In today’s American Nomad Adventures – we’re continuing our travels in Nashville TN. In our last post we spent three days getting into the rhythm of Nashville music sites from Country Music Hall of Fame to iconic venues like The Ryman, Grand Ole Opry, Bluebird Cafe and more.
In our next series of posts, we’re going to travel through Nashville’s History from the early years of Tennessee Statehood to Jackson’s Presidency to The Civil War and beyond.
As a history buff who spent many weekends traversing Middle Tennessee visiting the region’s historical sites, I still discover something new on each trip back to Nashville. From its Native American roots to the present day, this region has long been a crossroads of civilization and truly is a living history.
While you might not be able to see all of Nashville’s historic sites in one trip, that’s just an excuse to return again for another fun trip in the future.
Today we’ll focus on historical sites in Downtown Nashville before discovering other historical haunts in the area.
Downtown History Adventures: For anyone wanting to delve into Nashville’s rich past, I recommend starting your journey at The Tennessee State Museum of History. Situated near Bicentennial Plaza, not far from the state capitol building, this state-of-the-art museum provides a comprehensive overview of Tennessee history. Best of all, admission is free, and they offer curated tours on certain days. The museum does a particularly commendable job of illuminating Nashville’s early Native American heritage, from the ancient Mississippian cultures – the mound builders who inhabited and traded here – to the Cherokee and other tribes who called this area home at the time of European settlement.
The exhibit has several important Native American artifacts on display that help you to connect with the importance of these peoples and their lives in Middle Tennessee.
The next portion of the museum tells the story of the frontier settlers who first migrated to Tennessee in the 1760s looking for land and a brighter future. We visited Tennessee’s two oldest towns, Jonesborough and Greeneville in recent American Nomad posts.
During The Revolutionary War, militia from what we now know as East Tennessee (it was North Carolina at the time), moved ‘over the mountains’ to help fight against the British during the important Battle of King’s Mountain in South Carolina near the NC border. The heroics of the Overmountain Men like John Sevier (who the city of Sevierville TN is named after) helped the United States win the war, by forcing Cornwallis on a path that would eventually lead to Yorktown. If you are interested in learning more about The Revolutionary War – subscribe for our ongoing America 250: Liberty Trails blog, which will feature historical articles about the war and travel itineraries to Revolutionary Places.
After the war ended in 1783, many settlers on the frontier felt abandoned by the state government of North Carolina. Until 1796, Tennessee was part of North Carolina, but given the remote location with the mountains it became difficult for the state to handle the western region. This was a big issue for settlers because they lacked proper law enforcement, courts and other necessary legal help due to citizens.
In 1784, when NC basically gave East Tennessee to the Federal Government, the people were outraged. While in the modern era our federal infrastructure could manage the territory, but in 1784 the federal government had no real power. The federal government was bound by The Articles of Confederation, which was a massive failure because the federal government couldn’t manage currency, interstate commerce, or tax. The frontier citizens were basically in limbo.
As we learned in our blogs about Jonesborough and Greeneville, the frontier citizens were adamant that their rights be protected and believed they deserved statehood and the ability to govern themselves as an individual state, not bound to North Carolina or as a forgotten territory under the federal government.
In 1784, delegates met in Jonesborough to create the State of Franklin, electing Revolutionary War hero John Sevier as the first governor. The first capital of Franklin was in a log house in Greeneville TN. The delegates then petitioned Congress for their rights to be an independent state. This petition sadly failed, but eventually the area was incorporated into the newly formed state of Tennessee in 1796.
The museum then takes you on a journey from Tennessee frontier life as settlers like Davy Crockett’s family and Andrew Johnson, and Andrew Jackson moved into Tennessee.
What is interesting about Tennessee is it truly shows the growth of America as a government that was for the people and by the people. While women and sadly African minorities could not vote. In the early Federalist years of American government from 1789 to 1830, you begin to see not only elites running for office, but common men who often came from poverty, fought in the American Revolution or War of 1812 for their nation and through ingenuity, hard work and focus on community were able to run and be elected for office.
Starting in the late 1820s through 1870, Tennessee produced three Presidents that migrated to the state in hope of opportunity, found success and rose to the highest office in the land. Abraham Lincoln was born only a few hours from Nashville in a log cabin (a great day trip if you want to explore the greater region) – showing this dynamic of layers of American culture and what it means to be an American.
Tennessee’s access to a variety of rivers and ample farmland made it an important center for industry and agriculture. Including many plantation homes. There was a divide with the state between the wealthy plantation owners and the common industrial workers and tenant farmers.
While Tennessee was a Confederate State during The Civil War, it was interesting to learn in the museum that Tennessee and particularly Nashville was deeply divided between Union and Confederate. Families were fighting against each other and many in Nashville, who had trading ties to the Ohio River Valley through their access on The Cumberland River were staunchly opposed to the War.
One such Tennessean in opposition was a tailor turned politician from Greeneville TN named Andrew Johnson. He stood for The Union even when Tennessee joined the Confederacy and continued to serve in Congress during the war (the only southern state representative to do so). When the Union took over Nashville in 1862 Battle of Nashville, Andrew Johnson became the state’s military governor until he became Vice President under Lincoln, and later president after Lincoln’s tragic assassination in 1865.Â
The museum doesn’t try to sugarcoat the history, providing detailed accounts from both sides, as well as focusing on African American voices. It was a hard exhibit to tour because the devastation and loss of human life on both sides, especially in Tennessee was horrendous. However it is an important history and the museum does an excellent job in interpreting Nashville and Tennessee’s role in The Civil War.
Perhaps one of the more interesting exhibits for me was focused on World War II and Tennessee’s involvement in helping fight against The Nazis. You can learn about how The Oak Ridge Facility near Knoxville was part of creating the nuclear bomb. You can also hear stories of men and women who contributed to the fight both on the homefront and abroad.
I recommend blocking off at least two hours for the museum.
After finishing up your tour and checking out the awesome ‘made in Tennessee’ gift shop…you can walk next door to The Nashville’s Farmers Market which has a wide variety of local vendors, fresh fruits and vegetables and places to eat. I recommend grabbing lunch here before our next stop…The Tennessee State Capitol Building.
Tennessee State Capitol Building
In my humble opinion the Tennessee State Capitol is one of the prettiest in the United States. Its prominent location on a hill, 200 feet above the Cumberland River, still stands like a guardian over the city. It is one of the oldest state capitol buildings in the United States and one of only twelve that does not have a domed roof!
It features limestone construction and a lantern inspired by the Choragic Monument of Lysicrates in Athens.
- Plan your visit here The capitol has guided tours and a variety of self-guided exhibitions as well.
From the Capitol Steps you can see some of the best views of the city including the grassy Bicentennial Mall (near the History Museum) below.
Nashville was one of four early capitals of Tennessee before becoming the final capital in 1843. With the state growing in size and proudly the state of Jackson, Polk and the fight of the ‘Common Man,’ it was necessary to have a proper capitol building to reflect its growing prominence and as a testimonial foundation for a hope of a bright future.
Tennessee decided to position the capitol building on Landmark Hill as it would be able to be seen by ships passing by on The Cumberland River, and also provide a view of the surrounding area, which would later prove useful during The Civil War.
Renowned architect William Strickland, an architect from Philadelphia who helped rebuild the tower on Independence Hall as well as assist in building the Capitol Building in Washington, was commissioned to lead the effort. Samuel Morgan, the chairman of the Capitol Commission, was passionate about the project and gave all his energy towards its completion.
The design is modeled after a Greek Temple from Athens, the seat of ancient democracy. It features limestone construction and a lantern inspired by the Choragic Monument of Lysicrates in Athens.
Much of the limestone was quarried near Charlotte Pike in Nashville and built with local, immigrant (Scots-Irish) and slave labor.
If you take a Nashville History Tour, you’ll learn about the infamous feud of Strickland and Morgan who clashed about the building designs, delays and typical construction woes on many occasions. While many believe they didn’t get along, this arguing is a reflection of their equal passion for the good of the project and in spite of the arguing they respected one another.
Legend has it that at night you can still hear them arguing on the capitol grounds. I’ve been by the capitol at night and have never heard the arguing, but it is a cool story. Both men are buried in the building.
William Strickland died in 1854, prior to the completion of the capital. His son took over for a time before being fired and it was finally completed in 1859, just a few years before the start of the darkest chapter in Nashville’s history – The Civil War.
While Tennessee was greatly divided between pro-secession and pro-union camps, the governor at the time, Isham Harris was a secessionist and under his leadership declared Tennessee’s withdrawal from The Union as a pro-confederate state. In 1862, after the battle of Fort Donelson, about an hour from Nashville, Union Troops were able to take over Nashville without one bullet being shot.
Andrew Johnson became the military governor of Tennessee and ordered that a log stockade be built around the capitol building and earthworks with 14 cannons surrounding the capitol in case of Confederate Attack.
For the next two years, in addition to being the seat of government under Johnson, it also served as a military hospital following bloody battles like Stone’s River in Murfreesboro TN (about forty minutes south of Nashville)
In December 1864, only a few months before the end of the War, The Confederates attacked Nashville, in what would be the bloody Battle of Nashville. When you drive through Nashville today you will see markers throughout the city noting where the battle took place. Occasionally locals will be doing yard work or home renovations and find remnants from the battle, including remains of the dead, which is sad. Nashville truly epitomizes the civil war aspect of the fight, family member against family member and unbridled passions of the south that erupted in a terrible war.
Learn more about The Battle of Nashville here.
The Union won the battle and this defeat crippled the Confederate troops in Tennessee and helped set the stage for Confederate surrender in 1865 at Appomattox Courthouse (VA) and Bennett Place (Durham NC).
Fun fact: Even when the Confederacy was in charge of Nashville prior to 1862, a staunch unionist and former sea captain named William Driver kept his American Flag from his seafaring days and would raise it up. When the capitol was in the throes of the Battle of Nashville, he raised his flag up high on the capitol grounds as a show of unity for America and the importance of the union. People began to call it Old Glory. The flag is now part of the Smithsonian collections in D.C. Learn more here.
To close out your historical afternoon in downtown Nashville, I recommend a visit to where the city began – Fort Nashborough. This reconstructed historical site, located on the banks of the Cumberland River, not far from the honkytonks on Broadway, allows you to travel back to when Nashville was a frontier.
It was founded by James Robertson and a party of Wataugans (from present-day western NC) and named Fort Nashborough after American Revolutionary War hero Francis Nash. By 1806, with Tennessee now a state, Nashville was formally incorporated and eventually became the capital of Tennessee in 1843. It continues to serve as the capital today.
More information about Fort Nashborough click here.
Cap off your day with dinner at a historic Nashville restaurant…
I recommend two historic restaurant locations in the heart of downtown:
- The Hermitage Hotel: One of my favorite bars in Nashville. This historic and elegant bar and nearby restaurant has so many stories to tell. The Hermitage is a diamond star hotel in Nashville that was originally built in 1910 and frequented by many legislators and statesmen over the years. It was actually built on the site of an older antebellum home, so there is some additional history in the hotel about the original building and its inhabitants as well. The Hermitage played an important role in Women’s Suffrage in 1920, when Tennessee had a special convention to rally legislators to vote on the 19th amendment to give Women the Right to Vote. This was known as the War of the Roses as it was a contentious fight, but in the end, Tennessee’s ‘yes’ vote helped the amendment become law. Something we all need to thank Tennessee for. Official Website
- Merchants: Located on the corner of Broadway and 4th Avenue, this three-story building now serves up fine dining and bar food for hungry patrons. It stands as one of Nashville’s most historic buildings, dating back to 1872, when it briefly operated as a pharmacy before becoming the Merchants Hotel in 1892. The Merchants Hotel offered an affordable option for traveling salesmen, especially considering the famous Maxwell House Hotel was just two blocks away, offering a more formal and expensive experience. A traveling salesman could stay at Merchants for nearly a week for the cost of a single night at the Maxwell House. Merchants quickly became a popular stop for the early 20th-century road warrior, with rooms and hot meals each costing a mere 25 cents. Notably, Merchants was one of the first restaurants to offer lunch, a service that was immediately successful at the time. Reflecting its origins as a pharmacy, Merchants Hotel also operated a pharmacy to serve its guests and those in the downtown area. Adding to its legendary past, it’s said that infamous outlaws of the Wild West, including Wild Bill Hickok and Jesse James with his James-Younger Gang, frequented Merchants in its early days. Website
You can then catch a show at the Mother Church of Country Music and Birthplace of Bluegrass – The Ryman Auditorium.
There are many groups that offer walking and bus tours of downtown Nashville. These are awesome because you learn a lot of hidden history.
A few great historic tour options:
Historic Nashville – in partnership with the city of Nashville, they sponsor regular tours on a variety of topics from historical Nashville, Civil Rights and more.
Nashville’s Best Tours – Led by expert Nashville Historian that brings the history to life.
Grayline Tours – a fun way to city sites via tour bus!
Old Trolley Tours: Wonderful tour of major Nashville sites via Trolley. The expert guide will help you explore the city’s fascinating historic sites while on vacation.
Tours give you the hidden layers of Nashville’s past…For instance, did you know that there was once a famous hotel in Nashville called The Maxwell House? It was at this hotel that Theodore Roosevelt is said to have ordered a midnight coffee and when he finished his cup said ‘it was good to the last drop.’ So Maxwell Coffee actually started in Nashville.
On our next Historical Nashville Tour, we’ll visit spotlight older homes in the Nashville area before moving south to the neighboring city of Franklin TN
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Meet Adele Lassiter, the travel enthusiast behind American Nomad Traveler. This blog is where she shares her love for history, cool museums, art, and travel tips. And when she’s not writing, Adele is also a talented singer-songwriter with a passion for Americana music. Her new album is available here: adelelassiter.bandcamp.com
