Our Philadelphia exploration continues with a visit to the magnificent Barnes Foundation, an world-class institution dedicated to art and education, and home to a globally recognized collection of modern masterpieces. Founded by Dr. Albert C. Barnes in 1922, The Barnes’ invites visitors, referred to as ‘students,’ to engage in conversations with art and consider its impact beyond traditional museum experiences.
Who was Albert C. Barnes:
Dr. Barnes was born in Philadelphia in 1872 in the working-class neighborhood of Fishtown, and later grew up in the slum area known as “the Neck.” His father, John J. Barnes had served in the American Civil War in Company D of the 82nd Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry, where he unfortunately suffered an injury at The Battle of Cold Harbor, where he lost his arm. After the war, John Barnes received a disability pension of $8.00 a month and took a variety of jobs such as inspector, night watchman and a letter carrier.
His mother, Lydia, was a devout Methodist who often took her son to African American camp meetings and revival, which ignited Dr. Barnes’ passion for helping people of all races to have a chance to learn and appreciate art.
From a young age, Barnes showed his aptitude academically and was awarded a chance to attend the prestigious Central High School. He graduated at age 17, in 1889 with an A.B. degree. It was there he befriended William Glackens, who later became a famous Philadelphia painter in the Realist movement, who founded The Ashcan School of American Art. Glackens encouraged Barnes to collect art and help advise him on his first collecting efforts.
Albert Barnes excelled in school and earned his medical degree by age twenty. He quickly realized his calling was not as a bedside doctor, but a pharmacist. In 1899, Barnes partnered with German chemist Hermann Hille to develop Argyrol, a silver nitrate antiseptic used to treat eye infections and prevent infant blindness. Through this invention, Barnes made a literal fortune before he eventually sold the company in July 1929, by good fortune, just months before the stock market crash of July 1929.
Building His Collection:
In 1912, Barnes, with the help of his childhood friend William Glackens began purchasing modern paintings. Initially Barnes sent Glackens to Europe with (30,000) to purchase art in Paris from the best modernists, site unseen. While he trusted Glackens decisions, Barnes would take a more active role in his acquisition of art moving forward, specifically picking out pieces that caught his eye by artists like Renoir, Cezanne, Picasso, Van Gogh, Matisse and more.
Art and Education:
Dr. Barnes understood firsthand the value of education, and also the disparity in access to it based on class, gender, and race at the turn of the twentieth century. In defiance of the era’s prejudices, he employed women and African Americans, and supported them with good wages.
Barnes was inspired by the philosophy of his friend, John Dewey, who advocated for progressive, experiential learning where students learn by doing. Dewey believed that education was fundamental to democracy, as it improved society and empowered students to participate in “the living struggles and issues of the age. Dewey believed that democracy in itself was not only important in politics and the economy, but an ethical ideal and a way of life.
To empower his workers with education, he held art appreciation lessons at his factory. Each day, for two hours, production stopped as his workers discussed painting and philosophy (can I have this job – what a wonderful opportunity to infuse creativity and work together).
These factory teachings became so successful that Dr. Barnes decided to undertake a full-blown experiment in education. In 1922, he purchased a 12-acre arboretum in Merion, Pennsylvania and hired architect Paul Phillippe Cret to design a residence and gallery. Dr. Barnes, who amassed a significant art collection, wanted to share his interpretations and passion for art with others, leading him to seek a suitable location for a gallery and educational space.
The Barnes Foundation, became an educational institution that offered free art appreciation classes. With the help of his colleague Violette de Mazia, Barnes created a unique approach to learning based on ‘The Barnes Method.’ This method emphasized close looking, critical thinking and prolonged engagement with original works of art.
Part of this method emphasized an approach called The Plastics (and no, we don’t mean straws!). The term “plastic” refers to a substance that can be shaped or molded. While the creativity and interpretation of art are certainly pliable in this sense, The Plastics method focuses on four fundamental elements common across all artistic styles: line, color, light, and space. When you look at art through the lens of The Plastics, you can identify these shared elements and meditate on their use across different art movements. For example: The Museum’s painting by Venetian master Titian will look completely different from a Cubist Picasso, yet both artists utilize line, color, light, and space.
When visiting The Barnes Foundation today, teachers provide classes about The Barnes Method. This method helped me to step back from my gut prejudices when looking at a piece of art. While different artistic styles speak to each of us differently (I might love a cubist painting, while the person next to me finds it disjointed), using The Barnes Method helps you to look at each work with a fresh set of eyes. While it is helpful to have a background understanding of the artist’s intention behind the piece, this method steps outside of preconceived notions and looks to the form itself.
Art and Controversy:
The original Barnes Foundation was located in the bucolic town of Merion, around twenty-five minutes outside of Philadelphia. Dr. Barnes handpicked this location, precisely because it was outside of Philadelphia. Dr. Barnes felt the arts community in Philadelphia was elitist and he often butted heads with the art establishment.
It wasn’t until 2012 that the museum was formally moved from its original home in Merion to The Benjamin Franklin Parkway Arts District. This was an extremely controversial decision, as many argued it went completely against Dr. Barnes’ legacy and his direct wishes. A documentary called The Art of the Steal dives into all the drama that unfolded as The Barnes was moved from Merion to Philadelphia. I won’t go into all the sordid details of this art drama here, but suffice it to say that Dr. Barnes never wanted his collection housed outside of Merion.
That being said, the new museum in Philadelphia is almost an exact interior replica of the original museum. The art is hung exactly as Barnes hung it in Merion. For all the drama, and debates on whether they should have moved the collection, I will say the foundation has done an excellent job of replicating the experience and education focus at the new Barnes in Philadelphia.
To learn more about ‘Art and Controversy’ at The Barnes:
- How Albert Barnes Donor Intent was Ignored (article)
- The Art of The Steal Documentary (Must Watch)
- Art Held Hostage
- Outsmarting Barnes
The original Barnes Foundation building is now used by St. Joseph’s University to house their art collection. I hope to visit Merion on my next trip to the area. Learn more here.
The Collection:
Hands down, The Barnes Foundation is one of the best collections of art in the world. Each room features a who’s who of art from old masters like Giorgione and Titian to Impressionists like Monet and Renoir to modern art revolutionaries like Cezanne, Matisse, Picasso and more.
The collection was hand curated by Dr. Barnes and the objects were placed with his aesthetic eye, reflecting Barnes’ specific artistic sensibilities and his desire to create visual relationships between different works.
This approach to collecting and display is what makes the Barnes Foundation so distinctive and continues to be a significant aspect of its identity. It’s not just a collection of valuable artworks; it’s a carefully constructed environment reflecting one man’s profound engagement with art.
As I meandered through the galleries, taking in each work of art, I could feel chills running down my spine. The beauty of the art is transcendent. Each piece invites you into a visual journey. At first the colors, lines, and forms grab you, and the more you sit with a piece, the more you begin to learn its story. The small details in each work give hints about what the artist was thinking; the use of colors to create feelings of peace and confusion; the characters on the canvas that each speak to their reality in that moment…Art is something transformative. It can unite us, even if we take away different impressions from the same work of art.
Dr. Barnes’ favorite artist was Pierre-Auguste Renoir. The Barnes is home to more Renoir’s than any other collection in the world (181 in total). Interestingly enough, Barnes preferred works from Renoir’s later period, which are more fluid in form. For Albert Barnes, the superiority of Renoir’s late paintings lay in their constantly developing and highly instructive focus on form. He believed Renoir’s late work represented a deep and ongoing investigation into the most groundbreaking ways to express beauty and art.
The Barnes is also home to the largest collection of Cezanne’s in one museum, with 69 paintings including his iconic Card Players and Bathers. Cezanne is one of my favorite artists (I named my cat Cezanne as a tribute to the artist).
Matisse, another personal favorite of mine, fills the galleries. Matisse, who lived until the 1950s, was a friend of Dr. Barnes and even came to Philadelphia to The Barnes Foundation. During his stay in Philadelphia he painted (insert work here). I love Matisse’s exploration of color, shape, form and modern and traditional art…Matisse has been a big inspiration for my own work as a painter.
The Barnes has a significant collection of Picasso’s ranging across his various periods. As I was visiting the museum during a layoff, I resonated with the painting of a blue man. Luckily this work of art helped get me out of my depression. Art has a power to heal and touch the soul.
The Barnes is home to seven works by Van Gogh. Perhaps the most famous is The Postman which depicts Joseph Roulin, a postmaster in Arles who befriended Van Gogh during his time in the city.
Van Gogh painted twenty-six portraits of Roulin including this one at The Barnes.
While Modern Art from 1850 to 1950 makes up the majority of the collection, you’ll also be blown away with Masterworks by Giorgione, Titian and Rubens.
As a lover of Venetian art (Check out my Venetian Art Class on our sister blog Art Expeditions), the chance to see a Giorgione in person took my breath away. Giorgione was one of the finest painters Venice every produced, but he died at only thirty-three from the bubonic plague terrorizing Venice in the 1500s. Several of his works were completed by his friend and fellow-painter Titian. There are believed to only be thirty Giorgione’s remaining in the entire world. And while this particular work may have been a collaboration, it is still a fabulous painting on par with those in Venice’s Accademia.
It is interesting to note that the Old Masters works are dispersed among modern pieces, going back to the idea of ‘plastics’ and unifying traits across art. This actually forced me to step back and fully engage in the Old Masters and notice the light and depths in each work, while also thinking about what makes a work masterful. Is it the skill and beauty of the painting alone, or is it the message behind it? The innovation. I don’t have an answer, other than different forms of art can tug at our heart strings and ignite our imaginations in different ways.
I went full fan girl on this Titian, which showcases his masterful use of color, shadow and light.
Planning Your Trip:
I recommend purchasing your tickets in advance on The Barnes Foundation website. They do offer tours and classes depending on the day you are there. We spent about five hours at The Museum, including grabbing a quick snack in the basement cafe.
When you are at The Barnes, I recommend not getting too hung up on the fact that there are not informational plaques detailing the history of each work of art. You can see the artist name, but nothing about the background and history of the work. Just embrace the art and have a conversation with it. I recommend keeping a mini notepad or take photos (no flash) to remember works that spoke to you (or challenged you) and then you can research the painting online or speak to a curator to ask questions.
Note: I will be doing a series on art from The Barnes on our sister blog Art Expeditions in the coming weeks. I’ll post updates here as well.
Next time on American Nomad, we’ll be continuing our Philadelphia series with a list of must-see museums, don’t forget to subscribe to get the latest updates.
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American Nomad is written by travel enthusiast and art history buff Adele Lassiter. In addition to American Nomad she runs Art Expeditions (dedicated to art museums and art history). Adele is also a singer-songwriter, whose debut album ‘American Nomad’ (our blog soundtrack) is out now on all streaming services.
