In this edition of American Nomad we’ll continue our time traveling adventures through Nashville’s history.
In our last post we spent a jam-packed day in downtown Nashville learning about the city’s founding to the Civil War and beyond at the Tennessee State Museum, State Capitol and Fort Nashborough.
In today’s journey we have a flexible pick and choose itinerary, where I’m going to provide a list of my must-see historical homes in Nashville. You can arrange your schedule to visit two of these a day, depending on how long you want to soak in the history and sites at each location.
Must-See Nashville Historic Homes:
Travelers Rest: A Site Steeped in Ancient History
Travellers Rest: One of the oldest homes in Nashville, Travellers Rest is the perfect place to start your Nashville Historic Homes adventure.
Travellers Rest boasts an ancient past, with evidence suggesting the area was inhabited as early as 1270 AD by prehistoric Native Americans during what archaeologists call the Mississippian period. We touched on this fascinating era during our visit to the Tennessee State History Museum, which features a wonderful exhibit on Tennessee’s Native American cultures.
The Mississippian culture was known for its extensive trading networks across the Southeast and Midwest, particularly along the Mississippi Delta. They were significant mound builders, constructing large cities, such as the impressive site at Cahokia, Illinois.
In 1805, local Dr. Rush Nutt documented a prehistoric Native American mound site located precisely near the present-day Traveller’s Rest. This mound and associated site spanned an impressive 10-12. While time and development have unfortunately obscured its exact boundaries, archaeology continues to uncover vital clues, helping us connect with this deep past. Source
The first permanent white settlers began moving into Tennessee in the 1760s to early 1800s. Fort Nashborough was established in 1779 and officially incorporated as the city of Nashville in 1806.
Travellers Rest was built in 1799 by influential politician and Judge John Overton (1766-1833). Overton was not only an advisor and close friend to Andrew Jackson, but he also served as a judge at the Superior Court of Tennessee and later co-founded the city of Memphis.
Interestingly, Overton initially named his property Golgotha after discovering a large number of prehistoric skulls there. These were later identified as remnants of the Mississippian village site you can learn about today. He eventually changed the name to Travellers Rest, a reflection of the peace and solace the home offered him after the arduous journeys he undertook as a circuit judge. John Overton died in the home in 1833.
Plan your visit: I recommend blocking out a few hours for your visit at Traveller’s Rest. House tours include a guided house tour and access to Travellers Rest’s two Award Winning Exhibits. Multiple themed ground tours are available. You can purchase your tickets in advance. As always I recommend calling in advance to verify when the hours (in case of special events, etc…) Official Travellers Rest website
Andrew Jackson’s Hermitage: A Presidential Must-See
Though technically about thirty minutes east of Nashville, Andrew Jackson’s Hermitage is an absolute must-see historic home. Jackson resided on this property from 1804 until his death in 1845.
Born in the Waxhaws region near the North Carolina-South Carolina border, Jackson was a self-taught lawyer before he moved to Tennessee and purchased The Hermitage. He quickly rose to national prominence as a General in the War of 1812. His strategic brilliance at the Battle of New Orleans is still considered one of the greatest American military victories. Ironically, neither Jackson nor his opponents knew the war had technically ended weeks prior due to the slow pace of communication. Nevertheless, the resounding victory at New Orleans and Jackson’s courage truly united Americans and ignited a powerful sense of national pride.
Andrew Jackson: A Complex Legacy
Jackson eventually entered politics, championing the rights of the ‘Common Man.’ Despite becoming a wealthy planter with significant stature, he never forgot his humble roots. He firmly believed that government leadership should extend beyond wealthy elites to include farmers, merchants, and hardworking Americans. His presidential campaign, centered on the ‘common man,’ marked a pivotal moment, demonstrating that a president could emerge from a frontier state.
*Did you know? During The Revolutionary War, while living in the Carolina Waxhaws, British officers entered his home and threatened young Andrew and his family. This no doubt left a mark on him and his call to military service. I recommend the book Partisans and Redcoats, which details this part of his life and the War for the South in the American Revolution.
However, while Jackson advocated for the common man, his policies were not without profound controversy. Most notably was his decision to forcibly remove the Cherokee from their native lands in North Carolina and Tennessee, compelling them to walk over 1200 miles to Oklahoma. This tragic forced migration, known as the Trail of Tears, resulted in the deaths of thousands. His fellow Tennessean, Davy Crockett, vehemently opposed Jackson’s treatment of Native Americans and never forgave his former friend for the atrocities of the Trail of Tears.
What surprised me during the house tour, which thoroughly examines all facets of Jackson’s life, is the profound extent to which he was a man of contradiction – simultaneously full of integrity yet a slave owner and the architect of immense suffering for Native Americans. Yet, at other times, Jackson demonstrated immense mercy and care for Native Americans, even adopting an orphaned Creek boy as his son and raising him with love and utmost care. The more you study Jackson, the more apparent it becomes that human history, and humanity itself, is rarely black and white. He was deeply flawed, yet despite the horrendous actions of the Trail of Tears, he was also a man who fought fiercely for the underdog.
The Hermitage Museum excels at paying homage to President Jackson, affectionately nicknamed “Old Hickory,” without excusing his flaws. Instead, it illuminates all aspects of his life and character, providing a comprehensive and challenging portrait.
I recommend the following resources to learn more about Andrew Jackson’s life and presidency:
Andrew Jackson – An American Lion by Jon Meacham
Bio from White House Historical Association
The House and Property:
From an architectural standpoint, it is one of the most beautiful Greek Revival homes I have visited, with the interior well preserved considering the ravages of nearly two centuries since its completion. The architectural highlight of the home for me is the beautiful entry hall that has the original block-printed wallpaper by Joseph Dufour et Cie of Paris, which depicts scenes from Telemachus’ visit to the island of Calypso. The wallpaper looks brand new and it is a rarity to see such high quality wallpaper still intact, let alone in such pristine condition after the elements of time (humidity, storms, war…).
This entry hall was where guests in the 1830s were first greeted by Hannah, an enslaved woman who served as the Jackson’s head of the household. The museum does a great job telling the stories of all residents who lived and worked at The Hermitage throughout the tour.
Each of the rooms are beautifully appointed and are decorated with both original family pieces as well as authentic reproductions to show you how The Jacksons and their staff lived on the property during different eras of his life.
A favorite room of mine is The Front Parlor is splendidly decorated in the Greek Revival style with large red curtains, chandelier and is filled with personal mementos from Jackson’s life, travels and gifts from his friends. He loved to use this room to entertain his guests with stories from his military career. Jackson earned the nickname ‘Old Hickory’ from his troops during the War of 1812 because of his toughness and endurance similar to the strength of an old hickory tree. Throughout Nashville you’ll see dozens, if not hundreds, of places and streets named ‘Old Hickory’ after Jackson.
When I’m in a historic home, I always find myself imagining what it would be like to be in the room with the people who once lived there. If these walls could talk, what stories would they tell?
In the Hermitage, this sense of connection is especially strong. Must-see rooms include the sumptuous dining room, complete with its exquisite silver service and China arranged on an antique table, all set against a stunning deep green teal wall color that’s truly captivating. The Jackson family’s bedrooms—those used by Mr. and Mrs. Jackson, as well as their children and other family members—are each remarkably designed. They strike a perfect balance of graciousness and elegance, without ever feeling overly pompous, truly befitting Jackson’s nickname, “President of the People.”
Jackson deeply loved his wife Rachel, and they cared deeply for one another. Rachel Jackson (née Donelson) was born near the Banister River in Pittsylvania County Virginia in 1767. Her father was Colonel John Donelson, co-founder of Nashville.
Prior to her marriage to Jackson, Rachel was married to Lewis Robards in Nashville. The marriage did not work out and Robards told her he’d secured the couple a divorce. In 1791, she eloped with Andrew Jackson, believing she was divorced, only to find out that she was still married. The divorce was finalized with Robards shortly after her marriage to Jackson and they remarried in 1794. John Quincy Adams supporters used this gossip to smear Jackson during his 1828 campaign and bashed Rachel in the national media.
Rachel was a deeply religious and kind person and the publicity hurt her. Jackson believed that the smear campaign led to anxiety that caused her early death and blamed his political enemies.
You can feel the spirit of his love for Rachel still as you meander the property and learn about their relationship. They were unable to have children of their own, so they adopted as many as three dozen wards, who raised them as their own including Rachel’s nephews Andrew Jackson Jr and his cousin Andrew Jackson Donelson. On select days you can tour Andrew Jackson Donelson’s beautiful home Tulip Grove on the Hermitage grounds as well. This home was designed by Nashville architects William C. Hume and Joseph Reiff and is alongside the main Hermitage house, Tulip Grove, of the best surviving examples of Greek Revival architecture in Tennessee. Andrew Jackson Donelson attempted to follow in his father’s footsteps by running unsuccessfully for Vice President alongside Millard Fillmore in 1856.
The Enslaved Community and Their Vital Contributions
As you explore The Hermitage, be sure to dedicate time to learning about the enslaved community whose labor and lives were fundamental to its operation. Their contributions were immense, and their stories are integral to understanding the plantation’s history.
Among those whose stories are illuminated are Hannah and Aaron. Hannah, initially serving as Rachel Jackson’s personal companion, later became the head of the “house servants,” overseeing the domestic operations of The Hermitage. Aaron, a highly skilled blacksmith, held a crucial position on the plantation, essential for its daily functioning. Hannah and Aaron married around 1820 and together raised ten children—Byron, Rachel, Charlotte, Moses, Mary, Martha, Abraham, Ned, Margaret Ellen, and George Washington—all of whom remarkably lived to adulthood.
Their trust in Hannah and Aaron was profound. From 1858 to 1860, while Andrew Jackson, Jr. and his wife Sarah were in Mississippi, they fully entrusted the care and management of The Hermitage to Hannah and Aaron. Hannah’s connection to the family was particularly deep; she was present at the deaths of both Rachel and Andrew Jackson.
After the Civil War, Hannah and Aaron moved to Nashville and started their own life – this one marked by freedom. Learn more here.
Jackson Family Cemetery
You can also pay your respects to Jackson and his family at the family cemetery. Funny story. When I originally toured The Hermitage in college, it was on the anniversary of his death, June 8th. They’d decorated the home in mourning drapery and all the curators were wearing black and weaved this into the tour of how they would have mourned Jackson in the wake of his death. While in the cemetery paying our respects and meditating on his life, my friend and I heard a voice come from behind…
“Well hello there…”
We turned around and there was Andrew Jackson – the spitting image of him in his older age, even pale faced and ghostly in appearance. We freaked out. It was just a reenactor, but I’ll never forget seeing ‘Andrew Jackson’s ghost.’ He was a volunteer with a keen likeness to Jackson who would dress up and greet guests and answer questions about Jackson’s life.
Plan Your Visit: I recommend blocking off at least 3-4 hours for your visit to The Hermitage. They have a great gift shop and cafe on site too. Buy your tickets in advance here.
Belmont Mansion
The Belmont Mansion is right on the campus of my alma-mater Belmont University. The elaborate Italianate style antebellum house was built by Adelicia Acklen and her husband Joseph Acklen as their summer home. The once 180 acre estate once had extensive gardens and even a zoo. Belmont gets their moniker ‘Bruins’ from the fact Belmonte had black bear in the zoo!
Adelicia was a formidable lady and complicated lady. She was born in the north before moving to Tennessee where she married a wealthy slave trader named Isaac Franklin. They lived on a 2000 acre plantation in Gallatin TN. Isaac also had many plantations and slaves in Louisiana. In 1846, he died of a virus while in Louisiana. Adelicia inherited his entire property in Texas, Louisiana and Tennessee, valued then at $1 million as well as 750 enslaved people. With this inheritance she was one of the wealthiest women in the South at age 29.
Adelicia was independent and had a business savvy that enabled her to run the plantations. When she met and married her second husband, Col. Joseph Alexander Smith Acklen, in 1849, she defied the standard practice of the time to cede all property and land to your husband, insisting instead they sign a prenuptial agreement to ensure her assets remained her property. This was very progressive at the time (although we can see the deplorable fact much of the wealth came from enslaved labor).
In 1853, Adelicia and Joseph built a resplendent summer home on the then outskirts of Nashville It was originally named “Belle Monte” or Beautiful Mountain before being shortened to Belmont. The mansion was originally 20,000 square feet and had a large greenhouse, beautiful gardens, bowling alley and a zoo. At the time, Nashville did not have a park, so Adelicia and Joseph opened the gardens and zoo to the public.
Adelicia’s Wartime Resolve and Post-War Life
After Nashville fell to the Union in February 1862, Adelicia quickly realized her valuable cotton crops in Louisiana were at risk. She sent her husband to their Angola plantation in West Feliciana Parish to secure the large cotton harvest and get it to market. The Confederacy was threatening to burn it to keep it from Union hands. Tragically, he died before he could act, leaving Adelicia to manage the formidable task herself.
What followed was a remarkable display of determination. In Louisiana, Adelicia directly negotiated with both Union and Confederate forces to ensure her cotton could be safely delivered to England. This episode truly evokes the spirit of a “Scarlett O’Hara moment,” where she would deal with anyone to save her “Tara.”
During Nashville’s capture that same year, Union officers occupied Belmont, but Adelicia’s charm and shrewd negotiating skills ensured her home remained undamaged, even as over 13,000 Union troops camped on her gardens and grounds.
Belmont’s Transformation: From School for Young Women to Leading University
After Adelicia’s death, Belmont embarked on a new chapter. On September 4, 1890, the estate was converted into a girls’ school, Belmont College for Young Women. This institution later merged with Ward Seminary for Young Women in 1913, forming the first women’s junior college in the South accredited by The Southern Association of Colleges and Schools (SACS). It quickly became a premier learning institution for young ladies, boasting notable alumnae like Clara Boothe Luce and Minnie Pearl.
In the 1950s, the college was sold and eventually evolved into Belmont University, which is now recognized as one of the world’s leading schools for Music Business and Music Performance. Its impressive list of alumni includes stars like Trisha Yearwood and Lee Ann Womack, along with many of the hit songwriters whose work you likely hear on your Spotify playlist.
Many of the historic tours are curated by Belmont students, who walk you through the history of the mansion from the antebellum era to Civil War to emergence of the college to today. Belmont continues to maintain the garden inspired grounds of Adelica Acklen.
After your mansion tour, take some time to walk through the beautiful Belmont University campus. It’s a serene environment, and you can grab a coffee at Bongo Java, one of my favorite local coffee shops. For those interested in architecture, a drive through the surrounding neighborhood, especially along Belmont Boulevard, reveals many charming early 20th-century homes, each with tons of character.
Plan your visit here: Official Website
Belle Meade Plantation:
Spread across thirty rolling acres, Belle Meade offers a serene escape from the bustle of Nashville traffic, transporting you directly to the antebellum South. This must-see historic home vividly illustrates life in that era and traces the rise of a family from frontier farmers to the operators of a major working plantation. The historic farm was first settled in 1807 by John Harding, who acquired a cabin and 250 acres on this plot not far from the Natchez Trace. The Natchez Trace, now a historic and scenic byway beginning just a few miles south of Belle Meade, was once a crucial thoroughfare for travel and trade—a fascinating subject we’ll explore in a future post.
Today, visitors are invited to explore the mansion’s rich history through a guided tour, and then complete their experience with a delicious meal and tasting at Belle Meade’s on-site restaurants and winery.
The Evolution of Belle Meade Mansion – Architecture
Belle Meade’s Greek Revival Architecture is elegant and refined. It is hard not to pause and contemplate the architectural charm of this antebellum home.
In the 1820s, John Harding commissioned the original Belle Meade mansion. This first structure was a red brick Federal-style house, strategically built on a small hill overlooking Richland Creek. Its front, or “entrance façade,” featured a two-story, five-bay central block set on a limestone foundation, flanked by symmetrical one-story wings. Chimneys rose on either side of the central block and each of the connecting wings.
In 1839, John Harding’s son, William Giles Harding, took over the management of Belle Meade as his father developed another farm in Arkansas. William G. Harding significantly expanded the estate, acquiring more land to focus on breeding and raising high-quality livestock. Initially emphasizing Thoroughbred horses, he later diversified, adding cattle, sheep, and other breeds. He eventually increased the property to 5,400 acres (2,200 ha).
A major transformation of the mansion occurred in 1853, when William G. Harding had it altered and enlarged in the Greek-Revival style. To achieve this new look, stucco was applied over the original red bricks. A grand two-story veranda was added to the central block, distinguished by six solid limestone pillars. These massive Doric-order columns were quarried directly on the Belle Meade property and topped with a solid limestone pediment entablature. Attached to the main house via a two-level breezeway was a two-story kitchen extension. This common design kept the heat from the kitchen away from the living areas. Over the 20th century, successive families living at Belle Meade enclosed this breezeway. The estate continued to grow with the addition of a Dairy, Carriage House, and Stable throughout the 1880s and 1890s. Finally, William G. Harding commissioned a mausoleum in 1839 for the interment of family members, ensuring their lasting presence on the property.
Belle Meade’s Enduring Legacy in Thoroughbred Racing
Belle Meade’s influence on American Thoroughbred racing is profound. In the 19th century, Tennessee emerged as a vital center for this industry, serving as a proud Southern extension of Kentucky’s premier horse breeding. The Harding and Jackson families capitalized on this, transforming Belle Meade into a preeminent stud farm and nursery for the American Thoroughbred.
The distinctive Belle Meade racing silks (the uniform a jockey wears in a horse race) were first registered in 1823. Remarkably, the Harding family’s silks remained active until the 1980s, making them one of the longest-running sets of racing colors in the country, even after the farm was sold in 1904.
Following the Civil War, Belle Meade Farm solidified its national reputation for breeding top-tier Thoroughbred racing stock. Its celebrated stallions included Bonnie Scotland and the renowned Iroquois.
Planning your Visit:
Today Belle Meade Plantation not only carries on the historic legacy of this beautiful antebellum mansion and the people who lived and worked here, through historical tours and exhibits…the plantation is creating a new legacy of community in the heart of the Belle Meade grounds with a winery and farm to table food options. They also continue to maintain horses so guests can have a better understanding of the importance of horse racing at Belle Meade. One of Nashville’s most popular horse races is the annual Iroquois Steeplechase at Percy Warner Park, which used to be on the grounds of Belle Meade Plantation. This race is named after famed Belle Meade resident – Iroquois.
I recommend starting with the house tour and then participating in one of the other interesting tours on site – like the Civil War Tour or Horse focused tours. You can then enjoy a delicious lunch on site and enjoy hand crafted bourbon and Belle Meade wines. They also have a delicious ice cream shop.
For more information check out their website here.
Next Time on American Nomad Traveler, we’re taking the scenic route down The Natchez Trace Parkway to Franklin where we’ll learn about it’s Civil War past.
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Meet Adele Lassiter, the travel enthusiast behind American Nomad Traveler. This blog is where she shares her love for history, cool museums, art, and travel tips. And when she’s not writing, Adele is also a talented singer-songwriter with a passion for Americana music. Her new album is available here: adelelassiter.bandcamp.com
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