wonderful way to honor the community’s legacy and bring their history to life. Learn more about this exhibit here
With our minds buzzing from the art and history at the museum, my mom and I set out to explore the rest of downtown Salisbury on foot. Our first stop was the magnificent Salisbury Train Depot, a true railway gem of North Carolina. It’s still an active Amtrak station and a hub of activity, surrounded by great restaurants and shops—making it a perfect destination for a day trip from Raleigh.
Next, we delved into more history at the Rowan Museum, housed in the historic 1854 Courthouse. This museum is a treasure trove, telling Salisbury’s story from its ancient Native American roots to its critical roles in the Revolutionary and Civil Wars. I was especially intrigued to see a brick from Andrew Jackson’s law office, a personal artifact from his time studying in Salisbury in 1784-1787 before he moved to Tennessee. The Rowan Museum also owns and operates several historic buildings in Rowan County including the Old Stone House and The China Grove Roller Mill.
Downtown Salisbury itself is a delight, with a fantastic mix of local shops, great restaurants, and charming green spaces. After about two hours of walking, we hopped in the car to drive through some of Salisbury’s historic neighborhoods, including the area around Livingstone College, the historic African American school that continues to be a cornerstone of the community.
Our final stop was a quick drive to The Old Stone House, one of the oldest homes in the area. This impressive stone house played a part in the famous 1781 “Race to the Dan,” when both General Greene and General Cornwallis marched through the area. We weren’t able to go inside, but walking the grounds and admiring the exterior was a great way to end our historical tour.
Get to Know The Old Stone House:
Built in 1766 by Michael Braun, a German immigrant, The Old Stone House is the oldest in Rowan County and one of the oldest in the Carolina Piedmont region. Braun, who traveled down the Great Wagon Road from Pennsylvania, was a prominent patriot who supported the Revolution by guarding suspected loyalists and selling supplies to troops on credit. He also served as a Justice of the Peace.
During the American Revolution, the home served as a temporary campsite for General Cornwallis’s troops. After remaining in the Braun family until 1911, it was saved from demolition and is now a museum managed by the Rowan Museum. Several historical events, including a Revolutionary War reenactment and Germanfest, take place here throughout the year.
Contact the Rowan Museum to plan your visit
Ready to Plan Your Adventure to Salisbury here are some fun and interesting things to:
History Trails in Salisbury
- Visit The Rowan History Museum
- Take a Historic Trolley Tour
- Tour the Old Stone House
- Tour Dr. Josephus Hall House: Built in 1820 as a Female Academy before being purchased by Dr. Hall in 1859, this beautiful home tells a history of American’s burgeoning years in the 1820s to the terror of the Civil War and it’s resilience in the aftermath. Dr. Hall was a doctor at the Confederate Prison in Salisbury. The home has a desk that was once used by Andrew Jackson and original furnishings from the Hall family as well.
- Visit the National Cemetery and Confederate Prison Site – a somber experience, where you can pay respects and say a prayer for the 11,000 Confederate and Union dead buried here
- Follow the African American Heritage Trail. This self-guided tour allows you to connect with the important African American history throughout Salisbury and Rowan County including Livingstone College.
- Follow the Salisbury Heritage Trail: A perfect way to see Historic Salisbury at your own pace. This self-guided walking tour provides a personal glimpse into the history and architecture of Downtown Salisbury and the stately homes of the West Square District. The brochures for the self-guided tour can be picked up at the Rowan County Visitors Center, located at 204 E. Innes St., Salisbury, NC 28144.
- Visit the Historic Passenger Rail Depot: Built in the Spanish Mission style in 1908 from designs by architect Frank P. Milburn, the Salisbury Railway Passenger Station was a mainline station between Washington D.C. and Atlanta, GA and served as one of the region’s major thoroughfares. Today it has been beautifully restored and acts as the terminal for Amtrak.
Fun for the Family:
Bell Tower Green Beautiful city park in heart of downtown
Dunn’s Mountain Park 83 acre park, site where they quarried the pinkish Salisbury granite
Dan Nicholas Park: Dan Nicholas Park is home to a campground, lake, carousel, train, gem mine, aquarium and nature center, animal habitats, and more.
Farmers Market: Check out the amazing Salisbury/Rowan Farmers Market for the freshest NC produce and goods
Arts and Entertainment:
Destination Coffee:
Mean Mug: A wonderful local coffee shop with handcrafted syrups too
MacTabby Cat Cafe – The Purrfect Place to get coffee and help cats
KocoJava Hand roasted coffee in the heart of Salisbury
Southern Sweetees Popular local bakery
Breweries and Vineyards:
Salisbury Wine Shop – amazing wine shop in downtown Salisbury
Great Restaurants:
La Cava Italian: Delicious Italian food in a gorgeous setting. The restaurant is in an old church building!
Carpe Vinum 121: An extensive wine & spirits selection and the highest quality charcuterie, seafood, and dry-aged prime beef, served in an elegant French Bistro-inspired .
Ivans: Seafood and Steak Restaurant
City Tavern – Great spot for drinks and burger with fries
Water’s Edge Scenic restaurant on nearby High Rock Lake
Hendrix BBQ – Vinegar based NC BBQ
Where to Stay in Salisbury:
I stayed at the Comfort Inn (it was clean and convenient). Two local bed and breakfasts locals recommend are:
Across the Pond Bed and Breakfast
Turn of the Century Bed and Breakfast
Salisbury/Rowan County Visitor Resources:
I hope you enjoyed this introduction to Salisbury! Don’t forget to subscribe for the latest American Nomad Adventures.
Hi, I’m Adele Lassiter, the travel enthusiast behind American Nomad Traveler. This is where I share my love for history, cool museums, art, and travel tips. When I’m not writing, I’m a singer-songwriter with a passion for Americana music. You can find my new album here: adelelassiter.bandcamp.com
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