In December, I was able to tour the magnificent Arthur Allen House, aka ‘Bacon’s Castle,’ which is located in Surry County Virginia, not far from the James River (across the river from Historic Jamestown). As a Colonial era history buff, I’ve always been fascinated by Bacon’s Castle. But my interest deepened a few years ago when I made a surprising discovery while researching my family history: I am a direct descendant of Arthur Allen, the original owner of this iconic estate (through my father’s grandmother’s side of the family).
Bacon’s Castle is run by Preservation Virginia and is open to the public, allowing visitors to travel through time to the early-Colonial era, Revolutionary War, Antebellum periods and beyond.
We arrived at Bacon’s Castle/Allen House just after two p.m. As you drive into the historic site, the sheer scale of the large brick edifice takes your breath away. The Allen House still feels much as it did centuries ago, in a rural pastoral farm setting. It feels as if time has stood still, with only the rustling of the wind and perhaps the faint echoes of past voices breaking the tranquility.
After parking our car, we headed inside, through the gift shop where we were greeted by a friendly docent. She let us know that the next tour would start in thirty minutes. In the interim we were free to browse the exhibits detailing the history of the home.
What makes this home unique:
While there are many other historic plantation homes in Virginia’s Tidewater region, Bacon’s Castle stands apart in its unique architectural style and fiery history.  It is one of only three surviving Jacobean great houses west of the Atlantic, the other two are in Barbados (Drax Hall and St. Nicholas Abbey Plantation). Jacobite architecture at Bacon’s Castle includes triple-stacked chimneys, shaped Flemish gables, and carved compass roses decorating the cross beams in many of the public rooms.
Built in 1665 for Arthur Allen and his family, this expansive home is the oldest brick dwelling in the United States. It is a rare example of the High Jacobean architecture, which was superseded by the more popular Georgian style in later years. The Jacobite style feels like a formidable castle.
The exhibit rooms are meticulously researched and bring the history to life with engaging displays
Exhibits at the Arthur Allen House/Bacon’s Castle delve into four centuries of rich history, from the colonial era to the present. They highlight pivotal moments and the lives of significant figures, including Arthur Allen and his family, and explore the impact of Bacon’s Rebellion. The site offers a unique perspective on the experiences of enslaved and free Africans and African Americans who lived, worked, and sought freedom there
History:
Arthur Allen first patented land in Surry County, Virginia near the James River on March 14,1650. He received 200 acres for transporting 3 servants, including Alice Tucker who became his wife. Allen was appointed one of the Justices of the Peace by Governor William Berkeley and was influential in Surry County.
On October 3, 1661, he purchased an additional 500 acres from John and Peleg Dunstan, where he chose to build his magnificent brick home. Little is known about the architects who designed the plantation home. He was 57 years old when it was completed and sadly died in 1669, only a few years after moving in.
The home was then passed to his eldest son, Arthur Allen II, also known as Major Allen. The home stayed in the Allen family until just years before the Civil War when the Hankins family purchased it. The home remained with The Hankins until after the Civil War, when it was sold in 1872.
In 1880, William Allen Warren purchased the estate before selling it to his son, Charles Allen Warren in 1909. When Charles died in 1931, the estate passed to his son, Walker Pegram Warren, who was born in the house. Walker and his wife used Bacon’s Castle as a second home until they died in an auto accident in 1973.
Preservation Virginia purchased 40 acres of the plantation and continues to protect and maintain the history of this important Virginia landmark.  Click here to learn more about Preservation Virginia.
Bacon’s Castle –What’s in a name: Arthur Allen built the house, so why is it known as ‘Bacon’s Castle?’ The story could be straight out of a primetime miniseries. It all starts with a man named Nathaniel Bacon.
Nathaniel Bacon was born on January 2, 1647, at Friston Hall in Suffolk County England.
He graduated from St. Catherine’s College, Cambridge University. He courted and married Elizabeth Duke, daughter of Sir Edward Duke in 1670. Sir Edward so disapproved of the match that he disinherited his daughter. In the early years of his marriage, Bacon became involved in a fraudulent scheme to sell a parcel of land, which resulted in a lawsuit. This among other quarrelsome behaviors prompted his move to Virginia, where his cousin by marriage, Sir William Berkeley served governor of Virginia.
Berkeley, a man of seventy, tried to take care of his young cousin, appointing him to the governor’s council on March 3,1675. While most would be grateful for the appointment, Bacon quickly turned against his cousin, Governor Berkeley.
In truth the two men were polar opposites: Governor Sir William Berkeley was educated and highly respected. At seventy years old, when the crisis began, was a veteran of the English Civil Wars, a frontier Indian fighter, a King’s favorite as well as , and a playwright and scholar.
Bacon was considered a troublemaker and it is believed that his father sent him to Virginia in the hope that he would mature (source). He did not like hard labor, but Bacon was intelligent and eloquent, able to use that charisma to his advantage.
In spite of his ‘troublesome past’, Berkeley initially treated his young cousin with respect and friendship, giving him both a substantial land grant and a seat on the council in 1675.
In the year leading up to the rebellion, Jamestown and Virginia were facing economic hardships and instability. Skirmishes between settlers and Native American tribes, particularly the Doeg and Susquehannock, fueled widespread fear of Indian raids. Governor Berkeley encouraged restraint in dealing with the threat as he recognized not all Natives were hostile and that provoking tribes would only lead to more unrest.
When Bacon demanded that Governor Berkeley authorize a military campaign against Native American Indians, Berkeley refused, sparking the first movement towards rebellion. Bacon was removed from the council after he marched a militia on Jamestown.
Bacon was initially pardoned by the governor but this was revoked as the two stubborn men argued over who was right. A confrontation ensued where Berkeley dramatically exposed his chest, daring Bacon to shoot him. Bacon then declared his own authority, attacked friendly Indians, and besieged Jamestown, setting it on fire. War and rebellion was in full swing in Virginia.
Bacon recruited supporters from all walks of life by leaning into the growing fear of Indian raids, especially after brutal attacks in New England in the King Philip’s War, as well as drawing doubt into the economic and administrative abilities of Governor Berkeley and his council.
In September 1676, rebels led by Nathaniel Bacon seized and fortified the brick house of Major Arthur Allen, a staunch loyalist to Governor Berkeley. Forced to flee, Allen watched as his home became a rebel stronghold.
In October, as the rebellion raged with no end in sight, Bacon suddenly died of dysentery, leaving his militia without a leader. After Bacon’s death, the garrison descended into chaos, with some troops plundering the surrounding area and others deserting the cause altogether. Eventually, royal forces recaptured the “fort” and used it as a base to suppress the remaining rebels
While it is unknown if Bacon ever visited the Allen House, it continues to bear his name as a remembrance of the fiery rebellion nearly 350 years ago.
Our docent provided a lovely tour of the home, walking us through the oldest parts of the house and describing how the families lived in different periods. Preservation Virginia has a team of engineers and restoration specialist to ensure that the property is protected and preserved. If repairs are made they take painstaking care to ensure it matches the authenticity of the period.
Here are some pictures from the tour:
Once you have toured the interior of the house, I recommend spending some time exploring the beautiful grounds. In warmer months you can meander through reconstructed 17th-century English formal gardens. There are several historic buildings that remain on the property including the smokehouse and slaves quarters.
I took time to say a prayer for all souls who lived and died at Bacon’s Castle. Each having different perspectives. Major Allen was faced with a Rebel Army in Bacon’s Rebellion that told hold of the mansion’s name, while indentured servants and slaves voices still permeate the land…History is alive at Bacon’s Castle.
Planning Your Visit:
Purchase tickets online: I recommend purchasing tickets in advance. The fees go directly into preservation of Bacon’s Castle. Click here for tickets
Getting there:
If you are coming from Richmond/Hopewell VA areas, you can travel VA Highway 10 through bucolic backroads of beautiful Virginia farmland to reach The Allen House/Bacon’s Castle. My mom and I loved winding through this area of Virginia’s Tidewater.
If you are in the Williamsburg/Jamestown area, then you can take ferry from Jamestown across the James River and drive to Bacon’s Castle (A few miles from ferry). Both are scenic and fun ways to reach Bacon’s Castle. For info about Jamestown-Scotland ferry click here.
Lodging:
Richmond and Hopewell VA are only about an hour from Bacon’s Castle – and good spots for lodging. Williamsburg is also within proximity as well.
Surry County VA Tourism Website
*Fun fact – Surry County is one of the top producing peanut regions of Virginia!
Also in the area:
Chippokes Plantation and State Park and Smith’s Fort Plantation
