On this American Nomad adventure we’re heading west from our last stop in Wytheville deeper into Virginia’s breathtaking Blue Ridge Mountains and the charming town of Abingdon Virginia.
Abingdon has easily become one of my favorite Virginia mountain getaways. Imagine breathtaking vistas unfolding before you from overlooks along the Blue Ridge Parkway, a charming downtown brimming with history whispering from its brick sidewalks, and a vibrant arts and cultural scene anchored by the renowned Barter Theatre. Whether you’re drawn to exhilarating outdoor adventures, browsing quirky shops and captivating art galleries, savoring delicious meals at local eateries, or stepping back in time at historical sites, Abingdon truly offers something to spark the interest of every traveler.
This trip I was able to spend two hours exploring Abingdon, going on a peaceful walk on The Virginia Creeper Trail, and meandering the downtown shops.
A Little History…
As a history buff I was delighted to discover the fascinating stories of Abingon’s past from the Native Americans to early settlers to the present day.
Abingdon’s early residents included various indigenous cultures like the Chisca and Xualae. By the 17th-century, the land was part of the homelands of The Cherokee Nation.
The earliest European settlers came to Abingdon circa 1748 with Thomas Walker of The Loyal Land Company, who along with his crew surveyed the area for future settlement.
Legend has it that in 1760, famed explorer Daniel Boone camped in Abingdon where he battled a wolf attack, and named the area Wolf’s Tract. While this is legend, Daniel Boone did pass through the area west towards his further exploration and settlement in Kentucky. The earliest recorded name of the site of Abingdon was Wolf’s Tract.
As I explored Abingdon I imagined myself in the area circa 1760 and the confluence of the beautiful mountains and unbridled nature, coupled by encounters with the active trading posts of the Cherokee.
For centuries Abingdon was the intersection of two great Indian trails which followed ancient animal migration trails through the mountains, making it a prime trading center for west and south trading posts.
After the French and Indian War, ended in 1763, and America was on the precipice of a War for Independence…many settlers were looking westward towards the mountains of Virginia and now Tennessee. Between 1765 and 1770, James Douglas, Andrew Colville, George Blackburn, Joseph Black, Samuel Briggs and James Piper settled near Abingdon purchasing lots from early surveyor Thomas Walker.
Many of the early settlers were Scots-Irish and by 1773 they had a large enough population to recruit Presbyterian minister Rev. Charles Cummings to the area. He became the first settled pastor west of the Allegheny Range in the Appalachian Mountains.
The town’s original grid was built on land donated by Walker, Black and Briggs, who encouraged settlement. It was known first as Wolf’s Tract then became Black’s Fort after 1774.
In 1774, Abingdon was part of Lord Dunmore’s War. Dunmore was the last Royal Governor of Virginia prior to the American Revolution. From May to October 1774, he and 800 militiamen fought for disputed land rights between a confederation of Ohio Country tribes, including the Shawnee and Mingo
The war stemmed from white settlers moving into lands that Virginia claimed through treaties but which the Shawnee and other tribes still used for hunting. The decisive Battle of Point Pleasant occurred on October 10, 1774, where the Virginia militia defeated the Shawnee forces under Cornstalk. The subsequent Treaty of Camp Charlotte, signed on October 19, 1774, compelled the Shawnee to recognize Virginia’s claim to the land south of the Ohio River and to allow settlers and travelers passage, effectively opening Kentucky for settlement.
In the midst of the conflict, local resident Joseph Black built Black’s Fort to protect local settlers from attacks from the Cherokee of Lower Towns tied to the fighting. This fort was a log stockade with a few log cabins inside, where settlers could take refuge in case of an attack.
Although Black’s Fort wasn’t involved in Lord Dunmore’s War in 1774, it became a crucial refuge for settlers in 1776 during the American Revolution, when Cherokee war leader Dragging Canoe and Chickamauga threatened the settlement. The Cherokee sided with The British during the American Revolution in hopes of maintaining their land rights and pushing colonists out.”
“The former settlement of Wolf’s Tract took on the name of Black’s Fort for several years before becoming Abingdon in 1778. While there are debates on the origins of the name Abingdon, it is said that it was named in honor of Martha Washington’s family’s ancestral home in Abingdon England. This connection, however, seems to be more of a widely held belief than a definitively proven fact, as specific details remain elusive. The town is now home to The Martha Washington Inn, which we’ll discuss in a moment, so Abingdon has a love for Martha and her service and American patriotism.
While the majority of the fighting during The American Revolution took place closer to the coast, Abingdon and other mountain frontier towns helped to win the war. In 1780, the British began their southern campaign in 1780, hoping that frontiersmen who were seen as mostly indifferent or loyal to the British cause, would rise up and help General Cornwallis win the South, thus closing the gap for American victory in the North. Unfortunately this campaign was deeply misguided. I won’t dive into all the details here, but British leader Banastre Tarlteon’s notorious violent aggression against citizens in the south and mountain regions only ignited a hornet’s nest, where men who were not focused on the war joined the effort to stop the British.
Outraged at the violation of their rights, men from places like Abingdon and southwestern Virginia to present-day eastern TN and western North Carolina formed a militia of Overmountain Men.
400 of the Overmountain Men first met in Abingdon at the Abingdon Muster Grounds under Colonel William Campbell in September 1780 en route to join other patriot militia from the mountains at Fort Watauga in Sycamore Shoals in present-day Tennessee, came together to defeat the British at King’s Mountain in October 1780, which snuffed out the hope of fully winning the south. These Overmountain Men helped turn the tide of the war and set in motion events that would eventually lead to Cornwallis’s surrender to George Washington’s troops at Yorktown. Learn more here.
Abingdon continued to grow and flourish prior to The Civil War, especially as a trading center on the ‘Great Road,’ a major artery for westward settlement. As the county seat of Washington County it was a hub of commerce and education, tied to agriculture and the growing trade along the Virginia and Tennessee Railroad.
Abingdon’s strategic location left it vulnerable to Confederate and Union skirmishes, during the Civil War, including Stoneman’s Raid.
A center of arts and culture:
Abingdon has long been a hub for the arts and has prided itself on education from early schools like The Martha Washington School for Women, which operated from 1860 to 1932. The campus was later converted into the five-star Martha Washington Inn, one of the most popular resort getaways in Virginia.
In the depths of the Great Depression, Abingdon sparked a light of hope with the creation of The Barter Theatre – The State Theatre of Virginia, in 1933. It continues to offer world-class theatre and is the longest-running professional equity theatre in the United States
Downtown Abingdon is lined with eclectic shops and local art galleries. Many artists have been lured to the region to paint the gorgeous Blue Ridge landscapes.
Abingdon is also home to a fantastic Art Museum.
Like Daniel Boone, you too can be an outdoor adventurer in Abingdon, which boasts quick access to endless miles of wilderness, hiking trails, state parks and the popular Virginia-Creeper Trail.
Fun things to do in Abingdon:
Abingdon is a place you can return to time and again. Each adventure I discover something new to explore from one of the local wineries, shops, hiking trails, music events…the list goes on. Here is a short list of MUST SEE Adventure Stops for your time in Abingdon.
Historical Haunts:
- Enjoy walking the steps of Daniel Boone to modern day amenities as you stroll through Downtown Abingdon’s historic twenty blocks of shopping, restaurants, historic inns, entertainment and more.
- Get Revolutionary with a stop at the Abingdon Muster Grounds where hundreds of Overmountain Men met before eventually making it to King’s Mountain (SC/NC border) for their 1780 victory over The British. This site is run by the NPS and has a great visitor center – Plan your visit here.
- Fields-Penn House: A beautiful antebellum home built in 1860 on the cusp of The Civil War. Tour this historic home and learn about life in Abingdon during The Civil War and beyond. Plan your visit here.
- Travel back to 1779 with a hearty and delicious meal at The Abingdon Tavern – this is the oldest building still standing in Abingdon and the coolest place for libations, good eats and conversation. https://abingdontavern.net/ This is the oldest bar in Virginia and 8th oldest in the United States!
- Say a prayer at the beautiful St. Thomas Episcopal Church…built in 1846, the interior features beautiful stained glass windows and inspiring art including icons by local artist Mary Miller (see photo above.)
Arts and Culture:
Catch a show at The Barter Theatre: Barter Theatre, in Abingdon, Virginia, opened on June 10, 1933. It is the longest-running professional Equity theatre in the United States. It continues to be considered one of the finest theatre companies in the United States with hundreds of performances each year from musicals to dramas to traveling acts. Many famous actors like Gregory Peck and Frances Fisher got their start here.
How did it become such a success in spite of opening in the midst of The Great Depression? Ingenuity of course – because all good actors know the show must go on even if the economy is struggling. Theatre and the arts keep spirits up…The Barter Theatre operated under an innovative concept in the 1930s, proclaiming “With vegetables you cannot sell, you can buy a good laugh.” The price of admission was 35 cents or an equivalent amount of produce. Four out of five theatregoers paid their way with vegetables, dairy products and livestock.
To the surprise of many, all the seats for the first show were filled. The concept of trading “ham for Hamlet” caught on quickly. At the end of the first season, the Barter Company cleared $4.35 in cash, two barrels of jelly, and a collective weight gain of over 300 pounds.
The Barter Theatre continues this tradition with at least one performance a year celebrating the Barter’s bartering history by accepting donations for Feeding America Southwest Virginia during Barter Days.
To buy your tickets for a show at the legendary Barter Theatre click here.
William King Museum of Art is a place where history, art, culture and community intersect. Housed in a beautiful brick building that once housed the Abingdon Male Academy, a school that opened in 1824 through a gift by Abingdon’s first multi-millionaire William King. The land for the school overlooked the historic Sinking Spring Cemetery, where King is buried. The school thrived until 1861 when it was closed during the Civil War. It served as a barracks and makeshift hospital for Confederate troops during the war. It was rebuilt in 1872 and reopened as a school until the early 1900s.
Today it is one of the premier museums of Appalachian art, hosting exhibitions of world fine art, material culture from Southwest Virginia and Northeast Tennessee, and contemporary art by regional artists. It continues to serve as an institution of scholarship and education for visitors and students who walk through its galleries, attend a lecture, or take a class. Plan your visit here.
Southwest Virginia Cultural Center and Marketplace: Gateway to learning and immersing yourself in the amazing music, crafts, outdoor recreation, food and local culture that makes the fabric of Southwestern Virginia so unique. The Southwest Virginia Cultural Center and Marketplace allows you to explore organizations like The Crooked Road, ‘Round the Mountain, SWVA Outdoors and local vendors. Listen to live music, explore local art and food and so much more. Official website
Outdoor Fun:
Virginia Creeper Trail: Abingdon is the northern terminus of the Virginia-Creeper Trail, a fun and scenic biking and hiking trail that follows 34.3 miles of old railroad access from Abingdon, south to Damascus and Mount Rogers (the highest point in VA). Sadly Hurricane Helene heavily devastated the trail, but you can still visit and walk/bike many miles near Abingdon. You can also volunteer/donate to help with rebuilding the trail on their website.
I enjoyed a forty minute walk on the trail before I headed back to my car due to the impending rainstorm. Here are a few of my pictures:
South Holston Lake: Just a 20 minute drive outside of Abingdon’s town limits, South Holston Lake stretches over miles of open water, surrounded by pristine mountain ridges. About 60% of the shoreline is bordered by the Cherokee National Forest, and much of the shoreline is undeveloped, making it one of the most scenic lakes in Virginia. (The 7580-acre reservoir straddles the VA/TN border.)
Regional State Parks and National Forests…Abingdon is surrounded by nature from hundreds of miles of trails to camping and river access making it a perfect base camp for outdoor enthusiasts. If you are just getting into exploring nature, paths like The Virginia Creeper Trail and area parks like Grayson Highlands (scenic drive) can be great starting options. Here are a few ideas for outdoor fun in the are:
Mt. Rogers National Recreation Area: Within a convenient forty-minute drive from Abingdon, the Mt. Rogers National Recreation Area unfolds as a natural wonderland, offering breathtaking scenery and a rich tapestry of wildlife and nature. At 5,729 feet, Mt. Rogers is the tallest peak in Virginia. My mom and I had a blast touring this area in 2019 and driving the backroads of the sixty mile Mt. Rogers Scenic Byway during the fall color season. In planning your visit, I recommend first checking on the national forest service website for any closures/openings and a full list of camping, hiking and fishing information. Area outfitters also offer tours, fishing expeditions into the Mt. Rogers area. (Riverfleet was recommended for fly-fishing) – for other suggestions click here.
Grayson Highlands State Park (1 hour south of Abingdon): Nestled in the shadow of two of Virginia’s tallest peaks, towering Whitetop Mountain and Mt. Rogers, Grayson Highlands is a jewel of the Virginia State Park system. The popular state park has a fantastic visitor center telling the geological, natural and human history of the region. Guests can stay overnight at area campgrounds, explore miles of hiking trails, including parts of The Appalachian Trail, leading to waterfalls and breathtaking overlooks. The park is also home to a herd of wild horses. Official Website
Natural Tunnel State Park: About an hour west of Abingdon you can explore the grandeur of this naturally formed 850 feet long stone tunnel that towers ten stories high. Famed attorney and politician William Jennings Bryan dubbed it as “the Eighth Wonder of the World” in the late 1800s. The park’s other scenic wonders include a wide chasm between steep stone walls surrounded by several chimney-like pinnacles. Facilities include two campgrounds, cabins, picnic areas, an amphitheater, a visitor center, a camp store and a gift shop. You’ll also find the Wilderness Road historic area and a chairlift to the tunnel floor.
While in the area, guests can also enjoy cave tours and canoe trips on the Clinch River. The Cove Ridge Center offers environmental education and overnight dorm accommodations. Not far is the Daniel Boone Wilderness Interpretive Center, which has a museum, library, conference room, gift shop and outdoor classroom. Various events, workshops and programs, which are listed under Natural Tunnel’s events, are held here. Plan your trip here
Channels Area Natural Preserve: Located only 45 miles from Abingdon, this state protected area spans over 721 acres. I recommend taking the three mile hike to the geologic site. It goes through on an old logging road, bringing you to the Great Channels of Virginia, impressive formations of 400-million-year-old sandstone outcroppings formed during the last ice age. The hike also includes views of the Clinch Mountain range, and the remains of a fire tower (not open to the public), as well as rare and imperiled plant species protected by the Virginia Department of Conservation and Recreation. Official website
Hungry Mother State Park: I mentioned this in our Wytheville post as well, but it bears repeating. This bucolic lakeside park near Marion TN, about thirty minutes east of Abingdon is the perfect place to relax for a day by the lake, take a hike and birdwatch. Website
Greater region:
Abingdon is a good place to stop if you are heading from NC to TN or even Kentucky. It is only about an hour from Roan Mountain State Park (TN/NC) and about two hours from the Asheville area. You can also head north on I-81 towards Roanoke, one of my favorite mountain towns in Virginia. Roanoke is right on The Blue Ridge Parkway and has an amazing art museum, science museum, zoo and so much more!
Where to Stay:
The Martha Washington Inn
This grand dame of Abingdon is a must stop of any historic hotel lover. The walls are steeped in history and tell stories from the burgeoning frontier town of Abingdon in the early 1830s to its time as a girls school, to the devastating effects of the Civil War and Great Depression. Today it is a beacon of hope, serving as a beautifully restored inn. Much of the architectural integrity from this landmark has been meticulously preserved for over 150 years. The original living room of the family that built it, The Prestons’, is now the main lobby of the hotel. Fun Fact – General Francis Preston was a famed hero from the War of 1812. His wife was Sarah Buchanan Preston, who he lived with in the residence with their nine children.
History meets Relaxation at the renowned Martha Washington Inn. This resort has been featured in top travel publications. The Inn, housed in the former Martha Washington school exudes character and refinement. Enjoy a Spa Day at the resort spa…enjoy five star dining before a show at The Barter Theatre. Whatever the occasion, The Martha welcomes you to experience their southern hospitality with each stay. It’s worth stretching your budget to stay here.
Creeper’s End Lodging: For those exploring The Virginia Creeper Trail, I definitely recommend checking out these quaint colonial cottages located right by the Virginia Creeper Trail terminus. Book your stay here.
A Tailor’s Lodging: Relax in this 1840 home in the heart of Abingdon. Book your stay here.
For more lodging ideas click here.
Foodies love Abingdon from farm to table menus, area vineyards and farmers markets. A few restaurants recommended by locals:
- The Tavern – we mentioned this earlier in the post, but how cool is it to dine in a nearly 250 year old tavern? Enjoy good food and spirits here.
- The Girl and the Raven – Housed in a historic building from 1886, this is one of the best breakfast and lunch spots in town. #destinationcoffee
- JJ’s – Locals highly recommend this fun and laid back sports bar
- The Peppermill – located in an historic home in downtown Abingdon, the menu features fresh to made order dishes including their signature Poogan’s Pasta with chicken and peppers.
- 128 Pecan: Local, quirky, fun little restaurant with simple good food and friendly professional service. Enjoy eating out without breaking the bank.
- Wolf’s Hill Coffee – Cool coffee shop near downtown #destination coffee
Don’t wait to book your scenic adventure in Abingdon now! I can’t wait to return and blog about more Southwest VA adventures in the coming months.
For more Abingdon Travel Resources check out their official website: Visit Abingdon
Next up we’re heading west for a few blog posts to Bristol – a mountain city just west of Abingdon that is partially in Virginia and partially in Tennessee.
Road Trip playlist for Abingdon: I was listening to John Denver and The Head and The Heart, along with my original song inspired by country backroads – Population One
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Meet Adele Lassiter, the travel enthusiast behind American Nomad Traveler. This blog is where she shares her love for history, cool museums, art, and travel tips. And when she’s not writing, Adele is also a talented singer-songwriter with a passion for Americana music. Her new album is available here: adelelassiter.bandcamp.com
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