The week after Christmas, my mom and I enjoyed a “Revolutionary Road Trip” through the heart of Virginia’s Tidewater Region. Our journey took us from the cobblestones of Colonial Williamsburg to the riverfront at Berkeley Plantation, through the charming streets of Smithfield, and on toward the Battle of the Great Bridge Museum in Chesapeake and the historic port of Norfolk.
In the coming weeks, I’ll be sharing deep-dive posts into each of the amazing sites we visited, exploring the history, culture, and unique things to do in the region.
Why the Tidewater Matters
This section of Virginia is the perfect destination for “American Nomads” who love history, great food, and natural beauty. This region is a living timeline. It began at Werowocomoco in Gloucester, the ancient capital of the Powhatan Confederacy. Soon after, in 1607, the first permanent English colony was established nearby at Jamestown.
The James, York, Nansemond, and Elizabeth rivers have been thoroughfares for commerce, sustenance, and community for centuries. This entire region is steeped in the history and archaeology of those who came before us. If you listen closely as the wind rustles through the trees along the James River, you might just hear their stories.
Across the centuries, the Tidewater has been at the center of the American story. This landscape has witnessed the rise of the first civilizations on this continent, the birth of the United States, and the dawn of the Space Age.
- The Native American & Colonial Period: Long before European sails appeared on the horizon, this region was the heart of Tsenacommacah, a vast and sophisticated empire. From his capital at Werowocomoco, the paramount chief Wahunsenacawh (known to the English as Chief Powhatan) presided over a confederacy of more than 30 tribes. Each tribe was led by its own weroance, or local chief, who governed their people while paying tribute to the paramount chiefdom—a complex political web that spanned thousands of miles of the Tidewater. The world shifted in 1607 with the arrival of the English at Jamestown, leading to a century of profound change that included the first English Thanksgiving at Berkeley Plantation in 1619 and the fires of Bacon’s Rebellion in 1676.
- Fun Fact: You can explore the Native American history of this region at Machicomoco State Park.
- The Revolutionary War: The air here once crackled with rebellion. In Williamsburg’s House of Burgesses, Patrick Henry famously defied the crown with his Stamp Act speech—“If this be treason, let’s make the most of it!” A decade later, in May 1775, the tension turned into action. Following the theft of the colony’s gunpowder, Henry led a march of volunteers toward the Governor’s Palace to confront Lord Dunmore.
During these years, Williamsburg was a powder keg, divided between Patriots and Loyalists in what was the most populous and prosperous of the thirteen colonies. The conflict eventually moved toward the coast at the Battle of Great Bridge in December 1775. This major Patriot victory over Dunmore’s forces effectively ended the British colonial government in Virginia. The violence escalated on January 1st, 1776, when Norfolk was burned by a combination of British naval fire and Patriot scorched-earth tactics.
The drama continued as the war progressed; the traitor Benedict Arnold later stormed through the region, pillaging homes and burning crops under the British flag. Ultimately, it all led to Yorktown, where Cornwallis and the British army lost the Revolution and were forced to surrender at the Moore House in October 1781. These stories go on and on, like threads stitching together an American flag.
- The Civil War: Decades later, the conflict returned to these same shores, and the landscape became a battlefield once again. Fort Monroe stood as a massive Union stronghold at the tip of the peninsula. It earned the name “Freedom’s Fortress” in 1861 after three enslaved men—Frank Baker, James Townsend, and Shepard Mallory—escaped to the fort. Major General Benjamin Butler’s decision to classify them as “contraband of war” rather than returning them to their enslavers effectively began the end of slavery in the United States, years before the Emancipation Proclamation.
From this base, the war surged inland during the Peninsula Campaign of 1862. In a haunting twist of fate, Union and Confederate armies engaged in hellish fighting at Yorktown, with soldiers digging into the very same earthworks and trenches that their forefathers had used during the Revolution. This “brother against brother” conflict saw the same ground that birthed a nation nearly tear it apart. Throughout the region, from the naval clash of the ironclads Monitor and Merrimack in the Hampton Roads harbor to the siege lines around Norfolk, the Tidewater remained a pivotal—and bloody—theater of the war.
- The Modern Era: The region’s legacy of exploration didn’t end with the closing of the frontier; it simply looked toward the stars. In Hampton, the NASA Langley Research Center became the “Mother of NASA.” It was here that the original Mercury 7 astronauts received their training, and where the “Hidden Figures”—the brilliant African American women mathematicians like Katherine Johnson—performed the complex calculations that launched John Glenn into orbit.
Just across the water, the military might of the nation remains anchored in the present. Norfolk is home to the largest naval installation in the world, serving as a global stronghold for the U.S. Navy’s Atlantic Fleet. Along the James River, the Newport News Shipbuilding yard continues a century-long tradition of building the fleet, standing as the sole designer and builder of the nation’s nuclear-powered aircraft carriers. From the wooden ships of 1607 to the massive carriers and supersonic jets of today, the Tidewater region continues to be the heartbeat of American defense and discovery.
This region offers something for everyone. Whether you are looking to dig into the past or immerse yourself in the present culture—from world-class oysters and local music to theme parks and nature trails—it is waiting for you in the Historic Triangle and Tidewater.
In this posts, I’m going to share a “Deep Dive” recap of our adventure. Afterward, look for my featured posts on the specific historic sites, small towns, and big cities we explored along the way! (Look for a pocket guide soon!)
History ‘Nut’ Itinerary: Here is a snapshot of my Tidewater Adventure Itinerary
- Day 1: Settlement & Sovereignty – Exploring the living history of Colonial Williamsburg and the grand riverfront legacy of Berkeley Plantation.
- Day 2: Yorktown to Christmas Town – From the British surrender site to the “Second Surrender” at Gloucester Point. We wrapped up the day with a “Bah Humbug” and hot cocoa at Busch Gardens Christmas Town.
- Day 3: The Pancake Capital & Rural Ruins – Fueling up in Williamsburg (The Pancake Capital of the World!) before a morning walk at Windsor Castle Park in Smithfield. We visited the 1680 St. Luke’s Church (the oldest Gothic brick church in America) and Chippokes State Park, followed by a stop at the haunting ruins of the Old Brick Church of Lawnes Creek near Bacon’s Castle. Lodging and dinner at Smithfield Station.
- Day 4: Hams, Peanuts, and Patriots – A tour of Historic Smithfield, the Isle of Wight County Museum (home of the World’s Oldest Ham), and Fort Boykin. We detoured through Suffolk to trace my Lassiter family roots and see Mr. Peanut, then headed to the Great Bridge Battle Site Museum to hear the story of hero Billy Flora before arriving in Norfolk.
- Day 5: Art and Icons – Immersing ourselves in the world-class glass collection and Susan Watkins’ art at the Chrysler Museum of Art, followed by a walk through 400 years of history at Fort Monroe and the Casemate Museum.
Looking for More?
I’ve included a bunch of content in this post to highlight each site and as a record of the adventure. But if you prefer a quick-guide, stay posted for “Pocket Guide” versions for this region coming soon!
Want more detail about each specific destination? In the coming weeks, I’ll be publishing featured posts for Berkeley, Smithfield, Great Bridge, and the Chrysler Museum. Don’t forget to subscribe for all the latest blog posts so you never miss a stop on the road!
Three Days in the Historic Triangle
Williamsburg • Yorktown • Jamestown/Berkeley
My mom and I checked into our hotel in Williamsburg on the evening of Monday, December 29th. Williamsburg has a wealth of wonderful hotels for any budget. For this adventure, we chose the Hampton Inn (Bypass), just a two-minute drive from Merchant’s Square. I love Hampton Inns for the 24/7 complimentary coffee and the free breakfast—a major perk when you’re fueling up for a day of history!
Other personal recommendations:
- The Woodlands: Part of the Colonial Williamsburg Resorts; great for families and offers a direct shuttle to the historic district.
- Fort Magruder: Located right on a Civil War battle site!
- Fife and Drum Inn & Armistead B&B: Perfect for those who want to stay right in the historic district.
A Hallmark Morning in Merchant’s Square After a hearty breakfast on Tuesday, we headed to Merchant’s Square. Although it was built in the 1930s (designed to look much older!), it feels like stepping directly into a Hallmark movie. During the holidays, the gorgeous lights, festive trees, and “winter wonderland” storefronts are magical.
With the temperature hovering at a brisk 36°C, I realized I’d forgotten my gloves! We ducked into R.P. Wallace & Sons General Store, where I snagged a hat and gloves for under $25. Properly bundled, we perused our favorite shops: The Williamsburg Peanut Shop, The Scottish House (total Outlander vibes!), The Cheese Shop, and the Christmas Shoppe.
Walking Through History We spent the next several hours exploring Colonial Williamsburg on foot. At Christmas, the highlight is the handmade wreaths. Each has a unique theme using natural greenery, fruit, and foliage. My favorite was the “Remember the Ladies” wreath, paying homage to Abigail Adams.
Fun Fact: The first documented Christmas tree in Virginia was right here in Williamsburg in 1842. It was introduced by a German professor, Charles Minnigerode, who decorated a small evergreen with popcorn and gilded nuts for a local family. While the tradition of the tree is often linked to St. Boniface, it was Prince Albert’s marriage to Queen Victoria that truly popularized the “Christmas Tree” in the English-speaking world.
The Governors and the Patriots While we didn’t have time to tour the interior of the Governor’s Palace this trip, it’s a must-see in December when it’s decked out for a Governor’s Ball. It was the home of Lord Dunmore, the last Royal Governor of Virginia. His tenure ended in scandal on April 21, 1775 after he secretly removed the colony’s gunpowder from the Magazine, sparking a confrontation with Patrick Henry and Virginia militia in May that eventually forced him to flee the city by early June 1775.
We spent time at two of my favorite homes: the George Wythe House and the Peyton Randolph House.
The George Wythe House: A Legacy of Law and Tragedy
George Wythe was a giant of the Enlightenment—a mentor to Thomas Jefferson and the “Father of American Jurisprudence.” As a staunch abolitionist, he likely influenced Jefferson’s “all men are created equal” philosophy. Wythe loved his Williamsburg home and only moved to Richmond after it became the capital to fulfill his role as a judge.
However, his story ends in a tragedy worthy of a true-crime novel. In 1806, Wythe’s grandnephew, seeking an early inheritance, poisoned the household’s coffee with arsenic. The attack killed Wythe and a young freedman named Michael Brown, whom Wythe was mentoring and loved like a son. Michael had been destined for further education under Thomas Jefferson, who deeply lamented the youth’s death in his correspondence. Lydia Broadnax, a freedwoman who was a vital part of the household, also drank the poisoned coffee. While she survived, she suffered from significant health issues and blindness afterward; Jefferson himself helped pay for her medical care. I highly recommend the book I Am Murdered for a deep dive into this heartbreaking case. Wythe is now buried at St. John’s Church in Richmond.
The Peyton Randolph House: A Legacy of Three Centuries
The Peyton Randolph House stands as one of the oldest and most architecturally significant residences in Williamsburg. The property originally began as two separate structures built between 1715 and 1718 by William Robertson. In 1754, the home was purchased by Peyton Randolph, who physically joined the buildings by constructing a grand central section, creating the seven-bay, deep-red Georgian mansion seen today.
Among its many unique features is a rare 18th-century cistern located in the attic. This sophisticated water-collection system captured rainwater from the roof to provide a gravity-fed supply—a technological marvel and a sign of immense wealth in colonial Virginia.
The “Moderator” of the Revolution
Peyton Randolph was a titan of the founding era. A first cousin (once removed) to Thomas Jefferson, Randolph was the steady hand during the colonies’ first steps toward rebellion. As the first President of the Continental Congress, he held the gavel as the thirteen colonies first began to act as a single, unified nation. Though he passed the leadership “baton” to John Hancock after his death in 1775, his guidance laid the essential groundwork for the independence declared just months later.
A Crossroads of War: The Peachy Family
By the mid-19th century, the house passed to the Peachy family, prominent Southerners with deep Confederate loyalties. During the Civil War, the family’s legacy became one of survival and mercy. Following the bloody Battle of Williamsburg in May 1862, the home was converted into a field hospital.
Despite their Confederate sympathies, the Peachys saw their home become a sanctuary for the suffering. Under the same roof where Randolph once debated liberty, wounded soldiers from both the Union and the Confederacy lay side-by-side in the grand parlors. For much of the war, the family remained in the home under Union occupation, living alongside the medical triage of a divided nation.
Witness to History
The house has hosted some of the most famous figures in Western history:
- The Revolution: General Rochambeau used the home as his headquarters during the 1781 Siege of Yorktown.
- The Farewell Tour: In 1824, General Lafayette stayed in the house as a guest of the Peachy family during his celebrated return to America.
- The Enslaved Community: The property was also home to a large enslaved community, including Johnny, a skilled carpenter whose craftsmanship helped maintain the mansion.
Today, the Peyton Randolph House remains a silent witness to over 300 years of American history—from the heights of political triumph to the tragedies of the Civil War.
Fun Fact: On March 23, 1775, Peyton Randolph, George Washington, and Thomas Jefferson were all present at St. John’s Church in Richmond for Patrick Henry’s “Give me Liberty or Death” speech. Randolph was actually presiding over the meeting!
A Personal Connection: While digging into my genealogy, I discovered that Peyton Randolph and I share a common ancestor, making us second cousins. While this doesn’t make or break our identity, as a Revolutionary War buff who admires the work Peyton Randolph did for Independence, it is cool to share that connection.
After spending several hours meandering through the streets of Williamsburg—taking in the history and admiring the festive Christmas wreaths—we headed back to Merchants Square around one o’clock for a midday snack. We had planned to eat at our favorite lunch spot, the DoG Street Pub, but the staff was taking a well-deserved holiday break and the restaurant was closed.
Since I was still full from breakfast, we headed to one of my favorite coffee shops in the Historic Triangle: Aroma’s Cafe. Located just steps from Colonial Williamsburg and the College of William & Mary, this place is always bustling because the food and coffee are so good—it is always worth the wait! Luckily, we snagged a table inside, which was a welcome relief from the blistering cold. Aroma’s offers a great variety of sandwiches, smoothies, and pastries, including several gluten-free options like their blondies and coffee cake. My mom enjoyed a delicious ‘Apple Pie’ Hot Apple Cider, while I indulged in a seasonal latte. Aroma’s never disappoints!
Around two o’clock, I dropped my mom off at the Hampton Inn so she could relax while I set off on a history quest to Berkeley Plantation. Located about forty minutes west of Williamsburg in a beautiful rural area along the James River, this stretch of byway is surrounded by some of the most historic land in the United States. From Native American heritage to the early settlers and the rise of the great plantations, the area is so steeped in history that you feel as though the present and past are colliding.
Many of the great Virginia manor homes lie along this stretch of highway, though many remain hidden from view. You’ll find Sherwood Forest (the John Tyler home), Doghams, Shirley Plantation (remarkably still owned by the Carter family!), and Westover (built by the Byrd family). Our destination, Berkeley, overlooks the James River. In the Colonial era, river access was vital; it ensured shorter travel times between riverfront settlements and allowed plantations to ship their goods to port markets much faster than by carriage.
En route to Berkeley, I couldn’t help but turn around for a few historic markers, including a stop at the historic Westover Church, one of the oldest in Virginia.
Westover Church: A Historic Detour
Less than five minutes from Berkeley Plantation, you’ll discover one of the most storied houses of worship in Virginia: Westover Parish Church. I’ve always been drawn to old churches; there is a lingering spirit of hope within their walls that transcends time.
The Deep Roots of the Parish After the settlement of Jamestown in 1607, colonists began migrating into the surrounding wilderness, particularly into what is now Charles City. By 1613, several early parishes—Weyanoke, Wallingford, and Wilmington—unified to create Westover. The church was originally a wooden structure located on the banks of the James River on the grounds of Westover Plantation. However, by 1730, the congregation decided to move the church 1.5 miles inland to its present location on Cypress Creek to be more accessible to the growing community.
A Gathering of Giants The current brick building, completed around 1731, is a classic example of Colonial Virginian architecture, featuring a “clipped gable” or jerkinhead roof. For centuries, its pews held some of the most famous figures in American history:
- The Founding Fathers: George Washington and Thomas Jefferson both worshipped here while traveling or visiting local families.
- The Harrison Dynasty: The Harrisons of Berkeley—including Benjamin Harrison V (signer of the Declaration) and his son William Henry Harrison (the 9th President)—were vestrymen and regular attendees.
- The Tylers: John Tyler, the 10th President, was also a member of the congregation.
The Dark Years and the “Scottish Connection” The church faced a period of dark uncertainty following the Revolutionary War. In 1802, the Virginia government passed the Glebe Act, which seized the church’s lands and income. Deprived of funds and priests, many rural parishes like Westover fell into ruin.
It was during this time that the American church survived by a “Scottish lifeline.” Because English bishops wouldn’t ordain Americans who refused to swear an oath to the King, Scottish bishops stepped in to provide Apostolic Succession, allowing the church to reform as the Episcopal Church. Even so, Westover remained largely dormant and boarded up until the “Great Revival” of the 1830s.
A Witness to War As I explored the cemetery, I found myself compelled to offer a Divine Mercy Chaplet for those buried there. I noticed a striking detail: almost all the headstones were dated post-Civil War.
The reason is a sobering piece of history. During the Union occupation of 1862, General George McClellan’s troops used the church as a stable for their horses. The soldiers famously desecrated the cemetery, using the ancient 18th-century gravestones as flooring for their tents and even as bases for their cooking ovens. When the smoke of the war cleared, the church had to be painstakingly restored. It officially reopened in 1867 and remains today a thriving place of prayer—a true testament to resilience across three centuries.
Berkeley Plantation: Where the American Story Comes to Life
As a huge history nut, I’ve traveled to countless historic sites and museums across the country, but hands down, Berkeley Plantation is the most significant I’ve visited. There is so much history tied to the fabric of the American story happening right here on these grounds. Perhaps it’s my creative mind, but I can truly imagine the people who came before us the moment I step onto the property. Knowing I’m in the same place where history—both joyous and tragic—occurred brings it all to life.
I’ll be doing an in-depth feature on Berkeley in the coming weeks, but here is a quick recap of my visit.
Stepping Back in Time
Berkeley is a privately owned museum offering guided tours throughout much of the year. The guides are phenomenal and know this land like the back of their hands. My guide, Crystal, is a fellow history addict; it was a joy to listen to her tell the stories of Berkeley in the very rooms where they happened. Close your eyes for a moment as you feel the floorboards creaking under your feet – this is where centuries of men and women have stood before you – each with their own story to tell.
When you take a tour, be prepared for “the good kind” of goosebumps. It is a literal history book under your feet. You stand on the same floors where George Washington danced the Virginia Reel, where Benedict Arnold unleashed his wrath, and where Abraham Lincoln strategized to save the Union.
The First Thanksgiving and the 1622 Uprising
While many know the story of the Pilgrims in 1621, the truth is that the first official Thanksgiving by English colonists took place exactly where Berkeley stands today. On December 4, 1619, 38 settlers arrived on the ship Margaret and held a prayer service of gratitude for their safe passage.
However, this tradition was cut short by the Indian Uprising of 1622. This coordinated attack by the Powhatan Confederacy left the colony in shambles and Berkeley Hundred temporarily abandoned. It’s a sobering reminder of the fragile and often violent nature of early colonial life. You can even see an official decree from John F. Kennedy’s office in the house confirming Berkeley as the site of the first Thanksgiving in America.
The Harrison Legacy & Architectural Grandeur
The land eventually came into the Harrison family, where it remained for generations. In 1726, Benjamin Harrison IV built the current three-story brick structure. Look closely at the exterior; you’ll see a brick carved with the initials of Benjamin and his wife, Anne Carter, joined by a heart.
The house is built in a Flemish bond pattern—a “long-short” alternating sequence of bricks. If you look closely, you’ll notice many of the shorter bricks have a dark, purple-hued sheen. These are “vitrified” headers, created by placing the bricks closest to the intense heat of the kiln fire until the minerals in the clay turned to glass. This sparkly effect was a deliberate “flex” of the 1700s; it helped the home shimmer and show off its grandeur to the boats passing by on the James River.
History Stands Still: Within that beautiful brickwork, you can find the fingerprints of small enslaved children who helped fire the clay on-site. Placing your hand in the spots where their tiny hands made an impression brings the complex, heartbreaking reality of plantation life into sharp focus. May we learn from the past so we never repeat these mistakes.
Tragedy, Wit, and a Jefferson Renovation
The story of Anne and Ben IV is a “boy meets girl next door” romance—Anne was the daughter of “King” Carter from the neighboring Shirley Plantation. Sadly, their story ended in tragedy in 1745 when a fierce summer storm struck. Benjamin Harrison IV and his young daughter, Hannah, went upstairs to close the windows when lightning struck the house, killing them both.
Their son, Benjamin Harrison V, took over the plantation and became a titan of the Revolution. He was a Signer of the Declaration of Independence and was known for a quick wit that could even make the stoic John Adams laugh.
Berkeley also played host to the first ten U.S. Presidents. Thomas Jefferson, a man who would have definitely had his own HGTV remodeling show today, was a frequent guest. He famously claimed the peas grown at Berkeley were the best he ever ate. But he left a more permanent mark than a food review—Jefferson actually designed the beautiful Italian-style double arches in the lower level of the home during the time of Benjamin Harrison VI.
The Wrath of Benedict Arnold
In 1781, the notorious traitor Benedict Arnold stormed Berkeley. He ordered his men to drag the family’s furniture and portraits outside to be burned. One theory suggests he didn’t burn the house itself because he hoped to claim it for himself after the war—his wife Peggy’s cousin Mary Willing Byrd lived next door and they loved the property! To this day, visitors still find shards of smashed 18th-century china in the dirt after a heavy rain—a lingering scar of Arnold’s “scorched earth” policy.
A Home of Two Presidents
Berkeley is one of only two homes in America that can claim to be the ancestral home of two presidents: William Henry Harrison (the 9th President) and his grandson Benjamin Harrison (the 23rd). Interesting enough, William Henry Harrison, hero at Tippecanoe had moved to Ohio from his native Virginia. His grandson was born in Ohio and had strong ties to the Union and abolition, which shows how through their Virginia roots were important, they weren’t afraid to forge their own paths…not so different than their patriot ancestor when he risked his wealth and position to sign the Declaration of Independence.
William Henry Harrison used “log cabin” propaganda to appear as an “everyman.” He unfortunately died just 31 days into his term after giving the longest inaugural address on record during a cold rain.
Part of his reason for the stubbornness of the speech without a hat, was that he was known as ‘Old Granny’ with the next generation as he was 68 years old when he was sworn in. At the time that was ancient. Unfortunately standing in the cold and damp for so long with no hat led to a severe cold and infection, which killed him.
His grandson, Benjamin, clearly learned the lesson: he kept his speech short and wore a hat!
The Room of Presidents and Surgeons
Inside the manor house at Berkeley, there is a guest room with a pedigree unlike almost any other in America. This room served as the quarters for several early U.S. Presidents when they visited the Harrison dynasty. It was in this very room, surrounded by the echoes of the Founders, that President Abraham Lincoln and General George B. McClellan met in July 1862.
The meeting was incredibly tense. Lincoln had traveled by steamship to Berkeley (Harrison’s Landing) because he was deeply frustrated with McClellan’s caution. While they sat within these historic walls, McClellan famously handed the President the “Harrison’s Landing Letter,” a document where the General overstepped his military bounds to give the President unsolicited advice on the political direction of the war.
But the room’s history has a much darker, more visceral layer. During the height of the occupation, this grand “Presidential Suite” was repurposed as an operating room.
The same floorboards that supported the weight of Lincoln and the feet of early Presidents were soon stained with the blood of soldiers. Surgeons worked around the clock, performing grueling amputations and life-saving procedures as the 120,000-man army suffered through the aftermath of the Seven Days Battles. To stand in that room today is to feel the thin veil between the “Grand History” of leaders and the “Human History” of the men who fought for them.
The Birth of Taps: A Berkeley Legacy
During the sweltering July of 1862, Berkeley (known then as Harrison’s Landing) was a sea of blue wool and canvas. Over 100,000 soldiers were recovering from the retreat of the Seven Days Battles. The air was thick with heat, disease, and the constant sound of military bugle calls.
The Composition Union General Daniel Butterfield was dissatisfied with the standard “Lights Out” call, finding it too formal and harsh for the end of a day marked by such heavy loss. He summoned his brigade bugler, Oliver Willcox Norton, to his tent. Butterfield had scribbled some musical notes on the back of an envelope and asked Norton to play them.
Together, they lengthened some notes and shortened others—revising the melody until it captured the somber, peaceful “lullaby” we recognize today. The call was first played across the Berkeley grounds that night.
From Berkeley to the World The melody was so hauntingly beautiful that buglers in neighboring camps drifted over to ask for the music. It spread like wildfire through the Union Army and, incredibly, was even adopted by Confederate buglers across the lines.
The First Military Funeral Not long after its composition at Berkeley, “Taps” was played for the first time at a military funeral. A captain wanted to honor a fallen soldier but feared that the traditional three-volley rifle salute would alert the nearby enemy and restart the fighting. He chose instead to have the new bugle call played—establishing a tradition of honor and “final rest” that has been played at every American military funeral for over 160 years.
Harrison’s Landing: Anchor to Giants
Picture the scene in July 1862. If you were standing on the river-facing side of the mansion, looking out toward the James, you would have seen a sight that defied imagination. Berkeley was designed with two front doors—one facing the land and one facing the water—so as not to offend guests arriving by either carriage or boat (also a highlight of the symmetry of Georgian style architecture). In the 1700s, greeting a guest at the “back door” was a grave social insult.
But in that summer of 1862, the view from the “river front” door was dominated by one of the most famous warships in history: the ironclad USS Monitor. Docked right at Harrison’s Landing, the Monitor sat low in the water, a strange “cheesebox on a raft” guarding the 120,000 Union troops camped on the hills behind it.
Tragically, this marvel of iron was lost only months later. In late December 1862, while being towed toward North Carolina, the Monitor encountered a fierce Nor’easter in the “Graveyard of the Atlantic” off Cape Hatteras. The ship began to leak where the turret met the hull, and despite a heroic rescue effort by the USS Rhode Island, sixteen men perished as the ironclad slipped beneath the waves.
Today, the story of the Monitor has come full circle. The ship’s massive revolving turret, engine, and personal artifacts were recovered from the ocean floor and are now on display at The Mariners’ Museum in Newport News. Walking through that museum (a must-do for your Spring trip!) allows you to see the very iron that Lincoln touched and that the soldiers at Berkeley once cheered from the shore. Learn more about the U.S.S. Monitor here.
Restoration
The home was eventually saved by John Jamieson, who had been a drummer boy at Berkeley during the Civil War. He returned years later as a successful businessman to purchase and restore the property. His descendants still own Berkeley today, graciously sharing this “living history book” with the world.
Cats Who Love History: A “Purrfect” Segment
On American Nomad, we have a special segment where we feature the felines who live in and “oversee” our nation’s historic landmarks. One of the most beloved historians in Virginia is George, a feline scholar, expert cat-napper, and professional treat collector.
As Berkeley’s Chief Cat Ambassador, George is known to greet guests and occasionally “supervise” tours of the mansion. Sadly, George was fully booked with his own royal schedule while I was at Berkeley, but if you’re lucky during your visit, you might just get an audience with the manor’s most famous resident.
A Firecracker Sky
Following the tour, the day ended with a breathtaking gift. As I looked out over the James River, the horizon erupted into a “firecracker sky”—a stunning array of deep oranges, vibrant pinks, and burning reds.
In spite of the frigid temperatures that were quite literally shaking my bones, I couldn’t pull myself away. I remained standing on the lawn until the colors finally began to fade into the purple of twilight. I found myself imagining the many souls who had stood on this exact ground over the last 300 years: the Harrisons in their finery, the enslaved community during their rare moments of rest, and the Union soldiers far from home. They all would have looked out at a sunset exactly like this, perhaps using that moment to dream or find peace.
It was a poignant reminder that for all the harshness and trials of history, something as simple as a sunset can still spark hope.
I Turn Around for Historic Markers: The Charles City Detour
On the way back to Williamsburg, I couldn’t resist a mini detour. I’m a historic marker nut; they provide such a wonderful glimpse into the character of an area. Even though it was getting dark, I used my phone flashlight to read three signs near Charles City:
- Kittiewan and Dr. Rickman: This denotes Kittiewan, the former manor home of Dr. William Rickman. He was a crucial figure in the Revolution, serving as the Director and Chief Physician of the Continental Hospitals in Virginia. Fun fact, Dr. Rickman was the son-in-law of Benjamin Harrison V!
- Upper Weyanoke: This marker discusses a fascinating moment in 1617 when Opechancanough (Chief Powhatan’s brother) gave this land to the future governor, George Yeardley.
- Weyanoke Parish Hill: This sign details the early ecclesiastical and colonial history of this specific region along the James River.
A Toast to the ‘Spirit of 76’ in Merchant’s Square
Arriving back in Williamsburg around 7:00 PM, I picked up my mom from the hotel and we headed to Merchant’s Square for a delicious meal at The Hounds Tale. This is one of many amazing restaurants in the heart of Williamsburg, known for its cozy, quirky atmosphere and welcoming staff.
We split a delicious salad, gluten-free pita-style bread, and a fondue cheese hamburger. To celebrate our first day, we toasted the “Spirit of ’76” with their winter version of an Aperol Spritz—a clever blend of apple cider and Aperol.
Before heading in for the night, we drove past the Williamsburg Inn to see their resplendent holiday lights. This is a five-star, four-diamond landmark, and while I’ve never stayed there, the elegance and warmth of its holiday décor are legendary. It was the perfect, glowing end to our first day.
December 31st: Toasting the New Year with History, Lights and Scrooge
Gloucester Point: The “Second Surrender” and the Fall of the Green Dragoon
After breakfast, my mom and I headed out on a history adventure to Yorktown to visit an often-overlooked site in the story of American Victory: Gloucester Point. Located just over the York River, by the George P. Coleman Memorial Bridge, only a few minutes from the Yorktown Battleground, Gloucester Point played a massive role in the weeks leading up to the end, serving as the stage for the Battle of the Hook on October 3rd and the site of the “Second Surrender” on October 19th, 1781.
For me, this was a personal trip. I wanted to stand on the ground where my “history arch-nemesis”—the most hated man in the Waxhaws of the Carolinas, Banastre Tarleton—was finally forced to face capture.
Finding Tyndall’s Point
When visiting Yorktown, don’t just stop at Surrender Field or the Moore House. Drive across the George P. Coleman Bridge to Tyndall’s Point Park (also known as Gloucester Point). I’ll admit, the site is poorly marked from the road—but once you arrive, you’re treated to a brilliant storytelling trail with signs from American Battlefield Trust and the County of Gloucester.
Fun fact: Gloucester County is one of the oldest counties in Virginia, established in circa 1638.
This land juts into the York River at its narrowest width (only half a mile wide), making it a strategic “choke point.” Long before the English, it was a vital spot for the Powhatan Confederacy. Their capital, Werowocomoco, was located just up the road near present-day Gloucester—a town with a fantastic museum that is well worth the detour.
1608: The Mapping of the New World The story begins just one year after the founding of Jamestown. Robert Tyndall, a master mariner who surveyed the area alongside John Smith, noted this strategic spit of land on his charts. He named it “Tyndall’s Point,” recognizing early on that whoever controlled this narrow pinch in the river controlled the heart of Virginia.
1613: The Tobacco Hub By 1613, the Point had become a vital economic artery. It served as a major storehouse for the colony’s primary cash crop: tobacco. Planters from all over the region would bring their “brown gold” here to be inspected and loaded onto massive ships bound for England.
1667: The Dutch Threat and the First Fort As the global struggle for power intensified, the first fort was built here in 1667 during the Second Anglo-Dutch War. The threat was very real; the Dutch were a formidable naval power and were actively fighting to reclaim territories like New Amsterdam (New York), which they had lost to the English in 1664. That same year, the Dutch fleet actually raided the Chesapeake, proving that a fort at Tyndall’s Point was the only thing standing between the colony and a foreign invasion.
1676: Bacon’s Rebellion and the Temporary Capital The Point also served as a stage for the first major stirrings of American rebellion. During Bacon’s Rebellion in 1676, Jamestown was burned to the ground by Nathaniel Bacon’s followers. The Royal Governor, Sir William Berkeley, fled across the river, and Tyndall’s Point became a strategic buffer and a temporary stronghold for the loyalist forces as the colony descended into civil war.
1719: Pirates and the “Hangman’s Reach” Because of its deep-water access and strategic location, the Point was a constant magnet for smugglers and outlaws. The Golden Age of Piracy was in full swing in the early 1700s, but Virginia’s authorities had little patience for sea-thieves. In 1719, two pirates—William Harrison and John Manly—were captured and brought to justice here. They were hanged at the Point as a grisly warning to any other pirates peeking into the York River.
The Bridge Cornwallis Couldn’t Cross
While today we can cross the York in a matter of minutes via the George P. Coleman Memorial Bridge, in 1781, you’d rely entirely on watercraft to reach Gloucester Point. This narrowest part of the river was a double-edged sword: it offered a quick “backdoor” overland escape route if you needed to flee Yorktown, but it also served as a perfect trap.
In August 1781, Cornwallis divided his forces, sending a contingent to Gloucester Point that included Colonel Dundas, the Queen’s Rangers (led by John Graves Simcoe), and the notorious Banastre Tarleton. Tarleton had terrorized the Carolinas, earning the nickname “Bloody Tarleton” after the Waxhaws Massacre, where his men gave no quarter to surrendering Patriots. He had even tried to kidnap Governor Thomas Jefferson at Monticello, who narrowly escaped thanks to the “Paul Revere of Virginia,” Jack Jouett.
Cornwallis selected Yorktown because it was a deep-water port with strategic terrain, counting on an exit via Gloucester Point or the sea. He expected the British Navy to protect the Chesapeake and be able to resupply his army in Yorktown, but everything changed on September 5, 1781, during the Battle of the Capes. In this massive naval engagement, the French fleet defeated the British Navy, effectively sealing the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay. With the British ships driven off, Cornwallis was isolated. To make matters worse, Washington, who was intimately aware of this region as his grandmother had lived twelve miles north of Gloucester Point at Warner Hall, knew about the land loophole and had already hemmed in the Gloucester side by sending a combined force of French Cavalry and American militia to cut off the overland escape routes.
The Clash at the Hook: A Thundering Cavalry Duel
While the main siege at Yorktown was a battle of heavy artillery and slow-moving trenches, the Battle of the Hook on October 3, 1781, was a high-speed, visceral explosion of cavalry warfare. The action began when the Duke de Lauzun’s Legion—a colorful unit of French hussars in brilliant blue uniforms—linked up with American militia at Seawell’s Ordinary (a local tavern just a few miles north of the British lines).
As the Allied forces moved south from the tavern, they intercepted a British foraging party led by Tarleton. In a moment straight out of a movie, Lauzun and Tarleton spotted one another and personally led a charge, their horses colliding in the heat of battle. Tarleton was actually unhorsed and narrowly escaped capture by scrambling onto a fellow soldier’s mount. The engagement quickly escalated into a chaotic swirl of over 1,500 soldiers, including the Mercer’s Virginia Grenadiers, who stood their ground against the charging British horsemen. By the time the dust settled, Tarleton’s feared cavalry had been forced into a humiliating retreat back to their earthworks. This victory at the Hook effectively “bottled up” the British, ending their ability to forage for the food and supplies they desperately needed to survive the siege.
Washington knew Cornwallis would try to bolt through this “backdoor.” On October 3rd, 1781, the two forces collided in the Battle of the Hook. It was the largest cavalry battle of the American Revolution—a fierce, horse-powered clash that ended with the “Green Dragoon” retreating behind his breastworks at Gloucester Point.
The action began at Seawell’s Ordinary, a local tavern—an “ordinary” being the 18th-century term for an establishment that served a fixed-price meal—which served as the Allied command post for the French-American forces at Gloucester. While French and American troops gathered at the tavern, Banastre Tarleton was just a few miles away at Whiting’s Farm, raiding the local corn supply.
Legend has it that a local woman warned Duke de Lauzun that Tarleton had just departed, boasting that he was “anxious to shake the hand of the French Duke.” Lauzun didn’t keep him waiting. He charged from the tavern and met Tarleton in a thundering cavalry clash that left the British “Butcher” unhorsed and in retreat—an opening act to what would become known as the Battle of the Hook.
When I visited the area, I learned that Seawell’s still stands—though its modern-day use is a bit out of the ordinary. Today, it serves as a car dealership. Preservationists attempted to purchase the building in 2007, but the deal fell through, and it eventually became the headquarters for Auto Max. Fortunately, the current owners have maintained the historic structure, allowing this piece of the Revolutionary War’s “starting line” to survive amid a very 21st-century landscape.
Festive Fun: Christmas Town at Busch Gardens
After wrapping up our history adventure around one o’clock, my mom and I headed back toward Williamsburg for some holiday magic at Busch Gardens Christmas Town.
Busch Gardens is currently celebrating its 50th anniversary, and for the holidays, the park transforms into one of the largest light displays in North America. The park is divided into European “countries,” each with its own unique festive flavor. While my 12-year-old self would have howled with exhilaration riding the Big Bad Wolf in 35-degree weather, “older me” is all about the atmosphere: the Broadway-quality shows, the Christmas Train, and the sheer glow of the 10 million lights.
My Holiday Highlights:
- A Dickensian Christmas (England): This area feels like stepping into A Christmas Carol, complete with Victorian carolers. We saw “Scrooge No More,” a musical at the Globe Theatre with original music and special effects that rival professional theater—they even make it snow!
- Irish Cheer (Ireland): You can catch traditional Irish dancing or duck into the pub for a pint. This is also where you’ll find the Abbey Stone Theatre, which puts on “Gloria”—a stunning, faith-filled production of the first Christmas told through Gospel-style carols.
- Holiday Characters: During peak season, you can find Rudolph and Clarice, but even though we missed them this time, we had the treat of meeting Santa Lucia in the Italy section.
The Christmas Train
My mom and I always make time for the Christmas Train. This steam engine takes you on a musical journey through the park’s backwoods. It feels like riding the “Polar Espresso” as you pass massive light displays choreographed to music. Keep an eye out for the Loch Ness Monster (Nessie)—even the coaster gets a festive, glowing makeover for the journey!
A Pro-Tip on Dining
If I have one gripe, it’s the seating. We ate at the Trapper’s Smokehouse (my favorite food spot in the park), but due to the crowds, we had to eat outside in 35-degree weather without heat lamps. My Tip: Eat a substantial meal before you enter the park, then stick to snacks and the amazing hot cocoa while you’re exploring to avoid the dinner rush.
A Midnight Finish
We stayed from 2:00 to 8:30 p.m., leaving only when the temperature dipped into the high 20s. To warm up, we headed to a favorite downtown Williamsburg haunt: Mellow Mushroom. Even though it’s a chain, the staff at this location is exceptionally friendly and the vibe is perfect for a tired history traveler. My mom ended the day with a gluten-free pizza and salad, and we finally fell asleep just after midnight, exhausted but ready for the next leg of our Virginia adventure.
Next up on Part II of Tidewater Trails…we’ll explore the backroads of Isle of Wight and Surry Counties and charming Smithfield VA. Click here for Part II
Hi, I’m Adele Lassiter, the travel enthusiast behind American Nomad Traveler. This is where I share my love for history, cool museums, art, and travel tips. When I’m not writing, I’m a singer-songwriter with a passion for Americana music. You can find my new album here: adelelassiter.bandcamp.com
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