Revolutionary Road Trip: Tidewater Trails – Part II

The week after Christmas, my mom and I enjoyed a “Revolutionary Road Trip” through the heart of Virginia’s Tidewater Region. Our journey took us from the cobblestones of Colonial Williamsburg to the riverfront at Berkeley Plantation, through the charming streets of Smithfield, and on toward the Battle of the Great Bridge Museum in Chesapeake and the historic port of Norfolk.

In the coming weeks, I’ll be sharing deep-dive posts into each of the amazing sites we visited, exploring the history, culture, and unique things to do in the region.

In the last post we did a deep dive recap of our adventures in the Historic Triangle. In Part II were traveling the backroads of historic Surry and Isle of Wight Counties towards the charming riverfront community of Smithfield VA.

January 1, 2026: A New Year in the Land of Ham and History

Cheers to 2026—the year of America’s 250th anniversary! We kicked off this milestone year with a Williamsburg tradition: breakfast at the Colonial Pancake House. Williamsburg is the proclaimed “Pancake Capital of the World,” and of the many houses in town, this is our favorite. It feels like a family diner should—warm and welcoming. They have an incredible gluten-free menu (the waffles are a must!), and we fueled up for the day with mimosas and hot chocolate.

Heading South: Into Isle of Wight and Surry

Our destination for the day was Smithfield, VA, located about 45 minutes south of Williamsburg. Smithfield is a true hidden gem, nestled on the banks of the Pagan River. While the name sounds mysterious, it is actually an Anglicized version of the Algonquin word for “Pecan,” named for the abundance of nut-bearing trees that once lined the water.

The town is a living gallery of architecture, featuring everything from sturdy Colonial-era homes to grand Victorian and Queen Anne masterpieces. We checked into Smithfield Station, a charming waterfront hotel and restaurant. Our room had a wonderful nautical vibe with a stunning view of the river, and the dinner—specifically the fresh broiled fish platter—was out of this world.

Virginia’s Oldest Stones: St. Luke’s Parish

On the drive down, we took a quiet detour to St. Luke’s Parish. Believed to have been built in the 1680s (though the parish dates to the 1630s), it is the oldest church of its kind in Virginia. While the interior was closed for the holiday, we walked the grounds and spent time in the cemetery. I love exploring old graveyards; there is something so moving about reading the life stories of those who came before us. We paused to say an “Our Father” out of respect for the dead and their living descendants.

Windsor Castle

Once in Smithfield, we explored Windsor Castle Park. This land was originally owned by Arthur Smith (no relation to Captain John Smith), for whom the town is named. The manor house dates to around 1730 and overlooks the point where the Pagan River meets Cypress Creek. Today, the property is a beautiful public park with hiking trails and river access.

Chippokes: One of the Oldest Continuously Farmed Landscapes in America

Later, we ventured out to Chippokes State Park, a true history lover’s dream. Established in 1619, it is one of the oldest continually farmed plantations in the United States, and you can feel the layers of time here.

The first English colonist to own the land at Chippokes was Captain William Powell, an early planter and burgess who acquired property along the James River in the early 17th century. By 1619, the land was already under cultivation, beginning Chippokes’ remarkable continuity of agricultural use.

• The River House: Built around 1830, this vernacular frame house served as the primary residence before the larger mansion was constructed.

The Jones–Stewart Mansion: A striking Italianate antebellum home built in 1854.

• The Legend: Local lore holds that the mansion survived the Civil War because its owner, Albert Jones, reportedly sold his famous brandies to soldiers on both sides of the conflict.
  
• The Gift: In 1967, Evelyn Stewart donated the entire 1,400-acre estate to the Commonwealth of Virginia to be preserved as a working farm museum—an extraordinary gift to history lovers everywhere.
  

This land is also part of the Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail, marking the very waterways explored by Captain John Smith in 1608. While mapping Upper Chippokes Creek, Smith encountered the Quiyoughcohannock, whose chief, Choapoke, gave his name to the land.

Standing on the riverbank, it’s humbling to realize that long before Chippokes became one of the oldest continually farmed plantations in America, it was a thriving Indigenous community—one that played a crucial role in helping the English survive their earliest and most difficult years in Virginia.

Ancestral Roots: Bacon’s Castle

On our way back to the hotel, we drove past Bacon’s Castle. Built circa 1665 by my ancestor, Arthur Allen, it is the oldest extant brick dwelling in America and is world-renowned for its rare Jacobean style. For me, seeing it is personal. In 1676, during Bacon’s Rebellion, rebels rallied behind Nathaniel Bacon against Governor Berkeley and the Jamestown leaders. In the heat of the conflict, they actually seized this house and used it as a fortress, forcing the Allen family out for several months. Seeing those high, distinctive Jacobean chimneys silhouetted against the sky felt like a true homecoming.

Just nearby stand the ruins of the Old Brick Church (Lawne’s Creek), now considered one of Virginia’s most endangered historic sites. Burned in 1868, the church has stood roofless ever since, leaving its fragile brick walls vulnerable to weather, vegetation, and centuries of gradual decay. Local legend says a massive fireball sometimes rises from the cemetery and streaks across the sky toward Bacon’s Castle. While we didn’t witness the fireball, we did catch a sunset so masterpiece-perfect it felt like a divine gift.

That evening we enjoyed a cozy stay at Smithfield Station. The on-site restaurant is amazing! The restaurant was still decorated for Christmas – which lifted my spirits. They have a diverse menu with regional fresh-caught seafood, ham, burgers and other specialties. We split the salad and broiled fish platter. The hushpuppies were out of this world!

January 2: Hamming it up with History in Smithfield

We began the morning at Smithfield Station with a delicious breakfast buffet. There is nothing quite like hot coffee and Smithfield bacon with a view of the scenic Pagan River. With the frost of a 30-degree morning giving way to a beautiful winter sun, we headed into the heart of the historic district.

Smithfield is a rare “triple threat” destination: it offers a scenic bluff-top location, a deep historical timeline stretching from the Indigenous Quiyoughcohannock to the Colonial era, Revolutionary War and Civil War, and a “nutty” legacy as a world-class peanut and ham empire.

The Todd House: Where the Legacy Began

My favorite stop was the Todd House on Main Street (circa 1752). Built by master cabinetmaker Nicholas Parker, you can still see the 13-star and wine cup doorway motif—a testament to 18th-century craftsmanship.

In the 1770s, Captain Mallory Todd purchased the home. Todd was a merchant from Bermuda who pioneered the curing process that put Smithfield on the map. In 1779, he signed the first-ever invoice for a Smithfield Ham for export to the West Indies. This site saw hams cured continuously for 157 years (through the 1930s!)

Patriots & Blockade Runners

The Revolutionary history here is gripping. Mallory Todd wasn’t just a merchant; he was a Patriot who used his fleet to smuggle gunpowder and salt (essential for both war and ham!) past British warships. He worked alongside the original builder’s sons:

• Col. Josiah Parker: A hero who stood by Washington at the Battle of Trenton and reportedly received the surrender sword from the Hessian commander.
• Copeland Parker: Later appointed by Washington as the Surveyor of Customs for Smithfield.

Architecture in Smithfield: Stay tuned for a feature on Smithfield’s gorgeous architecture, which features Colonial era homes to Federal era dwellings…however the most jaw dropping are the resplendent Queen Anne Victorians!

A Walkable Gallery

As you stroll Main Street, history feels alive thanks to the George Lundeen bronze statues. You’ll find Benjamin Franklin in front of the Smithfield Times and George Washington (who actually stayed at the Smithfield Inn), and the popular ‘Valentine Couple.’ Interspersed with these giants are the famous decorated pigs—a “pig trail” of art that pays homage to the town’s culture.

Fun Fact: Did you know that Smithfield was home to one of the original 15 post offices in Virginia? When Benjamin Franklin was establishing the American postal system, he designated Smithfield as a key hub. In fact, Franklin personally surveyed these Virginia post roads in 1763—measuring the miles with a custom odometer on his carriage—to ensure this river port was connected to the rest of the colonies!

The Isle of Wight Museum: A Must-Stop

This museum is a treasure trove. It covers everything from ancient Indigenous pottery to the “Showboat” era. But the stars of the show are:

The World’s Oldest Ham: P.D. Gwaltney’s 1902 “pet” ham. Gwaltney, ever the showman in his business, would take his ‘pet ham’ with him to fairs and show it on the road, even putting a chain on it like a pet on a walk. Accordingly to the museum it is technically still edible due to the curing process but it wouldn’t take very good.

What truly defines a “Genuine Smithfield Ham” is a unique blend of Virginia law, geography, and colonial chemistry. According to a 1926 act of the Virginia General Assembly, to carry this prestigious title, the ham must be processed and dry-cured strictly within the town limits of Smithfield. Historically, the process required the hogs to be peanut-fed; by gleaning the fields after the harvest, the pigs consumed high levels of unsaturated fats that resulted in a softer, oilier fat profile. This allowed the salt to penetrate deeper during the long curing process, creating that distinctively rich, nutty flavor that made Smithfield the “Ham Capital of the World.”

The World’s Oldest Peanut: An 1890 peanut also preserved by the Gwaltney family.

For a time, Smithfield was the Peanut Capital, as P.D. Gwaltney revolutionized peanut processing right on the docks. However, that era ended abruptly in 1921, when a devastating fire torched the processing facilities along the Pagan River. While peanuts remain a vital local crop, the disaster allowed nearby Suffolk—and the burgeoning Planters Peanuts—to officially claim the “Peanut Capital” crown.

We also admired the 1750 Isle of Wight Courthouse. Its unique semi-circular apse makes it one of the most architecturally distinct colonial courthouses in Virginia. The courthouse served Isle of Wight, until a newer Federal Style Courthouse was built seven miles away on Francis Boykin’s land. Boykin was a famous patriot from Smithfield in the Revolutionary War. The circa 1800 courthouse is still standing as well!

VA250 History: In touring Smithfield, I learned about the “year of terror” in 1781, when raging turncoat Benedict Arnold swept through the region in January 1781 (thankfully sparing the town from fire), and later, the notorious Banastre Tarleton (nicknamed “Butcher Ban” after the Battle of the Waxhaws) set his sights on the Isle of Wight and the surrounding areas.

Enter Elizabeth Bennett Young, a true unsung hero of the Revolutionary War. While her husband, the Deputy Clerk, was away at war, Elizabeth didn’t panic—she acted! She gathered the precious court records, packed them into a trunk, and buried them at their farm, Oak Level, to keep them from being burned or seized by the British.

Because of her bravery, our history wasn’t lost to the flames. But the story doesn’t end there! These records escaped destruction again during the Civil War when an enslaved man named Randall Booth took a stand for history. When he heard the Union army was en route, he loaded the records from the newer courthouse (circa 1800) into a wagon and moved them west for protection.

It is because of the bravery of Elizabeth and later Randall that we can still trace our local stories today. Talk about “go-getters!” Next time you’re in the historic district, take a second to remember them.

You can tour the Old Isle of Wight Courthouse – it is a true architectural and historical treasure. Look for a Revolutionary Smithfield History Guide soon – This area played a pivotal role in American Independence!

Detour to Fort Boykin

Before leaving, we took a “Must-Stop” detour to Fort Boykin Park. This site is a witness to 400 years of defense. Originally built in 1623 to protect against Spanish marauders, it was later used in the Revolution (where the traitor Benedict Arnold passed through in 1781) and the War of 1812. You can still walk among the Civil War earthworks today. Closing your eyes, you can almost hear the echoes of the ironclads on the James River.

Suffolk: The Peanut Capital and the Lassiter Legacy

Before reaching Norfolk, we took a detour through Suffolk. For me, this was a genealogical pilgrimage. I know from my research that my ancestor, Thomas Lassiter, settled in Jamestown in 1620 before eventually moving to what was then Nansemond County (now Suffolk). It is believed he, his wife, and children are buried somewhere in the city or surrounding area.

While we didn’t have a ton of time to explore, we drove through to plot out a future trip. One historic home we passed by that caught my eye was the Riddick’s Folly House. It is a museum and I hope to tour it next time I’m in the area.

• Marked by Fire: The Resilience of Suffolk
• Suffolk is a city defined by its endurance, a place literally forged in flames. During the Collier-Matthews Raid of 1779, the British burned the town to the ground, destroying over 1,000 barrels of pork and massive stores of naval supplies intended for Washington’s army. The city faced another catastrophic fire in the 1830s, which explains the architectural “layers” we saw while driving through. While we spotted a few Federal Style residences, the streets are dominated by grand Victorian homes built during the post-fire boom.
• One of the most iconic landmarks of this resilience is Riddick’s Folly. Built in 1837 by Mills Riddick, it was one of the first major homes constructed after the 1830s fire. With its massive Greek Revival columns and 20 rooms, it earned the name “Folly” because neighbors thought it was too grand—but today, it stands as a testament to Suffolk’s refusal to stay down.

Great Bridge: A Patriotic Pilgrimage

Before heading into Norfolk, my mom and I made a pilgrimage to the Battle of Great Bridge Museum & Memorial in Chesapeake. While sometimes overlooked, the Battle of Great Bridge (December 9, 1775) was one of the first major Patriot victories of the American Revolution. This clash effectively ended Lord Dunmore’s rule as the Royal Governor, forcing him to flee the mainland and ensuring American control over a vital artery in the Chesapeake Tidewater.

The museum is a treasure for any Revolutionary War buff. The staff was extremely knowledgeable and gave us an in-depth overview before we toured the exhibits, which feature a reconstruction of an 18th-century tavern where you can hear voices discussing the politics of the day. You then experience a timeline leading up to, during, and after the battle.

While the land has changed due to a canal installation in the 1800s, you can still imagine yourself in the Tidewater—smelling the musket fire and hearing the squishing of boots through the muddy wetlands near the Elizabeth River. A wonderful docent spent twenty minutes breaking down the “domino effect” of actions by Lord Dunmore that led to the rising patriotic zeal in Virginia.

The Road to Revolution

In 1765, Williamsburg was in a fury over the Stamp Act. The British argued that “virtual representation” allowed them to tax the colonies, but the colonists, as English citizens, demanded actual representation. Patrick Henry famously addressed the House of Burgesses, declaring: “If this be treason, make the most of it!” The breaking point came with the Coercive Acts (aka Intolerable Acts) in 1774. Lord Dunmore dissolved the House of Burgesses, but members kept meeting in taverns and eventually headed to St. John’s Church in Richmond for the Second Virginia Convention. It was here that Henry prophetically said, “The war is actually begun!” and famously proclaimed, “Give me liberty, or give me death!” Just two days after Lexington and Concord, Dunmore secretly seized the Williamsburg powder magazine. By June 8, 1775, Dunmore fled to Hampton Roads and made his base in Norfolk (read more here about his flight from the capital). The tides turned completely against him after his November proclamation promising to free any enslaved person who fought for the British. To modern ears, this sounds noble, but Dunmore simply used the Ethiopian Regiment to bolster his dwindling numbers and create fear; sadly, many in that regiment died of smallpox in the months following.

The Battle and the Ruse

The battle was fought near Fort Murray, a vital crossing point, known as the Great Bridge. Without bridge access, portaging through swamps or taking alternate routes (if available) could take hours or even days. Whoever controlled the bridge controlled access to Norfolk. A Patriot double agent tricked Dunmore into believing the Americans had only 300 men, when in reality, they had roughly 900 to 1,100 militia waiting.

A sentry named Billy Flora, a free Black man who had joined the Patriot cause, famously stood his ground, firing until the British were nearly upon him. Colonel William Woodford then instructed his men to hold their fire until the British were within 50 yards. The effect was devastating. Captain Charles Fordyce was killed—hit by 14 bullets—and the British suffered heavy casualties in just 30 minutes. The Patriots won without a single fatality.

We spent about ninety minutes at Great Bridge. Perhaps the most moving moment was standing in front of the Battlefield monument, honoring all units that served, including the regiments from North Carolina under my cousin Robert Howe who arrived a few days after Great Bridge occurred.

Howe was a commissioned officer in the Continental Army who arrived with militia from North Carolina on December 11th. He and Woodford then led their men into British held Norfolk and that leads up to the next stop on our adventure.

Norfolk: The Burning and St. Paul’s Witness

On December 14, 1775, the Patriot “shirtmen”—frontiersmen in hunting shirts—led by William Woodford and North Carolina’s Colonel Robert Howe entered Norfolk. At the time, it was the eighth-largest city in America and a known “Tory Nest.” This reputation was largely due to Norfolk being a major trading hub; local merchants feared that any retaliation would lead to a closed port like Boston’s. Heavily reliant on English trade, many residents were desperate not to “ruffle feathers.” Despite their attempted loyalty, Lord Dunmore eventually sacrificed Norfolk in a cold, strategic play.

From December 14th through December 31st, a tense stalemate held. Patriots sniped at Dunmore’s ships from the docks, and the ships fired back. On New Year’s Day, 1776, Dunmore escalated, ordering a heavy bombardment while sending British soldiers to clandestinely row ashore and torch the sniper nests. Because most buildings were wooden, the fires spread rapidly. The situation worsened when the Patriots—viewing the city as a liability that the British would surely try to reclaim—decided to complete the destruction. They burned the remaining city to the ground to deny the British a base.

The city became a “scorched earth” inferno, leaving thousands of families—both Patriot and Loyalist—in chaos. Amidst the ash, the only colonial building to survive was St. Paul’s Episcopal Church (built 1739). During the bombardment, a cannonball fired by Dunmore’s fleet struck the church’s massive Flemish Bond brickwork. The impact was so deep that the ball remained lodged for decades before eventually falling into the cemetery soil. It was buried and forgotten until the 1840s, when it was recovered and cemented back into its original strike hole—a living connection to the terror of that day.

Today, the churchyard serves as the final resting place for many Revolutionary and War of 1812 veterans. While it witnessed the hell of January 1, 1776, St. Paul’s remains an active parish—a symbol of hope and resilience for the Norfolk community.

A Historic Find in Norfolk: Dinner at Freemason Abbey

While visiting Norfolk, Virginia, after the Christmas holidays, my mom and I were thrilled to stumble across a restaurant that offered the perfect recipe for a great night out: historic ambiance, excellent drinks, delicious food, and a friendly staff.

Freemason Abbey Restaurant is located in the heart of Norfolk’s Freemason District. The neighborhood boasts a distinct “turn of the century” vibe, characterized by glorious row houses, cobblestone streets, several historic churches, and views of the Elizabeth River in the distance.

This restaurant has been a Norfolk mainstay since 1988, but the structure itself dates back much further. It originally served as a church and community space built in 1873.

While the name “Freemason” might suggest a secret headquarters for Nicholas Cage and the cast of National Treasure, the Masons never actually met here. The restaurant takes its name from the surrounding Freemason District—one of the first areas rebuilt after the American Revolution.

The building’s religious and social history is quite diverse:

• 1873: Built for a Presbyterian congregation.
• 1902: Sold to the Christian Scientists, who occupied the space until 1948.
• Post-1948: It became home to the Independent Order of Odd Fellows. While often confused with the Masons, the Odd Fellows are a separate fraternal organization.

Preservation Against the Odds

The neighborhood hasn’t always been the pristine historic district it is today. As transportation allowed citizens to move further from the city center, the area fell into disrepair by the 1950s. At one point, there was even a proposal to run a freeway through the neighborhood, which would have destroyed the historic architecture and fractured the community. Fortunately, the neighborhood was rehabilitated and protected in the 1980s, paving the way for the Freemason Abbey to open in 1988.

The Dining Experience

The ambiance has an “old-world cozy” vibe that leans into the abbey theme, blending Victorian elegance with a 1920s pub persona. If you visit, be sure to look for the original stained-glass windows in the bar area.

The menu is a celebration of the region, featuring:

• Fresh-caught seafood from the Chesapeake Bay.
• Mouth-watering steaks.
• Seasonal salads and homemade desserts.

My mom and I thoroughly enjoyed the fish and toasted to 2026 with a mocktail and a glass of wine. If you find yourself in Norfolk, this historic landmark is well worth the visit.

January 3: From Monet to Freedom’s Fortress

One of my true passions is art and art history; I even have a sister blog called Art Expeditions dedicated to the intersection of history, travel, and art. The Chrysler Museum of Art has been on my bucket list for a long time, and I finally had the opportunity to tour this extraordinary institution.

Founded in 1933 as the Norfolk Museum of Arts and Sciences, the museum has a nearly 100-year legacy. In 1971, the museum was transformed by a groundbreaking gift from Walter P. Chrysler Jr., whose wife, Jean Outland Chrysler, was a Norfolk native. Today, the museum is FREE, making world-class art accessible to everyone—a value I deeply appreciate.

A Symphony in Glass

While I came for the Old Masters and Impressionists, I was absolutely blown away by the Glass Collection. I knew it was the largest outside of Corning, NY, but seeing it in person was jaw-dropping. Having learned about glassmaking in Italy years ago, I thought I knew what to expect, but the curation here brings the story of glass to life—from ancient Chinese hand-painted glass and Venetian masterworks from Murano to Tiffany Glass and modern art glass created in the museum’s own Perry Glass Studio.

The Masters and the Impressionists

The collection features heavyweights like Tintoretto (who famously painted the largest oil painting in the world in Venice’s Ducal Palace) and Veronese. You can track the evolution of style from the academic “Old Guard” of Gérôme to the light-soaked Impressionism of Monet, Pissarro, and Matisse. I was a bit sad to find the Cézanne on a traveling exhibition—my own cat is named after him!—but the rest of the collection more than made up for it.

Rediscovering Susan Watkins

The true highlight was an exhibition on Susan Watkins. She is truly on the level of Mary Cassatt or Berthe Morisot. Born in 1875, she studied in Paris at the Académie Julian under Raphael Collin. She eventually married Goldsborough Serpell II, a prominent Norfolk businessman, and lived on Duke Street until her tragic death at just 38. In the 1940s, Serpell left 62 of her paintings to the museum. Had she lived longer, her name would undoubtedly be a household word in American art.

Freedom’s Fortress and the Path to Healing

Before heading back to Raleigh, my mom and I took a detour to Hampton’s Fort Monroe. Located at Old Point Comfort, this site holds a profound place in the American story. It was here in 1619 that the first recorded Africans were brought to the English colonies. In a powerful turn of historical irony, this same ground became “Freedom’s Fortress” during the Civil War.

America 250 fun fact: It was also a staging site in July 1781 when British troops entered the Chesapeake en route for Yorktown. For a time they even considered Old Point Comfort as their defensive stronghold, but it was deemed to have many potential logistical errors.

In 1861, General Benjamin Butler made the landmark decision to protect escaped enslaved people as “contraband of war,” effectively offering a sanctuary for liberty.

Walking through the massive stone rooms where soldiers like Poe lived—and where Jefferson Davis was later held prisoner—makes the weight of the past feel incredibly tangible.

Standing in the shadow of these walls, I found myself reflecting on the deep complexity of my own Southern roots. While I honor my ancestors, I know my heart would have been with the Union. I believe our Constitution and our unified country are of paramount importance. While we must always hold our government accountable, the path of secession—especially when tied to the institution of slavery—was a tragic mistake.

However, looking at the devastation the Civil War left behind, I am moved by the effort it took to stitch a broken nation back together. After the fighting ceased, men like Robert E. Lee and Joseph E. Johnston (who eventually served as a pallbearer for his former adversary, William T. Sherman) spoke of the necessity of moving forward as one people. Lee, who had served at Fort Monroe for years as a young lieutenant in the U.S. Army, ultimately chose a path of quiet reconciliation, encouraging Southerners to be “as loyal citizens as they were good soldiers.”

The human toll of that era is heartbreaking, and I struggle to come to grips with the sheer scale of the loss. Yet, standing beneath the Algernourne Oak, a “witness tree” nearly 500 years old, you realize that the land remains even as generations pass. This ancient oak saw the first arrivals in 1619, the construction of the fort by Lee’s own hand, and the daily drills of a young Sergeant Major Poe. Nearby, the site’s pet cemetery and the looming presence of The Chamberlin—the grand, historic hotel on the waterfront—remind you that life, comfort, and hospitality continued even amidst the echoes of war.

The Silent Sentinel: Old Point Comfort Lighthouse

I was disappointed to find the road to the Old Point Comfort Lighthouse closed, but even from a distance, its silhouette is a reminder of the maritime history that defines this point.

Completed in 1802 (with the blessing of Thomas Jefferson), this white-painted sandstone tower is actually older than Fort Monroe itself! During the War of 1812, the British captured it and used it as an observation post before moving on to burn Washington D.C.

During the Civil War, while the rest of Virginia’s lighthouses were often darkened or destroyed by Confederate forces, this light stayed shining every single night. Because the Union held the fort, the lighthouse remained a literal beacon for the North, guiding ships safely through the “minefields” of the bay.

Today, it is still an active aid to navigation operated by the Coast Guard. The keeper’s house next door (built in 1891) is a beautiful Queen Anne-style home that actually serves as housing for the fort’s Command Sergeant Major. It’s a rare place where a 200-year-old light still does its job, watching over the same waters where the White Lion and the French fleet once sailed.

We finished our visit by passing through the historic gateway town of Phoebus. Its narrow streets were the first place many formerly enslaved people began their lives as free citizens. It felt like the perfect bridge between the weight of the fort and the hope of the modern world. Standing in this place of both tragedy and triumph was a powerful way to end our Virginia adventure.

As the sun gave way to darkness, we headed back to Raleigh, reflecting on the amazing Revolutionary Road Trip we’d had across over 400 years of Virginia Tidewater History!

Stay tuned for more features on the spots mentioned in this article, as well as pocket guides for easy travel info to help plan your own #va250 #america250 history adventure in the Tidewater.

Hi, I’m Adele Lassiter, the travel enthusiast behind American Nomad Traveler. This is where I share my love for history, cool museums, art, and travel tips. When I’m not writing, I’m a singer-songwriter with a passion for Americana music. You can find my new album here: adelelassiter.bandcamp.com

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