Exploring Historic Lancaster PA

Over the past few weeks on American Nomad, we’ve been exploring Philadelphia – from Revolutionary War history to amazing museums and more. 

Today’s adventure takes us beyond Philadelphia to discover the charm of historic Lancaster, Pennsylvania. Just 71 miles west of the City of Brotherly Love, Lancaster offers a delightful escape perfect for a day trip.

Lancaster serves as the capital of Lancaster County, a region widely recognized as ‘The Pennsylvania Amish Country.’ Although the Amish and Mennonite communities deeply influence the character of Lancaster County, the captivating city of Lancaster presents a fascinating tapestry of history from Colonial and Revolutionary War roots, American Civil War and arts and culture.

Our journey through Lancaster will begin with a historical overview, then we’ll explore some key attractions, and finally, I’ll share my own travel itinerary.

History:

Long before the arrival of European settlers, the Susquehanna River Valley of Pennsylvania, including the area that would become Lancaster, was the ancestral homeland of numerous Native American tribes. Among them were the Shenks Ferry, Conoy, Lenape, Mohawk, Nanticoke, Seneca, Shawnee, and Susquehannock peoples, who inhabited this land for centuries.

The Delaware River region, near Philadelphia, was initially settled by the Swedish and Dutch in the early to mid-1600s. Later, in 1681, William Penn received a land grant for Pennsylvania from King Charles II of England.

Guided by his Quaker faith, William Penn envisioned Pennsylvania as a ‘holy experiment’ – a haven of religious freedom and mutual respect for all. 

Led by the promise of religious freedom under Penn’s Holy Experiment, Germans settled in the area of Lanaster in 1709. This makes the city of Lancaster one of the oldest inland cities in the United States. 

These Germans are referred to as the Pennsylvania Dutch (from the German word ‘Deutsch’), they were largely seeking the very religious tolerance championed by Pennsylvania’s Quaker founder, William Penn. To this day Lancaster Country continues to have a large population of citizens with German ancestry, including the Amish and Mennonities. 

Indeed, much of the picturesque charm of Lancaster County stems from the Pennsylvania Dutch, whose expansive farms and close-knit, traditional Amish, Mennonite, and Brethren communities continue to define the region’s landscape and character. To learn more about The Pennsylvania Dutch click here.

Becoming Lancaster: 

The original name of Lancaster was Hickory Town.  In 1729, Honorable James Hamilton laid out the town grid in building lots.  In 1730, Hickory Town was renamed Lancaster by prominent resident John Wright, after his birthplace of Lancaster England.  It was formally incorporated as a town in 1742.

In 1744, Lancaster was the site of a major peace treaty – The Great Indian Treaty of 1744 when representatives from Pennsylvania, Maryland and Virginia met with members of the chieftains of Six Nations to settle land disputes. The conference worked to secure Native American land for English settlement and to ensure that the Native Americans would not join with France in a border war.  (The French also had territorial claims in North America)

The star of the Treaty of 1744, was Onondaga chief Cannasstego, who recommended that the colonies adopt a form of government similar to the Iroquois by forming a confederacy.  He recognized that while each colony was tied to Great Britain they lacked a strong coordinated policy to address the threats of New France.  His words were published and read by colonial leaders like Benjamin Franklin and helped influence The Constitution in 1787.  Learn more about this fascinating history here.

Fun fact: Lancaster is home to the oldest farmers market in the U.S.  Lancaster Central Market opened in 1730.  It was originally in an open field, which influenced King George II to issue his royal decree to make Lancaster a market town.  The market has been in continuous operation since 1730, with its current location adjacent to Penn Square built in 1889. Learn more here.

Revolutionary Roots: US Capital for One Day Only!

Lancaster was active in the fight for Independence during The American Revolution.  When Philadelphia was overtaken by The British in 1777, the Second Continental Congress fled to Lancaster.  On Sept. 27th they held a session of Congress in the original courthouse and temporarily declared Lancaster the Capital of The United States of America. 

However, with the British threat looming, on Sept. 28th, it was declared to move twenty-eight miles farther west to the city of York, PA.  York remained the capital until 1778 (nine months) when they were able to return to Philadelphia.

During The Revolutionary War, Lancaster was an important munitions center, being a major producer of the Pennsylvania Long Rifle.  This rifle was known for its precision and effectiveness in battle. The Pennsylvania Riflemen, mostly from Lancaster were feared for their deadly accuracy, giving the Continental army a psychological advantage. Reference.

As a market town a safe distance from British forces, Lancaster was also a major supplier of The Continental Army.  Large quantities of supplies like cannons, ammunition , rifles, camp kettles, grain, shoes and uniforms were sent to The Continentals.  Downtown Lancaster also had military barracks, stables, powder-house and warehouse.  Lancaster also kept British prisoners of war, including Hessian prisoners, who helped guard the munitions.  Reference.

Following The Revolutionary War, Lancaster continued to play an important role in the founding of The United States.  It served as The State Capital of Pennsylvania from 1799 to 1812 (then moved to Harrisburg).  

The Conestoga Wagon:

Hauling heavy freight and goods over rough roads was a cumbersome challenge before the advent of trucks, trains, and planes. Ordinary wagons lacked the strength for rocky mountain paths. A major innovation arose in Lancaster County with the invention of the Conestoga Wagon. Pennsylvania German and Swiss wagon builders created this sturdy vehicle to transport goods to markets such as Philadelphia. The name comes from the Conestoga River, which flows through Lancaster County.

The Conestoga Wagon was first mentioned in 1717, but its popular, sturdy form developed in the 1750s.

In fact, the demand for sturdy wagons for trade and transportation was so significant that my own ancestor, Cyrus Townsend, originally from New York, moved to Pittsburgh in the 1800s to build similar wagons. His business thrived to such an extent that he was able to retire early, a testament to the vital role these vehicles played in the economy of the time.

The Conestoga wagon became a vital tool for transportation and commerce, moving heavy freight from urban centers and rural areas. . While not primarily used for westward migration (as that was more suited to smaller, lighter covered wagons), the Conestoga wagon played a significant role in the growth of the American economy and the westward expansion by transporting goods and materials. Learn more about the history of The Conestoga Wagon here.

Abolition and Freedom:

In the tumultuous years leading up to the Civil War, Lancaster pulsed with the energy of the Abolitionist movement, fiercely championed by its influential citizen Congressman Thaddeus Stevens. A powerful and uncompromising voice against slavery, Stevens used his political platform to advocate tirelessly for emancipation and even radical notions of racial equality for the time. While his direct role in the drafting of the Emancipation Proclamation is nuanced, his persistent pressure and unwavering stance undoubtedly influenced the national conversation. Lancaster itself was a known hotbed of anti-slavery sentiment, potentially serving as a crucial stop on the Underground Railroad, and Stevens’ leadership galvanized local activism. Today, a visit to the Thaddeus Stevens and Lydia Hamilton Smith Historic Site offers a profound opportunity to delve into Stevens’ impactful work as an abolitionist. Exhibits showcase his fiery speeches, correspondence, and personal belongings, shedding light on his unwavering commitment to ending slavery and his relationship with Lydia Hamilton Smith, a free Black woman who was an integral part of his household and possibly the Underground Railroad.

Lancaster County was a crucial link in the Underground Railroad, Lancaster County offered a vital pathway to freedom for those escaping enslavement. Situated along the Mason-Dixon Line, and bolstered by the abolitionist beliefs of many residents driven by their religious convictions, Lancaster’s transportation connections to the free North made it a key corridor. The journey to liberty often involved traversing Lancaster County, with routes leading some towards Columbia, others across the Susquehanna River at Peach Bottom in the south, or along the Octoraro Creek in the southeast. Though their ultimate destinations often included Lancaster County’s Christiana, Philadelphia, New England, or Canada, many freedom seekers also chose to settle in Lancaster, establishing families whose presence enriches the county even now. Source

Lancaster History Center offers walking tours of underground railroad sites in Lancaster. Learn more here.

Lancaster was home to President James Buchanan, whose policies (inaction and outright tension) have been criticized for playing a hand in starting the Civil War.  You can tour his historic home Wheatland, which is just outside the Lancaster city limits. Click here to plan your visit to Wheatland here.

Civil War:

Lancaster was in the snares of the battle for the United States during The Civil War. Pro-Union, Lancaster quickly answered Lincoln’s call for 750,000 military volunteers at the beginning of the war in 1861. In fact one of the finest Union commanders, General John Reynolds hailed from Lancaster. His distinguished military career included the Battle of Chancellorsville, the second Battle of Bull Run…sadly Reynolds was killed in nearby Gettysburg. Many Lancaster residents found in Gettysburg.

Learn more about Lancaster’s Civil War history here.

Our Adventure: 

My mom and I had the privilege of spending time in Lancaster on our return trip to Raleigh from Philadelphia. As we drove into the heart of the city center, we were charmed by the mix of historic buildings showcasing styles from the Colonial Era, Beaux Arts, and Greek Revival. The town was bustling with crowds of locals and tourists, but luckily we found a parking garage within walking distance of Penn Square.

With our stomachs rumbling, finding food quickly became our top priority. Thankfully, downtown Lancaster proved to be a treasure trove of amazing restaurants from pub fare to fine dining, Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine and more. Following a local’s recommendation, we found ourselves at Annie Bailey’s Public House, a bustling Irish pub. The historic building’s interior, featuring a classic dark wooden bar and inviting cozy booths, instantly whisked us away to the Emerald Isle without ever leaving Pennsylvania.

Annie Bailey’s provided amazing service and the hearty meal satisfied our hunger.  I feasted on The Winter Cobb salad, a delicious assortment of fresh lettuce, butternut squash, sliced apples, onions, bacon, boiled egg and bleu cheese topped with their balsamic dressing.  My mom opted for a burger and their pub fries.  We toasted with ginger beer (since we were driving home after), but they have a huge assortment of ciders, beers, Irish whiskey and cocktails that would make Oscar Wilde jealous.

Following a satisfying lunch, we made our way to the Lancaster Visitor Center, situated in the vibrant Penn Square, Lancaster’s historic epicenter. This center truly serves as ground zero for mapping out your Lancaster County explorations. Occupying the historic Old City Hall, a building with roots stretching back to 1790, the visitor center provides invaluable travel advice from their on-site consultants. We noted their impressive offering of historic walking tours, which promise a deep connection with the town’s past and present. Unfortunately, our limited time before heading back to NC prevented us from participating, but we eagerly anticipate a return visit to delve into these tours, museums, and the renowned Central Market (the oldest continuously operating food market in America).

With our limited time, my mom and I prioritized soaking in the atmosphere by meandering through the historic streets, pausing to read about Lancaster’s rich past through various plaques and exhibits. What truly stood out was the incredible friendliness of the locals. They generously shared insightful tips and recommendations, already fueling our excitement for a future, more in-depth exploration of Lancaster.

Lancaster beautifully weaves its rich history into a vibrant present. On the day of our visit, the city buzzed with community events, including an energetic gymnastic tournament. What struck me most was how historic buildings had been ingeniously repurposed into bustling food halls, inviting restaurants, and unique shops – seamlessly integrating the past to create lively gathering spaces for today’s visitors.

Before hitting the road for quick stops in York and Gettysburg on our way back to NC, my mom and I made a stop at The Southern Market. This vibrant food hall, one of Lancaster’s many, offered a tempting array of local food vendors from tacos to Asian cuisine and beyond. Craving a caffeine boost for our road trip, we were thrilled to find Barberet, an exceptional artisan coffee shop and patisserie renowned for its macarons. Initially intending to try just one each, their perfect combination of crunch and moistness was so irresistible that we left with a dozen to savor at home. I’m already planning a website order!

One of the best parts about traveling is exploring local haunts like coffee shops and hole in the wall restaurants.  Often you discover the best eats at a great price. 

Planning your Trip to Lancaster:

While even a short day trip to Lancaster offers a rewarding experience, the region truly shines when you have more time. With a wealth of attractions spanning from the serene Amish Country to Lancaster’s engaging museums and beyond, I highly recommend dedicating a few days to fully explore all that Lancaster County has to offer. Stay tuned for a follow-up post detailing must-see Lancaster sites, but here are a few initial spots to get your planning underway:

The Visitor Center located at Penn Square is a fantastic first stop, offering a wealth of information to help you craft your perfect Lancaster adventure. You can discover more here.

Not to miss sites for History Buffs:

Eager to explore Lancaster’s rich history further? Check out these incredible sites:

• Lancaster History: A museum complex situated just outside of town, featuring numerous engaging exhibits that bring the history of Lancaster County to life. Lancaster History also operates tours of James Buchanan’s Wheatland estate and…
• The Stevens and Smith Center (opening in 2026) Housed in the former law office and home of Congressman Thaddeus Stevens and his confidante Lydia Hamilton Smith, the Center will combine historic buildings with a state-of-the-art museum to examine the lives and legacies of Stevens and Smith, and their social networks of abolitionists. The Center’s multi-faceted exhibits—developed in partnership with world-renowned museum designers and noted historians—will address issues of slavery, freedom, and the continuing fight for equality in the United States. *website summary*
• Historic Rock Ford: Located in the southeastern corner of Lancaster City, Historic Rockford transports you back in time to the 1794 estate of medical doctor and patriot Edward Hand.  Tour the historic home, and explore over 33 acres of gardens, woods and history on the grounds.  The museum complex also includes John J Snyder Jr.’s Gallery of Decorative Arts.
• 1719 Museum: Learn more about the lives of early Mennonite immigrants, Indigenous people and their interconnected lives in Lancaster county. The museum site includes The Herr House (1719), which is Lancaster County’s oldest surviving homestead.
• Landis Valley History Museum: Landis Valley Village & Farm Museum, part of the PA State Museum system, is a living history museum interpreting Pennsylvania German life from 1740-1940

Arts and Museums:

• Fulton Theatre: one of the oldest continuously operating theatres in the United States. The Fulton employees top talent direct from Broadway.
• Lancaster Science Factory: hands-on science center for kids in Pre-K to 8th grade and their families.
• Demuth Foundation (Art Museum)
• Lancaster Museum of Art
• Phillips Museum of Art

Foodie Heaven:

• Central Market: Established in 1730 – Central Market is America’s oldest continually operating food market.
• Southern Market – great food hall with eclectic mix of food

Amish/Mennonite/Pennsylvania Dutch Experiences

We drove to Ephrata, a quaint Amish community about twenty-minutes from Lancaster. The Ephrata Cloister is a must stop: “Experience the captivating history of Historic Ephrata Cloister, a historic religious community established in 1732. Discover the unique lifestyle of its community, which fostered remarkable architecture, original music, significant publications, and extraordinary art. Originally a refuge from worldly distractions, Ephrata nurtured devoted members in a disciplined life aimed at spiritual preparation. Visit today to uncover the intriguing story of our nation’s past.” Their website says reservations are required in advance, given limited staff.

Lititz is another great village to visit in Lancaster County, with it’s cozy cafes and Pennsylvania Dutch culture.

The Amish Experience comes recommended from Lancaster Tourism website. Tours immerse you in the authentic culture of the Amish. Learn more here.

Next time on American Nomad, we’ll be finishing up our Pennsylvania adventures before we head south to North Carolina for more history at Brunswick Town NC.

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American Nomad is written by travel lover, history buff, artist and singer-songwriter Adele Lassiter.

Adele’s new EP ‘American Nomad’ is now available on all streaming networks and for sale on Bandcamp: adelelassiter.bandcamp